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      03-30-2017, 09:30 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pparana View Post
Actually the bigger the scratch the easier to fill in some ways, but any good detail guy could do it. I would fill it with a few coats of touch up primer, give that a week between coats (to shrink and cure) and take to a detail guy for finish. It will be noticeable if you are right on top of it, but I could make that invisible from 24" for a pro, and pretty much non-existent to 95 percent of the world from under 12" staring right at it.

Your car is painted in waterborne base, and metallic from the factory. This, and pearl are nightmares to match. This would require blending to look right. You would have to paint your bumper, and blend both rear quarter panels and horizontal portion of the trunk. Plus the clear has to go over all of the blend panels, you clear the bumper, qp, sail panels, full trunk and roof. Even just the bumper requires a few hours of prep to pull off car, remove diffuser fill and sand, seal coat, base coat and clear as well as reassemble.

The reason you need to blend is the metallics lay different out of almost every gun and booth conditions. You would need to clear all of that to not have a clear blend, which is a recipe for clearcoat separation in a few years. Blending is hard, we would only let guys with 5 plus years exp. in a production spray environment before we would let them blend as redos are expensive.

You could find someone to do this for a few hundred bucks, I can assure you it is not done right, the materials alone are a $100-$150 for a high end paint, clear and sealer for a shop.

Basically just get it touched up, save your coin for when the car bumper is truly out of commission. DD will get plenty more.
I have a similar issue here. I had a long scratch (6-8") that I wet sanded and polished down. The area I am showing here is about 1". I have removed the scratch, but It also looks like too much clear coat.

Can you give me an idea of what is going on here?
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      03-30-2017, 01:58 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmwilson125 View Post
I have a similar issue here. I had a long scratch (6-8") that I wet sanded and polished down. The area I am showing here is about 1". I have removed the scratch, but It also looks like too much clear coat.

Can you give me an idea of what is going on here?
That is why I take mine to a pro. No trial and error and it is done right. It doesn't cost that much anyway.
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      03-30-2017, 02:55 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayscott
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmwilson125 View Post
I have a similar issue here. I had a long scratch (6-8") that I wet sanded and polished down. The area I am showing here is about 1". I have removed the scratch, but It also looks like too much clear coat.

Can you give me an idea of what is going on here?
That is why I take mine to a pro. No trial and error and it is done right. It doesn't cost that much anyway.
Most times unless you have materials on hand it costs about the same maybe a 10-20% premium to have a pro do it.

I do keep Dr. Color chip on hand in case I get a stone chip or mark on front lip or something, but beyond that get professional help.
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      03-30-2017, 04:42 PM   #26
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That is why I take mine to a pro. No trial and error and it is done right. It doesn't cost that much anyway.
It actually looks a ton better than it did before. I'm going to try to touch it up with clear coat when the weather improves though.
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      03-31-2017, 07:41 AM   #27
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you have sanded into the base, I would get someone to airbrush some clear on w reducer, or you could lay some of the dr color chip on it (basically over reduced single stage paint). If it looks normal when wet the clear should be sufficient.

do not feel to bad there are only about 2.5-3 mils of paint, sealer, primer and ecoat on the car, thats about the thickness of a sandwich bag.

A guy blew his brake line on track in front of me, that fluid ate the paint off a lot of spots on my car, can't be touched up.
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      03-31-2017, 07:47 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pparana View Post
you have sanded into the base, I would get someone to airbrush some clear on w reducer, or you could lay some of the dr color chip on it (basically over reduced single stage paint). If it looks normal when wet the clear should be sufficient.
Thanks do you work in a paint shop? You seem to have such a vast knowledge of cars in general. It doesn't not look much better when wet. I was thinking about doing a clear coat wet sanding polishing and calling it a day.

In my eyes it's a car and it's meant to be driven. It will get scratches, and I'll do my best to maintain it, but I'd rather put a couple hundred elsewhere like a performance upgrade.
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      03-31-2017, 08:08 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmwilson125 View Post
Thanks do you work in a paint shop? You seem to have such a vast knowledge of cars in general. It doesn't not look much better when wet. I was thinking about doing a clear coat wet sanding polishing and calling it a day.

In my eyes it's a car and it's meant to be driven. It will get scratches, and I'll do my best to maintain it, but I'd rather put a couple hundred elsewhere like a performance upgrade.
there is really not enough clear on these cars to wet sand much at all, 1500, a few passes is about it. Anymore and there won't be enough uv protection.


not a commercial paint shop, we restore static displays for museums ( planes, tanks, missiles, ext).
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      03-31-2017, 08:50 AM   #30
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It feels like we are beating a dead horse here. For Christs sake if you don't know what you are doing and it does take it to a pro. People pay close to 50K for this car and then whine when it gets a boo boo. Whats a couple hundred bucks over going through the eternal hand wringing I am seeing here. My Jeep wrangler trail buddys would be laughing their ass off at this. Touch up paint? what is that.

Last edited by Rayscott; 03-31-2017 at 09:03 AM.. Reason: bad content
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      03-31-2017, 09:40 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayscott View Post
It feels like we are beating a dead horse here. For Christs sake if you don't know what you are doing and it does take it to a pro. People pay close to 50K for this car and then whine when it gets a boo boo. Whats a couple hundred bucks over going through the eternal hand wringing I am seeing here. My Jeep wrangler trail buddys would be laughing their ass off at this. Touch up paint? what is that.
Well there's 2 types of people here. People who don't mind spending a couple hundred bucks to have it redone any other people who like to diy, learn and save money.

Personally I don't care if it's perfect. I was just asking for some advice from an experienced member of there is anything I can do to make it better, or if I should just leave it alone.
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      03-31-2017, 10:21 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmwilson125 View Post
Well there's 2 types of people here. People who don't mind spending a couple hundred bucks to have it redone any other people who like to diy, learn and save money.

Personally I don't care if it's perfect. I was just asking for some advice from an experienced member of there is anything I can do to make it better, or if I should just leave it alone.
review these videos



you can always practice on a junk panel.

I think I'd leave it alone until you've fixed a scratch somewhere else and feel your capable enough to get perfect results on your BMW.
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      03-31-2017, 10:31 AM   #33
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Putting clear coat on can be a real bitch. I repainted part of my lower bumper on a 2007 335 convertible and after a year the clear coat turned light brown, did it again and same results a year later. Had a hard time matching the clear coat on a 2007 X3 bumper I was turning in on a lease also. I sometimes wonder if just leaving the clear coat off the scratch or area is better. Sounds easy and even following good instructions you have to have the right humidity, do it in light layers yada yada yada.
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      03-31-2017, 10:47 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucky13 View Post
Putting clear coat on can be a real bitch. I repainted part of my lower bumper on a 2007 335 convertible and after a year the clear coat turned light brown, did it again and same results a year later. Had a hard time matching the clear coat on a 2007 X3 bumper I was turning in on a lease also. I sometimes wonder if just leaving the clear coat off the scratch or area is better. Sounds easy and even following good instructions you have to have the right humidity, do it in light layers yada yada yada.
yeah, the guy from the video above even states in another video that a high quality body shop and its associated fees is the best recourse for high quality results
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      03-31-2017, 11:27 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by B58togo View Post
That's the bumper guys. There's no metal in the bumper. You can probably get that sanded, sprayed and blended for a couple hundred bucks. Personally, I'd just get some touch up and fill it in myself. It wouldn't be noticeable unless you were really looking for it.
I have to agree. I'm pretty anal about keeping my cars perfect, but stuff happens. Based on where it's located (I actually couldn't see it in the first photo). I'd do a touch up with some BMW paint and let it go.

Use as little paint as possible and don't try and get it perfect, you won't, and will likely make a bigger mess than if you just left the scratch there (been there, done that).

If it must be repaired professionally, check w/ your dealer and see what shop they use. Use them. Actually bumpers can be rather easily repaired w/ excellent results.
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      04-07-2017, 03:17 PM   #36
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Really doesn't look that bad. Give it a few weeks and reassess.

Last edited by redontheline; 09-22-2017 at 08:07 AM..
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      04-07-2017, 03:32 PM   #37
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View post on imgur.com

BEM..I might reach out to the shop you mentioned if it is not too far from Center City.
Both have multiple locations, Cavallo Drexel Hill probably your best bet. Keenan they have a ton check their website.

To be clear neither does crap work, quite the opposite. Keenan is very good and Cavallo is great.
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      04-08-2017, 09:06 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmwilson125 View Post
Well there's 2 types of people here. People who don't mind spending a couple hundred bucks to have it redone any other people who like to diy, learn and save money.

Personally I don't care if it's perfect. I was just asking for some advice from an experienced member of there is anything I can do to make it better, or if I should just leave it alone.
Unfortunately, those that want or like to be DIY'ers, are faced w/ taking a crash course when damage happens to their car. I for one, hate to have damage on my car and want to get it fixed ASAP. For a DIY person, this can be a disastrous situation.

As mentioned before, it would be wise to practice on a piece of scrap until you are happy w/ your ability and the end result (or finally give up and leave the scratch alone or take it to a body shop). Starting on your car isn't likely to end with a good result unless you are extremely talented or blessed with good luck. I'd suggest going to Walmart and buy a 1/24 scale diecast and scratch it. Then try repairing it to your satisfaction. In the end you may find that the scratch, left alone looks better than a DIY repair.

There is always the possibility that you may have a talent for this type of repair and investing in a airbrush and some other body repair supplies may be worth pursuing. Could even be the start of a small cottage business for yourself.

Even the businesses that advertise minor body repairs at your home do not yield perfect results. I know, I've used one once. But, it is an inexpensive option that you can observe and ask questions. The fix will look better than the scratch and may provide you the expertise to do the next one yourself.

I have come to admire all the professional tradesman for their craft. It may look easy, but it's not (to the average Joe). Generally it takes years of experience and the right equipment to get a perfect result (which is what we all want in the end).

Last edited by USA-RET; 04-08-2017 at 09:13 AM..
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      04-17-2017, 02:52 AM   #39
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I recently got the BMW touch up kit for my alpine white 228i. I got the kit becuase of a few chips/sratches where the black plastic under the paint is showing and its a stark contrast to the white. I figured touching up those spots would make them less noticeable even if my work isn't the best.

I came here looking for tips but now i'm questioning even trying to do it.
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      04-17-2017, 09:23 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rdcoast228i View Post
I recently got the BMW touch up kit for my alpine white 228i. I got the kit becuase of a few chips/sratches where the black plastic under the paint is showing and its a stark contrast to the white. I figured touching up those spots would make them less noticeable even if my work isn't the best.

I came here looking for tips but now i'm questioning even trying to do it.
Take a look at Dr. Colorchip for your car. One of the demo videos is on a white car and the results look way better than the road rash. I'd try that product if it were me, as it appears it won't make a mess like a touch up paint can.

https://www.drcolorchip.com/
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      04-17-2017, 11:55 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by USA-RET View Post
Take a look at Dr. Colorchip for your car. One of the demo videos is on a white car and the results look way better than the road rash. I'd try that product if it were me, as it appears it won't make a mess like a touch up paint can.

https://www.drcolorchip.com/
I've watched a few videos about it over the last few days and it looks like the way to go. Wish I would have seen this before I ordered the BMW kit.

I ordered the Dr. Colorchip kit tonight. It will take a week or so to get the kit... I will try to get some before and after pics and post them.
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      04-18-2017, 10:33 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rdcoast228i View Post
I've watched a few videos about it over the last few days and it looks like the way to go. Wish I would have seen this before I ordered the BMW kit.

I ordered the Dr. Colorchip kit tonight. It will take a week or so to get the kit... I will try to get some before and after pics and post them.
Good deal. Hope it works for you as advertised. Guessing it will, at a minimum blend the rash back to the car color.

Yes, please post the before and after pics.

I know plenty of guys on the Corvette forum that used it to good effect.
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      05-26-2017, 09:54 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by USA-RET View Post
Good deal. Hope it works for you as advertised. Guessing it will, at a minimum blend the rash back to the car color.

Yes, please post the before and after pics.

I know plenty of guys on the Corvette forum that used it to good effect.
I haven't forgot about posting pics, I just haven't done it yet.

Time, and mostly weather have not given me a chance to do it yet.
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      05-26-2017, 06:51 PM   #44
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I've used the autostickers previously on metallic colours where I can't get the touch up paint to match on small scratches. In some instances I used them as a temporary measure until I had a proper repair done, in others they remained permanent if it was in a location that was not so visible. The quality and paint match of the brand I used were very good and they come in different sizes to suit the scratch.
For someone like me who does not possess the skill to do paintwork as a DIYer this was a good option.
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