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      12-02-2014, 10:11 PM   #45
huma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyperzulu View Post
That $459 was for the pair and it includes the spacer brackets for guaranteed fit. Plus these can play down to 50hz, but the stock cross points might filter before then.

I like the full set since they have real components for better imaging like the HK. But these should sound much more crisp. Not sure anything can be done about the insulation though...
Are these the only subs you found that will fit in the stock location?

Will it work with the stock amp, or do I need to upgrade the amp as well?
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      12-02-2014, 10:23 PM   #46
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Are these the only subs you found that will fit in the stock location?

Will it work with the stock amp, or do I need to upgrade the amp as well?
MB Quart has a full set. Couldn't find individual subs for them though.
http://mbquart-store.maxxsonics.com/qm200-3bmw/
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      12-02-2014, 10:25 PM   #47
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Focal has a set of woofers:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-2jIHXno...IFBMW-SUB.html
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      12-02-2014, 10:26 PM   #48
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MB Quart has a full set. Couldn't find individual subs for them though.
http://mbquart-store.maxxsonics.com/qm200-3bmw/
$399 is a pretty good deal. Does anyone own this set that can chime in on the quality?

I only have the base audio, so I won't be able to use the tweeters?
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      12-02-2014, 10:31 PM   #49
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$399 is a pretty good deal. Does anyone own this set that can chime in on the quality?

I only have the base audio, so I won't be able to use the tweeters?
I only have the base audio as well, but you can buy the sail panel triangle covers of the HK system from your BMW dealer parts department. Someone said the door mat even be pre wired for the tweeters.
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      12-02-2014, 10:57 PM   #50
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I only have the base audio as well, but you can buy the sail panel triangle covers of the HK system from your BMW dealer parts department. Someone said the door mat even be pre wired for the tweeters.
Sail panel appears to come with tweeter and wire and that is why they cost about $50.
I personally like coaxial type for the 4" driver as the crossover frequency is usually very high and normally it is not a good thing to have tweeter place so far off from the midrange as this normally causes off-axis anormalies.
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      12-03-2014, 12:11 AM   #51
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You're right. I wonder if any of the older style parts will fit. These generally sell for $15. I think the sail panel is a fine location for the tweeter. It be better in a kick pod but that's too much work for me.
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      12-03-2014, 12:14 AM   #52
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The distributor for Jehnert said he's offering free shipping this whole month. I'm waiting to see if he has a kit available, but he says he has another order of kits coming on Thursday and another for next week. Will see how it goes. My car should be back with me on Saturday.
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      12-03-2014, 10:38 PM   #53
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Good find but $400 each is a bit steep.

Anyone have experience with Image Dynamics? The CTX 4 pair has incredible range for the price.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ics-CTX-4.html
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      12-03-2014, 10:46 PM   #54
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I've run a pair of ID drivers. They took some time to fully break in, but they played really well. The pair I used was super flexible and I ended up putting them into a set of towers for my home theater and sounded great there too.
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      12-03-2014, 10:55 PM   #55
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I've run a pair of ID drivers. They took some time to fully break in, but they played really well. The pair I used was super flexible and I ended up putting them into a set of towers for my home theater and sounded great there too.
Thanks, two pair of the IDs cost about $100 less than the Focals. Hoping they fit. Will have to wait and see which underseat subs work best for others and then choose on those later.
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      12-04-2014, 11:00 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyperzulu View Post
MB Quart has a full set. Couldn't find individual subs for them though.
http://mbquart-store.maxxsonics.com/qm200-3bmw/
These ones are similar to MB Quart subs http://www.crutchfield.com/p_975MS8B...-1.html?tp=105

Upgrading only the sub's amp or Hi-Fi amp will improve bass a lot.
It will be cleaner and louder.
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      12-04-2014, 11:59 AM   #57
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These ones are similar to MB Quart subs http://www.crutchfield.com/p_975MS8B...-1.html?tp=105

Upgrading only the sub's amp or Hi-Fi amp will improve bass a lot.
It will be cleaner and louder.
From everything I've read, it seems the base system available on the 2 series is the best way to go if you're upgrading, since it delivers a cleaner signal (unaltered) to an external amp. If you were to try to retrofit the top hi-fi (HK) amp, you would end up with that amp's DSP settings.

This is some anecdotal info regarding the Helix (and MBQ) subs:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=979008
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      12-04-2014, 01:45 PM   #58
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From everything I've read, it seems the base system available on the 2 series is the best way to go if you're upgrading, since it delivers a cleaner signal (unaltered) to an external amp. If you were to try to retrofit the top hi-fi (HK) amp, you would end up with that amp's DSP settings.

This is some anecdotal info regarding the Helix (and MBQ) subs:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=979008
Yes the Hi-Fi setup is the best for aftermarket upgrade. It has analog high-level flat (un-equalized) outputs from the head unit to separate 7-channel amp.
The HiFi amp has built-in equalization and Hi and Lo pass filters.
Changing speakers only will still leave Hifi equalization effect on aftermarket speakers.
There is boost in upper midrange and uppes bass so it is not ideal to just upgrade speakers (although result is much better than stock setup).
However tweaking bass/treble controls can make them sound more a bit more natural.
In my case I have set treble -3 and bass -1.
On the other hand HK system is not easy to upgrade.
HK amp does not use analog signal so the head unit's output is digital.
There is no direct amp replacement for this system.
In addition HK amp outputs are heavily equalized and upgrading speaker only may not give desirable result.
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      12-04-2014, 02:38 PM   #59
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I went ahead and put down my money for the Jehnert system. Don sells these systems really quickly, but is constantly getting new shipments in. I pick my car back up this Saturday and should have the speakers next week or the following. I'm excited to see how they work as a drop-in replacement for the stock system. It is a big investment in money, especially for a lease, but I am pretty sure I'll be able to use the same system in the next car, if I spring for an M2 on the next go.

Either way, I'll let everyone know what I think of each of the parts. Eventually I'll likely get a harness and amplifier to power the speakers. I might be able to get by with 2 channel amp to keep things simple, rather than going completely active with a 6 channel amp and running speaker wire all over the car. I don't really care to power the rear speakers unless I absolutely have to. I'm wondering if I can bypass the amp for the rear speakers and set the fader in iDrive to the front only without affecting PDC.
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      12-04-2014, 02:48 PM   #60
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You don't need to run any speaker wires.
Use existing speaker wires.
With Technic's harness you will just need to unplug connector from the OEM amp and plug it to the harness.
The harness is designed for replacing all amp channels and you cannot really just replace 2 channel.
I did it on my E82 an it took me less than 30 minutes to put back OEM amp.
The trickiest part of replacing amp is setting hi an low pass filters and even setting woofer polarity.
It takes a lot of trials and errors without proper instruments.
I will likely replace Hi-Fi amp during holiday week and I will post my amp install on this forum.
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      12-04-2014, 03:00 PM   #61
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Got it. So at the very least I would need a 4 channel amp. The reason I said running speaker wire was to be able to power each speaker using a dedicated channel on the amp. Are there six pairs of wiring for the front speakers from the stock system already?
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      12-04-2014, 03:11 PM   #62
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There are 7 pair wires for speakers connection ( 2 front door 1 center 2 woofer 2 rear deck).
If you use 4 channel amp then you will only be able to connect to 2 front door speakers and under seat subwoofers.
I highly recommend connecting rear deck speakers as they provide a nice boost to upper midrange.
Use at least 6-channel amp to replace stock amp.
I will skip the center channel as it is not necessary and it is a bit more challenging connecting it as the head unit only outputs 4 channels (2 Front 2 Rears) and you will need special adapter or processor unit to produce L + R signal.
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      12-04-2014, 03:19 PM   #63
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Cool. Thanks. I definitely need the rear speakers because of park distance control. Those beeps use all four channels. At least I'll be able to make use of the extra set of diamond audio speakers I have. You know if I can replace the rear deck brackets with ones that include tweeter mounts? Or maybe all rear decks have holes for the tweeters regardless of the system you got... The diamonds are a full component set.
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      12-04-2014, 03:47 PM   #64
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There is cutout hole for the tweeter and it is covered by custom cut foam piece.
There is no bracket for tweeter, bracket is built into OEM tweeter.
It is not hard to fit aftermarket tweeter in existing cutout.
However the grill cover area above the tweeter cutout is sealed so the grill cover will need to be replaced with HK ones (unless you willing to drill several small holes).
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      12-04-2014, 10:04 PM   #65
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HK tweeters in the base system

Since I understand that the perforated sails include the speakers I would try that as a jumping point.
It's probably a 1 beer plug and play.
Has anyone verified that the base system is wired to accept speakers behind the solid sails in the doors?:
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      12-04-2014, 10:38 PM   #66
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Quote:
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Since I understand that the perforated sails include the speakers I would try that as a jumping point.
It's probably a 1 beer plug and play.
Has anyone verified that the base system is wired to accept speakers behind the solid sails in the doors?:
There is no wire from amp or head unit to sail.
Tweeter in sail has attached wire that connects to woofer on door.
You can reuse wires that come with sail tweeter or just run wire from sail to woofer's connections.
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