08-23-2018, 01:17 PM | #1 |
Lieutenant
221
Rep 445
Posts |
Brake rotor replacement opinions
Hey everyone,
Looking for a bit of input for some replacement rotors. I can get some powerstop drilled slotted for pretty cheap on all 4 corners or go with some OEM replacements for probably just the front 2(I need to measure the other 3). I of course think slotted and drilled looks better, but after reading they seem to be prone to making more noise (and obviously cracks, but I don't do any hard driving really) Does anyone have any experience going from blanks to drilled/slotted on this platform or period? If I go blanks I would stay OEM with 2 piece rotors, if not I would go full cast. Little Backstory below; I have had an issue with my drivers front wheel clicking and a persistent squeal at low speed that worsens when cold and/or wet, when I purchased the car CPO they put brand new OEM pads on and I didn't have an issue for about 4 months then the squeal started. I have since replaced the OEM pads due to excessive brake dust with some powerstop ceramics that I really like, however after bedding the noise still persists. When I would re-bed the noises would come back after a day or two. I noticed that the pad wasn't making full contact and I think I had a glazing/pad transfer issue, I learned the hard way that you have to be a bit hard on the pedal to avoid that. I took the rotor off which was an absolute pain in the ass because the rotor screw was stripped and the metal was not as soft as I expected when drilling it out. I got that rotor turned and to my surprise it was at like 28.7mm and after cutting just a tiny bit it is close to min thickness (28.4mm iirc) so I am looking to replace. I do notice today that the pad is making even contact across the rotor and I have not heard any noises *YET*. Since my car has less than 25k miles and that rotor screw was stripped I assume it had already cut, because if not that seems to be an obscene amount of wear on the rotor. Anybody else have the same kind of issues? Sorry about the long winded post lol |
08-23-2018, 09:40 PM | #3 |
Major
526
Rep 1,078
Posts |
Got a link to the powerstop ones you are referring to? I'm thinking of replacing mine soon too.
__________________
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-24-2018, 07:14 AM | #4 | |
Lieutenant
221
Rep 445
Posts |
Quote:
The top two in the "performance" section, price is per rotor. |
|
Appreciate
1
mikeyymonster526.00 |
08-24-2018, 07:19 AM | #5 |
Lieutenant
221
Rep 445
Posts |
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-24-2018, 02:02 PM | #6 |
Lieutenant
284
Rep 566
Posts |
I used to have plain, drilled and slotted StopTech rotors on a different car. Funny thing is the plain rotors worked best.
The squealing I had was always with mismatched pads (track & sport pads with street driving), never was an issue with the pads designed for the street, though (they used to make Street Performance kind, those were the best for the street). |
Appreciate
0
|
08-24-2018, 02:15 PM | #7 |
New Member
22
Rep 22
Posts |
I had powerstop rotors with Hawk pads on my last car (Acura RSX type S) for 5 plus years. The powerstop rotors stayed shinny (never got surface rust) and gave the car a more performance look. The stopping power was more linear and improved, but i think that was due to the Hawk pads. The powerstop rotors did make a slight "ticking" noise when pressing the brakes between 0 to 40 MPH. Sounded like a poker card attached to a bike wheel sound. I am planning to install the same setup on my M235i once I need brakes.
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-24-2018, 10:21 PM | #8 | |
Lieutenant
221
Rep 445
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-28-2018, 03:31 PM | #10 |
Lieutenant
221
Rep 445
Posts |
Another option I found, not a bad price. This is probably the closest thing to the OEM mperf rotors, although this one is one piece.
https://www.bimmerworld.com/Brakes/B...106797602.html |
Appreciate
0
|
08-29-2018, 06:16 AM | #11 | |
Private First Class
103
Rep 130
Posts |
Quote:
https://www.otto-zimmermann.de/en/oe.../material.html The quality of Zimmermann discs have been discussed in German Forums. General consensus is that they are ok to use instead of OEM. Issues with drilled rotors were noted but that's the usual drilled rotor issue I think. And not using them with aggressive pads was another recommendation. For the price not a bad choice it seems. I am looking at the Stoptech slotted rotors. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-29-2018, 07:05 PM | #12 |
Private First Class
48
Rep 158
Posts |
Just wanted to add a data point. Most of the OEM replacement options are 1-2 lbs heavier than the factory BMW rotors, since most are 1 piece cast. The factory ones have a welded hat I believe. Not significant, but something to keep in mind.
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-13-2019, 05:33 PM | #13 |
Lieutenant
230
Rep 555
Posts |
I will just throw this in here, I just ordered a set of Pilenga rotors from partsgeek:
https://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/br...bmw/m235i.html Seems Pilenga is the OEM manufacturer for the M performance rotors as it is (both 340mm and 370mm) I got my rotors a couple days back, and they look exactly like the BMW M performance ones, even the 2 piece aluminum hub. All for a fraction of the cost, I paid about 150ish for fronts each, and rears are 130 each.
__________________
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-16-2019, 01:33 PM | #14 |
Colonel
3848
Rep 2,873
Posts |
For track or very hard driving, plain rotors are best. On the street it likely won't ever be an issue, but if any make noise it will be the drilled or slotted (vs. plain). I can certainly see going with the cosmetic look, but wouldn't spend a lot for it. I don't think factory rotors have much meat on them these days, and with TCS working through the brakes you get a lot more wear than in the old days. the dealer 'resurfaced' my rears by about .001, but I'm sure if I was out of warranty they'd have told me these aren't serviceable and always need replacement (I think I was .0025 thicker than the limit before the resurface).
fcpEuro has pretty good prices, and a lifetime replacement, w/OEM and equivalent quality parts. I would strongly discourage using super-discount aftermarket brake parts. I would also encourage you to get your hubs (or the new rotor setup) checked on a machine to ensure the hubs are true - if there is a little wobble it can give you that clicking, as well as wearing oddly. This often produces pedal fluctuation once it wears the disc unevenly - if you were getting that, I'd definitely have things trued up (or mic the disc all around to see if it is uneven). I've heard you can also get this from uneven deposits behind the wheel or brake disc, as it only takes a little bit. |
Appreciate
0
|
05-21-2019, 04:55 PM | #15 |
Lieutenant
187
Rep 458
Posts |
Any 2 piece rotors available? Usually, are better than OEM and much lighter, also the added benefit of reduced sprung weight.
I remember I had these for my STI. https://www.girodisc.com/Girodisc-Fr...5I_p_6659.html |
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
|
|