[XutvJet]

Like many 6MT owners, I found the OEM clutch pedal design and feel to be pretty terrible compared to every other manual I've owned and/or driven since the late 1980s. The clutch pedal in my M235 has a really long throw. The catch point starts almost in the middle and by the time it's done catching, you're foot is off the floor (terrible). The pedal is very soft and void of any feel with respect to the clutch friction point. Lastly, in it's resting position, the pedal sits about 1/2" higher than the brake pedal and accelerator. Why, BMW? All these odd design elements make it hard to shift smoothly, shift fast, and rev match smoothly during harder driving. The Ultimate Clutch Pedal (UCP) solves all these issues.

The UCP greatly lowers the catch point, increases pedal firmness (which is adjustable with the UCP), allows you to feel the friction point (it's entirely metal vs the OEM plastic pedal), and lowers the resting position of the pedal to a few mm below the brake pedal.

I've had the UCP installed for about a week now and it's still taking time to get used to it. The catch point is pretty close to the floor and now I can simply pivot my heel to engage and disengage the clutch. Overall, my shifting is smoother around town, especially the 1-2 shift. Under hard driving, it's much easier and faster to hit the gears. I can now feel the friction point too.

Install

The following linked DIYs have most of the information you need so I won't reinvent the wheel here other than offer some pointers from my install:

https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1305692

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1211871

http://www.ultimateclutchpedal.com/instructions/

If you're not a DIYer and haven't worked on cars and in very crammed spots, then you're going to have a hell of a time with install. I'm 6' 2" 175lb and have fairly big hands. Point being it's possible to do this if you're a bigger/taller guy, but you will be working in a very confined area with all sorts of electronics and wires including an airbag. Being careful is paramount.

You need quite a few tools and creativity at your disposal. You'll need various metric sockets and extensions, torx bits and sockets, metric hex tool set, a finger driver, pick tool set, flashlights, mirror, small needle nose pliers, small drivers, patience, sense of humor, and grippy fingers used to working blind.

1) Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery in the trunk. You need to do this because you'll be disconnecting electrical parts and working right below the knee airbag.

2) If your car has a reverse camera, the module sits about 1" to the left of the pedal assembly making it impossible to remove the pedal if you leave the module in place. IMO, this is the hardest part of the whole install. You will need to disconnect the two connectors to the module, remove the module, and then remove the module housing. The house is held in by a torx screw (#24 I believe) buried in spot just above the airbag and completely out of view. I felt where the screw was to get a frame of reference. I then used a torx socket with numerous extensions and snaked the socket to the screw. Once I got it to break loose, I then could take a finger driver with the same size torx bit and completely loosen and remove the screw. The housing then is held in by a single plastic bracket and clip. Peering inside the house, you'll see the clip. With a 90 degree pick tool, I carefully lifted the tab of the clip while pushing the housing towards the driver's set. The housing then should release, pop free, and can be removed. Once the housing is out of the way, you'll have a ton more room to work, relatively speaking LOL

3) Next, you then pop out plastic push pin that attaches the clutch master cylinder arm to the clutch pedal. Make sure to put your finger on the side the pin will pop out of or you risk the pin flying out and getting lost in the dashboard.

4) Next you move on to the over-center spring assembly. With a pick tool, remove the tiny c-clip from the lower pivot barrel pin and then push out and remove the barrel pin. Then proceed to the upper pivot barrel pin and c-clip and do the same. Then you can lift upwards on the pedal and remove the over-center spring.

5) Removing the e-clip from upper pedal arm pivot is easy. Use a small driver here.

6) The pedal return spring attached to the pedal can be removed with your fingers. It's a very soft spring.

7) With all that done, you lift upwards on the pedal to free it from the clutch master cylinder arm and slide the pedal to the left towards the door to remove.

8) The UCP then installs in reverse order. I suggest using a lithium grease or similar on the upper pivot arm rod as the metal bearings on the UCP are tight and the grease will help the pedal slide more easily.

9) MAKE SURE to install the over-center spring first and then the clutch master cylinder arm bolt. Doing it the other way will be impossible as you'll be fighting the spring tension which is very high. With the over-center spring mounted in place, you can then simply push the pedal in about 1/2" to get the bolt to slide through the pedal and clutch master cylinder arm bolt.

[stlb5]

Which springs did you use? Some of the other threads you quoted listed their preferences. Also, thank you for your review. I've had a UCP sitting around for a long time dreading the install. Your description of how it operates now reminds me of the clutch in my old STi which I loved!

[VPB74]

Has anyone done this on a 2018 M240i? I can't even figure out how to get the lower panel off.

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by stlb5

Which springs did you use? Some of the other threads you quoted listed their preferences. Also, thank you for your review. I've had a UCP sitting around for a long time dreading the install. Your description of how it operates now reminds me of the clutch in my old STi which I loved!

Prior to having the UCP, I ran the pedal for a while without the larger outside over-center spring (left the small one in place). With the UCP, I went with the middle setting (firmer pedal than stock), but left both springs installed to how how it feels. I think I'll going to remove the larger over-center spring.

Like you, I had a 2012 WRX and that clutch pedal had monumentally better feel and a lot more weight than the OEM BMW clutch pedal. The UCP is very close to the WRX clutch pedal and with the larger over-center spring removed, it should have similar weight. The UCP will catch a bit quicker off the floor though than the WRX pedal.

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by VPB74

Has anyone done this on a 2018 M240i? I can't even figure out how to get the lower panel off.

It should be held in with two 10mm nuts on the bottom side of the panel. You then take a plastic trim panel remove tool and separate the front face of the bottom panel from the lower dashboard. There quite a few tabs holding it in place. Once those tabs are popped free, then you can lower and carefully pull out the panel, pulling it down and towards the driver's seat. Keep in mind that there are two electrical connectors on the panel for a footwell light and warning chime speaker.

A word of caution, getting the panel back into place is a bit difficult and takes time and patience. I've removed it probably 8 times now and still fight with it a bit getting it reinstalled.

[Sportstick]

Thanks much for taking the time to write out this detailed and informative review of the installation. Very kind and helpful. I think you have dissuaded me from proceeding. I wouldn't try it myself, and I can't imagine showing this to the dealer and getting them to take the time, particularly the logistics of me choosing the preferred pedal effort. I've actually learned to use my OE clutch as is, with the larger bump stop and don't really have significant complaints about it.

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by Sportstick

Thanks much for taking the time to write out this detailed and informative review of the installation. Very kind and helpful. I think you have dissuaded me from proceeding. I wouldn't try it myself, and I can't imagine showing this to the dealer and getting them to take the time, particularly the logistics of me choosing the preferred pedal effort. I've actually learned to use my OE clutch as is, with the larger bump stop and don't really have significant complaints about it.

Yeah, I can't imagine a dealer being willing to install the part at all and an independent shop would probably charge you $300+ to do it. With that said, I could probably do the install now in around an hour. If you're good with the OEM clutch and the clutch stop, I wouldn't bother. For those that race and/or want to shift quickly and execute smooth and fast rev match downshifts, you need this pedal. The pedal feels so much more solid. Teamed with the M Performance shift knob which add a lot more feel, it's a great combo.

[Lipper]

I wanted one of these for ages - I just need them to make a right-hand drive version!

[VPB74]

I just did this install on my 2018 M240i and I thought I’d share a few things I learned.

1) As Xutvjet indicates, remove the two 10mm nuts on the bottom side of the lower trim panel. You then take a plastic trim panel removal tool and separate the front face of the bottom panel from the lower dashboard. There quite a few tabs holding it in place. Once those tabs are popped free, then you can lower and carefully pull out the panel, pulling it down and towards the driver's seat. Once you get it lowered some, disconnect the two electrical connectors on the panel; one for a footwell light and the second for a warning chime speaker. Remove the panel and put it in a safe place.

2) Mine has the reverse camera module just to the left of the clutch pedal. The metal module is held in a black plastic housing. There’s a small plastic tab on the front (by the fire wall) of the plastic housing and one on the bottom to hold the module in the housing. I was able to release these tabs and slide the module out of the housing without disconnecting the wires. To gain some access to this area, I also removed the little storage compartment on the lower part of the dash just to the left of the steering column. Open the door and then slide a panel removal tool into the seam between the top of the compartment and the dash, and carefully pry downwards. There are three tabs holding it in place, one on each side and one in the middle. Once these are released, rotate the compartment downward and out. It’s a bit of a tight fit so you may have to work it back and forth some. Once this compartment is out, you can actually see the screw that holds the plastic module case in place (it uses a #25 Torx bit). I was able to reach in the compartment opening and using a Torx driver remove the screw. Once the screw is removed, slide the housing back (towards the back of the car) and it will come free (no clip on mine).

The rest of the install was just like Xutvjet describes. Really, removing the little compartment to the left of the steering column made it much easier. I chose to remove the larger outside over-center spring (leaving just the small inside spring) and located it in the center position.

[Sportstick]

Originally Posted by VPB74

I just did this install on my 2018 M240i and I thought I’d share a few things I learned...

I guess I'm still curious...now that you have it, what is the driving experience (allowing for placebo effect of course!)

Thanks!

[CP911]

Meh. My M240i clutch pedal feels just like my old 2016 WRX did, except the bimmer's stops further away, which was indeed strange at first. I then quickly realized that the clutch has already been disengaged by then, meaning I don't actually need to pivot my foot so far forward that the pedal stops and my heel wants to start lifting off the floor mat. It's unnecessary. Instead, I just push the pedal in a controlled motion until I know I'm past the disengagement point (muscle memory for the win!), right hand does its thing, and I feather the clutch pedal back out as necessary to keep things smooth. No problems here. This M240i and the WRX with their light pedal feel and subtle/vague clutch bite ended up allowing me to shift more smoothly than I ever could in my Porsche 997.1 C2S, which had a stiff pedal and a heavy, hard-to-control bite point on the way back out. Go figure.

In the end, I think there will always be that adjustment period before one learns how to get the best out of a new MT car.

[VPB74]

Originally Posted by Sportstick

I guess I'm still curious...now that you have it, what is the driving experience (allowing for placebo effect of course!)

Thanks!

After driving it for a day or so, the clutch pedal is definitely lighter and you can more easily feel the release point. I think after some more time with it, it will make shifting at lower rpms (under 5000) a bit more positive. I'm still a bit uncertain about higher rpms. I think the combination of the clutch delay valving and fly by wire throttle is messing me up. Never driven a car before that I haven't been able to quickly master shifting.

[XutvJet]

A quick update. Today I removed the large spring from the double clutch spring unit but kept the small spring in place. Removing the larger spring increases pedal firmness and more closely matches the weight and motion of my prior 2012 WRX's clutch. I think this the right setup.

I love all the adjustability of the pedal. It's SO much better than the stock pedal. I can actually feel what the clutch is doing now. In the summer, I'm yanking the clutch delay valve.

[XutvJet]

Update 6/18/19

After running the UCP with the larger clutch spring removed for about 6 months, I still wasn't completely happy with the pedal feel, specifically take-up and modulation. Taking out the large spring removes the resistance of the pedal as you push it in and makes it firmer, but leaving the smaller spring still results in that wonky, springy/popping action as the pedal gets to the top of its travel. For me, it feels unnatural and made it difficult to judge the take up point and when I could release the pedal fully. The result was a sometimes jerky and clunky shift which made me look like an amateur and is frustrating considering the decades of manual driving under my belt. A few days ago, I reinstalled the big spring and then set the spring assembly attachment point to the UCP on its firmest setting. That didn't help at all. Putting the spring back in resulted in that crappy springy/popping action as I depressed the pedal and further removed pedal feel. It made the pedal feel light too.

So, I said screw the clutch spring and removed both springs. Yeah, what a world of difference. It feels like a normal clutch pedal now. The pedal is pretty firm, but I can feel EVERYTHING now. Screw those springs.

Lots of other BMW owners have removed the clutch spring on their stock pedals and have loved it. Their biggest compliant was that with the spring gone, the plastic pedal had some side to side movement. This isn't the case with the UCP as it's entirely metal and has metal bushings. The initial pedal feel on the first 1/2" of depression is slightly soft and then progresses to firm. This progression helps me gauge clutch take-up as I release it.

[Silver6spd]

What is the difficulty level of removing the springs as I had the local Indy shop install mine?

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by Silver6spd

What is the difficulty level of removing the springs as I had the local Indy shop install mine?

If you're not mechanically inclined or humanly flexible, it might be a bit difficult.

Tools needed

Short 17mm socket and ratchet
10mm socket
10mm open end wrench
4mm hex key
6mm hex key
Plastic trim pry tools
Flashlight

1) You're working right next to two airbags. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery using a 10mm socket. Wrap the disconnected lead in a towel and set it to the side and away from the negative battery terminal post. Take a small towel and loop it through the truck lid attachment point on the body. This will keep you from making a STUPID mistake of closing the trunk with the battery off.

2) Remove the dashboard under panel by the pedals by removing two 10mm nuts. Using the plastic trim pry tools or your fingernails, pry the front portion of the panel loose to disengage the clips. Pull the panel down and remove electrical connectors to the foot well light and chime speaker. Carefully remove the panel.

3) Using the 6mm hex key and 17mm socket/ratchet, remove the bolt, nut, and washer connecting the pedal to the clutch slave cylinder arm. This is in a somewhat difficult spot and can't be easily seen unless lying on your back and looking upwards into the dash/pedal area.

4) Using the 4mm hex key and 10mm socket/ratchet or 10mm wrench, remove the bolt, nut, and washer connecting the pedal to the clutch spring assembly.

5) Pull the pedal towards you and the springs can easily be removed. Leave the plastic components of the spring assembly in place as you'll reinstall them. The two plastic pieces that hold the springs in will stay together once you bolt everything together. It's just easier to leave it installed like stock; simply minus the springs.

6) Reinstall the clutch pedal to slave cylinder bolt, washer, and nut. Tighten the nut to around 20 ft/lbs (i.e., just nice and slug, don't get crazy).

7) Reinstall the clutch pedal to spring assembly plastics with the lower plastic assembly in the third hole on the UCP pedal furthest from the driver. This is the stock location attachment point. Tighten the nut to around 15 ft/lbs (i.e., just nice and slug, don't get crazy)

8) Reconnect the light and speaker electrical connections to the under panel. Reinstall under panel. This is kind of a pain. It only goes in one way and it takes practice.

9) Reconnect battery.


It sounds like a lot, but I can do all of this in about 20 minutes or less now.

[Dylan86]

I think this mod will be in the cards in 2020, for me. Sounds like a great replacement.

[Silver6spd]

Thank You for the detailed reply XutvJet.

I am mechanically inclined and still Fairly flexible but over the years the patience has shortened and my luck has gone south a bit hence why I had the indy shop do the initial install. I imagined that I would have tried it myself but only ended up with a car with a half installed clutch pedal.

I will keep your instructions in mind and might try it in the fall when the garage is at a tolerable temperature, I do hope someone else utilizes what you posted.

Again, Thank You

[stlb5]

I finally installed my UCP this weekend. Overall I'm very happy with it. Much shorter throw. It's not exactly like my old STI clutch in that I can't just keep my heel on the floor and operate it, the pedal is too low for me. But there is much less leg movement now and I can engage the clutch, put my heel down and then just rock my foot to let it back out.

On the install, I read through this post and the reference posts several times and I also found this video helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=afe2rheIKWI

It's from an E92 M3, but the clutch pedal part of the install is the same. If nothing else, it gives a great visual of all the parts and where the connection points are. I don't have a back up camera module to contend with, but I did leave the airbag in place. I'm a big boy so space was tight, but I was able to get this done in about 45 minutes.

For the clutch stop. I originally left my BMS stop in, but it made it very hard to start the car. Shifting was fine, but I really had to push down hard to get the car to start. I swapped in the stop that comes with the UCP and it starts fine now. As you can see in the attached picture, there's not much difference, but enough.

[BeautyInMotionF22]

This sounds like a great piece of the puzzle for getting the clutch pedal engagement to feel "normal".

In my E92 i had removed the springs and as XutvJet stated there was some side to side play but it was well worth it.

I also removed the CDV which is what i imagine is causing the most frustration in getting the smooth engagement at lower gears. Unfortunately for our cars the CDV is now built into the clutch slave cylinder and its removal is a bit more involved than it used to be so i haven't gotten around to doing it yet.

My bottom line guess would be that the UCP set up how you like it coupled with the removal of the CDV would result in the best combo.

[stlb5]

Originally Posted by BeautyInMotionF22

This sounds like a great piece of the puzzle for getting the clutch pedal engagement to feel "normal".

In my E92 i had removed the springs and as XutvJet stated there was some side to side play but it was well worth it.

I also removed the CDV which is what i imagine is causing the most frustration in getting the smooth engagement at lower gears. Unfortunately for our cars the CDV is now built into the clutch slave cylinder and its removal is a bit more involved than it used to be so i haven't gotten around to doing it yet.

My bottom line guess would be that the UCP set up how you like it coupled with the removal of the CDV would result in the best combo.

I left the springs un-installed on my UCP per XutvJet. With that big bronze bushing, there is no play. I'm a bit more used to it now and really enjoying it.