[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by O Stater

Fewwww, finally made it through all 42 pages of this post...A lot of good info... However, I decided to go with morel hybrid 402 up front and morel maximo ultra's in back. Further, I'm heavily leaning to the JL VX amp to drive it all.

My question, to anyone who has installed the Morel's or similar speaker, is the 50mm depth an issue? Apparently Morel now makes the 402 in a shallow version and I'm uncertain if I want to go with the standard or shallow.

Lastly, has anyone considered bypassing the standard subs under the seats and installing a custom sub box on the passenger side of the trunk behind the wheel well?

You should check out musicar northwest if you’re considering those two options, as they have turnkey solutions for both. I’m in the middle of upgrading my front stage to 402s that I got from them (they supply custom mounting brackets). They also have OEM quality and fit/finish trunk corner sub enclosure. It’s a brilliant setup.

Pic from my M2:

[O Stater]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

You should check out musicar northwest if you’re considering those two options, as they have turnkey solutions for both. I’m in the middle of upgrading my front stage to 402s that I got from them (they supply custom mounting brackets). They also have OEM quality and fit/finish trunk corner sub enclosure. It’s a brilliant setup.

Pic from my M2:

Dude, that is exactly what I was looking for!!
Ill look them up since I'm in the NW and all.

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by O Stater

Dude, that is exactly what I was looking for!!
Ill look them up since I'm in the NW and all.

Awesome! If you talk with Sean Pham, tell him Ash sent you. He's a good guy.

[O Stater]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

You should check out musicar northwest if you’re considering those two options, as they have turnkey solutions for both. I’m in the middle of upgrading my front stage to 402s that I got from them (they supply custom mounting brackets). They also have OEM quality and fit/finish trunk corner sub enclosure. It’s a brilliant setup.

Pic from my M2:

Also, how do you think this sounds compared to the underseat woofers?

I have a JL 13" pancake sub in my truck that goes Loooooowwww and the 8's just cant get there. Dont get me wrong, i'm not driving around with my windows down letting the neighbors hear my system but I want to have enough that its clean at higher volume levels.

[ashmostro]

What I like about the trunk sub setup in a BMW with underseat woofers is that you can repurpose the 8" drivers to be Midbass Modules (MBMs) which will give you both deep subbass and hard-hitting bass + midbass that you feel in your chest. Run the true sub up to around 65Hz-ish, and then let the MBM take over until 150Hz, letting your front stage take over from there. You'll have impact, SPL, SQ, and an image that ALL comes from the front regardless of frequency.

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by ronroberto

Thanks, I'll likely go the cheaper route unless there is a need, I'll check them out

What are your crossover points and slopes for each channel?

[vrooooom]

holy cow guys. I have a 12" SVS sub but it's for my large bedroom. I can't imagine having it pumping inside my M2. Must be blowing up the windows.

[O Stater]

Originally Posted by vrooooom

holy cow guys. I have a 12" SVS sub but it's for my large bedroom. I can't imagine having it pumping inside my M2. Must be blowing up the windows.

You don't have to crank it up to blow out the windows, the purpose is to let each driver perform in its ideal range. The more you can separate the frequencies, the clearer the music becomes. Ironically, as each speaker is doing what it was born to do, the more efficient it becomes and you can get more volume with better clarity.
I personally like sealed sub-woofers better because they produce tighter bass but they take more power to produce the sound than a vented sub.

[O Stater]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

What I like about the trunk sub setup in a BMW with underseat woofers is that you can repurpose the 8" drivers to be Midbass Modules (MBMs) which will give you both deep subbass and hard-hitting bass + midbass that you feel in your chest. Run the true sub up to around 65Hz-ish, and then let the MBM take over until 150Hz, letting your front stage take over from there. You'll have impact, SPL, SQ, and an image that ALL comes from the front regardless of frequency.

I love this plan and will implement it as soon as my wallet allows!!!

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by O Stater

I love this plan and will implement it as soon as my wallet allows!!!

All you need to pull it off is the sub+amp and a Match UP7BMW DSP/amp from Audiotec Fischer. Get the front stage and underseat woofer upgrades later as it will be a smaller upgrade versus the above. The UP7BMW enables you to adjust the crossover points the way I described.

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by O Stater

You don't have to crank it up to blow out the windows, the purpose is to let each driver perform in its ideal range. The more you can separate the frequencies, the clearer the music becomes. Ironically, as each speaker is doing what it was born to do, the more efficient it becomes and you can get more volume with better clarity.
I personally like sealed sub-woofers better because they produce tighter bass but they take more power to produce the sound than a vented sub.

This!

[O Stater]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

All you need to pull it off is the sub+amp and a Match UP7BMW DSP/amp from Audiotec Fischer. Get the front stage and underseat woofer upgrades later as it will be a smaller upgrade versus the above. The UP7BMW enables you to adjust the crossover points the way I described.

How does the Match UP amp compare to the JL VXi amp?
I did call them this week but no call back yet. Regardless of amp, I love the plan of making the car a huge 3 way speaker…well 4 way really!

[ashmostro]

Frankly any dsp amp will do the job since on these cars we have to resort to line level conversion. The Match is convenient because of its size and inclusion of the wiring adapter which is necessary if you don’t want to cut or repin any wires.

[ashmostro]

Frankly any dsp amp will do the job since on these cars we have to resort to line level conversion. The Match is convenient because of its size and inclusion of the wiring adapter which is necessary if you don’t want to cut or repin any wires.

Personally i would also consider Audiocontrol as their dsp amps are packed with features and they are very reputable.

[ronroberto]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

What are your crossover points and slopes for each channel?

I'm sure they aren't ideal. Do you have a recommendation? I could try to guess what I have but I'd have to check next time I tune it, I was going to give it a week or two to break in and tune it again. I already noticed the speakers have 'opened up' after a few hours of use.

I used the Dayton audio UMM-6 to tune it and the results are fantastic!

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by ronroberto

I'm sure they aren't ideal. Do you have a recommendation? I could try to guess what I have but I'd have to check next time I tune it, I was going to give it a week or two to break in and tune it again. I already noticed the speakers have 'opened up' after a few hours of use.

I used the Dayton audio UMM-6 to tune it and the results are fantastic!

Nice job!

Whats your full setup, so i can provide good advice on the crossover starting points?

[ronroberto]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Nice job!

Whats your full setup, so i can provide good advice on the crossover starting points?

I went with the full Dr Strangelove setup:

Match Up 7BMW
Center: delete
Front: Eton B100W - dynamat'd
Rear: JL C2-400x
SWS 8" 2ohm underseat
ASD-delete (harness)

[ashmostro]

These are just suggestions and subjective ones at that, so please keep that in mind!

SWS subs bandpass from 40 to 120 Hz (@ -12dB and -24dB respectively)

Anything below 40 Hz wont have much fidelity or SPL on the under seats so imo its not worth the intermodulation distortion. Thats where a true sub in the trunk comes in handy.

Front stage and rear fill highpass 120Hz @ -12dB

[ronroberto]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

These are just suggestions and subjective ones at that, so please keep that in mind!

SWS subs bandpass from 40 to 120 Hz (@ -12dB and -24dB respectively)

Anything below 40 Hz wont have much fidelity or SPL on the under seats so imo its not worth the intermodulation distortion. Thats where a true sub in the trunk comes in handy.

Front stage and rear fill highpass 120Hz @ -12dB

Do you recommend trying an upper limit on the Front/Rears? I think I am currently setup pretty close to your suggestions. Off the top of my head I had:

Front/Rear: 115-2k
Sub: 38-115

I'll try bumping it up a bit next time I have it hooked up, I don't have a compatible laptop so I run extended USB cables out from my office PC to the mic and amp, then I use my tablet to remote to my PC. I got a URC.3 remote to wire in, so I'll have it plugged in at some point this week so I'll try it then.
Thanks for the suggestion!

[ashmostro]

Thats good. I will assume you meant to type 20k not 2k. But not, you dont want or need a low pass on the front stage. Rear fill is a personal preference depending on the image profile you are seeking. But id start with both front and rear with the same points and then adjust time delay and gain to get the image where you want.

[ronroberto]

Yes, that's right. I'll make the minor adjustment and go on from there, I'm still getting used to the new 'tuned' sound, I'll try removing the lowpass on the F/R to start and go from there.

[ashmostro]

Can you describe what youre hearing (or not) that you dont prefer?