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2Addicts | BMW 2-Series forum Technical Topics Mechanical Maintenance and TSBs: Break-in | Oil & Fluids | Servicing | TSB Changing brake pads

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      04-28-2018, 12:25 PM   #1
MarcoZandrini
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Changing brake pads

I tracked my car at Virginia international Raceway (VIR) over the first weekend of April. I've bought PFC-08 pads for both the front and the rear brakes. I checked on realoem, but it's unclear if the caliper has to be removed to change pads. However, the new pads have holes at the top of the backing plate so am I safe to assume that I can change them without removing the caliper?

Thanks!
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      04-28-2018, 01:35 PM   #2
123Britt
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Brembo - NO

Not required to remove caliper. 2 pins and spring clip.
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      04-28-2018, 01:38 PM   #3
ScottSinger
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SEARCH on this forum for a thread about brake piston retraction tool

And https://www.racingbrake.com/product-p/ccp01.htm
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      04-28-2018, 08:47 PM   #4
MarcoZandrini
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Fantastic! I thought I would have to pull the caliper. Thatís a bit of work!

Many thanks!
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      04-28-2018, 09:00 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcoZandrini View Post
Fantastic! I thought I would have to pull the caliper. Thatís a bit of work!

Many thanks!
I actually like brake calipers where you slide off the caliper slide pin bolts to remove the pads. But I guess at the track the Brembo style system is easier.
I suggest not using a pry bar against the disc to press the piston back in.
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      05-01-2018, 11:08 PM   #6
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OMG! That is about the worst video on how to change the pads in our car that I have ever seen. What a bunch of clowns. But then again, if these dopes can do it, you can see that anybody can do it. You certainly can't do worse.

Biggest tip I can offer over this video is to push the pads back against the piston while the pads are still in place. If you open a bleeder screw (with a catch bottle attached), you can push the pistons back with your bare hands. Maybe stick a screwdriver in between the pads and disc to push back if the pads are really worn. This also solves the 'how do I push both pistons at the same time' issue if you do it while the pads are still in there.
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      05-02-2018, 08:16 AM   #7
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for the pfc08's, just zip tie your sensors into the wheel well and re connect them when you put your street pads back in.

They are amazing pads, loud as fck tho. Remember to change your brake fluid to a higher boiling point.
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      05-02-2018, 10:10 AM   #8
MarcoZandrini
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggggbmw View Post
Biggest tip I can offer over this video is to push the pads back against the piston while the pads are still in place. If you open a bleeder screw (with a catch bottle attached), you can push the pistons back with your bare hands. Maybe stick a screwdriver in between the pads and disc to push back if the pads are really worn. This also solves the 'how do I push both pistons at the same time' issue if you do it while the pads are still in there.
Yeah, that's how I've changed pads in my bimmers for years. Works great.
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      05-02-2018, 10:11 AM   #9
MarcoZandrini
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryan_f22 View Post
for the pfc08's, just zip tie your sensors into the wheel well and re connect them when you put your street pads back in.

They are amazing pads, loud as fck tho. Remember to change your brake fluid to a higher boiling point.
I'm flushing the brake fluid with Motul R600. Thanks for the tip about the pad wear sensors. I'll bring some zip ties.

Last edited by MarcoZandrini; 05-04-2018 at 03:58 PM..
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      05-07-2018, 05:48 PM   #10
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My tip that I don't see mentioned often. Crack open the reservoir cap on the fluid before pushing the calipers back. Make sure the area is completely clean before cracking open the cap.

Don't forget to tighten the cape when done!
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      05-11-2018, 12:12 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony235 View Post
My tip that I don't see mentioned often. Crack open the reservoir cap on the fluid before pushing the calipers back. Make sure the area is completely clean before cracking open the cap.

Don't forget to tighten the cape when done!
Actually, I usually remove some the fluid in the reservoir before I push the pads back into the calipers. I've seen people get nasty brake fluid running down their firewall. BAD!
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      05-11-2018, 01:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcoZandrini View Post
Actually, I usually remove some the fluid in the reservoir before I push the pads back into the calipers. I've seen people get nasty brake fluid running down their firewall. BAD!
I would recommend that they just bleed out the old fluid in the calipers and top off the reservoir as needed, instead of not bleeding and taking out what's in the reservoir. This allows for fresh fluid all-around and no need to worry about overflow in reservoir.
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      05-11-2018, 03:53 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcoZandrini View Post
Actually, I usually remove some the fluid in the reservoir before I push the pads back into the calipers. I've seen people get nasty brake fluid running down their firewall. BAD!
That shouldn't happen unless it's already overfilled to begin with. Either way the point is that it's a sealed system and the cap should be cracked open while spreading the calipers open.
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      05-27-2019, 10:07 AM   #14
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Shorter video with less fooling around:
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      08-08-2019, 10:18 AM   #15
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is anybody bleeding their brakes every time they swap pads? I feel like the brake pedal on this car is mushy in general and I canít tell if itís mushier now that I have done a couple brake pad swaps ( with cracking the reservoir each time)
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      08-08-2019, 10:07 PM   #16
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Opening the cap on the reservoir doesn't introduce air into the brake lines. Brake fluid does absorb water over time, so flushing it every 2-3 years is a good idea.
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      08-08-2019, 10:17 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in VA View Post
Opening the cap on the reservoir doesn't introduce air into the brake lines. Brake fluid does absorb water over time, so flushing it every 2-3 years is a good idea.
That is music to my ears. I have been stressing out that I have cracked it 3 times in the last month and may have put a ton of air in the system
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