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      04-21-2018, 10:16 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Dylan86 View Post
Looking good!!! Alignment specs look to be similar to what I'll be running, except for the rear toe, which I'll take back closer to factory spec (requires adjustable rear toe arms)..

Well done on the 9.5" wheels, I'm a bit jelly, lol. Are you running a spacer up front to clear the coil spring seat? Or another reason?

D
Yes, the spacer up front is to clear the springs and the spacers in rear is for fuel line. I don’t like having the fenders rolled but for me, the track performance is worth it. If you don’t want rolled, 9” all around would be fine.
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      04-23-2018, 05:05 PM   #24
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I decided to go with Apec ARC-8 in Anthracite.
Hankook RS4 265/35-18 all corners
Very impressive with the 265 square setup. Too bad they didn't have the Anthracite... I'd like to see how that color looks on a 240
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      04-23-2018, 09:10 PM   #25
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I kind of like the color of the calipers now! Looks different and has a cool(actually very hot) story behind it.
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      04-23-2018, 09:45 PM   #26
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nice build! subbing for updates
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      04-24-2018, 11:00 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Erebus View Post
Very impressive with the 265 square setup. Too bad they didn't have the Anthracite... I'd like to see how that color looks on a 240
The anthracite would look pretty similar to the BC Forged wheels I have. Having black isn't a huge deal since I plan on powder coating them Mexico Blue or Yas Marina Blue.

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Originally Posted by K8_M235i View Post
I kind of like the color of the calipers now! Looks different and has a cool(actually very hot) story behind it.
They are in an awkward stage right now, I don't dig the brown. But, I am excited to see what color they go to next! It seems like it should all be ok, the reason for the color change is because of the paint. The only sign of damage is the dust boots on the pistons disintegrating from the heat. But, repairing/replacing wouldn't do anything since they'll crumble again after a few sessions. Not having them isn't a big deal, the only thing is that brake flush and bleed will need to be performed more frequently. Since I already have that done once every few months, it shouldn't be a big deal.

I looked into getting a big brake kit but it looks like there are few options out there made for track duty. Most kits still have the rubber dust boot - the exception being Essex AP Racing and Stoptech Trophy R. The Essex calipers are ideal since they are a true racing caliper but they don't have any solutions for F series yet. If anybody reading this is in the NC area, they will offer a sizable discount to use your car for one day to measure and then another half day to test fit the prototype.

Coming up next week: Racetech 4009W seats, StudioRSR roll bar, Shroth harnesses, and maybe come brake ducts.

The purpose of this build is to do as little as possible to make the car as fast as possible. Racing and tracking is expensive enough with just consumables, maintenance, and repairs, the last thing we want to do is overspend on mods that don't add that much value to lap times. Once I am to the point where I am faster than the car, I will add more to it. The other aspect to keep in consideration is that I planning to compete and need to stay within certain class restrictions.
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      04-30-2018, 03:02 PM   #28
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I was out at the track this last weekend to run with the PCA and notice a few things we are going to need to address.

1. The front wheels running 9.5" 265 RS4 tires do rub on the inner fender liner once everything heats up and expands. The rub point is the front driver side toward the rear of the liner. Even with the fenders rolled, there is still a little rubbing. m235iR widebody kit is in the works. The kit will allow me to fit 10" et22 all the way around which means none of the wheels I have will work and I will have a couple sets of wheels to unload.

2. Hard bumps unsettle the car. It gets bouncy and the car get displaced. There is also a bit of bump steer. I'll have to get back out there and do some adjustments to the Ohlins settings to see if I can dial out the harshness/bumpiness.

3. Rotors are starting to crack. Temps coming off of the track with a cool down lap are around 700*. The OEM brakes have nice stopping power but they have a hard time keeping up during longer sessions. The plan is to put in the same brake cooling ducts as on the m235iR.


4. The stock seats are completely inadequate for track purposes. I am always sore all over after a long weekend of holding on for dear life. Good thing I have some Racetech Seats/harnesses and a roll bar from StudioRSR coming into the shop for install!

Here are some pictures a few weeks back at Eagle's Canyon Raceway just for fun.
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      04-30-2018, 07:51 PM   #29
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Looking good! The photographer caught some of the 2ers best angles, for sure.

Interested on the spring rate that Ohlins is using? If you have the info handy, if not don't worry too much. Do you feel it's damping related, or too soon to tell, still? The factory bushings are poo on these cars, but I doubt it would translate to that much negative feedback, even at the track..

Maybe there's a reason iND went with 50lb lighter springs on the KW CS's for their F22? I'm curious, now...
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      05-01-2018, 07:47 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Dylan86 View Post
Looking good! The photographer caught some of the 2ers best angles, for sure.

Interested on the spring rate that Ohlins is using? If you have the info handy, if not don't worry too much. Do you feel it's damping related, or too soon to tell, still? The factory bushings are poo on these cars, but I doubt it would translate to that much negative feedback, even at the track..

Maybe there's a reason iND went with 50lb lighter springs on the KW CS's for their F22? I'm curious, now...
The published spring rates for the Ohlins are:

Front: 60N/mm or 343lb/in
Rear: 160N/mm or 915lb/in

However, per their recommendation, we swapped out the rear springs for 120N/mm which is 686lb/in.

I can't tell you if it's damping related yet since I haven't gone out to test it out. I am hoping that it is so that it's a cheap fix. The bushings would account for the bump steer but not the issue of the car being unsettled over bumps. Unfortunately, I don't know a ton about how different suspension parts affect the car so I will have to turn to the shop for assistance. They are currently prepping some cars for a NASA national championship run so once they are done with that, I am going to see what their thoughts are. It may require a test/tune day out on the track so that the shop owner can drive the car. He is insanely fast and intuitive considering he only drives a handful of times a year.

All things considered, the car is still faster than I am at this point so I really don't need to rush to spend money only to make incremental improvements. I doubt these little things will drop my times quite like the wheels/tires were able to. But it would still be nice to figure if the solution is cheap/free.

As for the wheels, after some additional reflection, the rubbing isn't really a huge deal. It barely rubs on the front left fender over hard bumps and only rubs the inside on full lock turns. I've never had to go full lock on the track and I rarely go over bumps that would cause rubbing so for track wheels, the 9.5" all the way around is still ideal. That doesn't mean I don't want to go 10" all the way around with a true rotatable square setup! The only factor weighing against going full m235iR body kit and bigger wheels is that I'll have two sets of basically new wheels I will need to get rid of.
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      05-04-2018, 08:26 PM   #31
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Nice thread! Sounds like you're progressing along rather quickly. Glad to see you're spending more time at the tracks, and even better that you're relatively local to me so I can check out your set up one of these days.

Brembos are nicknamed Brownbos for a reason; All of their calipers are very quick to discolor. I baked the crap out of mine on my Z to the point where they not only discolored, but the paint bubbled/blistered.

What was your lap time at ECR? Are you datalogging at all, or have videos?
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      05-04-2018, 09:30 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capt_and View Post
I was out at the track this last weekend to run with the PCA and notice a few things we are going to need to address.

1. The front wheels running 9.5" 265 RS4 tires do rub on the inner fender liner once everything heats up and expands. The rub point is the front driver side toward the rear of the liner. Even with the fenders rolled, there is still a little rubbing. m235iR widebody kit is in the works. The kit will allow me to fit 10" et22 all the way around which means none of the wheels I have will work and I will have a couple sets of wheels to unload.

2. Hard bumps unsettle the car. It gets bouncy and the car get displaced. There is also a bit of bump steer. I'll have to get back out there and do some adjustments to the Ohlins settings to see if I can dial out the harshness/bumpiness.

3. Rotors are starting to crack. Temps coming off of the track with a cool down lap are around 700*. The OEM brakes have nice stopping power but they have a hard time keeping up during longer sessions. The plan is to put in the same brake cooling ducts as on the m235iR.


4. The stock seats are completely inadequate for track purposes. I am always sore all over after a long weekend of holding on for dear life. Good thing I have some Racetech Seats/harnesses and a roll bar from StudioRSR coming into Texas Track Works for install!
I think there is a one part that you could get that would solve all these issues ...

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      05-07-2018, 09:28 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by cxp213 View Post
Nice thread! Sounds like you're progressing along rather quickly. Glad to see you're spending more time at the tracks, and even better that you're relatively local to me so I can check out your set up one of these days.

Brembos are nicknamed Brownbos for a reason; All of their calipers are very quick to discolor. I baked the crap out of mine on my Z to the point where they not only discolored, but the paint bubbled/blistered.

What was your lap time at ECR? Are you datalogging at all, or have videos?
Very interesting about the Brembos. I had no idea and thought it was a BMW thing. Come to think of it, my friend's 6 pot brembos on his sti turned colors on him too. I am waiting for the AIM Solo 2 DL to come in so all I am using is the M Performance Lap Timer that is built into the car. That was the first time I have driven ECR and did a 2:07. Not the best but I am content with the time since I never drove the track before that day.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkDemma View Post
I think there is a one part that you could get that would solve all these issues ...
By the time all's said and done, I will still have less into the car vs buying the M2 comp. But, economics aside, I am having a great time building this car and wouldn't have it any other way. I have another car that is even better out of the box than the M2 but the running costs are too high so it never gets the same amount of track time as the m240i.
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      05-07-2018, 01:07 PM   #34
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By the time all's said and done, I will still have less into the car vs buying the M2 comp. But, economics aside, I am having a great time building this car and wouldn't have it any other way. I have another car that is even better out of the box than the M2 but the running costs are too high so it never gets the same amount of track time as the m240i.


The M2 comp is a really cool car. If I wanted something to keep 100% OEM, it would probably be the car to have, or a Caymen S, at those prices.. I have a disease, I just can't keep things stock, and I am very rarely happy with something that I've bought, until I make it my own. So I buy the car that has the most opportunity, vs trying to buy the best car "out of the box". It also keeps the purchase price down, and allows for more room for mods if on a budget of any kind
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      05-08-2018, 04:06 PM   #35
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The M2 comp is a really cool car. If I wanted something to keep 100% OEM, it would probably be the car to have, or a Caymen S, at those prices.. I have a disease, I just can't keep things stock, and I am very rarely happy with something that I've bought, until I make it my own. So I buy the car that has the most opportunity, vs trying to buy the best car "out of the box". It also keeps the purchase price down, and allows for more room for mods if on a budget of any kind
I mean, if you are going to tinker and make it your own anyway, why not get what you want for the right reasons instead of what the "factory" gave you and save some loot to boot. That's why I drive a 228i.
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      05-08-2018, 04:32 PM   #36
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I mean, if you are going to tinker and make it your own anyway, why not get what you want for the right reasons instead of what the "factory" gave you and save some loot to boot. That's why I drive a 228i.

You're preaching my tune, lol. This is why I went with the M-lite car. Which to start, was already more capable than previous gen M cars (e46M, e87, e36M) which are all hailed for being great track toys.
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      05-09-2018, 08:40 AM   #37
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I had the rollbar, seats, harnesses, and steering wheel installed yesterday. Here is a brief review for each piece.

M Performance Steering wheel: It is a flat bottom wheel so I was under the impression that it would allow for more clearance getting in and out of the car. That is not the case. It is the same exact diameter so the primary reason I bought the wheel is a bust. The thickness is... Thick. Much thicker than stock. The alcantara feels nice and durable, more so than the alcantara wheels on 911s.

StudioRSR Roll bar: What a nightmare. They advertised it as NASA spec and it could not have been any further from the truth. It sits lower than my helmet, there are only two bolt holes into the bottom of the car, the harness attachment is way too low, and the powder coating was splotchy. If you want car bling, go for it. If you need actual safety equipment, stay away. Dealing with them was also difficult. They were late on the promised delivery date and then they sent it to an address that does not exist. I am going to try and work something out with them but at this point, all the money spent on the part and install is a total waste. This will never pass inspection.

Racetech Seats/Harnesses: Wow they are comfortable. For those who have never sat in a racetech seat, you should. It is oem comfortable with big strong bolsters. The driving experience is completely changed. No more death grip on the steering wheel to hold on. The harnesses are comfortable and look great. They even have velcro on the side straps to hold them in place when not in use so that they don't clatter all over the place. We used the brey krause mounting plates so we were able to retain the power slider function. However, since I would like to sit a bit lower, I am going to switch it to a manual slider for the driver's side.
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      05-09-2018, 10:15 AM   #38
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Racetech Seats/Harnesses: Wow they are comfortable.
Sorry to hear only one out of the 3 updates panned out for you... a real shame on that roll bar.

The seats you installed, did you figure out how much weight you saved on switching the OEM's out with those?
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      05-10-2018, 10:19 AM   #39
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I would take out the "roll bars" because that's not passing tech and it seems useless.

What made you choose Racetech over others?
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      05-10-2018, 11:22 AM   #40
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Sorry to hear only one out of the 3 updates panned out for you... a real shame on that roll bar.

The seats you installed, did you figure out how much weight you saved on switching the OEM's out with those?
I didn't weight them but just an estimate from picking them up, I'd say around 25-30lb each side.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cxp213 View Post
I would take out the "roll bars" because that's not passing tech and it seems useless.

What made you choose Racetech over others?
I thought about that but it is going to be a pain to remove them myself. StudioRSR has agreed to make another one and send it over to the shop to do the swap so I will just wait until then.

Racetechs are by far the most comfortable between all of the brands/seats I've tried. The fit and finish is also a notch above everybody else. There is also no flex like in other seats and their support is top notch. I think TTW still has one sitting around that you could try out if interested. That one came in with part of the stitching on the logo torn so Racetech sent over a new seat for replacement right away. The one with bad stitching should still be there. I was told by the shop owner that most people that start with other seats usually wind up with Racetechs anyways so I decided to take the short cut and get them right off the bat. Even my wife, who was/is 100% against the race seats, found them to be very comfortable.
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      05-10-2018, 03:28 PM   #41
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My experience has been that chairs are like helmets - you need to try them on to see what fits you best, and one brand's products will usually stand out from the rest. The challenge can be finding a convenient place to try on a number brands' products at the same time.
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      05-10-2018, 06:54 PM   #42
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Great looking seats. Did you look into trying to add another 8" of height to that rollbar, or otherwise rehab it? from the pics, it looks like that might put it right, if they let you weld in a spacer (and fix it to the chassis better).
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      05-11-2018, 07:35 AM   #43
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My experience has been that chairs are like helmets - you need to try them on to see what fits you best, and one brand's products will usually stand out from the rest. The challenge can be finding a convenient place to try on a number brands' products at the same time.
Absolutely. It is nice to have somewhere that has a bunch of seats installed into several race cars that I could try out.

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Great looking seats. Did you look into trying to add another 8" of height to that rollbar, or otherwise rehab it? from the pics, it looks like that might put it right, if they let you weld in a spacer (and fix it to the chassis better).
I measured and it looks like another 5" will align the bar with the holes. StudioRSR shot me a message and said that they would send me a new bar that would actually work. In the mean time, the shop I used mentioned digitizing the interior of the car so that they could design the roll bar and roll cage system on CAD - doing so would guarantee consistent results in manufacturing. Sounds compelling...
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      05-11-2018, 10:07 AM   #44
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Absolutely. It is nice to have Texas Track Works as a resource since they have a bunch of seats installed into several race cars that I could try out.
Which model did you go with? It looks like either the RT4000WX or RT4009... did you go with standard or wide?
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