[PeanuKeeyes]

Hello everyone. New to the track. My 228i is my daily and I still owe $ on it. My mods are MPE and Dinan shockware.. There’s an E36 325i at my local shop for sale with a full fire suppression system, KW coilovers, roll cage and harness for very little $. . I’ve worked on BMW’s for years in the E30 and E34 era. I don’t have the same level confidence mucking around with the F22. (Yet)

What do y’all think? Just get a set of proper wheels/tires and hit the track in the 2 series?

Or

E36 clubsport style/non-M for the more “raw” approach to learning and less overall $ on the line?

I’m sure there are many things I’m not considering here, so any input is greatly appreciated.

[ralawren]

A square set up with decent tires (Re-71s or RS-4s) will help a lit. But if you are going to be pushing hard you will need to add negative camber. I do 2 HPDEs a year with my 228i with dedicated wheels/tires and Shockware. I have fun but am feel like I am waiting for the suspension to catch up. I am sure most of it is my driving style but the lack of responsiveness is also because of the stock front camber.

I am running 235/45/18 Hankook RS-4s on 18x8 42 wheels. I also tried Dinan Sportronic but didn't like it. The extra power wasn't noticeable on the straights of VIR but it made the throttle very sensitive. My driving through the corners was much smoother when I turned it off.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by PeanuKeeyes

Hello everyone. New to the track. My 228i is my daily and I still owe $ on it. My mods are MPE and Dinan shockware.. There’s an E36 325i at my local shop for sale with a full fire suppression system, KW coilovers, roll cage and harness for very little $. . I’ve worked on BMW’s for years in the E30 and E34 era, most recently installing a LSD on my E34 touring following the 5 speed conversion. I don’t have the same level confidence mucking around with the F22.

What do y’all think? Just get a set of proper wheels/tires and hit the track in the 2 series?

Or

E36 clubsport style/non-M for the more “raw” approach to learning and less $ on the line?

I’m sure there are many things I’m not considering here, so any input is greatly appreciated.

Having used both an E36 and an F22 at the track, I would suggest that the E36 is the smart move, in all ways except how fast you'll roll down the straights. It's certainly going to be much cheaper and a ton more fun in the corners; for me, that's a winning combination every time.

[msendit]

Originally Posted by PeanuKeeyes

What do y’all think? Just get a set of proper wheels/tires and hit the track in the 2 series?

Or

E36 clubsport style/non-M for the more “raw” approach to learning and less $ on the line?

Lots of things to consider. As others said, the E36 is the smart move, *if you end up going to the track often*. When you go often enough, the sticker price of the car is a small fraction of the overall cost -- most of it's in consumables (tires, brakes, fuel, etc) and repairs. At 500-1000 lbs lighter, the E36 is much more gentle on these.

On the other hand, they way you described it, it's a full built racecar -- no one puts a fire system to impress at cars & coffee, everyone does because it's mandated by a sanctioning body. That means two major things:

- "everything's a consumable". That applies to everything -- the engine, transmission, bodywork, even the frame. Chances are the car has been driven with that mindset and will require similar levels of maintenance. Learning with a street F22, your biggest problems will be swapping tires and brakes (maaaybe pouring oil every once in a while). With a 30-year-old racecar, things like a transmission swap become "just another Tuesday". Good news is, E36 parts are cheap, but you'd still need to spend the time / pay someone to fix it for you.

- getting a full on racecar to and from the track becomes more of a hassle. They tend to be loud, rattly, uncomfortable, no AC, no music, etc. Not to mention, race-level safety only works if your belts are very tight (think, you can't extend you shoulder to reach to the dash) and you have your helmet / neck protection on. Yes, many people drive cars with full race safety on the street, but just be aware it carries more risk when that texting SUV plows through the back of a fancy racecar.

Anyway, not trying to sound too negative about the E36 -- just be aware what you're getting yourself into.

I'd say: do a couple of events with the F22 as is (just put better brake fluid). If you end up more "meh" about the track (like 2-3 events a year), keep bringing your daily, maybe with a few upgrades here and there (camber, better tires, etc). If after these two events, you're reaction is more like "OMG, I'll spend every weekend and every dollar I have on the track!", go for the race E36 before you start the F22 upgrades. Either way, you can't go wrong!

[PeanuKeeyes]

I think you summed it up really well here. Thanks for the thoughtful reply! I really don’t think I’ll be a + 300hp person anytime soon. Controlling 240 ponies is my powertrain ceiling for the moment and these cars definitely seem to be solid platforms to start mastering that kind of power/weight.

The other factor prompting this E36 F22 “dilemma” is covid times — uncertain potential amounts of time at the house depending on how things go, especially as I work at a University. I’d like to have a new project I could work on if I end up shut in again.

Who am I kidding though? If I buy a project car, I will spend 3X as much as I predict and then likely do my first track year in my F22! The logical choice is to just start showing up and working on controlling what I have.

2 questions:

1 do you think LCA swap would introduce enough negative camber to forgo plates?

2 are my daily Conti extreme contact tires a suitable solution for getting started?


... And of course now there’s an S52 swapped E36is with H&R coilovers for sale 20 miles away on Craigslist for 3K.

[msendit]

Originally Posted by PeanuKeeyes

Who am I kidding though? If I buy a project car, I will spend 3X as much as I predict and then likely do my first track year in my F22!

Haha, that's such a fantastic summary of project car ownership... (saying this after another ... eventful... day at the track ziptiyng my own mid-90s project together in between sessions)

Originally Posted by PeanuKeeyes

2 questions:

1 do you think LCA swap would introduce enough negative camber to forgo plates?

2 are my daily Conti extreme contact tires a suitable solution for getting started?

1. No. People seem to report roughly -2 degrees from the F80 LCAs. That might be enough for your first few events, but then you'll be back to square one. Generally, on a strut suspension, the more body roll you have, the more static negative camber you need to compensate. I didn't keep the stock springs / swaybars long enough to know about them, but with stiffer springs / sways, at least -3 seemed to use the tires the best. Plus, fixed camber is not particularly great, it's one of the easiest / most powerful setup knobs you have, no point to deprive yourself of it.

If you insist on LCAs, I think SPL has adjustable ones for our chassis. Haven't tried them, but I do have their rear links and they're holding up well so far.

2. To get started, yes. Honestly, your first couple of days, it's likely you won't be pushing them anywhere near their limits. And that's perfectly fine -- there's usually years worth of street driving limits to unlearn -- and the best way to do that is to "race what you brought". Once you've pushed hard enough to see small chunks of the tire falling off, it's a good time to move to something that can handle the heat better.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by PeanuKeeyes

are my daily Conti extreme contact tires a suitable solution for getting started?

If they're the max summer performance ExtremeContacts, then yes; if they're the ultra high performance all-season ExtremeContacts, probably not.

This from a Tire Rack UHP all-season tire comparo:

"Despite the Ultra High Performance title, all-season tires from this group aren't built for track driving or even autocross use."

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests...y.jsp?ttid=241

[SkyeC]

I've tracked the summer version ExtremeContacts and they do the job well for a street tire, all things considered. You can usually get a few hot laps in before they start to get a bit greasy.

Echo above-- do adjustable camber plates in front and forget the LCA swap. Millway and Vorshlag make nice OEM-spring/strut options.

E36 of course is the most budget-friendly, but it's all relative. The 2 series, prob just swap brake pads, fluid, oil, tires, and that's it. E36... well, you're gonna swap everything at one point or another.

[PeanuKeeyes]

Update!

Today I showed up at Thompson Speedway for my first experience at a track. A ride in a Spec Miata and 370Z in the advanced and intermediate groups finally cleared up any doubts that I had regarding whether or not this track thing is for me. A fantastic day in all ways aside from an aggressive sun burn. I’m booking at least four more events this season!

The 228i felt like a boat after the first two ride-alongs which was a bit eye opening. Made me a tad jealous for the stripped down E36 ripping around. However, with the Dinan shockware tune, I swear the 2 series was just as capable of cornering as many of the spec’d out cars there, and my instructor was very surprised by how communicative and predictable it was. The DWS’s worked fine and got very sticky by the end and practically killed the “S” rating in 6 laps but I’m not sure getting a new setup is worth the money this late in the season. Brakes worked fantastic with hawk pads and stock fluid, recently flushed. Going from a harness to a standard seat belt was a major downgrade so that may be of highest priority, after wheels/tires.

The stock intercoolers seemed to work well. The highest temperature I had on track was 222F — I get it up to 235F on the highway going the speed limit.

Everyone at this event that I spoke with were terrific and approachable. A no drama day in the sun with cars and people who love to drive. Looking forward to Lime Rock, Club Motorsports, and more Thompson Speedway before November’s end.

Final thoughts on the F22 vs E36 (for now): The F22 chassis seems to have tremendous potential as a daily/tracktool. That being said, I won’t feel comfortable pushing it to its limit (my limit) as I need it to get to work... so, it will serve as a good daily/ “beginner” tracktool, until I decide to go crazy and put KW’s in my E34 touring and “find the limit” with that.

[msendit]

Originally Posted by PeanuKeeyes

Today I showed up at Thompson Speedway for my first experience at a track. A ride in a Spec Miata and 370Z in the advanced and intermediate groups finally cleared up any doubts that I had regarding whether or not this track thing is for me. A fantastic day in all ways aside from an aggressive sun burn. I’m booking at least four more events this season!

Awesome that you pulled the trigger! And that you already have 4 more events on the table. It's really addictive, isn't it?

Looking forward to see some onboard videos, so we can all armchair race here

[PeanuKeeyes]

Originally Posted by msendit

It's really addictive, isn't it?

Looking forward to see some onboard videos, so we can all armchair race here

Not going to lie, the spec Miata driven by a professional was the most aggressive thing I’ve ever experienced in a vehicle. Pretty inspiring. Super quick in the corners and that track is nothing but high speed bends. — the driver of the Nissan locked up the wheels entering turn 1 on an accidental downshift into first while going about 60 but recovered it with a glance over at me, correcting into second and calmly saying “there it is” before gunning into the apex. I am having trouble imagining myself handling a car like this in the near future but it was an addictive feeling being launched forward under hard braking and feeling the limits of traction around corners. I elected to do an autoX this weekend at Canaan before I head to the two day weekend at Club Motorsports’ 2.5 mile (very fast) track.

No GoPro footage this year I don’t think. I’m going to hold off on that until I have some seat time.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by PeanuKeeyes

I am having trouble imagining myself handling a car like this in the near future...

No GoPro footage this year I don’t think. I’m going to hold off on that until I have some seat time.

Rally school and winter car control clinics can speed your acquisition of significant car control skills. There's nothing quite like piloting a car with all four wheels loose on the surface at speeds that don't threaten you or the car. A plus is that in the case of rally school it won't be your car that you're driving.

This is the rally school I attended; I went for the first four days of the five-day school and developed major car control skills, the kind that you won't develop on a paved race track: https://www.teamoneil.com/.

It's major money, no question, but the skills just might keep you from wrecking a car. It did for me when my car pulled a fast one on me that resulted in a tank-slapper in T6 at the Glen. No way would I have saved that car without having attended rally school. The difference in cost was substantial, as T6 at the Glen is by far the turn most likely to result in a totaled car, which is what I was headed for if I hadn't reacted automatically to what the car was trying to do. The instructive thing is that it was all over before I had any time to think about it; my training allowed me to simply react, in real time, without thought, and in an incredibly short few tenths of seconds. I don't have the car's data during that event, but I'm thinking the drama was all over in less than three seconds total, maybe less.

The best part of all, for me at least, was it the most fun I've ever had in a car. The kicker is that it's not about the cars, which are very modest units – it's about the driving skills that you develop under the tutelage of excellent, committed instructors.

Another cool thing is that you're in the car a lot. That's been a major gripe of mine about some other forms of car control events – you're just not behind the wheel out on the course for very much time before the day is over. Karting is probably the best when it comes to having on-demand unlimited seat time that provides a legitimate car-control improvement opportunity.

Finally, you meet some very interesting fellow students. I was paired with a Marine captain whose day job was flying a rescue helicopter in Afghanistan. I learned something from watching him methodically follow the class and in-car instructions and steadily and consistently get better over the four days.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Another car-control exercise I've found useful is the Audi North Atlantic Chapter's winter driving events. They're generally held twice each winter up at the Team O'Neil facility in Dalton, NH. Normally, they'd be on their calendar by now, but they may not be scheduled due to Covid-19 and the fact that in-car instruction is involved, at least for most students. The cost of these events is modest, the Audi crowd is very social and friendly, and if the winter conditions are good it offers excellent (and fun!) skill-building exercises.

Audi NAC's site: https://audiclubna.org/north-atlantic/; and,

A listing for a previous event explaining what's on offer: https://audiclubna.org/north-atlanti...ary-27-28th-2/.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Besides having fun and getting rid of even more money, the main reason to do these sorts of events is to increase your margin of safety on the track. In my opinion, that's the real value they offer.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Don't get a GoPro to share video with others; instead, get it so that you can share what you did with yourself and your instructors. You'll learn faster by reviewing what you actually did, rather that what you remember doing. Put it up by the rear view mirror so that it's clear exactly where you're placing the car. That's more important than what you're doing with the wheel or anything else that might seem interesting to include in the image.

As always, my 2¢ – hopefully, some of it is of some use, now or later.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

P.S...

Originally Posted by PeanuKeeyes

The 228i felt like a boat after the first two ride-alongs which was a bit eye opening.

Our car's are boats, and they'll remain boats for the rest of their lives. The challenge is to learn to pilot a boat around a race track. I think they're a lot more fun on the open, high-speed tracks like the Glen, and more of a wrestling match on handling tracks like Palmer and Loudon.

Interestingly, Lime Rock is in-between in that regard. At the same time, to remain safe there requires a level of precision that many other tracks do not. To manage water runoff, the track has a pronounced crown, and the off-camber track-outs can be pretty exciting for the incautious driver.

To be fast there also requires a fair bit of...dare I suggest it...courage! There are three successive turns (the Uphill, West Bend, and the Downhill) that may be the most demanding three-turn section on any track in the Northeast.

Here are a couple of Bill Auberlen videos that I found useful in helping me get down into the 58s in the race car I used to run:

Bill Auberlen doing a demo lap of Lime Rock in a stock E92 M3 - April 27, 2010: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfb2R5MHKS0

Bill Auberlen running 59-second Grand-Am Continental Challenge GS Class practice laps on May 28, 2011: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56uANBa60LU.

Here also is a video where I demonstrate why your wheel must be straight as you approach the crest of the uphill:

https://vimeo.com/7733020.

Notice how my gloved right hand never returns to the nine o'clock position before cresting the hill. Oops!

Notice too all of the skids marks already made by drivers who'd made the same mistake. You'll see the current set of skid marks when you run there. My skills were very undeveloped at that time, and I was very lucky not to have wrecked the car. I waited a couple of more events before succeeding at doing that. That's when I decided to get serious about learning to drive better, starting with hiring a pro driver to coach me on every track I was running on.

[PeanuKeeyes]

Thank you for all the information! Great resources and suggestions. I will definitely look into the rally school, sounds like it would be a great thing to do this winter, if possible.

— More updates to follow as my seat time increases. The last of the season schedule:

October 10, 2020 New York Safety Track (NYST)
October 17, 2020 Club Motorsports
October 25, 2020 Palmer Motorsports Park
November 8, 2020 Canaan Motor Club

I’m resisting the urge to modify the car in any way while getting started. It’s already great.

With that said, here are some “modest” ideas for the future, sans engine/power mods:

fall work:

Driver
SCHROTH Quick Fit Pro 4P Harness
Typ 200 brake fluid
Driver
Try not to decimate Conti DWS’s

winter work:

GC or Vorschlag camber plates
Alcantara Coby wheel w/ 12 mark
Stainless brake lines by Turner

$pring/summer:

TR Motorsport C4 18x8 et40 245/35/18 x 4 MPS4S
Dinan springs/bump stops
Driver
Driver
Driver

2021-2022:

Hotchkis or H&R Swaybars w End Links
Quaife LSD

Am I missing anything obvious?

And keeping the original post alive, I found this picture today which really surprised me. Combined with the fact that I have a light version 228i -3,300#, this really gives me hope that my boat can feel as planted as the E36 someday.

UPDATE: ordered the SCHROTH Quick Fit Pro Harness
Doing oil and brake fluid tomorrow.
I have a feeling by this winter I’ll be posting my own track build thread LOL.

Here we go...

[ggggbmw]

I would suggest tweaking two things on your list.

First, move the LSD up in priority. It makes a huge difference in being able to power out of corners in a controlled manner. Since our car is piggy, and doesn't want to turn, applying the amazing torque exiting the corner is a huge equalizer. It makes daily driving better too.

Second, if you are buying a second set of wheels/tires for track use, don't put PS4's on them. Get a more track focused 200 rated tire, like an RE71, A052, or RS4. (I use the RS4 for the abuse they will take and long tread life.) The stiffer sidewall on these tires makes a huge difference in controlling turn-in, and you don't have to worry about rolling the front tires like the MPSS/PS4.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by ggggbmw

I would suggest tweaking two things on your list.

First, move the LSD up in priority. It makes a huge difference in being able to power out of corners in a controlled manner. Since our car is piggy, and doesn't want to turn, applying the amazing torque exiting the corner is a huge equalizer. It makes daily driving better too.

Second, if you are buying a second set of wheels/tires for track use, don't put PS4's on them. Get a more track focused 200 rated tire, like an RE71, A052, or RS4. (I use the RS4 for the abuse they will take and long tread life.) The stiffer sidewall on these tires makes a huge difference in controlling turn-in, and you don't have to worry about rolling the front tires like the MPSS/PS4.

I think these are both good ideas, too.

[PeanuKeeyes]

Right on. Thanks for the advice.

Is there a 5 or 6 point harness that clips in to oem sport seats like the 4 point Schroth I just ordered? — I’m not too worried about it just this second but I’ve heard enough horror stories of people sliding under the dash in a 4 point. I really don’t want to put a bar in the back as it’s my daily, but maybe I’m overthinking.

[PeanuKeeyes]

Ok, so once I get the ball really rolling, this will become a new thread. I appreciate that nobody has deployed the off-topic emoji!

I wanted to include a rough outline of cost, as that is frequently left out of these sorts of discussions and it’s easy to want to dump tons of money all at once. I’m trying to set my fun-budget at around 3-4K a season — that Rally school may be a hard exception though.

So with that restriction in mind, I think I’ve struck a decent daily/tracktool build-schedule that will accommodate my skills as I improve and get to know the car.

Year 1: ~ $2,300.00
- [x] Turner tow strap
- [x] SCHROTH Quick Fit Pro 4P Harness X2
- [x] Alpinestars
- [x] Bell helmet
- [x] DOT 4 brake fluid/ oil/filter X2
- [x] Book events
- [ ] finish all events with car in one piece

Year 2: ~ $4,000.00
- [ ] TR Motorsport C4 17x8 et40 245/40/17 x 4 Toyo R888 or RS4 $1,600-2,000
- [ ] Ground control camber plates $1,100.00 installed -2.5 degrees
- [ ] OE rear camber -1.5/2
- [ ] book events for the season

Year 3: $5,000.00
- [ ] Diffsonline 3.91 LSD ~ $3,500 - $4,000
- [ ] events

Things are always subject to change but this feels relatively doable and the modifications will keep the daily driving comfortable enough. As always, opinions/further insight appreciated. Are there things I am really just going to want? Like bushings? Sway bar end links, Etc?

This has all been so helpful, can’t get enough of this forum. thank you all for your input.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by PeanuKeeyes

Diffsonline 3.91 LSD ~ $3,500 - $4,000

Is this the diff Dan recommends for your use case?

I ask because he recommended the Wavetrac to me; it's also the unit I would have chosen for myself for street/track duty.

[pikcachu]

Originally Posted by PeanuKeeyes

Ok, so once I get the ball really rolling, this will become a new thread. I appreciate that nobody has deployed the off-topic emoji!

I wanted to include a rough outline of cost, as that is frequently left out of these sorts of discussions and it’s easy to want to dump tons of money all at once. I’m trying to set my fun-budget at around 3-4K a season — that Rally school may be a hard exception though.

So with that restriction in mind, I think I’ve struck a decent daily/tracktool build-schedule that will accommodate my skills as I improve and get to know the car.

Year 1: ~ $2,300.00
- [x] Turner tow strap
- [x] SCHROTH Quick Fit Pro 4P Harness X2
- [x] Alpinestars
- [x] Bell helmet
- [x] DOT 4 brake fluid/ oil/filter X2
- [x] Book events
- [ ] finish all events with car in one piece

Year 2: ~ $4,000.00
- [ ] TR Motorsport C4 17x8 et40 245/40/17 x 4 Toyo R888 or RS4 $1,600-2,000
- [ ] Ground control camber plates $1,100.00 installed -2.5 degrees
- [ ] OE rear camber -1.5/2
- [ ] book events for the season

Year 3: $5,000.00
- [ ] Diffsonline 3.91 LSD ~ $3,500 - $4,000
- [ ] events

Things are always subject to change but this feels relatively doable and the modifications will keep the daily driving comfortable enough. As always, opinions/further insight appreciated. Are there things I am really just going to want? Like bushings? Sway bar end links, Etc?

This has all been so helpful, can’t get enough of this forum. thank you all for your input.

You are missing brake pads and rotors....
and tires depending how many events you do

[PeanuKeeyes]

Originally Posted by pikcachu

You are missing brake pads and rotors....
and tires depending how many events you do

True! I was also reminded that the battery is due next year I need a second job..

I think my maintenance schedule so far has been pretty good and I’ll have to wait and see on the brake and tire consumption rate.

So it looks more like $5k - $7k a year to maintain, modestly improve, and track the car, assuming nothing major goes wrong and that does not even include all booking costs, fuel or HPDE insurance... what am I getting myself into!? Haha

My maintenance schedule has been 4-5k mile oil changes, multiple brake fluid flushes, one coolant flush, oem spark plugs and new brake pads. Rotors still look good. Will replace whole assembly once I kill these Hawk pads.
100k miles is just around the corner the rate I drive.

Purchased Feb 2019 with 18K miles:

- [x] 18,000 miles:
- MP exhaust
- Brake fluid flush
- Oil/filter
- Changed owners

- [x] 23,000 miles:
- oil/filter
- Intake filter

- [x] 28,000 miles:
- oil/filter
- cabin filter changed and air system cleaned.

- [x] 33,000 miles:
- New tires: three season Continental Extreme Contact. - Tire Rack
- Coolant flush
- Oil/Filter

- [x] 34,000 miles:
- Front/rear coil springs returned to OEM with new strut mounts
- Brake pads HAWK performance

- [x] 37,000 miles:
- Oil/filter
- Spark plugs OEM

- [x] 40,000 miles:
- Intake filter
- P3 OBDII vent gauge

- [x] 41,500 Miles:
- Brake fluid flush OEM
- oil/filter

- [x] 42,000 miles
- Intake air box returned to stock. (Injen delete) New filter
- DINAN Shockware

- [x] 47,000 miles:
- Oil/filter
- Brake fluid flush DOT4
- Bell helmet
- Turner tow strap
- Schroth harness

Coming up:

- [ ] 52,000 miles:
- New battery with programming
- Oil/filter
- Ground Control camber plates
- OE rear camber adjustment

- [ ] 55,000 miles:
- Oil/filter
- TR Motorsport C4 17” wheels with tires for track duty

- [ ] 60,000 miles:
- Oil/filter
- stainless brake lines
- HAWK performance brake pads
- Rotors: oem
- Brake fluid flush
- Continental DWS tires: daily’s

- [ ] 65,000 miles:
- Oil/filter
- Cabin air filter
- Wavetrac LSD or stock diff fluid change

- [ ] 70,000 miles:
- Oil/filter
- Spark plugs OEM
- Coolant flush
- New set of track day tires

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by PeanuKeeyes

So it looks more like $5k - $7k a year to maintain, modestly improve, and track the car, assuming nothing major goes wrong and that does not even include all booking costs, fuel or HPDE insurance... what am I getting myself into!? Haha

I went to three three-day events last year, and my cost was $492/day for a total of $4,432. It would have been $531/day and $4,777 if I hadn't instructed at one of the events. Included are a garage at $52/day and insurance at $89/day. The maintenance included was an annual oil change and a brake flush with SRF prior to each event.

Not included in those figures are tires and pads (I was still using R888R/DTC-70 that were new for the 2018 season) or any improvements to the car (I installed an H&R front sway bar and a Dinan Elite V2 before the third event).

[lufsig]

Originally Posted by dradernh

I went to three three-day events last year, and my cost was $492/day for a total of $4,432. It would have been $531/day and $4,777 if I hadn't instructed at one of the events. Included are a garage at $52/day and insurance at $89/day. The maintenance included was an annual oil change and a brake flush with SRF prior to each event.

Not included in those figures are tires and pads (I was still using R888R/DTC-70 that were new for the 2018 season) or any improvements to the car (I installed an H&R front sway bar and a Dinan Elite V2 before the third event).

How do you like the H&R front sway bar, I know there are not much options for this on the market (only other brands I know are Hotchkis and Dinan) and I wonder how does the H&R compare to those? I'm also looking at replacing the front sway bar, knowing it's a pretty expensive job to do, wondering how much does it improve the car's handling.