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      11-26-2019, 06:48 AM   #815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robimplicit View Post
Great idea. Thanks.
I checked and seems the ASD and main amplifier have different part numbers but the numbers for the speakers are the same.
The amps may be the same too, check with your dealer. They keep changing the part numbers for some reason and the part is identical. When I had to check basement for my stock HK amp dealer sent me half a dozen part numbers it could be so I could check my pile of stuff.
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      12-07-2019, 08:17 AM   #816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BEM-S4 View Post
I'll post a detailed writeup with photos when I do my F23 in a week or so. F31 I did quickly and didn't take any pics. Process is the same for both.

Reach out to TechnicPNP for the wiring solution, depending on your aftermarket amp might be a little different than what I used.
Unfortunately, TechnicPNP responded that your harness was a one-off. That is too bad, since it is a PITA to have to swap the amps on order to get the car's programming upgraded. I am surprised that Bavsound does not offer such a harness as an alternative when you get an amp from them.
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      12-07-2019, 11:19 AM   #817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctemkin View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by BEM-S4 View Post
I'll post a detailed writeup with photos when I do my F23 in a week or so. F31 I did quickly and didn't take any pics. Process is the same for both.

Reach out to TechnicPNP for the wiring solution, depending on your aftermarket amp might be a little different than what I used.
Unfortunately, TechnicPNP responded that your harness was a one-off. That is too bad, since it is a PITA to have to swap the amps on order to get the car's programming upgraded. I am surprised that Bavsound does not offer such a harness as an alternative when you get an amp from them.
I spoke with the Bavsound guys they may offer it as an option in the future.
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      12-12-2019, 03:52 PM   #818
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Working my way through applying some of these great suggestions but I am having a problem: installed the Eton door speakers and now I have no sound from the right door. Checked the settings and the connections, tried reinstalling the original speaker but still no sound from the right door only! Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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      12-17-2019, 03:29 PM   #819
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferraricare View Post
Working my way through applying some of these great suggestions but I am having a problem: installed the Eton door speakers and now I have no sound from the right door. Checked the settings and the connections, tried reinstalling the original speaker but still no sound from the right door only! Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Since it is unlikely that both speakers are dead they you may have cut a wire some how or shorted one with a screw or pinch.
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      12-31-2019, 03:10 PM   #820
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Jehnert components

I am surprised no one here has brought up the Jehnert components, considering how rave the reviews of their 8” drivers are. People say then Jehnert are better than the much more expensive Focals not to mention everything else. Seems it would stand to reason that their other speaker drivers would be excellent too. Very attractive pricing.

https://www.jehnert.de/en/produkt-ka...s/f20-5-doors/

https://www.jehnert.de/en/shop/speak...drange-driver/

Maybe it is the case that, since we don’t speak German, we only really know about common US products. Meanwhile, I wouldn’t be surprised if over on the German forums no one cares about Bavsound etc and “everyone know” Jehnert is the best.
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      12-31-2019, 04:12 PM   #821
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It would be great if there was someone here who could go to a German forum to see what the consensus there seems to be.

Here everyone seems to go for Eton because it is easy, Morel because it is what an installer called Musicar uses, or JL Audio because they saw someone else doing it here.

But maybe if people had tried other things then we would have discovered that something else was better.
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      01-06-2020, 04:46 PM   #822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radio3 View Post
to see what the consensus there seems to be.
I hear you - it all boils down to personal preference in the end since its very subjective. Most people simply haven't heard enough types of speakers to make a comparison as to what sounds like what, only a shop or audio hobbyist.

(And it depends on whether you are running off the factory amp, or an aftermarket amp)
(And of course it depends if you are using crossovers included with the speakers and not designed for your interior, or aftermarket crossovers/active crossovers that can be tweaked - because then the tune gets even more subjective)

"luckily" the 4"/100mm size with shallow depth leaves with you only a few options to choose from
Even fewer come in a BMW tri-ring mount.

If you try what's been tested you know you'll get a good sounding system since others did the leg work.

Seth
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      01-08-2020, 02:46 PM   #823
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Finally found time to take a fresh look at this issue: visibly checked the wiring, checked connections and still no luck. One thing I have noticed is that the speakers crackle sometimes when I open the door. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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      01-08-2020, 07:13 PM   #824
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Sounds like you might want to check the wiring again. Good luck.
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      02-24-2020, 05:54 PM   #825
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I just replaced the rear deck speakers on 2017 HK system

THe JL speakers were available on Amazon for around $90 dollars, they arrived the next day. I didn't have the wiring harness, so I clipped the connector and crimped wires to the spade connection supplied with the JL speakers with no issues.

Note to self: buy a real crimping tool if you ever do something like this again!

I did read about the non-intuitive polarity of the driver side rear speaker where the Brown striped wire is actually the positive, so I went ahead and did as described in another post. I was a bit scared of that one, but it sounds fine to my ears so I'm pretty sure that is a valid recommendation.

Sound is much improved, thanks for the posts that gave me the confidence to do this easy upgrade.
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      02-28-2020, 10:43 AM   #826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferraricare View Post
Finally found time to take a fresh look at this issue: visibly checked the wiring, checked connections and still no luck. One thing I have noticed is that the speakers crackle sometimes when I open the door. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
How old is the battery? Do the speakers crackle even when the car is off?
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      02-28-2020, 09:04 PM   #827
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Good call but discovered it was the tweeter jumper lead provided by the speaker company. They sent a new one and problem solved. Thanks for responding!
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      02-29-2020, 11:53 AM   #828
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Match UP-7BMW

does not fit my 2018 M240i (8/17 build) with the HK audio! There are no screw holes in the mounting plate and the main connector is different. WTF! I'll have to return it to Crutchfield.

Update: Doug from MSC America sent me info that wasn't included in the box. There are 2 vertical bars in the amp's supplied connector harness that need to be removed. I sharpened an old narrow blade screwdriver and used it like a chisel. Worked perfectly. The connectors went together perfectly. Found the new mounting plate in the bottom of the box (DOH). Go it all set up and lit it off. Worked fine. Attached the supplied usb cable to the amp and to the (Dell) laptop. Lit off the app and it showed "disconnected."!!! Reloaded the driver, and rebooted. Still no go. Tried a different usb port on the laptop. No go. The laptop chimes when the usb cable is connected to or disconnected from one of the computer's ports Left a message with Doug. I'll keep you updated.

Update: No response from Doug. Called Crutchfield tech support. Not much help though the tech said I did everything right. Sent an email ti AF.

Last edited by MarcoZandrini; 03-07-2020 at 01:44 PM..
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      03-04-2020, 11:55 AM   #829
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Eton door speakers installed, but treble weak

So I bought the Etons from Madisound, and had them installed in the "Harmon Kardon" garbage system in my M240i. Plus crossovers. But I didn't watch the install. The Eton tweeters are working, but with terrible rolloff above 5K. I have to turn the treble up all the way to be even close to sounding right, and it still sounds unnatural (though not the muffled yet ear-stabbing pain of the stock speakers).

What gives? Anyone else had this problem? Did my installer mess up some how?

Thanks. I also put the self-contained 10" sub I used in my G35 in the trunk. There's a buzz I need to track down, but that gave the car real bass. I'm happy with that. But cymbals still sound wrong.
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      03-05-2020, 01:34 PM   #830
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Yes, the upper end of the Eton is somewhat attenuated but the rest of the Eton sound is exceptionally clean and smooth for a car speaker even at high volume. You can correct the problem with a set of rear deck speakers that can compensate at the upper end and then you can adjust the front-rear balance to taste. Of course there are more expensive ways to address the issue.

Last edited by selmeralto; 03-29-2020 at 08:17 PM..
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      03-28-2020, 10:30 PM   #831
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I have the BASE UK system (not H&K or HiFi) in my M235i and I am extremely confused.

I have ordered the tweeter covers, etons and the JL audio rears.

1) The base system doesn't have an amp as far as I'm aware?

2)Will my base system be able to power both the new front and back speakers?

3) If not, I am extremely confused as to how to upgrade the amp if I don't already have one, is it even possible and if it is how is it done, do I need these special technik harnes?

4) Can someone please help and/or recommended a fairly cheap amp (£250 or less ideally) as I am already at my budget for upgrading the sound system.

I am extremely out of my depth where it comes to audio and I only really know about the engine side of things, praying I'm not going to have to send my speakers back
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      04-01-2020, 12:39 PM   #832
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Has anyone tried Rockford Fosgate P142s? I found an electronics page that said they fit, but that just might be because they are the same general size.
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      04-11-2020, 12:23 AM   #833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H2O_Doc View Post
Has anyone tried Rockford Fosgate P142s? I found an electronics page that said they fit, but that just might be because they are the same general size.
Did the JLs and I'd say they are worth the investment. Pigtails seem unnecessary.
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      05-05-2020, 08:08 PM   #834
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So the JL Audio speakers everyone seems to be using are no running ~$130 us for the pair. I read all the comments about their low sensitivity - would it be beneficial to look for something with a higher sensitivity so that it's not necessary to fade the system so far to the rear to balance F/R?

Looking at something like this in same price range...these Audiotecs are actually matched specifically to BMW's

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_975MS4...-1.html?tp=102

Same price as the JLs and 92 sensitivity...

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_301DCX...-3.html?tp=102

Or for a few bucks more and 92 sensitivity...

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_301CX1...00.html?tp=102

Thoughts?
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      05-05-2020, 10:21 PM   #835
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After a year with the 2 convertible's new setup -- Hi-Fi, new HK sail panels, Etons in the doors and sails, and disconnecting stock front (dash) center ....

The potential is there, but midrange is bright for me ... and I like Grado sound.

Adjustable midrange would be perfect. Maybe the HK system has that, Hi-Fi does not. No surprise. What would it cost to add that digital logic to the controller?

Fortunately most of the time I'm bluetoothing in with availability of digital equalization from the source program and can soften up the sound .. which I know from an audiophile's perspective is a crummy solution but with the road noise of a soft-top car with RF tires and apparently little sound deadening (my main complaint with the car) ... the solution is fine. The Etons really cleaned up the harshness of the $2 transistor radio speakers the "Hi-Fi" system came with. When I removed those and couldn't even feel their weight in my hand ... couldn't believe it. Have removed speakers from base 1980s cars which put those to shame.

At a cost of about $400 for the HK sail panels and Eton kit ... totally worth it, because luckily the HiFi has subs with reasonable extension. It's not a loud system, but it's now at a level I'd have expected from a decent stock system.
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      05-08-2020, 01:57 AM   #836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by selmeralto View Post
(With apologies to Stanley Kubrick.)

What follows is a relatively low-cost way to make the Harmon Kardon audio system sound good.

The original post is in black. My updates are in red. There have been many comments and updates to this thread. I edit this initial post (#1) to keep it current but subscribers to this thread don't get notifications of edits so if you're interested in the audio upgrade solution recommended here I suggest you read all the posts that follow and return to #1 from time to time to keep current.


WORRYING.

I was angry and disappointed with the Harmon Kardon system for 7 reasons:

1. The HK system sounds awful: it is harsh, especially toward the upper end, fatiguing, and uneven across the audio spectrum. The bass has no solidity.

2. The HK system has a poor soundstage: instruments and voices lack clear spatial definition.

3. The HK system has very little capacity to customize the sound: just treble and bass tone controls that, sadly, boost their respective spectrums unevenly. No mid-range adjustment. No EQ.

4. The HK system is integrated so tightly with the car’s electronics that replacing components is a challenge.

5. The HK system is noisy: from the factory there’s an annoying upper frequency hiss that apparently comes from the Active Sound Design (ASD) module linked to the HK amp.

The HK sound is also muddied by the fake engine noise that ASD puts through the speakers.

6. The HK system is expensive, especially for what you get.
Depressing reality checks: The Sony system on the Ford hybrid C-Max SUV (MSRP $24,170) costs $275 less than the HK and has a mid-range adjustment. The Sony sounds better than the HK. I rented a run-of-the-mill Nissan Altima. It had a 3-band equalizer. The $5.99 Neutron music player app on my Galaxy phone has a 4-band equalizer.

I was particularly annoyed that my immediate impression after listening to the system for the first time was that, after springing for the “premium” system, I was facing the proposition of spending even more money to upgrade the “upgraded” system. I expect more of a $50K car. The poor quality of this "premium" option diminishes the luster of the BMW brand.

7. I add a quirk reported by some members that the HK subwoofers may unexpectedly go offline, usually coming back after a car restart. This may be caused by the amp overheating under load, especially prolonged heavy bass draws. This is an annoyance but it happens infrequently and isn't a big deal.

***

NOT WORRYING. LIVING.

I have however arrived at a compromise that doesn’t involve too much more money and that makes the system sound good. I’ve concentrated on reducing noise and making modest equipment improvements, primarily to the speakers, to improve the audio. This solution avoids having to interfere with the complicated computerized electronics of the car. None of the modifications requires any specialized skill or equipment. For the record, I’m a lifelong audiophile with preferences toward natural, clean and dynamic sound. I am not so much interested in high-thud sound but I do appreciate clear, solid, well defined bass. I listen to all kinds of music.

Here’s what I've done, with money and time outlays listed. Thanks to all the people on the forum who made various suggestions about these changes.

1. Disconnected the center channel speakers.
Results: better soundstage and a little cleaner sound. You’ll need a small Torx ratchet set.
Time: Under an hour.
Cost: $0.

This procedure has no effect on the navigation voice, which comes through loud and clear through the rest of the speaker system.

2. Installed the Technic Active Sound removal harness.
Results: (1) eliminates the fake motor/exhaust sound fed through the speakers and (2) reduces if not eliminates the hiss that interferes with the music from the audio system and was giving me headaches. Not only is the sound system improved but the car is noticeably quieter. Zooks527 has a terrific installation tutorial on the forum: http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1202389 .
Time: about 2 hours.
Cost: $65.

[CAUTION: I had a problem with the BMW SOS emergency button after my audio mods. It seemed at first that the harness might be incompatible with the BMW SOS emergency button, rendering the SOS service inoperable. It turned out, however, after investigation that the harness is safe. The SOS problem was due to a defect in the BMW telematics control unit, which operates independently of the ASD and the harness. No need to worry.]

Installation of the original version of the harness results in a reduction in bass response and some other audible issues. Forum member Silver6spd discovered that an incorrect wiring setup in the harness was causing the problem which was itself the result of a mistake in BMW's original OEM schematic regarding the polarity of the left front speaker.

The fix is easy:

1. Among the looping wires in the harness you'll find a white wire and a white/black wire.
2. Cut each of these two wires at the center.
3. Connect the wires crosswise so that each wire consists of a white-connected-to-a-white/black wire.
4. Put a wire connector or a wire nut or electrical tape on each. Make sure you don't over-tighten the wire nut and break one of the connections - or you'll lose sound to a speaker. Test for sound and you're all done.

Thanks to Silver6spd for recognizing the problem and tracking down a solution. Future versions of the Technic harness will have the correct wiring. Thanks also to Technic for working to correct the issue. Pictures of the simple fix at are posts #252 and 253, below.

A cleaner solution involving a little more time and effort changing the pins rather than splicing the wires has been suggested by mdputnam: http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showt...9#post20512019.

Use the approach with which you're more comfortable: there's no difference electronically or sonically. The fix is well worth making since the harness results in a noticeable improvement of the sound of the system.

3. I'll be installing the BMW weather-stripping on the front doors.
Results: reduces- engine and road noise for an even quieter cabin.
Time: 20 minutes.
Cost: $30.
I've now installed the weather-stripping. Quieter as advertised.
For information on ordering the weather-stripping, see posts #171-3, below.
Note that the correct part numbers are 51487300693 and 51487300694.
A thread on installing the weather-stripping is at http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showt...atherstripping .


4. Replaced the HK stock speakers in the front doors with Eton B100W component speakers (mid-range + tweeter for each door).
Results: tighter and cleaner sound with a smooth, more natural sound across the spectrum and a punchier mid-low. The harshness of the mid-upper and upper end of the HK system is gone. Eton speakers are highly regarded in Germany and on the Continent but are not very well known in North America. These are very fine and reasonably-priced speakers. They can be ordered from Germany via Amazon or the Extreme Audio website. Mine arrived in a week, delivered to the door by FedEx. Many forum members in the U.S. have ordered the speakers from Germany with no problems.

The speakers are an easy installation, assuming you’re not squeamish about taking the door panels off. The speakers are an exact fit with no additional adapters or connectors needed. Though you do need to be careful: one member accidentally drilled through a wire connected to the airbag system. Just work slowly and you'll be alright.

Bonus: opportunity to add sound deadening material – I used Dynamat Extreme – to the door frame around the mid-range and to the door panel. Eton makes different versions of the speaker. It’s important that you order the “B100W” version. Grave has posted an excellent installation tutorial on the forum. He has good pictures accompanied by instructions in French. See his post at http://bmw-one.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=34196 . I've written up a (very poor) English translation of his instructions that I can PM. For further help on the installation see also Solarphil's excellent guide at http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1258290 .
Time: about 4 hours but I really took my time, trying not to put a screwdriver through a cone. That includes Dynamatting the doors and panels. A less cautious amateur could probably do the job in a couple of hours, a pro in an hour. If you have a pro do it, you shouldn't have to pay much since no special fittings are required: it's plug and play after the panels come off.

It's well worth it to make this investment since most of the sound comes from the front speakers.

Cost: about $250, including shipping.
***

The total cost to make the HK system sound good (Technics harness, Eton speakers for the front doors, weatherstripping, some Dynamat) was just under $350, which is about as much money as I care to spend on the audio system right now, having already parted with $875 for the HK.
JL Audio speakers for the rear deck add another $75-100. See below.

Is the system all I wanted?

No. But it’s a damned sight better than the factory HK setup. The sound is tighter, cleaner, more natural sounding, and much easier to listen to at volume. The hiss seems to be gone. The cabin is much quieter. The HK woofers are OK.

If I’m overcome with a burning urge to relieve myself of more money on the audio system and I have time on my hands I’d probably, in order,

(5) Replace the rear speakers JL Audio C2-400x coaxes, as per Viffermike’s suggestion.
I broke down, bought, and installed these.
Result: Much more natural sound, huge difference in lower and mid-bass. The treble is also improved. Sure glad I did this.
Time: under an hour.
Cost: $75-$100.
The installation is extremely simple. Two of the three JL screw holes align exactly over two of the holes in the car. You can easily secure the third mounting tab by using a wide washer or similar item and the original BMW screw. Adding speakers to the rear of a convertible takes more work than in the hardtop and might require the help of a pro. See posts #222 & 224 in this thread and the "M235i Vert" thread.

Installation note: the original connectors are locking connectors. Use a very small screwdriver or an awl to release the lock. Don't just pull.

The increased and tighter bass may cause a bit of a rattle from the rear, even if you install the dynamat as recommended in this thread. The rattle comes from the child lock latches. An easy solution suggested by clemsonkev: pack the lock with a few packing foam peanuts and close the latch. Problem solved.


(-) Replace the HK underseat woofers. Time: a few hours. Cost: depends on choice but plan on around $500 for the pair.
Not necessary with the addition of the Eton and JL Audio speakers. Even doing one set of speakers improves the bass, especially the JL's in the back. One or two members have replaced the under-seat woofers with Bavtech and other speakers, leaving the original HK head unit. What change there was was unremarkable.

(-) Install a Bimmertech amp. Time: a few hours. Cost: $849.
Not necessary.

Another speaker option to consider is Bavsound. Their front door package (mid + tweeter) is about $100 more than the Etons. The Bavsound rear shelf speaker set is about $200 more than the JL Audio. They also offer a center channel speaker for $100 and a center channel tweeter for $100. Bavsound has announced that the package will rise by $100-200 on June 1st. There are other speaker options that are more expensive.

6. I will install more Dynamat as I work on the car.
I added Dynamat Extreme to most of the bare metal in the trunk. You can see a few photos of the Dynamatting in posts #126 & 148, below. My goal was to make the listening environment sepulchral. The car is now like a tomb and the sound is considerably improved, especially with respect to solidity and delineation of musical sources in the soundstage. I should add that road noise is considerably reduced, so adding Dynamat is not just an audio issue.

My choices reflect my prior conviction that it makes sense to improve the speakers before the electronics and my resistance to dumping tons of money on a system that, in the end, is still limited by the capabilities and limitations of the HK headunit/amp. I would much rather have had control of the audio from beginning to end, in which case I might have ordered the base sound unit and put the money in on a good, complete aftermarket system. I realize that there’s room to disagree on these points. But an important question is whether the HK head unit/amp is superior to the base HiFi unit. It probably is, in which case it probably makes sense to spring for the HK system, knowing that further expenditures are in your future.

I'm now done fooling around with the audio. The system is pretty good.

I hope this post is helpful to other HK owners similarly afflicted and to other 2-series potential buyers thinking of what options to include and exclude.

***

Reflections on Eton/JLAudio v. Bavsound/Bimmertech

The current price for Bavsound Stage One package upgrade (front and rear, including center channel, but excluding the subwoofers) is $797, with a possible price increase of $100-200 in summer 2016. Adding the Bimmertech amp ($849) puts the Bavsound/Bimmertech combo at between $1746-$1846. The Eton/JLAudio speaker combination is $350.

Is the nearly $1400-$1500 difference between Bavsound/Bimmertech and Eton/JLAudio worth it?

The Bimmertech amp is tunable (though not through a simple EQ array on the car's display) whereas the Eton/JLAudio fix relies on the HK tone controls. The ability to fine-tune the Bimmertech amp allows for more customization than the HK tone controls. Tuning the Bimmertech involves downloading and installing a tuning file with a laptop and a USB cable. You can then fine-tune the tuning manually with a laptop and cable. Installing and adjusting the tuning on the Bimmertech will be fun for some, a pain for others, since there no such thing as single standard or optimal tune that will satisfy all listeners. See http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1232178 for what's involved. In any event, installing a tune is not something that can be done on the fly if you want to alter the sound while driving or in a hurry, as you can do with conventional tone controls.

As for a judgment on the sound itself - which is, after all, the prize - it would be good to have the two systems side by side for an A/B comparison but the likelihood of that happening is very low.

But watch this space: an A/B comparison is coming soon.

After living with the upgrades listed here for quite some time, I personally don't feel the need for extra power or superior electronics in the car: the system sounds good and has all the power I need even at high revs and speed, especially since so much noise has been eliminated from the environment.

To this I would also note some difficulties forum members have had with Bavsound and Bimmertech.

First, several forums members have reported issues with Bavsound distribution, production line delays, missing parts, and speaker quality control.

Second, as reported by Zooks527, there is a potential problem that the Bimmertech 3rd party amp may cause routine dealer ECU flashes to abort and immobilize the car(!). The flash may be looking for a response from the audio that it doesn't get because of the 3rd party amp. Not seeing the response, the flash fails and the car turns into a brick.

When this happens the 3rd party amp has to be uninstalled and the stock amp reinstalled while the car is in the shop. The car can then be reflashed by the dealer. The 3rd party amp can be reinstalled after the flash in the shop or at home. If your car is immobilized in the shop you will have to tell the dealer the probable cause since the dealer may not be aware of the incompatibility of the amp with the flash procedure.

Note: The bricking problem appears to be caused by the 3rd party amp, not the Technics ASD bypass harness.

I am not aware of any dealer who has charged an owner for time and labor on reflashing the car and getting it to start, on the grounds that the owner's installation caused the problem. Nor have I heard of a dealer who has tried to void the warranty because of an amp installation. But these are possibilities. At best the problem is an unpleasant inconvenience - it's not exactly a barrel of fun to rip out the trunk liner and reinstall it, reseating it under the rubber trunk seal. And at worst the uninstallation and reinstallation could result in damage to the components, liner, and/or rubber seal, extra time at the dealer's, and perhaps even repair charges. There are other amps (for example, the JL 600/6) that cost less than the Bimmertech and amps that cost more but until we hear from owners of such amps who have actually had ECU flashes we have to assume the same risk applies. Now it should be pointed out that ECU flashes are only infrequently installed by dealers. That said, in order to be safe, owners with 3rd party amps need either to be sure to uninstall the amp before every visit to the dealership - which may not be possible in the case of unplanned or sudden visits - or ask the dealer not to flash the car - which is not a good policy. Ignoring this issue could leave you with an immobilized BMW on the shop floor. I should point out, though, that some members have reported having an ECU flash on cars with aftermarket amps installed, with no adverse results. So the jury is out on this one.

Forum member djarchow has reported that the Bimmertech amp may cut out when stepping on the brake and turning the headlights on. The culprit may be low level electrical noise in the car that causes the amp to shift to switch to AUX inputs, muting the main inputs.

All this gets back to the problem of the system's close integration with the car's computer systems. For a discussion of the risks of installing after-market electronics in this car, see this thread: http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showt...4#post20053574

***

I won't pursue the possibility, made in another thread, of installing a MusicarNW Stage 3 system at upwards of $5,000. This is way beyond what I could personally justify spending on an automotive sound system, especially considering how good the system can sound with the modest changes suggested above. For the record, I understand the irony of someone who has spent $50K on an automobile complaining about the extravagance of spending $5K on a sound upgrade.
***

Forum member fancyfl1ght has reported static white noise problems with the JL Audio xd800/8v2 amplifier.

***

There is some ongoing discussion about other possible polarity issues with the HK system but at the moment it's not clear that there actually are such problems. Moreover, as djarchow has argued in another thread, what might seem to be a simple issue with the polarity of a speaker can actually involve many other variables in the system. If we get confirmation that there actually is a specific problem with polarity (apart from the driver's side rear speaker), I'll provide an update to this thread. Until then best not to rush into changes.

***

Finally, a gentle reminder. When making electrical connections be sure that the connections stay secure. If you use wire nuts don't over tighten them or the wire may come out of the metal connector inside. Same for electrical tape: be sure as you wrap the tape that you don't undo the connection inside. I know this is Basic Working With Electricity 101 but at least two members (not naming names ) have inadvertently disconnected wires and have lost sound.

***

Conclusion: All in all, the simple speaker swap with sound deadening and noise reduction seems to me the way to go from the standpoints of sound, convenience, price, and risk. People can choose which of the improvements to make on an incremental basis. If you have the inclination, though, I really do recommend carrying out the full installation.

I'd welcome others' views.
***

These reflections do not take into account the possibility of replacing the underseat woofers which, for reasons noted (posts #27 & #159, below), I'm not inclined to do at this point. The space limitations for the enclosures make it pretty unlikely that just replacing the speakers will make a significant difference at the lower end. As I said earlier I was trying to keep costs down to what I considered to be reasonable after spending for the "premium" HK upgrade. Philosophical reflections on how much money to spend on the underseat woofers are sprinkled through the discussion but see especially post #537 and following.

Thanks so much for making this. I am in the process of making a video series on this. Would you mind if I gave you and this thread a shoutout?
Appreciate 0
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