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      01-23-2022, 05:29 PM   #1
cth6
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Cabin heating issues

I have a 16 F22 61k miles, no mods.

We are just getting into our Florida winter and noticed that heating was sub par.

When set both sides to 84*. The driver dash vent, floor vent and half of the defroster pushes warm air at a below average flow rate. The center console, rear vent, and the passenger vents are cold. When I rotate the driver and passenger temps to 60* the temps go cold and the volume air airflow increases to normal levels. Noticeably stronger then when on 84*. The coolant temp is 212* and I am doing this parked so airflow is generated by the blower not ram pressure.

The coolant level is at the high mark, both feed and return coolant lines into the firewall are nice and hot. No codes using a scanner. Waiting on access to download ISTA-D to see if I can see anything, but not an expert on what to look for. I have seen posts about actuating the vent actuators ( I believe there are 9 of them) and adjusting the flap positions, but have not found instructions.

I am getting some heat and the return line is hot, so my assumption the heater core is not blocked otherwise the return side would be cold.

Has anyone experienced this scenario and know of a fix? Does anyone have access to the maintenance docs on how to scan the IHKA and adjust the actuators/flaps?

Thanks!

CT
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      01-23-2022, 05:37 PM   #2
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You haven't mentioned the position of the thumbwheel for the upper body temperature.

It's located below the hazard central locking press buttons
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      01-23-2022, 06:16 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caravaggio View Post
You haven't mentioned the position of the thumbwheel for the upper body temperature.

It's located below the hazard central locking press buttons
To rule out all items, i have it on hot.

Normally I leave it in the middle and there is still effective heat out of the vents. Or at least the over the past 6 years.

Last edited by cth6; 01-23-2022 at 06:19 PM.. Reason: Added additional content
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      01-23-2022, 07:49 PM   #4
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start with simple things first.

replace cabin filter

make sure your car battery is fully charged
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      01-23-2022, 08:53 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caravaggio View Post
start with simple things first.

replace cabin filter

make sure your car battery is fully charged
Both are good.

Cabin filter is less than a month old and about 5 hrs on it. Airflow is strong when running AC so I know the filter media is not restricting flow. I did pull the cover today to see if any wires could have come lose during last filter replacement. None on that as well.

Battery is fully charged. Alternator is pushing 14v+ when running so good there. Battery is 12.7 at rest so it still has 90%+ capacity.
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      01-24-2022, 12:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cth6 View Post
I have a 16 F22 61k miles, no mods.

We are just getting into our Florida winter and noticed that heating was sub par.

When set both sides to 84*. The driver dash vent, floor vent and half of the defroster pushes warm air at a below average flow rate. The center console, rear vent, and the passenger vents are cold. When I rotate the driver and passenger temps to 60* the temps go cold and the volume air airflow increases to normal levels. Noticeably stronger then when on 84*. The coolant temp is 212* and I am doing this parked so airflow is generated by the blower not ram pressure.

The coolant level is at the high mark, both feed and return coolant lines into the firewall are nice and hot. No codes using a scanner. Waiting on access to download ISTA-D to see if I can see anything, but not an expert on what to look for. I have seen posts about actuating the vent actuators ( I believe there are 9 of them) and adjusting the flap positions, but have not found instructions.

I am getting some heat and the return line is hot, so my assumption the heater core is not blocked otherwise the return side would be cold.

Has anyone experienced this scenario and know of a fix? Does anyone have access to the maintenance docs on how to scan the IHKA and adjust the actuators/flaps?

Thanks!

CT
I have the same problem with my '15 F22 but on the passenger side vents - that side is cold when heat is called and working on the driver side. I will learn from your solution - I hope!
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      01-24-2022, 05:40 PM   #7
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I still need to test tomorrow on my way to work, but I may have fixed the issue. I only had time to do a quick test and the results were positive.

I was just reviewing the tech manuals for the F22 to see what else I could validate. One item that caught my eye was that F22's like many other models require a secondary bleeding process after a coolant change. The dealership did the last coolant flush at the end of year 5 when the maintenance expired.

Just for the hell of it, I ran the procedure to bleed the lines. The first time it ran, there were 5 or 6 times I could hear a significant amount of air purging into the overflow tank. Once completed, I had to add 3/4 cup of fluid to get it back to the full line. I ran it a second time and there was 1 or 2 small purging bubbles with no significant change to the fluid level in the overflow. I ran the car to test the heat and indications were good on both sides. I then purged the line a third time and no bubbles were noted.

The procedure for the F22 (N55) is;

1. Connect battery charger.
2. Switch the ignition on.
3. Switch on low-beam headlight.
4. Set heater to maximum temperature and turn blower down to lowest speed.
5. Driving experience switch must not be set to ECO PRO!
6. Press accelerator pedal for 10 seconds to floor. Engine must not be started.

The bleeding procedure was started by pressing the accelerator pedal and takes approx. 12 mins. (the electrical coolant pump was activated and switches off automatically after approx. 12 mins.).

7. Then adjust fluid level in the coolant expansion tank to maximum.
8. Check cooling system on watertightness.

If venting has to be carried out again (e.g. if cooling system is leaking), allow DME to fall completely (leave ignition key removed for approx. 3 mins.), then repeat from Point 2.
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      01-24-2022, 05:50 PM   #8
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Running the test, even with a battery charger at 10 Amps, definitely taxed the battery. The open circuit state of charge dropped from 12.79 to 12.55 after doing the tests above. I let the battery cool and its back on the charger for the evening.

The fluid level in the tank has been well above the minimum level since it was last serviced. I have no idea how I could have ended up with that much air in the lines unless the dealer didn't do the second purge. There are no leaks in or outside of the cabin, indicative of a leaking exchanger or other part of the system.

Last edited by cth6; 01-24-2022 at 05:55 PM.. Reason: Added more detail
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      01-25-2022, 11:14 AM   #9
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Better, but not fixed

Well, bleeding the system helped, but there is still a significant temp difference between the driver and passenger heated air. Better than just outside air, but still no where near where it should be.

So back to troubleshooting....
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      05-09-2022, 07:44 PM   #10
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Did you ever find the problem? My 2016 is doing the same. Independent shop has changed a couple stepper motors and recalibrated the system but that did nothing. Now they want to pull the dash out and check the operation of the Blend Door.

Without knowing more I’m not spending $3k for them to go on a fishing expedition.
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