07-29-2015, 03:01 PM | #67 |
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07-29-2015, 07:18 PM | #68 |
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Got confirmation that the car is all done and ready for pickup!! Now I have to wait for the gf to get off work so she can help me bring back one of the cars
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07-29-2015, 10:03 PM | #69 |
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07-30-2015, 08:10 PM | #72 |
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WHEW Glad to see her back on the road again!!!
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07-31-2015, 06:38 AM | #73 |
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Good to see the car is back on the road !
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07-31-2015, 08:20 AM | #74 |
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Thanks guys for the warm welcomes! Everything has been running smoothly. I've put about 60 miles on her so far but have to wait a few hundred more miles for the break in period before I start driving her spiritedly again.
I actually got approached by a tuning company yesterday and it looks like I'll be running their tune shortly. I'll release more details on that as soon as I get the go from them. |
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07-31-2015, 11:14 AM | #75 | |
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Glad it's back on the road brother!
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07-31-2015, 06:54 PM | #78 | |
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08-02-2015, 12:00 PM | #79 | |
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08-03-2015, 01:20 AM | #80 | |
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08-03-2015, 02:13 PM | #81 | |
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People have even blown up stock N20's! It's only a matter of miles before it would happen again... |
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08-03-2015, 02:47 PM | #82 | |
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08-03-2015, 02:55 PM | #83 | |
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But it is already evident that the blocks in these N20's is NOT strong, even stock. So adding any power, even stage 1 (which fyi is not proof of anything), is pretty much asking for trouble. Just because it's not a power house engine, doesn't mean it can handle extra power. EDIT: p.s. i am just going off of what i've been told by friends who are techs at the local dealership who have seen 2 or 3 228i's in completely stock with blown motors... Last edited by alexc93; 08-03-2015 at 03:02 PM.. |
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08-06-2015, 01:11 AM | #84 | ||
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However those brave pioneering souls that have gone above the 'safe' zone have discovered that the Conrod bolts, conrods and pistons can't take more than about 23-25psi. Read GSR's thread. Their engine let go up around 400lbft torque. I believe it was down to a Conrod bolt stretching and associated Conrod being thrown. It should be noted though that this is for a racing scenario and they were trying to find the limits, and doing so scientifically I might add. They have also discovered that the oil pressure drops to nothing under hard braking and certain cornering situations. So the word is a baffled pan is being looked into. Clearly if you tune the N20 you should think about other precautions. For the N20 it appears you should start with colder plugs. the F80-S55 "high power" ones are a few steps colder than the Stock N20 plugs, they fit and definitely help with any knock-preignition, which seems like it had a big role in the other failures. They made my engine run so much better after the tune and bolt-on's. Chargepipes are also a worthwhile investment as is a better intercooler. The stock Chargepipes have been know to pop and the intercooler heat soaks quickly and doesn't cope very well with the added heat rejection requirements of greater boost and mass flow at higher temps. The result is much higher intake temps and higher chance of knock when you push it. So better FMIC with more surface area can bring those temps back to stock temps, but with the higher flow and boost. Finally a DV+ kit for the fragile diverter valve is inexpensive (though it's a pain to install), so maybe should make the list too. Anyway welcome back e46m3lol glad it worked out for you man, and that you didn't need a complete new engine. Slightly sad that you didn't go down the forged internals path... But at least it's good to hear GSR are looking at it. |
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08-20-2015, 07:18 PM | #85 | |
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08-20-2015, 07:21 PM | #86 |
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Do you know if the guy who worked on the engine was Alex@ABR Houston? I talked to him a while ago (about a year) and he told me he's rebuilt quite a few hydrolocked N20s but with stock parts. However he's mentioned it was possible to use N54 parts.
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08-20-2015, 08:28 PM | #87 | |
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