03-20-2016, 04:34 PM | #1 |
Lieutenant Colonel
624
Rep 1,753
Posts |
DIY: Burger Tuning short throw clutch stop install
While researching my car I noticed that people were complaining about the clutch travel being insanely long. They were right. :/ Prior to purchasing my car I went ahead and ordered this (no affiliation). I finally got around to installing it last night. Install took about 20 minutes, but can definitely be done in less time.
Clutch travel and engagement are soooooooooooo much better after installing this. THis is the way it should have been from the factory lol. Burger does provide an installation guide, but MY2016 appears to have changed a bit. I'll add pictures after I upload them somewhere. This site is a pain when trying to upload pics. Tools needed: A contortionist 10mm socket Socket wrench Flashlight 1) Start by removing the 10mm nuts. Burger's install shows three torx screws. Apparently these have been replaced. 2) Using the pull and pray method shimmy yourself under the steering wheel and pry off the plastic panel. I found it easiest to start on the side where the OBDII port is located. Pull down to get the clips at the front of the panel to come loose. Front being the side closest to the driver. Once you get one side it's pretty easy to get the rest to follow. Drop the now free panel down, but not too far. You have some wires to disconnect. 3) Disconnect the blue connector pin on the little speaker. Squeeze on the left side of the connector to get it off. 4) Disconnect the black connector from the light. This was a pain and I thought I was doing something wrong. Wiggle it left to right and it will finally come free. 5) Pull the panel completely out and set it aside 6) Using a flashlight locate the tiny oem rubber clutch stop 7) With the Burger stop in hand shimmy back underneath the steering wheel 8) Pull out the tiny oem clutch stop 9) Push in the new hotness clutch stop 10) Crank up the car and mess with the clutch engagement. Burger suggested using all 3 shims. I found that using all three left like zero clutch travel before clutch engagement. Using two shims was the right answer for me. 11) Park your car (duh) 12) Starting from the back (furthest away from the driver) reinstall the plastic cover. Don't put it all the way in though. 13) Reconnect the speaker and light harnesses 14) Push the panel back up into position until the clips are seated 15) Reinstall the 10mm bolts
__________________
Last edited by BentZero; 05-02-2016 at 03:23 PM.. |
03-20-2016, 04:48 PM | #2 |
Lieutenant Colonel
624
Rep 1,753
Posts |
Added pics.....way too many steps lol. I originally uploaded pics in this post as attachments. Then edited the first post and inserted the image tags using the location of the attached pics. Then edited this post and removed the attachments. Luckily the site doesn't delete the pics when removing the attachments. Anyway, hope this was helpful. Happy modding.
__________________
Last edited by BentZero; 03-20-2016 at 10:05 PM.. |
Appreciate
0
|
03-21-2016, 09:50 AM | #3 |
Private
41
Rep 52
Posts |
Or toss an LED work light in and lay on your back in the footwell, move the rubber gap filler in that panel around the brake pedal arm (or clutch arm, depending on how far into the footwell you landed) with your fingers so you can see the clutch stop, and pull it with pliers.
I've installed, and then had the BMS clutch stop in and out a couple of times for adjustment without pulling the under dash panels, so it's possible.
__________________
'16 M4 Vert - San Marino Blue/Sahkir 6MT
|
Appreciate
1
|
03-21-2016, 09:55 AM | #4 | |
Lieutenant Colonel
624
Rep 1,753
Posts |
Quote:
__________________
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-22-2016, 05:49 PM | #5 |
Captain
649
Rep 885
Posts |
Just did this myself. Best $10 mod ever. I removed 1 of the 3 rubber washers as well, and now there's about an inch of play before the clutch grabs. Hard to believe BMW didn't set it up this way from the factory.
Thanks so much for the tip BentZero!
__________________
Vehicles: 2021 Alpine White M2C 6MT; 2011 Kawasaki Z1000 (1/4 mile 10.3 seconds @ 129 mph - stock)
Previous: 2018 Camaro 2SS 1LE 6MT; 2015 BMW M235i 6MT; 2015 Mini Cooper F56 6MT; 2005 Mustang GT 5MT; 2003 Mini Cooper R50 5MT |
Appreciate
0
|
04-23-2016, 12:05 AM | #6 |
Lieutenant Colonel
624
Rep 1,753
Posts |
That's awesome! Yeah man, I don't even think about the clutch anymore. It's a lot more natural now and I shift a lot smoother. My next tip.....get an intake. So worth it.
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-02-2016, 09:09 AM | #7 |
Major
583
Rep 1,117
Posts
Drives: 2015 BMW M235i
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: ontario
|
Thanks for this write up man! Been looking at this mod for a bit but wasn't sure.
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-02-2016, 09:11 AM | #8 |
Lieutenant Colonel
624
Rep 1,753
Posts |
No problem. I need to update this with pics. I forgot that it removed them.
__________________
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-02-2016, 09:23 AM | #9 |
Major
583
Rep 1,117
Posts
Drives: 2015 BMW M235i
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: ontario
|
Have you tried the Clutch Delay valve from Burger? Seems pretty cool as well.
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-02-2016, 05:29 PM | #10 |
Private
41
Rep 52
Posts |
Unfortunately BMW engineered out the external, replaceable (thus deletable) CDV on the 2 series. So we're stuck dealing with the CDV effects.
__________________
'16 M4 Vert - San Marino Blue/Sahkir 6MT
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-02-2016, 07:29 PM | #11 |
Major
583
Rep 1,117
Posts
Drives: 2015 BMW M235i
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: ontario
|
noooooo
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-02-2016, 07:33 PM | #12 |
Lieutenant Colonel
624
Rep 1,753
Posts |
I'm not familiar with this. What's the issue?
__________________
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-03-2016, 03:51 PM | #13 |
Private
41
Rep 52
Posts |
BMW, in their great engineering wisdom, has often decided that we aren't fully capable of controlling clutch engagement on our own.
So they put a valve between the Clutch Master Cylinder and the Slave that restricts the flow of fluid. When you move the clutch pedal, it actually slows the release of the slave cylinder to not be completely linear with the clutch pedal movement. Thus "Clutch Delay Valve" Coming from 22 years driving Miatas where the clutch is hard-wired to the pedal (especially after you swap out the normal clutch line with a double loop, for a direct SS line) it's a bit odd to have it be so laggy I've adjusted, but it's annoying not to be able to replace the CDV with one that's been bored out (no restrictions) so it acts like a hydraulic clutch system should, and pedal movement is directly reflected in pressure plate movement. It used to be external and you could just swap it for one with that was modified so it provided no restrictions. In the 2 series, it's been integrated into the bell-housing/clutch, so not an easy external replacement/fix/hack/whatever.
__________________
'16 M4 Vert - San Marino Blue/Sahkir 6MT
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-03-2016, 04:14 PM | #14 | |
Lieutenant Colonel
624
Rep 1,753
Posts |
Quote:
__________________
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-04-2016, 12:56 PM | #16 |
Private
41
Rep 52
Posts |
It's just a matter of getting used to the clutch engagement. About the only real downside is I find that when I'm really driving aggressively I have to tone down my shifts just the tiniest amount to allow for the delay.
In day to day driving, it actually makes things a bit more relaxed and smoother. (There's a reason why people love Miatas so much, there being such a direct connection between the driver, controls and car.)
__________________
'16 M4 Vert - San Marino Blue/Sahkir 6MT
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-04-2016, 01:37 PM | #17 | |
Lieutenant Colonel
624
Rep 1,753
Posts |
Quote:
__________________
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-15-2016, 05:59 PM | #19 |
New Member
5
Rep 18
Posts |
Just did this mod by feel, basically. Put my hand up and behind the clutch pedal, yanked the stock piece, and put in the new unit minus one shim. Went for a drive, used both comfort and sport, decided the clutch engagement was a bit abrupt, so back at the ranch, removed one more shim.
One shim plus the thicker/wider face seems to do the trick for me and my car. Overall a worthwhile and easy mod. The total number of shims will be user dependent, IMO. |
Appreciate
0
|
05-17-2016, 03:27 PM | #21 |
Major General
5538
Rep 5,364
Posts |
I've owned my M235 6MT since early February. Two weeks after getting the car, I made my own "clutch pedal stop" with a piece of 1/2" by 1/2" 1/4" high durometer rubber and 3M tape.
I've been driving manuals since 1993 and found the clutch engagement on the M235 to be off at times, specifically starting in 1st and the 1-2 shift. It's like the engagement point moves around a bit. Basically I could occasionally be a abrupt when leaving in 1st or on the 1-2 shift. I found this annoying and a bit ego shattering considering how long I owned and competitively raced manual transmission cars. After learning a bit more about how these CDVs work and most importantly, BMW's clutch system design that maintains the engagement in the same overall area as the clutch wears, last week I decided to remove my clutch stop and see if there was a change. To my amazement, it's far easier to modulate the clutch and I'm smooth all the time. Yes, the OEM clutch travel is a bit excessive, but it makes for much easier and consistent modulation. Given this, I do have doubts about the overall effectiveness of the clutch stop and it's operation in relationship to BMW's clutch system design. I can also see how even just a 3/8" thick clutch stop could potentially negatively effect the life of the clutch assembly. |
Appreciate
0
|
05-17-2016, 03:45 PM | #22 | |
Lieutenant Colonel
624
Rep 1,753
Posts |
Quote:
__________________
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|