[m235sav]

Here's my set up to get started

2015 M235 Rwd 6MT
19x9.5 rear wheels
265/30/19 r888r tires

Big Boost 3.3 turbo kit
Dorch HPFP
Stage 3 LPFP
BMP port injection
About 620-650whp (have not dynoed yet)
M performance diff
H&R lowering springs

Boost by gear through mhd
1st gear reduced to 40% power

I've tried launching from a dig multiple ways

Preset launch control in sport +
- just bogs and sometimes stalls out

DSC completely off and launch around 4-4500k rpms and wheel hop and spin the tires

I've tried heating the tires up with a Burnout before and no help.
I even put some track prep down and nothing.

I'm trying to find the easiest solution to get a good hard launch without building my whole rear end.

I will be getting 17x9 rear wheels with a slick
Maybe that will fix the issue?

Please shed any light on this situation so I can take peoples money on the streets.

[luchocamp]

Do you have oem clutch ?
How much air pressure on front and rear ?
Picture of the car and use a dragy for measure your 60ft, 1/8 and 1/4
if you are going to run on street I will go with Nitto 555RII.

[m235sav]

Originally Posted by luchocamp

Do you have oem clutch ?
How much air pressure on front and rear ?
Picture of the car and use a dragy for measure your 60ft, 1/8 and 1/4
if you are going to run on street I will go with Nitto 555RII.

No I have clutchmaster 725 series clutch
Normal psi in tires
Didn't use a draggy cause no point if I can't launch correctly
Nittos are better than r888's? I've heard the opposite
For pics intstagram @stock235_

[NewWorldOrder]

Originally Posted by m235sav

Here's my set up to get started

2015 M235 Rwd 6MT
19x9.5 rear wheels
265/30/19 r888r tires

Big Boost 3.3 turbo kit
Dorch HPFP
Stage 3 LPFP
BMP port injection
About 620-650whp (have not dynoed yet)
M performance diff
H&R lowering springs

Boost by gear through mhd
1st gear reduced to 40% power

I've tried launching from a dig multiple ways

Preset launch control in sport +
- just bogs and sometimes stalls out

DSC completely off and launch around 4-4500k rpms and wheel hop and spin the tires

I've tried heating the tires up with a Burnout before and no help.
I even put some track prep down and nothing.

I'm trying to find the easiest solution to get a good hard launch without building my whole rear end.

I will be getting 17x9 rear wheels with a slick
Maybe that will fix the issue?

Please shed any light on this situation so I can take peoples money on the streets.

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think you have a wide enough wheel and tire setup to properly put all that power down.

It may be time to widebody.

[luchocamp]

Originally Posted by m235sav

No I have clutchmaster 725 series clutch
Normal psi in tires
Didn't use a draggy cause no point if I can't launch correctly
Nittos are better than r888's? I've heard the opposite
For pics intstagram @stock235_

good clutch.
try front 36psi and rear 24psi
if you could not measure (dragy or track print) it is impossible to improve.
I said for street Nittto 555RII is a drag radial tire. R888r is a good circuit track that could also perform well from stand but it needs higher temp to operate.
follow me on instagram : luchocampusano

[m235sav]

Originally Posted by luchocamp

good clutch.
try front 36psi and rear 24psi
if you could not measure (dragy or track print) it is impossible to improve.
I said for street Nittto 555RII is a drag radial tire. R888r is a good circuit track that could also perform well from stand but it needs higher temp to operate.
follow me on instagram : luchocampusano

Going to have to code out Tpms if I change tire pressure cause the car will not leave comfort mode if air too low. Also what about rear end build of control/toe/caster arms. Obviously if I can do all it be better but would you suggest one thing over the other?
Thinking abt doing a 15" conversion in rear with a weld and slick

[ggggbmw]

Originally Posted by m235sav

Going to have to code out Tpms if I change tire pressure cause the car will not leave comfort mode if air too low.

The TPMS system has a REALLY wide latitude of acceptable air pressures, IF you use it properly. The trick is to set to set a new baseline for the pressure variance.

Fill your tires to the pressure you want. Then run a TPMS 'reset' from iDrive. The system will learn the current tire pressure, 24psi in your example, and then use that pressure as the new baseline to work against. The TPMS system is not looking for an absolute pressure. It's looking for a pressure drop from the pressure that it starts at. I'm not sure if it's a percentage, or a specific PSI drop that it will trigger a 'low pressure' warning on. (I've read both ways, but nothing official.)

When tracking my car, I'll set a starting pressure of ~26 PSI, and set the TPMS to that. End up with a hot pressure around ~35 PSI. Never alerts. And even when overnight cold temps mean ~22PSI leaving the hotel in the morning, still no alerts, because the pressure hasn't dropped significantly from the new ~26 PSI baseline.

[Maynard]

Originally Posted by ggggbmw

The TPMS system has a REALLY wide latitude of acceptable air pressures, IF you use it properly. The trick is to set to set a new baseline for the pressure variance.

Fill your tires to the pressure you want. Then run a TPMS 'reset' from iDrive. The system will learn the current tire pressure, 24psi in your example, and then use that pressure as the new baseline to work against. The TPMS system is not looking for an absolute pressure. It's looking for a pressure drop from the pressure that it starts at. I'm not sure if it's a percentage, or a specific PSI drop that it will trigger a 'low pressure' warning on. (I've read both ways, but nothing official.)

When tracking my car, I'll set a starting pressure of ~26 PSI, and set the TPMS to that. End up with a hot pressure around ~35 PSI. Never alerts. And even when overnight cold temps mean ~22PSI leaving the hotel in the morning, still no alerts, because the pressure hasn't dropped significantly from the new ~26 PSI baseline.

Very good to know. I did not know this last year and got into a situation where I thought I was going to miss my first on track session while airing them up and then resetting it.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by ggggbmw

When tracking my car, I'll set a starting pressure of ~26 PSI, and set the TPMS to that. End up with a hot pressure around ~35 PSI. Never alerts. And even when overnight cold temps mean ~22PSI leaving the hotel in the morning, still no alerts, because the pressure hasn't dropped significantly from the new ~26 PSI baseline.

Originally Posted by Maynard

Very good to know. I did not know this last year and got into a situation where I thought I was going to miss my first on track session while airing them up and then resetting it.

It was suggested by the shop that built my car that I use this approach at the track. It worked for the first event or two with no issues. After that, it didn't.

Generally, it took a long time passing 50%, 60%, etc. and frequently came back with the message telling me my pressures were too low and to add air and try again. Sometimes it reset as expected, I'd turn the car off, and when it was restarted the car no longer liked the pressures. Every once in a while, it worked as it was supposed to.

I went out most of the time with the system still resetting. Occasionally, exiting the hot pits I'd look down and see the display telling me I was limited to 80 MPH. That never turned out to be true.

I wonder now if I just shouldn't have had the TPMS sensors yanked and TPMS coded off. I have no idea if that would have worked and wouldn't be surprised to learn that the car couldn't be driven without sensors or a TPMS seen to be working.

[Maynard]

Damn - that was sounding easy - I guess too easy. For now I just wait and refill some air at the end of the day. Then I end up bleeding off air the first couple of sessions to get to a steady range of c. 37 hot. Even if it would improve pressures on that first session, I think I'd rather sneak up on it vs. heading out that low - it would freak me out to head up the S's at even 70mph with only 23# in the tires on that first cold lap.

You could always try what Honda people call the 'tube trick'. for whatever reason, the process to reset new tpms after a wheel swap is so technically challenging that even the dealership gets it wrong half the time. So they register 4 tpms units, then put them into a piece of pipe with a tire valve in the cap and pressurize it.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by Maynard

it would freak me out to head up the S's at even 70mph with only 23# in the tires on that first cold lap.

FWIW, my initial pressure settings on 255 R888Rs ranged from 29.0 LF to 30.5 RR with a target hot psi of 39.0 for all four.