Advice for replacing front swaybar bushings

Sail Boat · 07-05-2018, 08:37 AM

Hi all,

Question: do I need to go through the entire swaybar removal process outlined by dinan to replace the front swaybar bushings? I'm hoping the lowering of the subframe is to make room to removing the bar, not to access the bushing bracket bolts. Can anyone advise?

Background: For a while now I have been attempting to figure out why some F2x cars make a pretty nasty clunking/chatter noise when driving over uneven bumps/dips. My first success was installing KW V3's with OEM tophats, which got rid of a lot of the chatter; I'm not 100% sure why this worked.

Despite this breakthrough, the clunking still remains. After disconnecting the swaybar, it is evident that the clunking is coming from the swaybar walking, likely caused by weak or worn bushings. This makes sense given that the clunk only happens when going over uneven surfaces, i.e. one wheel going into a pothole or over a bump, and the swaybar is the only moving component that ties the two sides together. I plan on using powerflex purple bushes, but will differ to their expertise.

syclonedriver · 07-06-2018, 06:59 PM

If it's anything like the rear it is possible to r&r the bushing without dropping the subframe. I made a wrench from an E12 socket and an old 5/8 wrench using a metal saw and a welder.

What do you sail?

07-05-2018, 08:37 AM	#1
Sail Boat Private First Class 192 Rep 178 Posts Drives: M235i Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Nashville, TN iTrader: (0)	Advice for replacing front swaybar bushings Hi all, Question: do I need to go through the entire swaybar removal process outlined by dinan to replace the front swaybar bushings? I'm hoping the lowering of the subframe is to make room to removing the bar, not to access the bushing bracket bolts. Can anyone advise? Background: For a while now I have been attempting to figure out why some F2x cars make a pretty nasty clunking/chatter noise when driving over uneven bumps/dips. My first success was installing KW V3's with OEM tophats, which got rid of a lot of the chatter; I'm not 100% sure why this worked. Despite this breakthrough, the clunking still remains. After disconnecting the swaybar, it is evident that the clunking is coming from the swaybar walking, likely caused by weak or worn bushings. This makes sense given that the clunk only happens when going over uneven surfaces, i.e. one wheel going into a pothole or over a bump, and the swaybar is the only moving component that ties the two sides together. I plan on using powerflex purple bushes, but will differ to their expertise.
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07-06-2018, 06:59 PM	#2
syclonedriver Private 18 Rep 78 Posts Drives: 2015 M235i convertible Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Bartlesville OK iTrader: (0)	If it's anything like the rear it is possible to r&r the bushing without dropping the subframe. I made a wrench from an E12 socket and an old 5/8 wrench using a metal saw and a welder. What do you sail?
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