[bryan_G01]

never had any problems until i hit 2 potholes.

After having pot hole #2 take out driver front, pot hole #1 take out passenger front, broke both apex rims, struts, nuckles, etc. it started.

had bmw fix both times. Now, when im really on the car, only during WOT, arond 5th gear, it throws a drivetrain malf. It affects the car in no way. no loss of power, can still select all suspension options, everything is fine, no codes are thrown and resets when car is turned off/on. Its just the fact the car kicks a light, its kinda wonky.

Any ideas, its a awd car.

Im thinking its the awd system, is probably fuked in the driver front and needs replaced.

[bryan_G01]

going to try replacing driver side acceleromator and sensors... who knows.

[MarcoZandrini]

Take the car to the dealer. It’s under warranty.

[overcoil]

cracked charge pipe ?

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by bryan_f22

going to try replacing driver side acceleromator and sensors... who knows.

Update?

[bryan_G01]

update...

Car is not under warrenty and issue occured after going to bmw service...

After running ista, it brought my attention away from suspension and to the TMAP.
Seems from taking my piggy back on and off a few hundred times in 3 years, the wires connecting to the TMAP sensor , or a jb+, or dinan, etc.. frayed. 1 out of the 4 is broken through the shielding and exposed broken copper. Purchased a connector from BMS ( thanks Terry) and a pig tail off ebay ( not sure about this) to just solder in and replace. I also picked up a new TMAP sensor.

https://www.ebay.com/i/253041265133

Will get this done asap because now im only showing max hp of 200 in my sport meters with a tq of about 300.

[bryan_G01]

so i went to look at the wire again today, and unwrapping my electrical tape, snapped the wire.

So now one wire is completely disconnected. Instant drive train malfunction when starting the car, but oddly enough the burbles and exhaust sounds so epic right now.

Only limited to half power, but it sounds amazing... gotta get this fixed today if i can find the time.

[aerobod]

If you have access to a good crimping tool, it would be better to either crimp new matching pins on to the existing cable if you have enough spare cable length, or put in a new connector or crimped splice. Soldering tends to make the joint too rigid and prone to vibration induced fracture, compared with a high quality crimp when the correct tool is used.

[bryan_G01]

got wires sorted, those new heat shrink & solder tubes are pretty amazing. Ordering a new cable anyhow.. only 250$.

changed MAF (really the tmap) sensor.

I have to give it like 2k rpm and it starts up fine, starts to bog a lil, i give it more gas and it gets thru... NO CEL.

If i let it just start on its on, I still get the P0238 current fault - Turbo boost sensor A high.

Pending : b2aa, P0234, P10f0..



Left it running outside for 25 mins, went out, wasnt running. Went to start, didnt start...Flooded. Waietd a min Started and gave it gas, CEL came on. starting to really not like this car at the moment.

[bryan_G01]

So replaced both the MAF and MAP sensors.

Still has issue, it has to be the cable/ harness. Dropping it off at bmw to replace the harness today.


I would also mention to anyone, if you are around 40k miles, go out and change your sensors....

My MAP was coated in oil, and the car run immediately better when i changed the sensors.

The MAF is like 100$, and MAP was 189$ - or around that area. BMW wont replace them under warranty, just like Tranny fluid for life. Your car will thank you by running smoother and having a much quieter idle.


Once i replace my harness, i will update everyone. I also suspect the turbo actuator is about to go next....

[bryan_G01]

here are the codes i'm still getting...


If you get this, start by looking at the charge pipe, intake pipes, and your harness by the tmap sensor.


Look for p0234 and p0238

[hwntime]

Originally Posted by bryan_f22

So replaced both the MAF and MAP sensors.

Still has issue, it has to be the cable/ harness. Dropping it off at bmw to replace the harness today.


I would also mention to anyone, if you are around 40k miles, go out and change your sensors....

My MAP was coated in oil, and the car run immediately better when i changed the sensors.

The MAF is like 100$, and MAP was 189$ - or around that area. BMW wont replace them under warranty, just like Tranny fluid for life. Your car will thank you by running smoother and having a much quieter idle.


Once i replace my harness, i will update everyone. I also suspect the turbo actuator is about to go next....

Wow, MAP and MAF sensors need changing at 40k?! I swear, this F22 has been nothing but issues for me. I drove Infiniti's (G35 and G37) then went to BMW and had no issues with my Z3 and E92 335i but this F22 has been crap. Squeaks and creaks all throughout the interior, clunks in the suspension, iDrive shutting off and on even after screen and head unit were replaced. Still no fix for the issue. Now the MAP and MAF covered in oil after 40k?

[bryan_G01]

pushing 21.9 psi of boost for 3 years, yea it had some blowback.

my car is nothing to compare to a regualr 2er on the road tho.


If you are getting a rough idle, replace them. If your cheap, don't.

[bryan_G01]

update -

so looks like bmw did absolutely nothing. I asked for a harness replacement, they said they tested it out and everything looked good for voltage. I call BS on this tbh.

I asked them to reprogram the whole car. Lets see what happens. I asked the SA, Did they tell you to get this car outta here? He's like yuP! In his im selling you voice, so at least he was honest.

Im going to have to buy a harness and do it myself in the next few weeks. real oem time.

Im' going to have to get the car flashed again. or just dump it... i think its time to move on honestly... Put stock DP back on and muffler, just dump it.

If anyone in NY area wants a Stage 2 lpfp, come swap it out... its yours. get the special tool you need tho.
for real. just take it. but i need your oem.

[designatedposter]

you should have disclosed that you're running 22psi when you stated that maf and tmap sensor need replacing at 40k. that's more than twice stock boost and still 50 percent more than people in stage 2 off the shelf tunes.

[bryan_G01]

Originally Posted by designatedposter

you should have disclosed that you're running 22psi when you stated that maf and tmap sensor need replacing at 40k. that's more than twice stock boost and still 50 percent more than people in stage 2 off the shelf tunes.

Another one.. Do some research before you type an opinion with no facts at all.

You should replace your sensor at 40k-50k regardless as precautionary maintenance. Read some other threads where ppl had rough idle, replaced sensor and was fixed.

Stage 2 tunes are typically 18psi. A jb+ or dinan sport bring its to 12/15. Everyone following knows my car. if you don't, now you do.

[bryan_G01]

I doubt i need to change both, but just to be safe i ordered both harnesses and adapter.

Still cheaper than BMW wanted to charge me doing nothing.


Part Number Part Name Price Quantity Total
12-51-7-646-880 Wiring Harness Eng Sensori 121051MO $294.21
12-51-8-638-007 Adapter 12999951 $20.01
12-51-8-601-842 Engine Harness $294.21 1
Subtotal: $608.43
Estimated Shipping: $84.02 - overnight
Total: $692.45

[designatedposter]

Originally Posted by bryan_f22

Another one.. Do some research before you type an opinion with no facts at all.

You should replace your sensor at 40k-50k regardless as precautionary maintenance. Read some other threads where ppl had rough idle, replaced sensor and was fixed.

Stage 2 tunes are typically 18psi. A jb+ or dinan sport bring its to 12/15. Everyone following knows my car. if you don't, now you do.

what other preventive maintenance do you recommend or heard of at 40k?

[bryan_G01]

• tranny fluid at 50k.
• Plugs every 30k if tuned, every 50k if not.
• Air filter is probably dead at 40k as well and should be replaced.
• Check your rotors as they probably need to be replaced if theres a lip, check inside and outside front and back.
  
  all i can think of other than checking for boost leaks, o-rings by intake air pipe and oil filter are known to age and fail.
  
  The radiator overfill hose is known to break right around 30-50k mi, should change this before it bursts on you. Another shitty plastic part that cracks from exposure to heat, just like the charge pipe.

[bryan_G01]

Update:

Car has been reflashed to stock, re programmed every module back to oem.

No more CEL. one of the pins on the connector wasnt making a good connection so after that plus a reflash everything went away.

[bryan_G01]

Just bought bootmod3, gonna flash it tommorow and see what happens.

[M235SDCA]

Bryan, what flash did you have before?