01-20-2018, 08:53 AM | #45 | |
Lieutenant
347
Rep 443
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-19-2018, 11:04 AM | #46 |
First Lieutenant
93
Rep 300
Posts |
Mine still free of clicking since left wheel bearing in August. I thought it came back on the right for a bit but it went away again.
I also get scrub and clunks when backing off my driveway on a cold morning. I put it down to cold PSS tires jumping on the concrete. Both front tires now completely smooth on the outer 2". Still plenty of groove in the middle, though. Dinan springs and A/S3's in the spring. |
Appreciate
0
|
09-09-2020, 12:27 PM | #48 |
Lieutenant Colonel
1407
Rep 1,640
Posts |
bringing this thread back to life!
so as per the last poster, is there any real issue with not having the noise looked at? if it simply a matter of having the wheels cleaned every week, I'd rather just do that.... |
Appreciate
0
|
10-16-2020, 08:29 PM | #50 |
Enlisted Member
36
Rep 31
Posts |
I have the same clicking noise after switching the pads out to carbon ceramic. I've inspected it and driven 10k miles since the swap- it really does just seem like an annoyance vs something actually wrong with the car.
|
Appreciate
0
|
12-10-2020, 10:54 AM | #51 |
Second Lieutenant
126
Rep 211
Posts |
Hello. Is this the same clicking / ticking sound u guys are hearing? If so, I will try those friction ring. Thanks!
https://youtube.com/shorts/1bm22gLtrFQ |
Appreciate
0
|
12-10-2020, 07:19 PM | #52 |
Private
11
Rep 72
Posts |
Kay-os, I had that exact sound and the friction rings solved it.
https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show...9#post26540479 |
Appreciate
0
|
12-11-2020, 05:30 AM | #53 | |
Second Lieutenant
126
Rep 211
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
01-21-2021, 07:32 AM | #54 |
Second Lieutenant
126
Rep 211
Posts |
So I brought the friction ring to the garage. They are certain the sound comes from between the outer brake disc and the wheel, instead of between the inner brake disc and wheel bearing flange. So they installed the friction plate between the outer brake disc and the wheel and the sound has dissappeared! Very strange but there's no more annoying ticking noise so I'm happy.
__________________
2014 BMW M235i auto. JB4 & EWG connector + BMS BEF (EWG Race 10 map) + BMS WMI kit (dual BM5 nozzles, 80% meth mix, Boost additive 50, Scaling 60, min flow boost 6.5psi), 98 RON/93 oct pump gas, intake, ER CP, Forge BOV, Wagner Evo II competition intercooler, ER kitty-less DP, eisenmann exhaust, quaife LSD
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-05-2021, 11:25 AM | #55 |
Major
717
Rep 1,448
Posts |
Sorry to revive a pretty old thread but I recently came up against this on my F32 with newly installed B16's.
It took around a month or so for the noise to first appear, what I did find though was after jacking the car up the noise would always settle, it made me believe that it was definitely a noise after preload from more stress on oem hardware. I'm about to order one of the friction plates to try out, however I thought it was worth sharing that I also diagnosed that some of the sound was coming from the pinch bolt. After a little research it seems Tommy L Garage also thinks this I posted about it in a UK facebook group and a member/mechanic replied back that the pinch bolt is 100% worth replacing, along with a good clean around the joint between the shock and the hub. From his experience he has found the friction plates do nothing and 90% of the time the collar needs a good clean and a new pinch bolt.
__________________
2015 435i - 401whp
Scorpion catless dp, VRSF 6.5" HD FMIC, MST V2 inlet, NGK 97506, MHD Stage 2+ 102, xHP Stage 3, M Performance Exhaust (modified for valved straight thru) |
Appreciate
0
|
09-15-2021, 06:05 PM | #56 | |
Major
717
Rep 1,448
Posts |
Quote:
You say you applied the friction rings to the outer disc, are you talking about actually placing this in-between where the wheel actually touches the disc?! From the TSB BMW recommends placing them behind the discs where they touch the hub
__________________
2015 435i - 401whp
Scorpion catless dp, VRSF 6.5" HD FMIC, MST V2 inlet, NGK 97506, MHD Stage 2+ 102, xHP Stage 3, M Performance Exhaust (modified for valved straight thru) |
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-17-2021, 10:25 AM | #57 | |
Second Lieutenant
126
Rep 211
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
1
fortythirtyfive717.00 |
09-17-2021, 07:11 PM | #58 | |
Major
717
Rep 1,448
Posts |
Quote:
When I went to break the tension on the wheel nuts it clicked! So now I'm wondering if it is related to the wheel nuts, they're definitely not too long but I suppose it could also be me creating this so called "microscopic disc movement" when putting pressure on the bolts. The noise has once again gone now since reinstalling the wheel, but I can only imagine it will be back soon
__________________
2015 435i - 401whp
Scorpion catless dp, VRSF 6.5" HD FMIC, MST V2 inlet, NGK 97506, MHD Stage 2+ 102, xHP Stage 3, M Performance Exhaust (modified for valved straight thru) |
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-17-2021, 07:30 PM | #59 | |
Car Geek
4242
Rep 3,892
Posts |
Quote:
The hubcentric flange on some wheel spacers has a chamfer that is larger than the chamfer on the wheel, this causes the wheel to not sit flat on the spacer, putting excess force on the wheel bolts (or in the case of the M2, the stud conversion kit). Eventually the bolts or studs will fail from cyclic fatigue loading as the wheel moves about a very small amount on each rotation. Here is a method from Bimmerworld to check if you have a problem, besides looking at both the hub chamfer and spacer chamfer for signs of fretting (small movements that will produce abrasion marks): If this is the problem, the spacers should be replaced with ones that don't have the problematic chamfer and all wheel bolts that have been used with the spacer should be replaced too, due to unknown loading conditions that may have weakened them. |
|
Appreciate
1
dradernh4827.50 |
09-17-2021, 08:05 PM | #60 | |
Brigadier General
4828
Rep 3,611
Posts |
Quote:
There are times when seemingly simple modifications are in fact much more complicated that we might realize or imagine.
__________________
2017 M240i: 25.9K, 28.9 mpg, MT, Sunroof Delete, 3,432#, EB, Leather, Driving Assistance Package, Heated Front Seats | Sold: E12 530i, E24 M635CSi, E39 520i, E30 325is, E36 M3 (2)
TC Kline Coilovers; H&R Front Bar; Wavetrac; Al Subframe Bushings; 18X9/9½ ARC-8s; 255/35-18 PS4S (4); Dinan Elite V2 & CAI; MPerf Orange BBK; Schroth Quick Fit Pro; Full PPF |
|
09-23-2021, 11:24 AM | #61 | |
Major
717
Rep 1,448
Posts |
Quote:
In total I have now tried fitting new wheel bolts, new pinch bolt (greased), peeled back the pinch bolt collar, fitted friction plates behind the brake disc (between the hub) and also between the brake disc and wheel and still no avail. The noise is actually super loud this time and is definitely turning heads on the street lol. No garages seem to be able to put their finger on it and when they feel they've fixed it.. it comes back within a day or two which is most likely due to the wheel being lifted in the air ☹️ so at this point I'm avoiding driving the car as it's kind of embarrassing to hear
__________________
2015 435i - 401whp
Scorpion catless dp, VRSF 6.5" HD FMIC, MST V2 inlet, NGK 97506, MHD Stage 2+ 102, xHP Stage 3, M Performance Exhaust (modified for valved straight thru) |
|
Appreciate
0
|
11-06-2023, 12:55 PM | #62 | |
Colonel
145
Rep 369
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
11-07-2023, 11:46 AM | #63 |
Colonel
3549
Rep 2,011
Posts |
My original rotors ticked loudly under heavy cornering, mostly noticeable on sweeping off ramps. The ticking disappeared after replacing the worn rotors with the same 2 piece from Zimmermann.
No friction disk applied. |
Appreciate
0
|
11-08-2023, 12:04 PM | #64 |
Major
717
Rep 1,448
Posts |
Wheel bearings may be worth a shot at replacing especially if they're of an age or high mileage.
I believe I finally figured out where the micro-slippage is happening, in-between the hub and wheel bearing a small amount of corrosion is able to build up which begins to ruin the trueness of how flat the two mating surfaces are. Funnily enough BMW have now released a "bearing repair kit" 83192298825. This quite literally consists of a sanding pad to remove the corrosion and a sealant adhesive, I guess it acts like a barrier glue to prevent anything from getting in there again. If you consider doing this remember to buy new bearing bolts, they are all torque to yield meaning one time use. As for the friction discs make sure you sand/key the two mating surfaces before installing these, I hear a lot of people say that they don't work but just throw them on with no prep, they're teflon discs designed to stop microscopic slippage and therefore need a clean and prepped surface to grab onto.
__________________
2015 435i - 401whp
Scorpion catless dp, VRSF 6.5" HD FMIC, MST V2 inlet, NGK 97506, MHD Stage 2+ 102, xHP Stage 3, M Performance Exhaust (modified for valved straight thru) |
Appreciate
1
dradernh4827.50 |
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|