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2Addicts | BMW 2-Series forum Technical Topics Mechanical Maintenance and TSBs: Break-in | Oil & Fluids | Servicing | TSB Anyone change their own oil in a M240 (B58 engine)?

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      09-13-2021, 11:24 PM   #1
Edslittleworld
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Anyone change their own oil in a M240 (B58 engine)?

I just performed my second oil change and am still curious why the oil filter cap is difficult (tight!) to remove/install...especially with the slightly difficult access. I was so paranoid after I struggled to install the filter the first time that I assumed the filter cartridge actually tilted and I was crushing it. So, I pulled it back out and it was fine. During the second install, I oiled the threads and both o-rings. It was still a brute to install. Anyone else experience this effort and also worried about crushing the filter? (My Jeep filter is similar, but very easy to install)

Plus, my M240i only needed 5.5L of oil despite allowing it to drain both on ramps and on level ground for 30 minutes. I understand it requires 6.5L of oil?
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      09-13-2021, 11:47 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edslittleworld View Post
I just performed my second oil change and am still curious why the oil filter cap is difficult (tight!) to remove/install...especially with the slightly difficult access. I was so paranoid after I struggled to install the filter the first time that I assumed the filter cartridge actually tilted and I was crushing it. So, I pulled it back out and it was fine. During the second install, I oiled the threads and both o-rings. It was still a brute to install. Anyone else experience this effort and also worried about crushing the filter? (My Jeep filter is similar, but very easy to install)

Plus, my M240i only needed 5.5L of oil despite allowing it to drain both on ramps and on level ground for 30 minutes. I understand it requires 6.5L of oil?
Except for the last few turns of the filter cap, it should be able to be turned by hand if the O ring and filter base are lubricated, if not the cap may have been over torqued or cross threaded at some point. Both the filter cap and oil pan plug should be torqued to 25Nm after being hand tightened to begin with to avoid cross threading.

Tilting the car from side to side by partially jacking it when otherwise on level ground can sometimes drain more oil, but if it wasn’t indicating absolutely at the maximum level before draining, less than 6.5 litres will drain (5.5 litres at the minimum mark).

This is a good B58 oil change video from ECS, if you haven’t seen it:

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      09-14-2021, 12:38 AM   #3
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Thanks for the info/vid! BTW...do you like driving your Macan S or M240i more?
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      09-14-2021, 01:24 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Edslittleworld View Post
Thanks for the info/vid! BTW...do you like driving your Macan S or M240i more?
I prefer the M240i more, but driving the Macan 600km to the track and back with the Caterham and thrashing it around for 300km, is the best day’s worth of driving:
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      11-14-2021, 03:04 PM   #5
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Hey Ed, I can't help but try to reach out and ask you about your M240i.

Please let me know if we can discuss a few things about the car, I am a serious buyer in the market.

If this sounds like something you'd be interested in, please let me know as I am in no rush to buy. I'm waiting for the proper opportunity to arise and I think your car could be it. I know you are thinking of giving it a new home, so sleep on it and let me know asap.
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      11-14-2021, 07:08 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edslittleworld View Post
I just performed my second oil change and am still curious why the oil filter cap is difficult (tight!) to remove/install...especially with the slightly difficult access. I was so paranoid after I struggled to install the filter the first time that I assumed the filter cartridge actually tilted and I was crushing it. So, I pulled it back out and it was fine. During the second install, I oiled the threads and both o-rings. It was still a brute to install. Anyone else experience this effort and also worried about crushing the filter? (My Jeep filter is similar, but very easy to install)

Plus, my M240i only needed 5.5L of oil despite allowing it to drain both on ramps and on level ground for 30 minutes. I understand it requires 6.5L of oil?
I don't think you should oil the threads.... If you do so then that affects the tightening torque
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      12-10-2021, 01:09 PM   #7
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6 jugs of oil
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      02-09-2022, 07:22 AM   #8
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One thing I learned the hard way changing my 240's oil for the first time is to be careful with your socket by the drain plug. The starter cable runs right by and you can easily arc to it.
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      02-09-2022, 07:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A~ The Hun View Post
One thing I learned the hard way changing my 240's oil for the first time is to be careful with your socket by the drain plug. The starter cable runs right by and you can easily arc to it.
Bingo, I had the same experience. I did remove the cover under the engine to eyeball the bottom of the engine, since the car was new to me and I was performing my first oil change on the car. With the cover in place, and using the trap door to access the drain plug, I don't think you will hit the starter cable.
I did cover the cable with duct tape before I put the cover back on.

I also removed the CDV while I was under the car, bleed the clutch and brakes.
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      02-22-2022, 10:19 PM   #10
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It's a little annoying that the drain plug isn't at the end of the pan on this car. I had to drain the car with all 4 wheels in the air, otherwise there's still oil in the back of the pan. Usually, just having the front is all you have to do for a simple oil change.
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      10-26-2022, 08:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edslittleworld View Post
Plus, my M240i only needed 5.5L of oil despite allowing it to drain both on ramps and on level ground for 30 minutes. I understand it requires 6.5L of oil?
I also performed first oil change (16000km) and only 5.5 litres came out. I had already added 6.5l before measuring the drained volume.
So I had electronically checked the oil level both before and after the oil change. Both levels read at maximum.
That's a dilemma. Firstly, there's a litre more in there but both readings full.
Secondly, where is the missing litre?
It's possible that the first owner drove it hard and the engine consumed a litre during its first 16000km??
Unlikely I think, but why can the oil levels both read full with different amounts in the engine?
Question:
Can the oil level sensor detect over full condition or not?

Last edited by Twoforty; 10-27-2022 at 04:24 PM..
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      10-27-2022, 07:55 AM   #12
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I noticed the same, not sure how much drained out the first time I changed the oil, but after putting in about 5.5 liters the oil level showed full. Added about another 1/2 liter and the level remained at full (not higher than full).
Left it there, since I did not want to overfill. Same thing the second time I changed the oil.
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      10-28-2022, 08:48 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A~ The Hun View Post
One thing I learned the hard way changing my 240's oil for the first time is to be careful with your socket by the drain plug. The starter cable runs right by and you can easily arc to it.
^^^^^THIS^^^^^^
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      10-28-2022, 10:36 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A~ The Hun View Post
One thing I learned the hard way changing my 240's oil for the first time is to be careful with your socket by the drain plug. The starter cable runs right by and you can easily arc to it.
Actually that is not the starter feed but rather the power steering feed that runs that low. Same arc though.
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      10-28-2022, 07:22 PM   #15
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The one thing that completely infuriates me is the lack of a dip stick! Strange and rather odd progression in engineering... I can see the electronic side of things, checking oil level electronically, but in addition to a physical ability to check the oil, not in lieu of... It's ridiculous to have to check oil level by running engine. Sometimes, that's not a good thing, just saying, lol
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      11-01-2022, 09:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pikcachu View Post
I don't think you should oil the threads.... If you do so then that affects the tightening torque
There's no way lubricating the threads affects tightening torque.
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      11-02-2022, 01:44 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R_don_abon View Post
There's no way lubricating the threads affects tightening torque.
A given tightening torque for a dry thread and oiled thread will produce a different strain and consequent clamping force in a bolt. In the context of an oil drain plug bolt, I’d expect the tightening torque would be specified for an oiled thread.

Engine oil increases bolt strain by about 1/3 compared with a dry thread. An M12 8.8 drain plug bolt into aluminium at 20mm thread depth can take a torque of about 60Nm dry or about 45Nm oiled, so a BMW standard torque for an oil drain plug of 25Nm is well within the safety tolerance.
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      11-03-2022, 08:49 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerobod View Post
A given tightening torque for a dry thread and oiled thread will produce a different strain and consequent clamping force in a bolt. In the context of an oil drain plug bolt, I’d expect the tightening torque would be specified for an oiled thread.

Engine oil increases bolt strain by about 1/3 compared with a dry thread. An M12 8.8 drain plug bolt into aluminium at 20mm thread depth can take a torque of about 60Nm dry or about 45Nm oiled, so a BMW standard torque for an oil drain plug of 25Nm is well within the safety tolerance.
Well I guess you learn something new every day. I believe OP is referring to the oil cartridge, not the drain plug but I don't think that really changes anything for purposes of this discussion.

I thought that once the contact of the clamp side of a washer/bolt/etc met the surface it was mating to, that is where the torque measurement would begin, and as long as the mating surface has no oil, oil on the threads would not have an impact on clamping torque. I get that the torque to start threading would be different but having trouble understanding why the clamped torque would change.
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      11-03-2022, 09:38 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R_don_abon View Post
Well I guess you learn something new every day. I believe OP is referring to the oil cartridge, not the drain plug but I don't think that really changes anything for purposes of this discussion.

I thought that once the contact of the clamp side of a washer/bolt/etc met the surface it was mating to, that is where the torque measurement would begin, and as long as the mating surface has no oil, oil on the threads would not have an impact on clamping torque. I get that the torque to start threading would be different but having trouble understanding why the clamped torque would change.
Clamping torque in relation to clamping force is dependent on thread friction which is changed by any lubricant and bolt thread surface finish. That is why angular torque measurements are a lot less accurate than using a jointing torque followed by a fixed angular rotation of the bolt to give a much more accurate bolt strain (and hence clamping force).
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