[dradernh]

Funny, but this just occurred to me: in a perfect world, we'd have both the 230 and the 240.

Bit of background: I looked for a 228/230 I could turn into a street/track car and wound up with a 240 because that's what I could find at the time. (The basic requirements were: MT, RWD, and no sunroof.)

The wife has a 2015 Mazda 3; which, for what it is and how it's used, is a pretty neat car. I'm definitely a fan. Up to 7/10s when driven well on the street, that thing is a blast - even on UHP all-season tires.

I'd like to recommend that she trade it in on a 228/230, but that conversation would be pointless. The first question she would ask me would be: what's the cost of ownership? Mind you, I'm on my 7th BMW, so she already knows the answer. And she knows that the Mazda has been ridiculously inexpensive to run for the past 70K, and will likely remain that way for, what, I don't know...another 70K, or another 140K?

The point here for me is that I use her car as a DD, and a 228/230 would be a nice step up from the MZ3, fun as it is.

[XutvJet]

With a turbocharged car, I don't care who it is, no one shifts gears in a manual quickly enough to not interrupt turbos spooling up to keep the power band and boost consistent. Machine beats human.

I don't disagree that the 8AT will shift faster, but BMW employs some wizardry in the 6MT with timing and wastegate control to maintain a high level of boost under full throttle shifts. It is rather amazing. It doesn't hold full boost, but it holds something close to 70% boost. It's nothing like my 2012 WRX was like in terms of lag on shifts.

[BetweenTheWheels]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

I don't disagree that the 8AT will shift faster, but BMW employs some wizardry in the 6MT with timing and wastegate control to maintain a high level of boost under full throttle shifts. It is rather amazing. It doesn't hold full boost, but it holds something close to 70% boost. It's nothing like my 2012 WRX was like in terms of lag on shifts.

That's cool, I've not experienced that. I'll have to try a recent model BMW MT to feel it.

[BimBimM2]

I love this thread I really adore the "less is more" love going around. Makes me want to drive the 230i!

I have an M240i xdrive but I think that the LCA mod being mentioned here is do-able on that as well?

[Sportstick]

Originally Posted by BimBimM2

I love this thread I really adore the "less is more" love going around. Makes me want to drive the 230i!

I have an M240i xdrive but I think that the LCA mod being mentioned here is do-able on that as well?

No, sorry. XDrive makes that incompatible. A M240i rwd could accept those parts, however, manual or automatic trans.

[MichaelL]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

The choice of a 228i with a moonroof and auto is an odd one considering the OP' desire for the best all around sports car. The moonroof cuts down significantly on headroom (over 2") and adds 50lbs of weight in the worst possible place. The 8AT is a good performer but it too adds about 60lbs of additional weight over the 6MT AND does not deliver that connected driving experience that an euthusiast and purest would want from a sports car.

The issues I have with the 228 from a performance perspective are that:

1 ) The N20 motors are not reliable. They have serious timing chain issues. Buyer beware. If the chain fails, you're out a motor .

2) The N20/26 motors aren't built to the same level of durabiity as compared to an N55 or B58. They aren't as remotely reliable when tuned and many of them have been lost on the track. These motors are far more taxed with a DP and tune compared to the turbo 6s.

3) There is no factory option for an LSD. You can buy an aftermarket one, but you'll end up paying nearly twice as much as the M Performance LSD from BMW for the M235.

4) There isn't a ton more weight forward of the axle with the N55 compared to the N20/26. We're talking 1.5 cylinders being forward of the axle and the accessories. Maybe 50lbs compared to the 228.

5) The ZF 6MT in the M235 (same one as the M2-M4) is far more robust compared to Getrag 6MT in the 228.

6) The N20/26 lacking the additional heat exchangers found on the M235. Ideal for track driving.


IMO, the M235 is the better choice. The N55 in the M235 is factory modded (MPPK tune, forged crank), S55 forged rods, and S55 rod/crank bearings. The 2014+ N55 is quite reliable and robust. The MPE LSD is $2,000 and totally transforms the car. Simply adding the LSD, a MP4S square 245 width tire setup to address understeer/tire wear, stiffer rear springs, a DP, and a basic tune results in a car that delivers nearly all the performance of an M2 but with a bit better ride.

I thought the timing chain issue was sorted out with 1/2015 production of the N20? There was an update to the engine that made that no longer an issue. Thought I read that.

[IndyRed128i]

Originally Posted by Maynard

Those (cost/mileage) weren't really on my list of considerations - I think if they are then you would be better served with another brand. I think the 228 had everything I needed, and a little better balanced, so for me there was no strong reason to go to the 235. The extra power would be nice at rare times, but I'm routinely dialing myself back with the 4 cylinder on the street. On track I'm not good enough yet to need or miss the extra power, it would just mean I make my mistakes going 20mph faster. And I'd put in a plug for the x-drives; a bit heavier and harder to mod, but that awd dynamic is compelling.

Can confirm!

Having had both an X-drive and Non X-drive, I will say another added benefit is much better rear tire life.

[sethwas]

Originally Posted by Maynard

TThe extra power would be nice at rare times, but I'm routinely dialing myself back with the 4 cylinder on the street.

You hit the nail on the head here. The only thing the larger engine has for it, is well, it's a larger engine. As a daily commuter/do it all/your only car (not a track toy), any benefits to a large engine go unused/unseen - especially when the smaller engine is, as you say, sometimes too much
it makes the 228/230 the easy choice.

Seth

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by Maynard

The extra power would be nice at rare times, but I'm routinely dialing myself back with the 4 cylinder on the street.

Originally Posted by sethwas

You hit the nail on the head here.

I agree – my street driving never calls upon my M240's extra power. If it did, I doubt I'd still have my license. Or insurance!

The only place I'll ever use the final 60% of my car's power is on the track.

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Or, maybe, if I take it out West, where I ran an M635CSi quite hard back in the 1980s. That's a long way to go for that, though; and, having been-there-done-that, it doesn't have the attraction it once did. Still, with cars like ours, a non-stop Denver-->San Francisco/LA/Seattle run does have a certain attraction!

For those who haven't run the rural highways in the interior West, they're the closest opportunity we have to experience the German autobahns. While I haven't run those highways in many years, I suspect that in some ways they continue to be superior to the autobahns. Yes, this is a little-known secret.

The variables are enforcement (we have it, even it it's very light (check at the nearest gas station)), while they have none, relatively. In 2006, I met a pair of Berlin highway patrol sergeants socially who brought me up to speed on how they view autobahn regulations and their enforcement (quite variably, actually! one made it perfectly clear that she'd take me in without a second thought, while the other said she'd tell me "Please slow down, sir! Good night."). I liked that second sergeant a lot!

The other issue is the lack of traffic. In our West, if you choose the right highway, there's likely to be very little traffic. On the autobahn, there's frequently too many slow-moving vehicles. However, at 4AM, the autobahn is pretty open! lol.

[230iZTR]

Loved the video and am looking forward to your track journey with the car! It takes me down memory lane to when I was choosing between several similar cars before ultimately going with the 230i ZF8 with the Track Handling Package. I got a GoPro over the holidays so maybe I'll try my hand at documenting my build like you are.

The other cars I seriously looked into were the Cayman (too small), BRZ/86 (too small and too slow), GTi (too FWD), Ecoboost Mustang and Focus RS (rude dealer, insane markup demands on the RS), and Camaro V6 1LE (couldn't confirm pricing & availability at the time).

I ended up going with the 230i because it was RWD and turbo'd from the factory, the right size for a single person that sometimes needs to make actual use of the back seat, and still fast enough to blow me away compared to my previous cars. I ordered new because I couldn't find any 228i's in the ZF8, THP, no sunroof configuration I wanted in acceptable condition or price. An '18 also has the added benefit of standard LED headlamps, backup camera, and the new closed deck B48 2.0T, which seems to have better cooling, uses a closed deck design for the block in case I ever add a bigger turbo, and should see more aftermarket development as the current production engine.

The first thing the 2 needs, and badly, is camber up front. The LCA swap, Vorshlag camber plates, or KW Clubsports seem to be the most popular routes depending on how willing you are to put racecar parts in a daily driver.

The second thing the car needs is more tire up front. Most people seem to opt for a staggered 8.5et35/235mm and 9.5et50/265mm setup, but I'll be trying out a square 9.0et42/255mm setup with spacers to get the front clearances right in February.

The third thing that will really enable the car is an LSD. Unfortunately there aren't many options, but DiffsOnline has built custom units for several members here.

As far as power goes, all your basic bolt-ons are available, although there's not huge choice. The usual upgrade path is intake and tune for "stage 1"; add an intercooler, chargepipe, downpipe, and tune for "stage 2"; and add a big turbo and a bottom end rebuild with custom tuning for "stage 3."

As far as technical limitations go, GSR Autosport's attempts to build the car for entry level touring competition showed the N20's stock torque bolts blow up past ~375wtq and the oiling system really doesn't like heavy braking after sustained high-g right turns. Neither of those seem to have a solution for now, but its feasible with money to throw at the problem.

It's also worth noting that you can pilfer parts from the m235i Racing catalogue (especially a very well tested aero package) if you're ok with the cost. There may be a way to adapt or replicate the racecar's oil starvation solutions into the 2.0T as well, but no one has been serious enough about racing these at a track where that matters yet.

[BetweenTheWheels]

Originally Posted by 230iZTR

Loved the video and am looking forward to your track journey with the car! It takes me down memory lane to when I was choosing between several similar cars before ultimately going with the 230i ZF8 with the Track Handling Package. I got a GoPro over the holidays so maybe I'll try my hand at documenting my build like you are.

The other cars I seriously looked into were the Cayman (too small), BRZ/86 (too small and too slow), GTi (too FWD), Ecoboost Mustang and Focus RS (rude dealer, insane markup demands on the RS), and Camaro V6 1LE (couldn't confirm pricing & availability at the time).

I ended up going with the 230i because it was RWD and turbo'd from the factory, the right size for a single person that sometimes needs to make actual use of the back seat, and still fast enough to blow me away compared to my previous cars. I ordered new because I couldn't find any 228i's in the ZF8, THP, no sunroof configuration I wanted in acceptable condition or price. An '18 also has the added benefit of standard LED headlamps, backup camera, and the new closed deck B48 2.0T, which seems to have better cooling, uses a closed deck design for the block in case I ever add a bigger turbo, and should see more aftermarket development as the current production engine.

The first thing the 2 needs, and badly, is camber up front. The LCA swap, Vorshlag camber plates, or KW Clubsports seem to be the most popular routes depending on how willing you are to put racecar parts in a daily driver.

The second thing the car needs is more tire up front. Most people seem to opt for a staggered 8.5et35/235mm and 9.5et50/265mm setup, but I'll be trying out a square 9.0et42/255mm setup with spacers to get the front clearances right in February.

The third thing that will really enable the car is an LSD. Unfortunately there aren't many options, but DiffsOnline has built custom units for several members here.

As far as power goes, all your basic bolt-ons are available, although there's not huge choice. The usual upgrade path is intake and tune for "stage 1"; add an intercooler, chargepipe, downpipe, and tune for "stage 2"; and add a big turbo and a bottom end rebuild with custom tuning for "stage 3."

As far as technical limitations go, GSR Autosport's attempts to build the car for entry level touring competition showed the N20's stock torque bolts blow up past ~375wtq and the oiling system really doesn't like heavy braking after sustained high-g right turns. Neither of those seem to have a solution for now, but its feasible with money to throw at the problem.

It's also worth noting that you can pilfer parts from the m235i Racing catalogue (especially a very well tested aero package) if you're ok with the cost. There may be a way to adapt or replicate the racecar's oil starvation solutions into the 2.0T as well, but no one has been serious enough about racing these at a track where that matters yet.

Excellent notes and thank you for sharing your own journey.

I'll continue to document mine and, admittedly, I have some decisions to make. Even with my previous track car, I was never going to strip it down to pure race car usage so I'll need to decide how much is enough with this one to satisfy my need to track it and desire to keep it street worthy.

For now, I think my next steps will be:

- spacers and wheel studs
- braided brake lines, track pads and 5.1 fluid

Then track a bit and assess.

Then, perhaps.

- tires and lighter wheels (once I make the current rubber bald!)
- LCA replacement
- LSD?
- some light power adds which also give me some fun, like exhaust, maybe air box, MAYBE a light tune.

And from there.... we shall see!

[3rdcoast228i]

I'm getting close to 3 years with my 228i m-sport. I don't track like some of you but I throughly enjoy the car.

It really fits the practical side while still being tons of fun to drive. I had my choice and I'm happy with that decision.

[caycep]

Originally Posted by Sportstick

It is very detectable, more prompt and feels tighter....both! My Service Advisor who managed the installation at the dealership was worried the additional degree of negative camber would make the steering "darty". Not at all...it was all a good change! I think every MSport or Track Package should have included this change. The change of the contact patch makes the car respond instantly, eliminating what some describe as the "dead spot" on-center. The overall degree of vehicle turn seems constant, but it responds much more quickly. Very much more fun/responsive/entertaining! It makes the car feel more "alive". I think it was the single best modification I made among those in my signature. The only downside I've been told is a small loss of tread life...well worth it meanwhile.

I kind of wonder, can you get that degree of camber on the stock LCAs?

[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by caycep

I kind of wonder, can you get that degree of camber on the stock LCAs?

Only with camber plates or adjustable LCA bushings (which usually give +/- .5*)