[mistryn]

I am looking to DIY replacing vacuum hoses myself can anyone reccomend me good quality vacuum hoses that can withstand high temps?

I am also looking to replace the pressure converters/actuators/solenoids as they are called. Is this something I can do or is it a garage only job?
If anyone has replaced this themselves any advice would be great

[mistryn]

Im having the same problem as I have taken it to one dealer and they could not find anything wrong. I think with mine is intermitant at the lower range of revs. I know there are 3 actuators need replacing -
Small turbo
Big turbo
Egr actuator

I am thinking of replacing both turbo actuators first. I know there is a modified braket i would have to buy but unsure of the fitting process

[mistryn]

anyone?

[gojonnygo]

I got a length from a diesel electric / injector reconditioner type place - looks no better than the BMW stuff - but no worse... Bought the little red house from the dealer to keeping looking 'proper'.

It's not a job for the faint heareted - I lost low end power after I started pokeing around and pulled the red hose out the back of the engine - turned out somebody had broken the T piece on one of the little solenoids and bodged it back on - but finding this out was an epic journey of pulling most of the engine bay apart.

I tried to pull a few of the hoses off and realised they've welded themselves on in the heat - so you need to cut a slit in them to get them off without snapping of the connector nipples and access is a nighmare. I ended up pulling the radiator whilst trying get the red hose off the turbo actuator - failed - spat my dummy out and fixed the inial problem with superglue and left the rest of the hoses.... - been fine so far but have bought new pressure convereters and bracket ect to do the job properly but I've been putting it off....

[mistryn]

Many thanks for the help/reply. I will try and give the easiest access ones a try. If it fails I will just get the garage to replace them as they have frayed.

Can you remember what size diameter the vacuum hoses were?
Frm looking on realoem I think they may be 4.5mm but I dont think this is a common size and people have used 4mm?

also with the pressure converters, are you going to replace these your self if you dont mind me asking?

[gojonnygo]

I don't know the diameter off hand - I cut a small sample and took it to the diesel specialist - cost me £10 for 1.5m.

My little red hose is frayed all over but I checked it by sucking and it wasn't leaking.

I actually had two issues - first was the broken T piece that the red hose connects too in the back of the engine. I pulled everything apart - even removed the pressure converters & bracket to get to it - wasn't hard, but time consuming. As this was a Sunday afternoon I glued the T piece and just put everything back - took most of the afternoon as it was my first go. Worked fine.

Later in the week however I lost low down power, so got the hose - bought the converters & bracket & the T piece solenoid i glued with every intention of doing a proper job.... After I'd thrown the toys out the pram because I couldn't get the red hose off the turbo - I noticed a hose popped of the little plastic accumulator because I routed it badly after the first incident. It was hard and frayed anyway so changed it out and bingo - been fine ever since - about 3
months and 5k.

I'll probably do it myself - I prefer it because I don't trust garages not to take short cuts - I don't mind if I do! It's fiddly - I got away with an imperial socket to remove the torques or whatever they are on the strut brace so no special tools needed- just have to be carefull stripping off the bits to get access. Some of the plastics are tricky. While I'm on I was going to do the 'stats & the cabin filter & air filter.

[mistryn]

Thanks again for your detailed reply it is very helpfull. I am with you on the idea of doing the job yourself and then you know its been done right.

I think I will try to replace as many of the vacuum hoses myself, I thought they would just be a pull off job but jusging by what you have mentioned they will be a pain to get off. I presume when the new ones go on they are just a push fit? I do not need to use any type of the glue?

How did you find getting access to the pressure converters? Are they easy enough to take off?

As they are quite expensive I was thinking to take the one I have on off and give the filter a clean inside as per another thread on here?
What parts do you need to remove?

Also is there anyway to disntiguish which converter is for which turbo?

I am thinking of going for silicone vacuum hoses which I think should be ok to withstand high temps?

[mistryn]

I have decided to go for 4mm silicone hose off ebay. I will update this thread later on

[phil200tdi]

I'm doing the same on my 335i soon!

[gojonnygo]

It's not really a job I'd fancy doing twice - so I'd replace the converters while it's apart... It's not mega bucks, £80 ish each I think? Some of the bolts on the bracket are fiddly - don't drop them!!

Access is ok ish once everything is taken off round it. The hoes are a push fit, and tight - wouldn't advise glueing them on becasue you'd never get them off without breaking stuff.

You can see how the system works once you trace the hoses around - it's quite a clever simple system really, and fairly easy to follow. Made me appreciate how important the hoses are - once vaccum pressure is lost them the whole twin turbo control system goes down as they are all interlinked.

[mistryn]

Thanks for the information, I had a quick look today and as you say its quite surprising once you trace the vacuum lines where they go and how they are routed.

The 2 worst ones are from the pressure convertor , going over the turbo heat sheild around the engone block to the side if the inlet. These ones have some kind of mesh which has gone hard and brittle, I cannot tell for the rubber underneath so I will try to replace these 2 first as I have only ordered 3 meteres for now. I hope the 4mm diameter will ok, as I have read some people say its 3.5mm but to get that size its difficult on ebay

The hoses that go from the side of the inlet manifold to the back of the engine seem to be nice and soft and look undamaged so will leave them now.

I did a quick test today of trying to pull one of the hoses off but they seem stuck on with glue but I guess I will have to be carefull not to snap the plastic connectors. Maybe using a stanley knife and splice around the edges to get the hose off would be best?

If I feel confident I may take one of the pressure converters off and see ifI can clean the filter part out but I will see

[mistryn]

I have replaced 2 vacuum hoses today and wasnt too bad as I thought, access under the inlet mainfold was a bit tight. I forgot to take pictures of this as the weather was crap and wanted to get on, however I had a look at the pressure convertors and I think it is a diy job but may take some time in swapping over. i didnt take them off as it was raining and was working outdoors. They are located in a very tight space but do'able. I will definatly write up a how to change pressure covertors but wont get a chance for a few weeks now as my next 3 weekends are busy

I plan to buy and replace both pressure convertors and will write a how to. The other vaccum hoses (from what I could see) were ok, so Idecided to leave them for now.

Tip - these hoses are 3.5mm, I bought 4mm silicone hoses and they a tad bit loose so I ended up putting on cable ties for now until I can order some 3mm or 3.5mm silicone hoses.

[AWBimmer]

As a new owner of a 335d 2006 reg, how do I know if I have power fatigue / loss? Coming from a 320D, this thing flies so to me and I'm sure a number of people will be wondering how to identify this?
Thanks - great info so far!

[mistryn]

First thing would be to check the red boost pipe in the bottom left hand corner just below the airbox - if it is covered in oil then most likely the seals will need replacing

Second thing would be to read the codes off the car with a diagnostic tool

Also check service history to see when was the last time the oil breather pipe was changed, if it hasnt been changed then I would change (my how to is in the techy section). Even though BMW say it doers not need changing but for what it does and to prevent turbo failure I would change it for about £45 and is DIY'able

If when you are driving the car and have no symptons (can feel being pinned to the seat when accelerating) I wouldnt worry to much and enjoy the ride.

When you have a power loss trust me you will notice the diference

[AWBimmer]

Originally Posted by mistryn

First thing would be to check the red boost pipe in the bottom left hand corner just below the airbox - if it is covered in oil then most likely the seals will need replacing

Second thing would be to read the codes off the car with a diagnostic tool

Also check service history to see when was the last time the oil breather pipe was changed, if it hasnt been changed then I would change (my how to is in the techy section). Even though BMW say it doers not need changing but for what it does and to prevent turbo failure I would change it for about £45 and is DIY'able

If when you are driving the car and have no symptons (can feel being pinned to the seat when accelerating) I wouldnt worry to much and enjoy the ride.

When you have a power loss trust me you will notice the diference

Cheers for this mate – I did spot a small bit of oil on the red boost pipe (bottom left corner just under the air box). I’d rather be safe than sorry as it doesn’t come with any warranty. Codes off the car using diagnostic tool means I need to get someone to do this for me – anyone recommended or take to the dealer?

I’ll check the SH today for the last time oil breather pipe was changed and if not, I’ll get on to this... could you send me the part numbers or link to your post please so I know what parts I’d need to make this happen? Deffo want to prevent any mishaps so rather pay the odd few bobs now to save myself a potential hassle later down the line out of negligence - so thanks for letting me know.

Lastly, when driving, the car deffo pins me to the seat and I can’t stop thinking about it at work or home (how anal lol)

If you wouldn’t mind telling me what precaution steps I should take along with part numbers and what I’d need, that would be much appreciated. I have a local guy who I’ve used for all my cars since I started driving some 8 years ago who is a qualified mechanic so I may approach him for some know-how and assistance.

Thanks once again.

[mistryn]

I will put some part numbers up at lunchtime as im on my phone and is a bit difficult to copy links etc

[AWBimmer]

Originally Posted by mistryn

I will put some part numbers up at lunchtime as im on my phone and is a bit difficult to copy links etc

Thank you very much Mate, I really do appreciate that.

Sam.

[mistryn]

With the red boost pipe, people tend to get the seals changed first before opting to changing the whole pipe. See my thread below. The seals are about £4.64 and £5 odd and you will need 2 - one for the top and bottom. This you can change yourself if yuo are confident, the only thing you have to be carefull with is the relasing the top plastic tab/click
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ght=boost+pipe
Part numbers for the seals -
11618506786
11617791470
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...88&hg=11&fg=40

You may wish to change the red boost pipe as from 2009 they modified the pipe but personally I would change the seals first and then see how it goes from there. I have changed my pipe as I plan to keep the car till it breaks so replaced the whole pipe with seals.

Breather pipe please see post below -
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ght=boost+pipe
BMW say that the E9X are fitted with the latest vortex type oil breather and which is a lifetime part and should not need replacing. But as my car has done 105k miles it has never been changed and I believe this is partly to blame for my oil leak as indicated in that thread. For the amount it cost I would change it just for peace of mind. Again, if you are confident you can change this yourself.

With regard to the reading the codes, there are cables you can buy off ebay or any BMW garage (doesnt have to be main dealer) can scan for codes. If you are over West Mids way feel free to pop by to use my cable or if there is someone local to you who dont mind etc

Hope I have not scared you but apart from that owning a 35D is fun

BTW did you sell all your audio equipment from your last car?

hey mistryn, I have found an online DIY on How to Recondition a Pressure Converter for BMW (pierburg) maybe it can save you a few quits.

[Stringbag]

Originally Posted by Martin80k

......I would have no means to change them, since they start at the front of the engine (red one) and goes under the front wipers plastic cover that would need to get removed and that is one hell of a work.

Its quite easy to remove, honestly. Just a few easy bolts and it lifts straight off. Just see the guide Mistryn linked to a few posts above.

[surrey 335i]

Originally Posted by phil200tdi

I'm doing the same on my 335i soon!

Did you do this yet on the 335i if so where did you get the boost pipe what spec was it and how much do I need to order to do replace all the turbo vaccum pipes on a 335i petrol? (thanks)

[phil200tdi]

Originally Posted by surrey 335i

Did you do this yet on the 335i if so where did you get the boost pipe what spec was it and how much do I need to order to do replace all the turbo vaccum pipes on a 335i petrol? (thanks)

I have replaced a few of the more accessible lines so far. I'd be interested in a diagram of where all the lines lead on a 335i!

I bought this stuff:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4mm-x5M-BL...item3a4e27e651