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      05-10-2021, 07:54 PM   #67
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A glazed pad looks more like this:
Name:  glazed pad.jpg
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You can see the large shiny patches on it. I seriously abused these pads, braking way too hard on a track with very heavy brake zones. I actually used them for another weekend after trashing them, mainly because of pandemic year schedules and budget. They still had 9mm of pad on them, so not totally gone.

They probably were down 20% of braking capability from new, but I could still easily ABS lock my RS4's if I wanted to, and they worked well enough I set personal best times at the track.

I got a set of PFC08 for this summer (can't wait to try them!). I've been curious to see how you did with the PFC11 in the front. Considered that, but decided to go 08 all around, based on several people in my club using them, and the supposedly shorter wear time on the PFC11.
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      05-11-2021, 09:33 AM   #68
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You’re probably going to really like them. I read that the 08’s can be a little scary with lack of initial bite, but this could just be until they’re heated up. People run them in enduro races so they’re obviously up to the task. If you run into the noise issue, (and I mean, unbearably loud), try the solution I mentioned in my last post. It serious cured it completely. The 08’s were the louder of the pair, btw.

This is the video, for reference. Different pads but I’m guessing they are similar compounds and respond to the treatment the same way.

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      05-11-2021, 05:12 PM   #69
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Hey Peanu, were you at WGI on the 3-4th w/ SCDA?
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      05-11-2021, 05:59 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by Maynard View Post
Hey Peanu, were you at WGI on the 3-4th w/ SCDA?
Wasn’t me!

Weekend of the 24th with NASA only. Will be at NJMP on the 22nd this month also with NASA.
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      05-11-2021, 06:28 PM   #71
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The all seasons are in rough shape after just a few sessions but it was a good learning experience to feel the difference in behavior vs the RS4's. The hotter these things got, the more drift-happy and understeery the car became.
I think one COM TT hotshoe put it best: "If you're not understeering at Palmer, you're not going fast enough!"
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      05-11-2021, 10:59 PM   #72
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Today I ordered Millway street camber plates with an adjustability of up to -2.5 degrees and powerflex black series bushings for LCA’s and TA’s. — Just not ready to part with my EDC dampers yet but can’t afford to keep destroying my tires in the meantime so this is the compromise.

What’s the word on sway bar bushings? Worth it?
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      05-12-2021, 07:54 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeanuKeeyes View Post
Today I ordered Millway street camber plates with an adjustability of up to -2.5 degrees and powerflex black series bushings for LCA’s and TA’s. — Just not ready to part with my EDC dampers yet but can’t afford to keep destroying my tires in the meantime so this is the compromise.

What’s the word on sway bar bushings? Worth it?
Front camber will certainly pay big dividends, ones that you'll notice immediately.

I don't have any familiarity with swaybar bushings for our cars.

After TC Kline did my initial modifications, I asked him what he would recommend next if I wanted additional front-end grip. He said the H&R front swaybar with stock end links (H&R part no. 70878-2; ECS part no. 2986299; 28mm bar with two holes of adjustment, set to 'soft'). I went ahead and had it put in for $840 installed (bar - $400, labor - $385, tax - $55). That produced a difference that was noticeable, but at that price it wasn't a good buy for me. I just wasn't pushing that hard on the track. For TTs, though, I'd put it in. The bar produced no additional NVH on the street.
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      05-14-2021, 09:15 AM   #74
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Interesting. So it sounds like I should hold off on that. *If* I end up doing TT, it would be next year at the earliest so maybe I will consider it over winter... if I don’t break the bank on other modifications first.

And on another note:
I have to say, I’m intrigued by the 2022 BRZ. The first gen was not streetable as it was dangerously underpowered for a place like CT lol. I wonder if there are any other 228i owners, in particular, feeling a similar interest in giving the next gen BRZ a test drive? — Either way, it’s more of a curiosity than an actual prospect for me, I think.
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      05-14-2021, 01:16 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggggbmw View Post
It was interesting watching the viewpoint of the video with a helmet mounted camera, and how much you tilt your head going through corners. I find myself doing that too, and always wonder if it's a bad habit or not. I do try to keep my head more even, and it might make a tiny difference. Probably just because I'm concentrating on looking further around the corner. But then I find myself tilting my head even more on corners where the car is just not coming around. As if tilting my helmet over will alter the weight distribution and help it corner better.

Be curious what the more experienced track rats would say.
So having done another track day and seeing the footage, I am definitely tilting my head a lot, despite having it mounted on an angle. Like a lot! lol — this is something my buddy also commented on today and I was like, yeah I should work on that. So next onboard I will make a solid effort to pay attention and I may remount the camera so that it’s more level to start with.
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      05-21-2021, 08:55 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeanuKeeyes View Post
I did this on the main (isn't) straight at Palmer on Saturday. Car felt like it was skipping as my all-seasons couldn't keep up, well into the ABS zone at times -- these brakes feel awesome now.

I've been following Misha's channel from the Nurburgring, and earlier this season their rental M2 had a similar Brake squeal using Endless pads. The solution was to sand the rotors and spray water onto the surface of the pad material and then rub the pads together and then wipe the faces of residue. It solved it 100% for them. So I gave that a shot, skipping the rotor sanding part since I'm swapping pads frequently now. This worked though! both cold and hot, the brakes were well mannered.

The all seasons are in rough shape after just a few sessions but it was a good learning experience to feel the difference in behavior vs the RS4's. The hotter these things got, the more drift-happy and understeery the car became.

I drove the car 4 hours to Maine after the event in comfort mode/cruise control on and was reminded how incredible this thing rides on long trips. It makes more sense for me to just swap in the M4 LCA’s for now to help with tire wear so I can continue to enjoy the cars multiple personalities a little longer before swapping to coilovers.

Edit: LCA upgrade is a no go with my wheel/tire setups. Rubbing issues galore from what I’ve now read up on with my offsets and tire widths. — Millway Camber plates maybe?

Are you sure? I have M3 LCAs and run a 255/40/18 tire and ARC-8 18x8.5 ET35 square setup on my F30 335i RWD.

Also, I have the following suspension/handling modifications:

- M Performance LSD
- M Performance Suspension Kit
- OEM camber correction wheel hubs (additional 0.5 negative camber)
- F80 LCAs
- Turner Motorsports Solid Rear Subframe Bushings

Without camber plates, I'm at about -2.0 to -2.2 camber at the front. I feel like I really need -2.5 to -3.5 depending on the track to mitigate the outer edge wear.
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      05-21-2021, 09:20 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
Are you sure? I have M3 LCAs and run a 255/40/18 tire and ARC-8 18x8.5 ET35 square setup on my F30 335i RWD.
There is a lot more room on an F30 than an F22 for that setup to fit, not going to work without major mods on an F22.
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      05-21-2021, 10:04 AM   #78
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Yeah, there have been a few posts about it here with our car. Even a 235/40/18 was rubbing for one person after doing the LCA swap — It seems crazy but I’m not willing to take the chance and try it after reading that. The plates will give me a pretty decent range to work with.

The Millway street camber plates will get our cars to -2.5 at its maximum setting, so I’m hopeful this will be enough.
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      09-08-2021, 10:50 PM   #79
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Today was a fork in the road. My car accident last month has cost the insurance company $14k and still requires parts to arrive from Germany. I will be picking it up (maybe) by next week.

In this time away from the car and from the track, I’ve decided to change it up a bit. Having spent a few events riding shotgun in Miatas of various setups driven by fantastic drivers, I am convinced that it’s the option that makes the most sense for me going forward. The connection to the road is insane and I’m afraid the 228i just has never conveyed a similar level of excitement. It’s competent and poised but just not really that thrilling. Don’t get me wrong, I absolutely love the thing and know I haven’t come close to exploring it’s limits, but it’s time for a more tried and true formula and I can’t wait to see how this Miata feels around a circuit.

THIS… is a 1996 NA Miata hardtop, 1.8L, swapped 6 speed / 3.63 Torsen LSD with Koni yellow adjustable suspension and a Koyo radiator. Stock power, stock exhaust with the exception of a high flow cat by Flyin Miata. And it’s perfect.
I’ve never seen a Miata like this before. It is completely rust free. The owner has a 5” binder of history and was planning to do a K-swap but needed to downsize the fleet. - my only slight gripe is that the 6 speed / final drive ratio makes it feel even slower without the bigger engine swapped in, but hey, it’s a Miata.

The plan for this car is basically roll bar, harness, tires, pads, bushings, done. Eventually some coilovers but it’s hard to imagine this will ever become a full race car / specMiata build. Like the 228i, this is more of a clubsport type. I’m gonna drive the crap out of it though so we’ll see what happens…
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      09-09-2021, 06:39 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeanuKeeyes View Post
THIS… is a 1996 NA Miata hardtop ...
Oh noes, we lost another one to the Miata cult! :-P
Just kidding, seems like a nice well-kept NA. I'm sure you'll enjoy the snot out of it. Keep us posted on your track adventures, eh? That means you'll sell the 2er, after all this work repairing it?

Coincidentally, I just did a weekend constantly switching between spec miata races and TT in my M240, and decided to take the opposite fork and race the 2er next season. To each their own.
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      09-10-2021, 12:23 AM   #81
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Oh noes, we lost another one to the Miata cult! :-P
Just kidding, seems like a nice well-kept NA. I'm sure you'll enjoy the snot out of it. Keep us posted on your track adventures, eh? That means you'll sell the 2er, after all this work repairing it?

Coincidentally, I just did a weekend constantly switching between spec miata races and TT in my M240, and decided to take the opposite fork and race the 2er next season. To each their own.
Haha yeah, it’s funny that this long thread ends with a Miata as “the answer,” but as much as I love to defend the 4-popper N20, the 240’s B58 just ain’t comparable, and I can understand your decision, especially considering the other mods you’ve done to the suspension.

I’m not willing to take the 228i to the level necessary to get that same feeling. It’s a good engine, the N20, and a great chassis. I will enjoy *both* cars on the street and on the track for years to come.

So no.. not selling. The 228i is still going to see the track and I’ll still drive it into the ground as a daily. I ordered the 13lb wheels, 205/50/15 - 200 tw Dunlop tires and getting ready to start adapting to spec Miata restrictions. If I ever get to racing, I will likely buy a fully built spec Miata. This red NA will get me familiar with the chassis though, and the Dunlop tires mounted and balanced from Tire Rack ran me $1,000 — Already appreciating the price differences for parts compared with the 2 series.

So a year and 4 pages later… E36 vs 228i beginner track car? …….. Nah, Miata.
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      09-20-2021, 08:22 PM   #82
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If I had the room (and spousal approval) for two cars, I would really consider this also. The 2 is an awesome daily, and surprisingly competent at the track with minimal updates. But it will never be a true light weight pure handling sports car like a Miata. Also, the incredible depth and breadth of Miata track parts, and lower costs of a smaller/lighter car make it really attractive for track use.

Sadly, I'll just have to live with my 'compromise' car, and keep smiling like a madman as I kick it's heavy butt around the track. And then enjoy the comfy seats on the long ride home.
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      09-21-2021, 02:33 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggggbmw View Post
If I had the room (and spousal approval) for two cars, I would really consider this also. The 2 is an awesome daily, and surprisingly competent at the track with minimal updates. But it will never be a true light weight pure handling sports car like a Miata. Also, the incredible depth and breadth of Miata track parts, and lower costs of a smaller/lighter car make it really attractive for track use.
An added feature of the Miata's extremely well-developed aftermarket is that you can turn one into a little or much faster car if you choose to do so. That will make it relatively less reliable, but even just a little more power in a car that light is going to result in noticeably faster lap times.
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      10-04-2021, 09:21 AM   #84
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The simplicity of the Miata has halted my lusting for a BMW M car of old for track duty. My dad, who is in his 80’s, has been able to help with practically all the service items so far and we’re having a great time. It’s serving as his weekend cruiser for the time being. Hoping the roll-bar arrives in time to install before the end of the season. Meanwhile, heading back to the track with the 228i in two weeks. Cheers
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      10-04-2021, 10:06 AM   #85
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Quote:
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The simplicity of the Miata has halted my lusting for a BMW M car of old for track duty.
That won't convince those who think it's about going fast down the straights, but it's a key reason why Miatas are as popular as they are for track duty.

Once you're running it on the track, be sure to let us know your thoughts about it compared to your 228i.
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      10-04-2021, 04:39 PM   #86
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good decision. I've been tracking my 230i for the last couple of years and it has gotten to the point where the upgrades that I'd like to make are more expensive than buying a different car. I went with an e46 330Ci. Bought it from Salvage and have it running (almost great) and have all the parts for a complete suspension upgrade. I don't mind that the paint isn't perfect and the seats have some tears I had to glue on patches, etc whereas this would have bothered me with my 230i.
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      10-04-2021, 04:52 PM   #87
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good decision. I've been tracking my 230i for the last couple of years and it has gotten to the point where the upgrades that I'd like to make are more expensive than buying a different car. I went with an e46 330Ci. Bought it from Salvage and have it running (almost great) and have all the parts for a complete suspension upgrade. I don't mind that the paint isn't perfect and the seats have some tears I had to glue on patches, etc whereas this would have bothered me with my 230i.
Given how cheaply they can be picked up, I think the E46 is an excellent choice for a BMW track build.

The 330Ci is a typical base car for a Spec E46 build, so there's a full range of upgrade parts available. Owners can easily do a mild upgrade or build an all-out Spec E46 race car. Bimmerworld has specialized in those parts for quite a while now: https://www.bimmerworld.com/ssearch.html?query=Spec+E46.
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      03-24-2022, 01:17 PM   #88
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Crashed my Miata already!

Yeaaaah I know… It’s not a Miata forum but I wanted to keep a few of you (you know who you are), in the loop. Already in my 3rd year of DE’s, crazy.

Lime Rock last weekend was a wash out — pouring rain, with the track having not seen any action since last fall. In addition, it was my first track day with the Miata after working on it over the winter getting it ready. Running RT660’s with a Koni suspension and a decent spec-Miata inspired alignment. Kirkey race seat, harness, Hans. So it’s a step more race car than the 2 series but still pretty much stock otherwise.

Long story short, was held up in traffic so I pitted and got a gap, went back out and got a good rhythm going. Next thing I knew I was coming into turn 6 pretty hot and I buried my foot into the brakes and was instantly punished for forgetting a very important Miata detail: No ABS. — locked up, hydroplaned about 200 feet or whatever and very lightly destroyed the driver fender against the barrier. Oops! Hammered it out at the paddock to get back the wheel clearance and put in a few more sessions. Typical Miata owner stuff lol.

So what’s the damage? $100 for a new fender with shipping and my buddy down the road will do a 2 stage paint job on it for $150. Gotta love Miata’s.

Headed back to Lime Rock soon with NASA and I’ll be bringing out the 2 series again by mid summer for Club Motorsports.

The RS4’s are soon to be retired. Any new tire recommendations?

Edit: added photo of post-new fender install $250 all-in
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