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      04-14-2016, 08:12 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pikcachu View Post
you should probably run high 30's low 40's in the front if you don't want to destroy the PSS shoulders...

better yet get some M4 LCA's and call it a day
Thanks. I'm tempted to change the LCA's, but I'm not sure it's legal in the street classes. The SCCA Solo rules say:
13.8.B. Both the front and rear suspension may be adjusted through their designed range of adjustment by use of factory adjustment arrangements or by taking advantage of inherent manufacturing tolerances. This encompasses both alignment and ride height parameters if such adjustments are provided by the standard components and specified by the factory as normal methods of adjustment. However, no suspension part may be modified for the purpose of adjustment unless such modification is specifically authorized by the factory shop manual.
I tried asking a service advisor at my dealer. He thought it was a pretty strange request and said to "ask the parts guys" if it will work.
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      04-14-2016, 08:20 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by rwalker View Post
I recommend you code your car to show tire pressure and temps in iDrive and adapt from there, targeting ~40-42psi hot.

With stock camber you're going to be pushing into corners, heating up the fronts a lot, unless you're careful with entry speed.

My tires' grip starts to decrease at around 42psi hot... At autox, I get to "hot" by the 3rd run (less than 5 minutes between runs). I've been starting at 34psi cold, and my 3rd run (of 4) is usually fastest.
Thanks. This is exactly the sort of advise I was hoping to get.

I haven't timed it, but some of our events are so large (130-180+ people) that it's more than 10 minutes between runs. I'd like to think I get faster as the day goes on.
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      04-14-2016, 10:32 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bareiss View Post
Thanks. I'm tempted to change the LCA's, but I'm not sure it's legal in the street classes. The SCCA Solo rules say:
13.8.B. Both the front and rear suspension may be adjusted through their designed range of adjustment by use of factory adjustment arrangements or by taking advantage of inherent manufacturing tolerances. This encompasses both alignment and ride height parameters if such adjustments are provided by the standard components and specified by the factory as normal methods of adjustment. However, no suspension part may be modified for the purpose of adjustment unless such modification is specifically authorized by the factory shop manual.
I tried asking a service advisor at my dealer. He thought it was a pretty strange request and said to "ask the parts guys" if it will work.
Ah probably that won't be legal for that
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      04-15-2016, 08:10 AM   #48
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To idle or not

Now that we have determined tire pressures, my question relates to leaving the engine running or shutting it off after each autocross run.

Is it best to leave it idle?
Turn on the heater?
Turn it off and let it soak? (I think this is generally a bad idea)

Depending on the venue, my local events can have 200 participants, sometimes 4 run groups, and multiple driver cars within the run group. This means the time waiting for the next run can be 10 to 15 minutes. This seems like a long idle, but if it is better to continue to circulate oil and coolant, I'll do it.

What do others do?
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      04-15-2016, 11:03 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKPAB View Post
Now that we have determined tire pressures, my question relates to leaving the engine running or shutting it off after each autocross run.

Is it best to leave it idle?
Turn on the heater?
Turn it off and let it soak? (I think this is generally a bad idea)

Depending on the venue, my local events can have 200 participants, sometimes 4 run groups, and multiple driver cars within the run group. This means the time waiting for the next run can be 10 to 15 minutes. This seems like a long idle, but if it is better to continue to circulate oil and coolant, I'll do it.

What do others do?
Virtually everyone here in central Texas takes a very slow drive back to the grid, then turns off the car and opens the hood. People generally restart their cars only a couple of minutes before being sent to the start. I can't cite an engineering rationale for this, but I do it too.
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      04-29-2016, 04:02 PM   #50
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Crash bolts to increase negative camber?

Has anyone looked into the availability of crash bolts for the M235i? I've been told that, in general, they can be used to increase negative camber by 0.5 degrees. Also, they are legal in the autocross street classes.
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      05-06-2016, 11:25 AM   #51
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Hi guys, I'm new to the forum. Just leased a M235xi convertible, automatic. Any thoughts on autocrossing it?
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      05-07-2016, 09:30 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tristemietetore View Post
Hi guys, I'm new to the forum. Just leased a M235xi convertible, automatic. Any thoughts on autocrossing it?
BMW used m235xi's during the M car control clinic I attended last year, as well as M3's and M4's. The side-by-side comparison driving them on a simplified autocross course convinced me to buy a 235, but I did buy the real-wheel drive model, also with the paddle shift automatic.

Just go out and give it a try; I think you'll like it as much as I like autocrossing mine. But as everyone says, be prepared to replace the front tires fairly often unless you want to make modifications that will knock you out of the F Street class. (I'm beginning to see wear on the outer tread surface after only three autocrosses.)
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      05-09-2016, 10:23 AM   #53
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That's what I thought I would do and take it from there. Thanks for chiming in.
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      06-09-2017, 08:45 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tristemietetore View Post
Hi guys, I'm new to the forum. Just leased a M235xi convertible, automatic. Any thoughts on autocrossing it?
I'm tracking and competing with my M235 C. Great car, very competitive. I run super-light wheels, and 200 compound rubber. Sticks, consistent, neutral, fast.
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      06-09-2017, 11:50 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bareiss View Post
driving them on a simplified autocross course convinced me to buy a 235, but I did buy the real-wheel drive model, also with the paddle shift automatic.

I thought you couldn't buy an auto RWD?
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      06-11-2017, 10:55 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryan_f22 View Post
I thought you couldn't buy an auto RWD?
thought it was the other way around...thought you couldnt buy an AWD in manual?
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      06-11-2017, 01:21 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by wanofakind01 View Post
thought it was the other way around...thought you couldnt buy an AWD in manual?
same...

Im pretty sure only xdrives are auto's and manuals are only rwd for US market unless someone has something different.

Id look up the vins to make sure you have what you think you do.
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      06-28-2017, 11:32 PM   #58
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Hi,

I have the stock staggered Michelins with Dinan springs and 15mm wheel spacers. My tires are going FAST... which camber plates and camber angle would you recommend?

I have done a few autocross session and I also have floored the brakes a few times. Any advice on fluid improvement? Thanks.

Last edited by _MotoMa83_; 06-28-2017 at 11:59 PM..
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      02-02-2018, 02:09 PM   #59
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M240i F-Street Setup

Hey All. I’m considering an M240i, and autocross regularly. I’ve read a decent amount about the 235i (and presumably the 240i) having understeer issues in stock form.

Here’s what I’m thinking: 235 section Bridgestone RE71R tires on the stock front 7.5” wheels, and 235 - 255 section Bridgestones on the 8.0” rears. I’d have an alignment done to max out any camber that could help reduce understeer. As I plan to stay in F Street, I cannot use camber plates or LCAs. I figure with the super stiff sidewall of the RE71Rs, maybe the shoulders won’t wear out as much? I’ve read that some people increase front pressure. This is confusing to me. Increasing front tire pressure would seem to reduce grip in the front, hence adding to understeer...

Finally, I suppose I could look into a rear sway bar to reduce understeer if I really needed to. Not a huge fan of this because it would probably reduce overall grip.

Let me know what you guys think. I really want to pull the trigger on an M240i, by if I can’t set it up to be competitive at local autocross events, that’s a deal breaker for me.
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      02-02-2018, 04:57 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TarzanOfTheApes View Post
Hey All. I’m considering an M240i, and autocross regularly. I’ve read a decent amount about the 235i (and presumably the 240i) having understeer issues in stock form.

Here’s what I’m thinking: 235 section Bridgestone RE71R tires on the stock front 7.5” wheels, and 235 - 255 section Bridgestones on the 8.0” rears. I’d have an alignment done to max out any camber that could help reduce understeer. As I plan to stay in F Street, I cannot use camber plates or LCAs. I figure with the super stiff sidewall of the RE71Rs, maybe the shoulders won’t wear out as much? I’ve read that some people increase front pressure. This is confusing to me. Increasing front tire pressure would seem to reduce grip in the front, hence adding to understeer...

Finally, I suppose I could look into a rear sway bar to reduce understeer if I really needed to. Not a huge fan of this because it would probably reduce overall grip.

Let me know what you guys think. I really want to pull the trigger on an M240i, by if I can’t set it up to be competitive at local autocross events, that’s a deal breaker for me.
Camber in the front is fixed... you either do plates, lca or there is now some bushing you can use to add a bit of camber....

It's a bit counter intuitive but higher pressure would give better grip...
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      02-02-2018, 07:27 PM   #61
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Well that sucks...

Sounds like the 240 is just not meant to be an autocross car.
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      02-02-2018, 09:19 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TarzanOfTheApes View Post
Let me know what you guys think. I really want to pull the trigger on an M240i, by if I can’t set it up to be competitive at local autocross events, that’s a deal breaker for me.
Hard pass if you're looking for an autocross car. This car isn't competitive at all in FS. Lack of LSD and stupid tiny tires kill this car, not to mention you'll have overheating issues pretty quickly at an autocross, especially in TX heat. The tiny IC and shrouding everywhere leads quickly to heatsoak and autocross just doesn't have enough straights and/or downtime for proper cooling.

Even if you were to mod the car to STU spec, which isn't cheap by any means compared to other cars in that class, it'll get its ass handed to it by the Zs and C5s. Plus, it can't fit anywhere close to 285s and wheel sizes are extremely limited.

I'm an avid autocross/track guy as well and found out the hard way (after purchase), lol. Fortunately, I still have my ax/track car, although it's retired from campaigning and competing, so I can still have my fun and keep the Bimmer relatively mild for daily duties.
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      02-03-2018, 09:24 AM   #63
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Thank you for your input. I checked with my local dealer, and it is possible to order an LSD as a port installed option, so it’d be legal in Street Class.

This is going to be a hard decision...
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      02-12-2018, 12:08 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryan_f22 View Post
same...

Im pretty sure only xdrives are auto's and manuals are only rwd for US market unless someone has something different.

Id look up the vins to make sure you have what you think you do.
6spd - RWD only

8AT - RWD, X-Drive

Very rare to find a RWD/AT in the wild, from what I've seen. More so than MT for sure. Usually an enthusiast build, sunroof delete, LSD, MPE etc..
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      02-12-2018, 12:55 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TarzanOfTheApes View Post
Thank you for your input. I checked with my local dealer, and it is possible to order an LSD as a port installed option, so it’d be legal in Street Class.

This is going to be a hard decision...
If you're looking to run F Street in a BMW, get an E9X M3 instead. You'll be seconds ahead an M240i...

If you want to stick with the 2 series, consider an M2 instead. Very competitive in B Street.
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      03-04-2018, 07:48 PM   #66
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It is possible to add 1/2 deg. of camber with factory BMW steering knuckle/spindle. You need to use the part number intended for crash repair. It's a factory part intended for the M235i so it may be legal for the stock class, be sure to check the rules.

I raced my convertible M235i auto last year. The car is very heavy and powerful, it is easy to overdrive the tires. It's not the fastest car at the autocross but I'm not a great driver either. I race in ASP due to the engine mods. I have a set of R888s mounted on some 17x8 inch wheels. No suspension mods installed yet but I have M3 LCAs ans TSs waiting to be installed. I do run high front tire pressures. I have never had brake fade.
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