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      12-10-2017, 08:59 AM   #23
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don't forget to locktite them in.
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      12-10-2017, 11:30 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveInfante View Post
Where did you get them? I was looking at the APEX set.
I went with the Apex 75 mm set. I think directly from their website.
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      12-10-2017, 11:38 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryan_f22 View Post
don't forget to locktite them in.
Yup used red locktite. Went out and spent $40 on a smaller torque wrench to appropriately torque them to 24 ft/lbs.

Soaked the nuts and studs in a denatured alcohol bath then hand dried each one. I put a wire brush on the end of my drill and thoroughly cleaned each hole. Then I sprayed each hole thoroughly with da.

Applied locktite 272 to each stud and carefully torqued each one. Then I torqued each nut carefully to 80 ft/lbs as Apex reccomends.

All in all it took around 2 hours in the dark and cold.
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      12-21-2017, 09:02 AM   #26
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Finally took some pictures.

I was not super impressed with the quality, but I also don't care too much because they are wheel studs.

They seem of good structural quality, but the coating seemed uneven, some black rubbed off when degreasing with denatured alcohol, and some paint/coating was uneven on threads making them difficult to snug tight by hand.
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      12-21-2017, 11:18 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony235 View Post
I run Motorsport Hardware with an actual thread pitch conversion. I use them because I run a very low offset, but also the threads are less prone to damage. I think I run the 78mm studs.

Your setup may not need such a long stud or thread conversion.


Do you have any pictures of yours? I am thinking about swapping to the Motorsport lugs eventually because they look better. Does the logs show much or is it covered by the wheel?
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      12-21-2017, 11:25 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmwilson125 View Post
Do you have any pictures of yours? I am thinking about swapping to the Motorsport lugs eventually because they look better. Does the logs show much or is it covered by the wheel?
They stick out far. The purpose is to allow large spacers though. I run a 20mm spacer up front. You may not need such a long stud and your wheel style will hide most of it.

255 square
18x9.5+45 rear
18x9.5+45 front (+25 with spacer).



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      12-21-2017, 07:01 PM   #29
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^ That looks good.
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      01-22-2019, 11:02 PM   #30
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Thread bump.

Looking at MSI bullet nose studs from Turner Motorsport for my stud conversion. Anyone use these? I am thinking the 70mm length should work for me as I do not intend to use wheel spacers now or ever on this car.

Turner also sells an in-house stud that comes in 60mm and 75mm lengths. I'm guessing the 60mm length will look very OEM, but might take away some of the convenience (and safety?) of having a stud conversion in the first place. The 75mm length might start to protrude a bit too much, which I really don't care for. Hence, my thinking the 70mm MSI studs are the way to go with the added convenience of that true "bullet nose" shape allowing one to slip on the lug nuts that much more quickly vs. the more blunt shape of the Turner brand studs.

I'm certainly open to feedback on ideal length for the F22. I also have a set of wider BBS CH-R wheels that do not require spacers or longer wheel bolts per BBS, so I think I should be okay with a 60/70mm stud length even with these aftermarket wheels.

Thanks in advance!
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      01-23-2019, 12:02 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CP911 View Post
I am thinking the 70mm length should work for me as I do not intend to use wheel spacers now or ever on this car.

I also have a set of wider BBS CH-R wheels that do not require spacers or longer wheel bolts per BBS, so I think I should be okay with a 60/70mm stud length even with these aftermarket wheels.
I'm running 60mm studs with ARC-8 9" ET 42 front wheels with no spacers and 9½" ET 58 rear wheels with 5mm spacers. Here's how they look on the rear wheels:


This is a shot of the studs with BBS SR 8" ET 35 winter wheels on the car:


If you decide to go with ~70mm studs, Bimmerworld has these that I think are worth considering:
https://www.bimmerworld.com/Premium-...x125-73mm.html
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      01-23-2019, 02:27 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dradernh View Post
I'm running 60mm studs with ARC-8 9" ET 42 front wheels with no spacers and 9½" ET 58 rear wheels with 5mm spacers. Here's how they look on the rear wheels:


This is a shot of the studs with BBS SR 8" ET 35 winter wheels on the car:


If you decide to go with ~70mm studs, Bimmerworld has these that I think are worth considering:
https://www.bimmerworld.com/Premium-...x125-73mm.html
Which nuts are your running with these? 60mm looks best to me.
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      01-23-2019, 04:35 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hwntime View Post
Which nuts are your running with these? 60mm looks best to me.
They're open-ended 17mm heat-treated black steel. IOW, your basic aftermarket lug nut, like this one: https://www.bimmerworld.com/Premium-...4-15-17mm.html.
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      01-23-2019, 04:42 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dradernh View Post
They're open-ended 17mm heat-treated black steel. IOW, your basic aftermarket lug nut, like this one: https://www.bimmerworld.com/Premium-...4-15-17mm.html.
Thanks. $51 extra for 20 nuts is a bit crazy though. The conversion would cost $250.80 if purchased from BW
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      01-23-2019, 05:03 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hwntime View Post
Thanks. $51 extra for 20 nuts is a bit crazy though. The conversion would cost $250.80 if purchased from BW
Those are track car parts, so they're made to last in a much more demanding environment than the street presents.

These MSI Racing nuts are race car parts, and they're quite a bit more expensive: https://www.bimmerworld.com/Quick-Ch...-Nut-17MM.html.

It's all a question of what you need. I go to the track, so I always get track parts when they're available and will make a difference to me.

For the street, an F22 owner would probably choose this $150 kit instead: https://www.bimmerworld.com/BimmerWo...d-Package.html. However, the studs are 75mm.
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      01-23-2019, 05:27 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dradernh View Post
Those are track car parts, so they're made to last in a much more demanding environment than the street presents.

These MSI Racing nuts are race car parts, and they're quite a bit more expensive: https://www.bimmerworld.com/Quick-Ch...-Nut-17MM.html.

It's all a question of what you need. I go to the track, so I always get track parts when they're available and will make a difference to me.

For the street, an F22 owner would probably choose this $150 kit instead: https://www.bimmerworld.com/BimmerWo...d-Package.html. However, the studs are 75mm.
Thanks again. I just think the 60mm looks best. 75mm is a bit overkill and looks too racerboy for me.
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      01-24-2019, 08:20 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hwntime View Post
Thanks again. I just think the 60mm looks best. 75mm is a bit overkill and looks too racerboy for me.
I agree that 75mm isn't needed on this car, although my fat fingers had a bit of trouble getting the nuts started when I was putting the BBS winter wheels on. The ARC-8 wheel's design is much better in this regard.
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      01-24-2019, 02:37 PM   #38
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I had the Apex 75mm installed on my old 135, great quality conversion. The only problem I had was that Discount Tire refused to remove or installed my wheels to do anything since had studs vs bolts that is called for EU cars... To get any service I had to remove the wheels at home and take them to get balance or fix when had puncture, etc.. Went to 3 different Discount Tire stores in my area and all gave me the same stupid answer.
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      01-24-2019, 06:00 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joaco135 View Post
I had the Apex 75mm installed on my old 135, great quality conversion. The only problem I had was that Discount Tire refused to remove or installed my wheels to do anything since had studs vs bolts that is called for EU cars... To get any service I had to remove the wheels at home and take them to get balance or fix when had puncture, etc.. Went to 3 different Discount Tire stores in my area and all gave me the same stupid answer.
I'm sure it's a company-wide policy so they can't be held liable should the studs fail. They aren't OEM so there's no way of telling if you got a reputable brand or some cheap stuff from China which are bound to eventually fail.
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      01-25-2019, 09:56 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dradernh View Post
I agree that 75mm isn't needed on this car, although my fat fingers had a bit of trouble getting the nuts started when I was putting the BBS winter wheels on. The ARC-8 wheel's design is much better in this regard.
Thanks for posting all those pics above. I ended up going with the 70mm length, but now after looking at your pics some more I'm worried I may end up exchanging them for 60mm. I guess I'll have to mock them up on 1 wheel without any loc-tite at first just to see how it will look.

Not to get off topic, but how did you get those front wheels to fit without rubbing the struts!? Do you run camber plates? My BSS wheels are 8" ET40 up front and 9" ET44 rear. I have just ~3-5mm to spare between the front tire and the strut with 235/35/19 tires.
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      01-26-2019, 12:01 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CP911 View Post
...how did you get those front wheels to fit without rubbing the struts!? Do you run camber plates?
My build is shown here: https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1532418.

Whether your goal is aesthetics or absolute performance, test-fitting of wheel and tire options is the only way to know what will work on your car.
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