[MineralWhtF22]

own a 15’ M235i xdrive and was fixing the oil cooler pipe to oil cooler/thermostat o rings since they were leaking and wanted to do an oil change within the same process. did that, changed oil and attempted to prime oil just to be safe but rushed the process and didn’t want to remove the strut brace and made a stupid mistake. i disconnected the red ground wires that go to the injector/ignition coil connections and unplugged lpfp connection (i know very stupid mistake). I cranked the car but car started and was idling rough and check engine light slowly started to flash on with white fuel warning on i drive display. turned it off after maybe 5 seconds of realizing it was running. Went back to the front and this time connected red ground wires and maneuvered enough to disconnect every single ignition coil connection. went to attempt to crank again with No lpfp connector, no ignition coil connectors. Car was cranking like it should be when you’re priming the oil system. did it 3 times for about 10 seconds with 20 seconds break in between. Connected everything back up and went to start the car but car just keeps cranking with no start and has a red drivetrain malfunction please turn off engine and contact roadside assistance message on idrive display. Car will crank forever but will not start. Idrive display keeps saying battery is very low now as well. lpfp is a stage 3.5 precision raceworks.

i am getting the following codes from mhd:

- DME active codes -
113026 - Ignition relay and injectors, supply voltage, fuel injection: Short circuit to ground.
1F0514 - Valvetronic, supply voltage: Short circuit to ground.
- DME shadow (inactive) codes -
108932 unknown
140011 - Misfire: Fuel injection deactivation.
193A20 - Fuel tank level, multiple fault: signal and electrical.
1FB101 - Check Control message (ID 229): Vehicle battery charge low!.
21A023 - Combustion engine: Unsuccessful start or engine stopped without driver influence.
231501 - Fault entry: Send buffer full.

- DME active codes -
113026 - Ignition relay and injectors, supply voltage, fuel injection: Short circuit to ground.
1F0514 - Valvetronic, supply voltage: Short circuit to ground.
- DME shadow (inactive) codes -
140011 - Misfire: Fuel injection deactivation.
1FB101 - Check Control message (ID 229): Vehicle battery charge low!.

Codes from Bmw OBD Scan Tool:

1F0514 Valvetronic, supply voltage: Short circuit to earth
113026 Relay, ignition and injection system, supply voltage, fuel injection: Short circuit to ground
804080 Ignition on: Startability limit reached or ignition on for a long time.
8040B7 Deactivation of terminal 15:upper startability limit reached

Any help is greatly appreciated. Have seen a similar post where someone had to get a new dme and valvetronic motor, hoping that’s not the case but…

[MarcoZandrini]

Red wires are power. Brown is ground.

[MineralWhtF22]

this is the cable that im referring to, the one that’s held into place by a small nut in between the coils. There’s 3.

[ferraricare]

I would start by reconnecting everything, clearing codes, trying to start and recheck to see which codes recur. This will help limit the scope of possibilities anyway.

[MineralWhtF22]

I reconnected everything and tried to start and the codes that stay active no matter what are:

- DME active codes -
113026 - Ignition relay and injectors, supply voltage, fuel injection: Short circuit to ground.
1F0514 - Valvetronic, supply voltage: Short circuit to ground.

- DME shadow (inactive) codes -
140011 - Misfire: Fuel injection deactivation.
1FB101 - Check Control message (ID 229): Vehicle battery charge low!.

[MineralWhtF22]

battery is also really low out of nowhere, and idrive seemed like it was slightly glitching/being jittery.

[Kernel Kurtz]

Having a strong battery is a prerequisite before diagnosing anything because a weak battery can cause all kinds of odd and seemingly unrelated behaviour and errors.

[Kernel Kurtz]

Quick Googling points to the DME as a possible culprit. I'm sure you don't want to hear that. I'd start my making sure all the connections there are clean and solid though.

[MineralWhtF22]

Originally Posted by Kernel Kurtz

Quick Googling points to the DME as a possible culprit. I'm sure you don't want to hear that. I'd start my making sure all the connections there are clean and solid though.

Yeah i ordered a good used dme (i’ll have to get it cloned to match my current one) and a used ISM just in case. Going to check every fuse this weekend too. Hopefully that’s the extent of the problem. But definitely going to let the car sit for a little bit with no battery and recharge the battery to full to see if anything changes. Also debating replacing valvetronic motor since i read on an other thread that a bad valvetronic motor can short the dme. Not sure if the ignition grounds being disconnected could’ve damaged it and shorted it out, but I would be so sick if i replaced the dme with the used one i just got just for the possibility for it to get damaged again from a bad valvetronic motor.

[Coupsoup]

Do not just plug that DME in until you check the Valvetronic motor circuits.

The code is for a short to ground on from the voltage supply to the motor from the DME. If you just plug in another DME you could fry that one instantly.

The logic is pretty complicated but essentially the DME sends current down one wire and checks if it shows up on another wire. In between those two is a load, in this case the valvetronic motor. If it supplies current on one wire and does not see it on another it assumes an open circuit, in this case it sees continuity to ground or a 'short' to ground as there are no circumstances where it expects to see continuity to ground.

This is very dangerous to high amperage load supply circuits and frequently results in burned out driver transistors.

The car uses the valvetronic system to start the engine so valvetronic issues can result in no starts.

Remove the valvetronic motor connector, clear the codes, crank the vehicle and recheck codes. You're looking for the 'short to ground' code to become an 'open circuit' code.

That would indicate there are no 'short to ground' issues in the harness itself. Unlikely but an easy test.

If there are no shorts to ground with the motor unplugged assume it is bad, this is a pattern failure for this engine.

You could do some additional testing if you're interested but that's kind of just academic and not really necessary for diagnosis.

The motor can fail independently but it is often due to a binding eccentric shaft. I'll refer you to a more complete post I made in the past on the same topic.

https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=2145795

[MineralWhtF22]

Originally Posted by Coupsoup

Do not just plug that DME in until you check the Valvetronic motor circuits.

The code is for a short to ground on from the voltage supply to the motor from the DME. If you just plug in another DME you could fry that one instantly.

The logic is pretty complicated but essentially the DME sends current down one wire and checks if it shows up on another wire. In between those two is a load, in this case the valvetronic motor. If it supplies current on one wire and does not see it on another it assumes an open circuit, in this case it sees continuity to ground or a 'short' to ground as there are no circumstances where it expects to see continuity to ground.

This is very dangerous to high amperage load supply circuits and frequently results in burned out driver transistors.

The car uses the valvetronic system to start the engine so valvetronic issues can result in no starts.

Remove the valvetronic motor connector, clear the codes, crank the vehicle and recheck codes. You're looking for the 'short to ground' code to become an 'open circuit' code.

That would indicate there are no 'short to ground' issues in the harness itself. Unlikely but an easy test.

If there are no shorts to ground with the motor unplugged assume it is bad, this is a pattern failure for this engine.

You could do some additional testing if you're interested but that's kind of just academic and not really necessary for diagnosis.

The motor can fail independently but it is often due to a binding eccentric shaft. I'll refer you to a more complete post I made in the past on the same topic.

https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=2145795

thank you, Just read your write up on the other thread. So essentially the best thing i should do is replace the valvetronic motor as a preventative measure to make sure there’s no chance of frying the new dme? Do you think it can really be as extensive to be the eccentric shaft binding up from this too or is that more rare? Hoping for it to just be Valvetronic Motor + DME at most, getting to that motor isn’t too bad, eccentric shaft seems a little more of a pita.

[Coupsoup]

Replacing the motor alone will not guarantee that. You need to check the harness the way I mentioned, then while the valve cover is off and the valvetronic motor removed you need to move the eccentric shaft through it's full range of motion to check for binding.

If the eccentric shaft moves freely without binding, and the harness doesn't have a short, then replace the motor and reassemble.

I recommend replacing the valve cover as just resealing it often results in an oil leak. The stupid plastic cover warps and will never seal again.