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      01-19-2020, 11:37 AM   #1
Laith027
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Stock M240i first track day, what to expect?

So I'm about to track my stock m240i, my first track day event.

After much thought and research on these forums, decided to go for it.
Car has around 11,000 KMs on it (6,800miles), and I am going to have the first oil change before tracking. Am also considering a RBF660 brake fluid flush a day before tracking.
Just wanna know what should I expect in terms of a stock m240, and any tips would be appreciated.
Also, could I track it without the RBF660 fluid? Will the brake fluid help reduce brake pad wear?

Cheers
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      01-19-2020, 02:56 PM   #2
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You are going to have a lot of fun. I wouldn’t worry about changing the fluid for your first track day you’ll be fine.
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      01-19-2020, 03:48 PM   #3
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Make sure you have a decent tire pressure gage and check your tires after each session. you can do a ton of tire wear if pressures aren't good. depending on outside temp and particular track the optimal pressure will change. ask around while you are there and get advice on good pressures.
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      01-19-2020, 04:19 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laith027 View Post
So I'm about to track my stock m240i, my first track day event.

After much thought and research on these forums, decided to go for it.
Car has around 11,000 KMs on it (6,800miles), and I am going to have the first oil change before tracking. Am also considering a RBF660 brake fluid flush a day before tracking.
Just wanna know what should I expect in terms of a stock m240, and any tips would be appreciated.
Also, could I track it without the RBF660 fluid? Will the brake fluid help reduce brake pad wear?

Cheers
If you are running MPSS Tires make sure you start with at least 38 lbs in the front. These cars have a lot of understeer and the MPSS tire edges are soft!
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      01-20-2020, 03:14 AM   #5
Laith027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smchuck View Post
You are going to have a lot of fun. I wouldn’t worry about changing the fluid for your first track day you’ll be fine.
Will I not have massive wear on the brake pads after the track day if running on normal brake fluid? Keeping in mind this is not my track toy and I usually drive it daily
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      01-20-2020, 03:17 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by ralawren View Post
If you are running MPSS Tires make sure you start with at least 38 lbs in the front. These cars have a lot of understeer and the MPSS tire edges are soft!
Will definitely keep an eye out on pressure...I'm running Bridgestone potenza
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      01-20-2020, 10:28 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laith027 View Post
Will I not have massive wear on the brake pads after the track day if running on normal brake fluid? Keeping in mind this is not my track toy and I usually drive it daily
Warning - tracking is habit forming; best you just turn away now.....I thought I'd just try it once to say I did a few laps at Watkins Glen, and two years later I'm already planning where I'll go thru October (but I can quit any time I want, dammit).

You will have significant (perhaps 'massive') brake wear, but it has nothing to do with the fluid. Tracking uses brakes very hard, both for stopping and for the TCS (do leave it in sport or sport+ until you get some experience). If you love tracking, you will want to replace the stock pads with semi-trackers (I'm liking the Ferodo 2500, but there are many options); if you decide this was a one-time thing then you will be glad you didn't waste several hundred on track pads that just squeal and make dust.

Also extra wear for the tires; depending on the track, they may only last a few track-days, sometimes you can get a dozen or more. As they heat up you need to pull air out, to keep the hot pressures around 36-38 (what I use for Potenza s007; R-comps can go a little lower I think, MPSS likes higher). Take notes, so you can plan tire pressures better next time.

Some quick tips: Don't torque lugs when they are hot, no matter what anybody tells you; do it first thing in the morning. Don't use parking brake, or sit with your foot on the brakes - it will melt brake pads into a nasty smear on the rotors. For your final lap of each session try to use brakes very little to cool them down some. Drink a bottle of water between each session. Learn how to do the 'seat-belt-trick: move seat backwards 4", set the belt tensioner with a quick pull, then motor the seat forward so that you tighten the belt down hard across you (and start saving $$ for a Scroth belt set).

The big difference between racing fluid and stock is the boiling point - until it boils they all work the same, and Stock vs Race aren't that far apart. Actually better to start on factory fluid, because it boils before you cook the more expensive parts so it is a type of limiter. If you overheat things, the brakes will get spongy or greasy - if they come back after a slower lap to cool off, it was fluid boiling; if not, it is the pads overheating and you are probably done until you replace them. If your 'fix-them-now' brake warning comes on, it means you are about to be metal-on-metal and should end the session or it can get very expensive. Look at the pads after each session, and you can see how they are wearing down.

Have fun!

Last edited by Maynard; 01-20-2020 at 10:29 AM.. Reason: .
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      01-20-2020, 12:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maynard View Post
Warning - tracking is habit forming; best you just turn away now.....I thought I'd just try it once to say I did a few laps at Watkins Glen, and two years later I'm already planning where I'll go thru October (but I can quit any time I want, dammit).

You will have significant (perhaps 'massive') brake wear, but it has nothing to do with the fluid. Tracking uses brakes very hard, both for stopping and for the TCS (do leave it in sport or sport+ until you get some experience). If you love tracking, you will want to replace the stock pads with semi-trackers (I'm liking the Ferodo 2500, but there are many options); if you decide this was a one-time thing then you will be glad you didn't waste several hundred on track pads that just squeal and make dust.

Also extra wear for the tires; depending on the track, they may only last a few track-days, sometimes you can get a dozen or more. As they heat up you need to pull air out, to keep the hot pressures around 36-38 (what I use for Potenza s007; R-comps can go a little lower I think, MPSS likes higher). Take notes, so you can plan tire pressures better next time.

Some quick tips: Don't torque lugs when they are hot, no matter what anybody tells you; do it first thing in the morning. Don't use parking brake, or sit with your foot on the brakes - it will melt brake pads into a nasty smear on the rotors. For your final lap of each session try to use brakes very little to cool them down some. Drink a bottle of water between each session. Learn how to do the 'seat-belt-trick: move seat backwards 4", set the belt tensioner with a quick pull, then motor the seat forward so that you tighten the belt down hard across you (and start saving $$ for a Scroth belt set).

The big difference between racing fluid and stock is the boiling point - until it boils they all work the same, and Stock vs Race aren't that far apart. Actually better to start on factory fluid, because it boils before you cook the more expensive parts so it is a type of limiter. If you overheat things, the brakes will get spongy or greasy - if they come back after a slower lap to cool off, it was fluid boiling; if not, it is the pads overheating and you are probably done until you replace them. If your 'fix-them-now' brake warning comes on, it means you are about to be metal-on-metal and should end the session or it can get very expensive. Look at the pads after each session, and you can see how they are wearing down.

Have fun!
All of the above is well noted. Thanks Maynard
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      01-21-2020, 12:07 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laith027 View Post
Will I not have massive wear on the brake pads after the track day if running on normal brake fluid? Keeping in mind this is not my track toy and I usually drive it daily
The fluid will not wear your pads more or less.... it will just make it boil or not boil....

it it boils then you will feel fading and soft brake pedal...
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      01-21-2020, 04:26 PM   #10
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Replace the brake fluid with Motul Racing Brake Fluid 600. Your pads will last only a few laps before they overheat. Yes, yes, yes, Brembo makes the brakes but the pads are not track pads. I replaced mine with Performance Friction -08 pads. Absolutely no fade.
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      02-04-2020, 07:53 PM   #11
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I was in the same position as you, but my first track day in the M240i was just this past weekend.

My advice is do it. If it's an upgrade you are going to do in the future anyway, you might as well do it now so you get the most of your track time. Imagine how much it would suck if you paid just to end up having to take it easy on braking. I did RBF600, braided lines, EBC yellow pads and slotted rotors, but still feel like it barely sufficed.

Same advice on tires.
Make the most of your day by having the right equipment/being prepared
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      02-10-2020, 01:02 PM   #12
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So I thought to give you guys an update on the first track day last week.

TL;DR, the car exceeded my expectations: minimal tire wear (Bridgestone Potenza S001) minimal to no brake wear. And the car is an absolute joy on track.

The track was Yas Marina Circuit, night session and cool track temp definitely helped. Had 3 separate sessions of 30 mins each, went harder each session. Final sessions decided 'screw it, let's see what this thing is about' and damn did it come alive, final session was in Sport+, utilized maximum speeds on straights and turns too, no holding back.

Can imagine how an M2 LSD will enhance the experience much more, tune and some bolt ons might be coming on waaay sooner now .

P.S: whomever said tracking is addicting definitely wasnt lying...already itching for the second track Day on the 27th of March
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      04-14-2020, 02:25 PM   #13
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Cannot stress brakes enough. Depending on the track you may or may not need to go with a more aggressive pad. Also do your homework on seating the pads to the rotors. If you don't good change you'll warp your existing rotors.
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