[Getzinem]

Originally Posted by selmeralto

Hi Getzinem,

A video is a great idea and I'm sure lots of people would appreciate it. Sure, feel free to mention the thread. No need to mention me personally, especially since there were so many people who have also contributed to the thread. I look forward to seeing the video. Thanks.

Thanks. That's very kind and humble of you. You're a good person. I'll have it out soon. Thanks again!

[Getzinem]

Originally Posted by selmeralto

Hi Getzinem,

A video is a great idea and I'm sure lots of people would appreciate it. Sure, feel free to mention the thread. No need to mention me personally, especially since there were so many people who have also contributed to the thread. I look forward to seeing the video. Thanks.

State 1 is all done. Thanks again

Stage 2: ASD Delete

[BrettKA7]

I was unimpressed with Harmon Kardon with all the settings neutral within the sliders.

However, moving the slider to the rear a bit helped improve the sound significantly! I have plans to disable the center speaker eventually but for now, moving the slider to the rear a bit turned the HK system from tinny and awful to perfectly livable.

[H2O_Doc]

Originally Posted by BrettKA7

I was unimpressed with Harmon Kardon with all the settings neutral within the sliders.

However, moving the slider to the rear a bit helped improve the sound significantly! I have plans to disable the center speaker eventually but for now, moving the slider to the rear a bit turned the HK system from tinny and awful to perfectly livable.

I added the JL speakers to the back and faded the single back to those speakers and it's certainly better than stock.

[Murf]

Can anyone here help me - would like to try something a bit higher sensitivity than the JLs... Will these fit the deck on a coupe? JBL GTO-429

https://www.amazon.com/JBL-GTO429-Pr...otNum=2&sr=1-2

[MarcoZandrini]

Originally Posted by H2O_Doc

I added the JL speakers to the back and faded the single back to those speakers and it's certainly better than stock.

Hmmm, my sound stage is a little to far back for me.

[BEM-S4]

FINALLY got lossless music out of my iPhone, through a standalone DAC, and into the car while still charging my phone. Big thanks to MarcoZandrini for the help on this!

This only works for cars with Aux-In armrest input, but you need:

Apple Lightning to USB 3 Camera Adapter
Audioquest Dragonfly (I used Red)
Short audio cable (I used one from FiiO)

From there install is very self explanatory, you plug your phone into the Camera Adapter, then hook up the Dragonfly to the USB and attach to Aux In. You then use a lightning cable to plug into USB for power. Proclip users, you need to replace your standard lightning to USB cable that came with your dock with this one on Amazon:

EMATETEK Extender Cable Connector Pass Audio Video Music Photo Data and Power Charge. 1PCS Male to Female Extension Cord Made of All Black PVC &Aluminum. (6.6 Feet / 2M)

You will need to file the hole in your dock a tiny bit, 30 seconds of work.

The photo below if from my wagon, I did both cars. The only difference in this case is that I had the OEM phone cradle, which I removed and added an additional USB outlet down inside the armrest. I plugged into that instead, but it works the same way.

[MarcoZandrini]

Originally Posted by BEM-S4

FINALLY got lossless music out of my iPhone, through a standalone DAC, and into the car while still charging my phone. Big thanks to MarcoZandrini for the help on this!

This only works for cars with Aux-In armrest input, but you need:

Apple Lightning to USB 3 Camera Adapter
Audioquest Dragonfly (I used Red)
Short audio cable (I used one from FiiO)

From there install is very self explanatory, you plug your phone into the Camera Adapter, then hook up the Dragonfly to the USB and attach to Aux In. You then use a lightning cable to plug into USB for power. Proclip users, you need to replace your standard lightning to USB cable that came with your dock with this one on Amazon:

EMATETEK Extender Cable Connector Pass Audio Video Music Photo Data and Power Charge. 1PCS Male to Female Extension Cord Made of All Black PVC &Aluminum. (6.6 Feet / 2M)

You will need to file the hole in your dock a tiny bit, 30 seconds of work.

The photo below if from my wagon, I did both cars. The only difference in this case is that I had the OEM phone cradle, which I removed and added an additional USB outlet down inside the armrest. I plugged into that instead, but it works the same way.

Glad to help and inspire.

[Encanto]

I may be missing the whole story of this, but NBT units can play lossless files via USB. Why all the adapters to play lossless via AUX when AUX has the poorest audio quality of all sources?

Originally Posted by BEM-S4

FINALLY got lossless music out of my iPhone, through a standalone DAC, and into the car while still charging my phone. Big thanks to MarcoZandrini for the help on this!

This only works for cars with Aux-In armrest input, but you need:

Apple Lightning to USB 3 Camera Adapter
Audioquest Dragonfly (I used Red)
Short audio cable (I used one from FiiO)

From there install is very self explanatory, you plug your phone into the Camera Adapter, then hook up the Dragonfly to the USB and attach to Aux In. You then use a lightning cable to plug into USB for power. Proclip users, you need to replace your standard lightning to USB cable that came with your dock with this one on Amazon:

EMATETEK Extender Cable Connector Pass Audio Video Music Photo Data and Power Charge. 1PCS Male to Female Extension Cord Made of All Black PVC &Aluminum. (6.6 Feet / 2M)

You will need to file the hole in your dock a tiny bit, 30 seconds of work.

The photo below if from my wagon, I did both cars. The only difference in this case is that I had the OEM phone cradle, which I removed and added an additional USB outlet down inside the armrest. I plugged into that instead, but it works the same way.

[BEM-S4]

The DAC in the head unit is crap - the only option is to feed the highest quality analog signal possible into Aux-In. Using USB in means the car is converting to analog.

The other choice would be to go direct into aftermarket amp via USB but again that will not charge your phone so you still need an adapter. You don't want the car or your phone handling the digital to analog conversion neither has a quality processor.

[Encanto]

AUX In is the worse source in audio quality in the NBT - it does two conversions: AD and then DA. USB does one conversion: DA. And can play lossless direct. And charge your phone.

But if you are happy then that is what matters - to you. For everybody else, just use lossless with the USB already there.

Originally Posted by BEM-S4

The DAC in the head unit is crap - the only option is to feed the highest quality analog signal possible into Aux-In. Using USB in means the car is converting to analog.

The other choice would be to go direct into aftermarket amp via USB but again that will not charge your phone so you still need an adapter. You don't want the car or your phone handling the digital to analog conversion neither has a quality processor.

[selmeralto]

Apparently, there's a component (the CAN BUS) in the factory amp that's needed to upgrade your car's software. The component isn't available on the Bavsound amp so if you've installed a Bavsound the dealer won't see the CAN BUS and the car won't update. If you want the update you have to disconnect the Bavsound amp and reconnect the factory amp.

The discussion is here:

https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1729449.

Forewarned.

[Jmon34]

I recently got a 2020 M240i with an HK system and like many others I'm ready to do something to fix the OEM sound. This thread has been an amazing source of information, I just finished reading through the entire thing.

I'm going to start with the center speaker disconnect and code off the ASD as soon as I post this.

I plan on going with the Etons B100W's in the front and either the B100N's or B100XN's in back.

Things I could use some advice on:

1. Is it worth an extra ~$100 for the N vs XN in the rear?

2. I've seen lots of conflicting information about the B100XHP crossovers/filters in the thread. Are they needed if I'm planning on keeping the OEM amp?

Originally Posted by Viffermike

I would use them if you don't use a crossover anywhere else -- say, within an aftermarket amp, DSP unit, etc. They are basically the same thing as the physical crossover units supplied with most other component speaker sets -- which are also optional if you're using crossovers anywhere else.

Originally Posted by Viffermike

Just to be safe, I would install the Eton filters if you're installing only the Etons (i.e., running off the OEM amp).

Be mindful, however, that if you upgrade the amp, add a DSP, etc. after that, you should not use any similar function on it. It's generally not a good idea sonically to 'double up' frequency filtering, especially when it's likely two types of it: electrical (the Eton part) and electronic (the amp/DSP).

Hope this helps!

Originally Posted by Viffermike

Nick,

Tried to PM you, but your box is full ...

Sorry for the tardy reply; been busy the past week with work and a few forums.

Question: Do you run an aftermarket amplifier? If you do and it has adjustable high-pass filtering and/or crossovers, you don't need to install the Eton units. As I explained in another post (IIRC) in the Strangelove thread, one should almost never use two sets of crossovers with a speaker array. The crossovers in the amp will almost certainly be better than the Eton ones.

Now: The B100 XHPs are high-pass filters; they are NOT crossovers. All they do is prevent bass frequencies (150Hz and below) from reaching the woofer and tweeter. The OEM amp is already doing this. So, IMHO, there is no need to install them in any situation except if you're running an aftermarket amp without internal high-pass filtering.

Hope this helps ...

... Oh, as for Dynamat: It can only help if installed reasonably well. If you do it, cover the speaker openings and the flat area around those (several inches' worth). But since you've already got the speakers in, I wouldn't go back in to do it unless you have to for another reason.

- Mike

3. Is there any unobtrusive way of getting quality or lossless audio without an AUX port? My preferred music source is Tidal HiFi. I'm running an Android phone with a built in HiFi DAC on the headphone jack and Bluetooth codecs: SBC, AAC, aptX, aptX HD, and LDAC. So far the only way I've been able to get music from my phone to the car is Bluetooth connecting on AAC.

Thanks for all the info and any help!

Edit: people might be interested in this too. Built in eq settings in bimmercode that perform much better. I'm going to give it a try later.
https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1723637

[nikijack]

Hi: Does anyone know of an alternate harness to the TechnicPnP, please?
Jack

[jv92red]

Yes: Check out ebay seller 73mustangconv

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E90-F10...V4UKR&LH_All=1

His harness has higher quality RCA connectors compared to the Technic harness. The harness doesn't come standard with a relay, that is $10 extra per the description in the ad but there is no need for a relay even if your connecting 2 or 3 external amps. The coil on some relays will pull upwards of 200ma from the remote out which may be more than the total remote amperage draw from several amps combined. Just pigtail off the remote wire as needed for amps, DSP, Etc. For those insisting on using a relay make sure you have a flyback suppression diode wired for your relay.

He sells a basic version for people who want to run their own speakers wires from their own amps.:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E90-F10...V4UML&LH_All=1

[TropikThunder]

Old thread I know, but I'm going through the same research process for how to upgrade the sound in an M240i.

Originally Posted by Jmon34

Things I could use some advice on:

1. Is it worth an extra ~$100 for the N vs XN in the rear?

Generally, no, separates in the back seat aren't worth the additional cost. Tweeters work best at ear level, so one main advantage of the separates is better positioning in the sail using separates vs in the door panel using the coax. In the back package tray, the entire speaker is closer to ear level to start with so it's a moot point.

The other main advantage of the separates is a better crossover (or in Eton's case just a high-pass filter). Some coax manufacturers include a crossover/high-pass filter within the housing but many don't, and I can't tell if Eton does or not. But their separates clearly have a high-pass filter. The result is limiting the frequencies that reach the tweeter (>6k I believe) so it's not being asked to reproduce a frequency that it's not capable of (aor at a minimum not very good at.

Originally Posted by Jmon34

2. I've seen lots of conflicting information about the B100XHP crossovers/filters in the thread. Are they needed if I'm planning on keeping the OEM amp?

I honestly believe the Eton manual is wrong on this, maybe it's a translation error? The factory HiFi amp has a Digital Signal Processor (DSP), so the two sub channels get 150Hz and below, while the Midrange/Tweeters get >150Hz. If you switch to an after-market AMP that doesn't have crossovers or a DSP, and it's sending full-range to the speakers, then you want the B100XHP high-pass filters to do what the OEM Amp was doing: block 150Hz and below from reaching the Midrange/Tweeters. If you stick with the OEM Amp, it should already be restricting the frequencies that reach the Midrange/Tweeters so the B100XHP would be redundant. I haven't been able to confirm this yet, maybe I'll email Eton.

Another source of confusion on the crossovers is that the Eton Installation manual refers to installing crossovers when using the separates. In this case, the crossover (again it's actually actually a high-pass filter) is the one that is daisy-chained between the Mid and the Tweeter and is shown in the picture in post #804. So there are two crossovers being mentioned: the one that comes with the B100 W separates and the B100XHP accessory.

[Jmon34]

@TropikThunder

Thanks for the insight and clarification!

[premi23]

I want to purchase the harness from ebay seller: 73mustangconv

But I am confused as to whether I have to order 1 or 2.

His post says "ONE PAIR" does he mean a single pair of wires turned into a harness, or a pair of harnesses for both driver and passenger sides?

So in short, do I order 1 or 2?

edit: it was for both the driver and passenger side.

[premi23]

Viffermike
selmeralto

What's a good alternative to the Eton B100W if I already installed the JL's for the rear?

I want the Etons but I'm not sure where a safe place to order from is..

[selmeralto]

Originally Posted by premi23

Viffermike
selmeralto

What's a good alternative to the Eton B100W if I already installed the JL's for the rear?

I want the Etons but I'm not sure where a safe place to order from is..

Have you tried writing to Madisound?

[MarcoZandrini]

Originally Posted by premi23

Viffermike
selmeralto

What's a good alternative to the Eton B100W if I already installed the JL's for the rear?

I want the Etons but I'm not sure where a safe place to order from is..

Focal has some great speakers.

[premi23]

Originally Posted by selmeralto

Have you tried writing to Madisound?

Oh I saw the website but hadn't heard of them so I didn't think they were legit.. I'll check them out -- thanks!