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2Addicts | BMW 2-Series forum Technical Topics N55 (M235i) Engine, Transmission, Exhaust, Tuning Launch Control

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      02-12-2016, 02:30 PM   #23
LimeRockM235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBucket View Post
That is to do a burnout, not a launch. Although to get the best launch you would do a burnout before so the tires are nice and warm and sticky.
im completely aware of what it does. id rather have that then a set rpm launch control.
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      02-12-2016, 02:53 PM   #24
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I've never had much improved launches warning up street tires. Unless they're NT555Rs or something.

How about you guys?

Honestly I think our launch control allows for way too much wheelspin off the line.
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      02-12-2016, 03:49 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mywifes335 View Post
I've never had much improved launches warning up street tires. Unless they're NT555Rs or something.

How about you guys?

Honestly I think our launch control allows for way too much wheelspin off the line.
Helps a little bit, but yeah you really do need some kind of tire made for drag racing to be able to launch the car real well.
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      06-07-2016, 07:50 AM   #26
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For my old Speed3, two of the best features provided by Cobb Access port were the 2-step launch limiter and no lift shift.

It would be great to have the same for the m235i.
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      06-07-2016, 09:38 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boosted_six View Post
For my old Speed3, two of the best features provided by Cobb Access port were the 2-step launch limiter and no lift shift.

It would be great to have the same for the m235i.
Too bad that we don't have something like the Cobb AP for the F-Series N55
I miss the APv3 that I had on my Speed3
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      06-07-2016, 02:22 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllEyesOnMe View Post
1.) Put your 6MT in Sport+ mode
2.) Clutch in, step on the gas pedal, the car will hold revs at 3.5k rpm
3.) Clutch slowly out, gas pedal slowly to the floor

Caution: Step on the gas pedal just enough that the revs hold at 3.5k rpm. Otherwise, all you'll get is wheel spin if you floor it. The trick is to ease out on the clutch and slowly floor the car.
This is correct, and especialy important if you have your 235i heavily tuned. As it will only spin easier with the increased Horsepower. I rev to about 3k because of the stage 3 dinan. The LSD helps a bit but all in all it ends up being driver skill in the end. I still get wheel spin from time to time

Hopefully the new aggressive fitment Ive got on order will help with this as well

19x8.5F +35ET 235/35/19
19x9.5R +40ET 265/30/19



ETA is June 16th cant wait
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      06-10-2016, 04:56 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mywifes335 View Post
I've never had much improved launches warning up street tires. Unless they're NT555Rs or something.

How about you guys?

Honestly I think our launch control allows for way too much wheelspin off the line.
Its funny, but I Live in Tucson Arizona, it was 115 degrees F here this past Monday. When out driving our rural roads I deff get better grip in the summer. I'm sure, due to the heat here . In the winter I get tons more wheel spin so there is a noticeable difference even on street tires.I usually roll PSS's
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      06-26-2016, 01:33 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allthatisntnow View Post
I don't think its milage based so much as temperature based. The two are pretty synonymous in this situation though. As long as transmission and engine are at operating temp and no faults, the software will allow it. There is a five minute cool down period after each attempt as well for the ZF8 to recover.

It is somewhat mileage based.
There should be a complete set of instructions in the owners manual through the Idrive system.
basically vehicle must be at operating temp and have been driven for a minimum of 6 miles since the last ignition cycle.
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      06-26-2016, 07:48 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taunto View Post
It is somewhat mileage based.
There should be a complete set of instructions in the owners manual through the Idrive system.
basically vehicle must be at operating temp and have been driven for a minimum of 6 miles since the last ignition cycle.
You probably need to have driven around 6 miles to get to operating temperature. Well at least the transmission oil anyway. Takes a lot longer for that to warm up than the engine.
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