10-02-2020, 08:35 AM | #1 |
Private First Class
192
Rep 178
Posts |
Three Years Later: Steering Rack Clunk Fixed for $70
Since August of 2017, I have been complaining (in no less than three separate threads) about a driver's side front-end clunk that would occur upon driving over mild road imperfections. Most of you probably know this as the steering rack clunk that has been discussed ad nauseam.
Something you should know about me is that I am pretty stubborn, especially when it comes to car maintenance and repair. Foolishly, I ruled out the steering rack early on because I was not experiencing the most common symptoms detailed by F3X/F2X owners. In response, I used trial and error to track down the source and replaced or upgraded every part of the front suspension: two sets of coilovers, camber plates and new strut mounts, end links, swaybar bushings, F8X LCAs, Tension Struts, and tie rods. After each upgrade the handling improved incrementally but the clunk remained. As you all know, trial and error is never the best approach when diagnosing an issue. I hate to say it but Occam's razor is usually the best principle to start with. Acknowledging this after three years of chasing the problem, I investigated the mechanical operation of the rack and noticed that (LINK IS DEAD, SEE POSTS BELOW) ThyssenKrupp, the manufacturer of our rack, released a repair kit designed to address excessive play that results in cabin noise. Frankly, this should have been a recall issued by BMW but that's an argument for a different time. I ordered the kit ($30) and the necessary steering rack pin socket from a UK eBay seller ($40), removed the old thrust piece, replaced it with the new version, greased up the compnents with FB-1, and torqued the cap with the tool to 70nm. Note that there are some specific and very expensive tools recommended by ThyssenKrupp, but they are totally unnecessary. If your steering doesn't "return to center" when driving, just loosen up the cap a bit (you'll notice in the instructions the thrust piece is compressed by a spring). Alternatively, you can choose to keep it tighter as I did, which is purely a preference thing. The result? Tighter steering and total silence. In conclusion, if you have been chasing a front-end clunk it is probably your steering rack and this $70 fix is the solution. No need to replace the entire rack, just install this updated piece. Last edited by Sail Boat; 10-30-2020 at 03:38 PM.. |
Appreciate
12
dradernh4377.50 aftercorbu404.50 aerobod3615.00 PeterWT252.50 shadowfax1289.00 BrettKA7566.50 John in VA983.00 POMFKIMOCHI38.50 JD11937129.50 wfujay19.50 cdn240cab38.00 EEA1.50 |
10-02-2020, 08:25 PM | #2 |
E4 Mafia
323
Rep 412
Posts
Drives: E30, E36/5, E46, F22, F30
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: MD
iTrader: (0)
Garage List 1990 BMW 325i [0.00]
1998 BMW 318ti [0.00] 2003 BMW 325i [0.00] 2015 BMW 335i [0.00] 2015 BMW M235i [0.00] |
wow, this is incredible information. you did the community a service!
__________________
Squad - '90 E30 325i MT (225k) | '98 E36/5 318ti MT (153k) | '03 E46 325i MT (152k)| '15 F22 M235i MT (60k) | '15 F30 335i MT (80k)
KIA - '91 E30 325i AT (146k) | '02 E46 325i MT (212k) Bring back the purple M stripe |
Appreciate
0
|
10-02-2020, 09:00 PM | #3 | |
Lieutenant
249
Rep 504
Posts |
Quote:
__________________
E46 -> E90 -> F30 -> F23
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
10-11-2020, 09:15 AM | #4 |
Father of Frankenfold
299
Rep 531
Posts
Drives: Yo daddy's 2014 X3 M Sport
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Albuquerque
|
Newtis is dead, but this is more or less the same info: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1603926
__________________
F25 X3 35i M Sport | Frankenfold 6662 | VRSF Race IC | FTP CP | BM3 tuned | XDI-35 HPFP | Stage 2 LPFP | Ethanol mixed | WMI | Oil cooler | xHP | X5/550i brakes
|
10-13-2020, 02:22 PM | #5 | |
Private First Class
192
Rep 178
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
10-24-2020, 02:23 PM | #7 |
Private First Class
192
Rep 178
Posts |
Correct, it is 70nm, but you will likely need to loosen the cap to reduce the preload and allow the steering wheel to return to center.
|
Appreciate
0
|
10-25-2020, 02:12 PM | #8 |
Private
11
Rep 72
Posts |
Thank you mate
Last edited by Pbdeed; 10-25-2020 at 03:45 PM.. |
Appreciate
0
|
10-30-2020, 12:53 AM | #10 | |
Enlisted Member
20
Rep 36
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
10-30-2020, 01:05 AM | #11 | |
Enlisted Member
20
Rep 36
Posts |
Quote:
https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...et-32106891974 Also, it's only $30 here not $70 so I'm a bit confused. Also in the video linked above, the guy said the dealership had to make a computer adjustment after installing. Was this the case with yours as well? Last edited by wfujay; 10-30-2020 at 01:44 AM.. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
10-30-2020, 01:21 PM | #12 | |
Private First Class
192
Rep 178
Posts |
Quote:
If you think about what this part is for and how it works, it is clear that computer adjustment isn't necessary. The thrust piece is intended to keep the pinion tightly intermeshed with the rack (rack and pinion steering). An under-tensioned thrust piece creates slack between the rack and pinion which produces an audible noise when driving over road imperfections. The computer adjustment you might be referring to is a device sold to dealerships by Thyssenkrupp as an operational improvement which adjusts the thrust piece correctly without the need for subsequent adjustment. Because we are DIYing this repair and would like to stay away from spending $2,000+ on the device, you will need to tighten to 70nm upon installation and loosen the cap incrementally until the steering wheel returns to center or your desired resistance is achieved. If there is a recommended steering control module adjustment I doubt it would make any difference and cannot think of a reason why it would need updating considering the power side of the rack is not affected by replacing the thrust piece. Last edited by Sail Boat; 10-30-2020 at 01:36 PM.. |
|
Appreciate
1
wfujay19.50 |
10-30-2020, 05:11 PM | #13 | |
Enlisted Member
20
Rep 36
Posts |
Quote:
What a joke, but to be fair the guy is a huge dork and their service department is completely incompetent so it looks like I'll have to repair this myself. Seems simple enough. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
11-01-2020, 07:13 AM | #14 |
Car Enthusiast
282
Rep 501
Posts |
Are you guys getting this clunking noise only when the engine is off or with the engine running and driving as well?
__________________
2016 M235 - Melbourne Red
2005 BMW M3 - Sold Licensed Automotive technician for BMW Regina |
Appreciate
0
|
11-01-2020, 03:35 PM | #15 | |
Enlisted Member
20
Rep 36
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
1
Resoelg238.00 |
11-02-2020, 04:58 AM | #16 | |
Private
11
Rep 72
Posts |
Quote:
I know the sound is not coilolvers as Iīve checked everyjoint (well the garaje that installed them) and the problem I have is the same as everybody is writing in forums. I opted for not arguing with the dealer as in this case they can say itīs the suspension mod, although it isnt, but I wont achieve anything. In fact, I try to not to go to the dealer when I can (i tried this time because of warranty), as they are incompetent. |
|
Appreciate
1
wfujay19.50 |
11-02-2020, 05:11 AM | #17 | |
Private
11
Rep 72
Posts |
Quote:
Driving, I hear a clonk almost full right turning, going slow and over a bump or uneven surface. |
|
Appreciate
1
wfujay19.50 |
11-02-2020, 08:26 AM | #18 | |
Enlisted Member
20
Rep 36
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
11-12-2020, 01:37 PM | #19 |
Private
11
Rep 72
Posts |
Today I installed the repair kit in my M240i. The mechanic that did it also used the "clamps" included in the kit.
Iīve tried to reproduce the clonk in the ramp of my garage (where I always hear it) several times and the noise seems to have gone (once I heard somthing, but maybe it was other thing). Iīve repeated the same movement (turning left at the beginning of the ramp and then turning almost full right in a corner in the ramp) like 6 or 7 times and while it would have done the clonk before now it doesnt (Except that noise Iīve heard once). But with the Engine off , if I move the steering wheel a bit left and right I hear clearly a noise, just as before. Just to clarify, I had "two noises" the one with engine off (which I really donīt care) and the one driving slow and turning into a bump. I expected to solve both, but it seems that, at least, the one that disturbed me is fixed. But letīs see next days what happens. |
Appreciate
0
|
11-17-2020, 04:19 PM | #20 |
Private
11
Rep 72
Posts |
I need some help/info.
As Iīve said in my last post, the noise turning right seems to have disappeared, but i still hear a noise moving the wheel with engine off. The thing is that after a track day this weekend, today iīve started to hear a noise when almost full turning left going very slow (for example, starting to move from a parking). Not always reproducible, when it does, itīs following that pattern, turning a bit right and almost full left. Itīs just like the first time I had found a noise full turning right (after a track day too) => https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1763966 So it's like the clonk has moved from "right" turning to "left" turning (though I donīt hear it as often as I did at right because the turnings exiting my parking place are right ones). I wonder if when garaje installed the repair kit may have not tighten it as much as it should (as I still hear a noise with the engine off). Any advice? |
Appreciate
0
|
11-18-2020, 04:43 AM | #21 |
Private
11
Rep 72
Posts |
I went to a garage (which installed my repair kit) and their irst diagnostc without checking with detail was that is something related with the spring.
This could make sense as I need to turnsteering wheel one side and then the other side to reproduce it and could explain that it happened before in one direction (right) and now the opposite (left). I'll take my car this week and they will check it |
Appreciate
0
|
11-19-2020, 09:44 AM | #22 | |
Enlisted Member
20
Rep 36
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
|
|