03-26-2019, 11:38 PM | #155 | |
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My Caterham runs 2.7 degrees of front camber which leads to noticeable inner shoulder wear if I drive a few thousand kilometres on the highway without a lot of hard cornering, but a couple of track days evens it out again. |
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03-27-2019, 07:52 AM | #156 | ||
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For reference, every Spring I measure depths at four points across all tires to see which set belongs in the back. My track season ends a few months before the winters go on, I'm still hitting back roads on the weekends, but way more highway miles are driven. Even then the greatest variance inner to outer on my PS4s was half a millimeter with -1.7f and -1.9r.
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328i RWD | MW on CRed Slick Top | 6MT | BM3 | MPE | GPlus FMIC | CSF Radiator | Millway Street Camber Plates & Monoballs | KW V2 6k/18k Swift Springs | F80 LCA/TS | SPL Bump Steer Kit | APEX SM-10 | R-S4 | DS2500 | RBF600 | SS Lines | Past: E36 328is & E38 740i |
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04-01-2019, 09:20 AM | #157 | |||
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04-01-2019, 10:06 AM | #158 |
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https://www.grainger.com/product/GRA...-1-2-O-D-4ARX6
This is the closest I've been able to find. It's a hair thicker than 1mm. |
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04-04-2019, 09:53 AM | #159 |
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Has anybody installed Powerflex adjustable offset thurst arm bushings in the stock arms along with F80 LCA? In theory, one could increase length of thrust arm to push wheel back a little for less caster and less rubbing.
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05-09-2019, 10:27 PM | #160 |
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Drives: F80 M3
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Location: Santa Barbara, AP, Brembo, GIAC, Koni, Ohlins, Performance Friction, www.hpautosport.com
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Adjustable tension strut/arm bushing to get the castor back to where it was after installation of the F8x front lower control arms.
Plus or minus 1.5 degrees of adjustment. https://www.hpashop.com/Whiteline-20...Kit-KCA473.htm |
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01-17-2020, 07:51 PM | #162 | |
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Lower control arms to subframe 74 ftlb (100 Nm)
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01-20-2020, 08:00 AM | #163 | |
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If I am wrong here I'd like some clarification. They do it this way so that the nut/bolt deforms to the right amount to prevent itself loosening. I found this very difficult. I am not physically strong enough to do the final turn in the limited space under the car, even with a decently long bar. I'd say it needs a pit to get the weight on it. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ounts/GaGZPQz2 |
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01-22-2020, 10:12 PM | #164 |
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So from my reading of this thread, this kit:
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...m-upgrade-kit/ Is not just plug and play (besides getting an alignment)? There are spacers etc needed? |
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01-23-2020, 12:39 PM | #165 | |
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I'd also recommend replacing the nuts and bolts. |
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01-24-2020, 02:23 PM | #166 | |
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Here is the parts list I plan on providing them, anything else I need/should tell them in advance? https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...e-kit/?pdk=AQE https://www.summitracing.com/parts/KYS-100-377-3 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/KYS-100-377-1 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/31122284531/ https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/31122284532/ This is my daily driver so I need reliability above all else, and want to avoid rubbing at all costs! Thanks guys. Last edited by tcollier91; 01-24-2020 at 09:56 PM.. |
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01-25-2020, 04:24 AM | #167 | |
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https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=31_0942 If you want to replace the nuts and bolts, (which is mandated by BMW - and a good idea, these kind of bolts are designed to stretch and lock) you need: 4 x M14 combination nuts, 33306787062, labelled 9 in the M240i diagram 2 x M12 Hexagon Screw 31106885777, labelled 8 in the M240i diagram 2 x M12 Hex screw 31106797237, labelled 11 in the M240i diagram 2 x M12 Hex Nut , 33326760668 labelled 12 in the M240i diagram (The M2 pages have the same part numbers but are labelled differently: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=31_1123 ) |
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01-25-2020, 07:18 AM | #169 |
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01-25-2020, 07:19 AM | #170 | |
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01-26-2020, 03:53 AM | #171 | |
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This, the original M240i: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=31_0948 and this, the LCI: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=31_0948 say they all have the regulating rod. Note that you only need the Ball part and nut of the joint from the M2 rod (PN: 37146752797) - it pops off the rod. You then use your original Regulating rod with the M2 ball + nut. The M2 ball is screwed to the LCA, the M240i one clips on, and won't clip onto the M2 LCA. This shows the M2 part: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=31_1126 Last edited by Sonertial; 01-26-2020 at 04:09 AM.. |
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01-28-2020, 09:48 AM | #172 |
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I installed the TS arms and I had my first track day on Sunday.
I had the LCAs for 2 years and i can see they independently affect handling. The LCAs added camber and a willingness to turn in. So onto the TS arms.. I will confirm that stability underbraking is much better. I am much more confident in braking zones. There is increased feedback during cornering. It is perceptible. It does move the wheel back just slightly and centers it. I have 245/40-18 RE71Rs that needed that .5 inch of movement towards the back. So for the money this is very good modification. It is not expensive relatively and the changes are perceptible. It doesnt make the car faster - but the increasing the drivers confidence does increase your ability to brake and corner faster. https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1533822 for my buttonwillow Progress thread |
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02-11-2020, 01:12 PM | #173 |
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These LCAs are not an exact match to the F22 chassis. Some fitment issues, pros and cons. Pros being better steering feel and more negative camber. Can you achieve the same thing with camber plates? Going with lowering springs and looking for some more negative camber for tire wear and to fit bigger tires up front. Street and daily driver, no auto x, yet.
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02-14-2020, 01:33 AM | #174 |
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After reading any LCA related thread in the earth, today i'm installing both LCAs and TS (and also some brake improvementw: Ds2500, motul rf600 and steel lines).
I'll update with my feedback after driving with the new mods. |
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02-14-2020, 01:51 PM | #175 |
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Well, first impressions (maybe placebo, maybe not)
- The car seems to be eager to turn. More planted in the turns. - Firmer steering in comfort mode (I really like it). - Less dead zone For the moment, a few km, I like the feeling. I have some concerns, because in the alignment, they set this: BEFORE Front - Camber: -0º 42' Left -1º 25' Right - Toe: 0º 1' Left 0º 1' Right - Caster: 6º 29' Left 6º 32' Right AFTER Front - Camber: 1º 24' Left 2º 38' Right - Toe: 0º 3' Left 0º 3' Right - Caster: 7º 33' Left 7º 44' Right The gain of 1º of caster is normal? I installed the TS too The rear is OK (~ -1º 44' , -1º 49' and toe 0º 6') The thing is the differente between left front camber and right front camber. The left is in the range I expected (~1,5 degrees), has 1 more degree than expected. They told me that they spin all the wheels and they found that the front right wheel is lightly bent in a point (almost not appreciable for an human eye when it is in the car). As I had not any accident, it probably is due to a big bumper that maybe bent the suspension. They say that if tyre wear is ok, they wouldn´t change anything but, for me, it seems like a lot of difference and negative cambier (is my DD, and I usually do spirit driving , track very ocasionally). I guess I will wear the inner faster thant the outside... What do you think? UPDATE: left front side is side like 4mm lower than the right side Last edited by Pbdeed; 02-14-2020 at 02:37 PM.. |
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03-14-2020, 01:15 AM | #176 |
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After 15 days and a poor client attention from the BMW dealer, they finally give me back the car. They changed both front spring strut (31316880944) and Swivel bearing (31216853650). This Swivel bearing is the one with a correction of +30min positive. So finaly my front camber is: LEFT: -1º 31' (~1,5 grades) RIGHT: -1º 17' (~1,28 grades) I wonder if the stock Swivel bearing is also +30min positive, so my question is if both left and right side that I have in the car right now are the same kind. In case it is not, and neutral camber (31216792286) is the stock one - which for me makes sense-, I don´t know if I would have been better to use the same kind in the right one (the one replaced) so I would have -1º 47' (~1.78 grades). What do you think? The thing is that I have to come back on monday to the dealer, as the alignment they did was not what I explicitly stated that I wanted. In fact they left the toe in the rear with this values (Left: 0º09' Right: 0º04') and I feel the rear a bit nervous. I´d want something like 0º09' in both |
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