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      05-08-2015, 04:37 PM   #1
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F22 HK Amplifier Connector Pinouts

Im adding an aftermarket amp for a subwoofer and i need remote amp turn on lead, and speaker wires for a line-output-converter to RCA. I'd like to pull these wires straight from the factory harness.

Does anyone have the wiring diagram of the Harmon Kardon amp connectors ?

Are the factory battery terminals good for ring terminals, or does it need to be extended with studs?
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      05-10-2015, 09:45 PM   #2
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SD Amp/Subwoofer install

I just installed a Sundown SAE-1000D mono amplifier, and single SA-12 subwoofer in the trunk of my F22 to add some low end response to the poor factory HK system.

Overall the install was fairly simple and quick.

The stock amplifier is in the trunk behind the left side trunk liner, along with the dreaded ASD module. The idrive headunit has low-level outputs that go into the ASD first, and then into the HK amplifier as low-levels and finally to the speakers as high-level outputs. So you can't just unplug ASD to bypass it, you must actually rewire the headunit directly to amplifier if you want a hard bypass, it's easy if you use some quick splice connectors, or better yet Technic's PnP ASD Bypass Harness ( https://technicpnp.com/product/asd-bypass-harness/ ). But that's another topic totally.

I found the iDrive HU output levels to be averaging around 2v AC (balanced low-level outputs), i measured some peaks around 3.1v or so.

First option, If you wanted to, you could just grab one of these outputs for the Front or Rear channels and cable them to two female RCA's and ran an RCA cable that inputs directly to your AMP's low level inputs and be done with it. This is one option.

But you will still need a remote wire though... read on.

Second option, You can grab the OEM underseat subwoofer outputs directly at the amplifier module harness, BLK/RED and BLK/BRN (Front/Left woofer), and BLU/RED and BLU/BRN (Front/right woofer). The HK (or Bang & Olufsen) systems subwoofer outputs have pretty high voltages, upwards of 25-30v. Most amps only support 11-16v max, if you don't tread cautiously and use a proper LOC that supports this you will eventually burn up your amp's inputs. The normal HIFI system doesn't have these higher volt outputs, a normal 50w LOC would be sufficient.

The only high-voltage LOC that i recommend for the HK/Bang & Olufsen integrations is the Audiocontrol LC2i.
http://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audi...-upgrade/lc2i/

***Your mileage may vary, check your amp's manual for specs, if unsure just use the Audiocontrol LC2i LOC ***

Third, If you need a remote turn on lead for the amp, you can grab it from the BLK/BLU wire in the ASD (pin 7) harness. There is also a remote output from the iDrive HU in the ASD harness, (BLK, pin 10), but it's a very low current, high impedance output, and won't supply enough current to drive the coil of a relay (150ma or so).

For the second option using high-level outputs from the HK/B&O amp, you can use a separate LOC that supports high voltages up to 150w input, ala Audiocontrol LC2i ( http://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audi...-upgrade/lc2i/ ) and tap the sub wires at the HK harness. All others use an LOC that supports atleast 50w or more.

An alternative / much better plug-n-play solution, is to use Technic's Add-a-sub harness ( https://technicpnp.com/product/hifi-add-sub-harnessloc/ ).

The latter is a more universal solution for a quick and reversible install, it grabs all the wires you need, adds a remote wire, and even gives you the proper low-level RCA outputs from an LOC that was designed for high-voltages (David Navone engineering LOC). TechnicPNP uses a custom version of this one specifically for his BMW harnesses.
http://davidnavone.com/product/n-rhl...put-converter/

Beware of all other LOC's that only support 30-50w per channel. And that don't specifically state support voltages up to 30v, these will not be good with the HK/B&O systems.

Here are the wiring diagrams that I used from my research for this project. They are the same diagram, but the second is just a close-up on the Head-unit/ASD/Amp connectors. You'll notice the first includes all the amp/speaker connections.

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Output descriptions
Front Left = NF_VL+ and NF_VL-
Front Right = NF_VR+ and NF_VR-
Left Rear = NF_HL+ and NF_HL-
Right Right = NF_HR+ and NF_HR-

The alternator in this car is huge @ 210amp, and the electrical system is extremely beefy to handle "extra loads". You can you wire an amplifier in the trunk with less than 3 ft of power and ground cable direct to + and - studs you can have an amp up in no time. The battery studs are 13mm nuts, be careful when using metal tools around these The plastic cover on the positive stud pops off easy, and you don't want to hit that when your on a ground or vice-versa.

Absolutely make sure you fuse your positive amp feed as close as you can to the positive stud, and within proper ampacity of the wire. The amp has it's own fuses, your protecting the wire from shorting to ground. I used a 125 amp mini-ANL fuse for my 4 gauge wire.

If your feeling plug-n-play you can also get connectors for the factory distribution block, and just plug it in. Just add some 4ga wire and you have a pretty cool, almost factory install.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E90-F10-...ZWBdNj&vxp=mtr

Hopefully this helps somebody in the future.

Last edited by zipphreak; 01-04-2017 at 08:23 PM..
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      05-11-2015, 07:09 PM   #3
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Thank you for this info!
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      03-04-2016, 06:26 AM   #4
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remote turn on lead and Black Wire Location

Quote:
Originally Posted by zipphreak View Post
I just installed a Sundown SAE-1000D mono amplifier, and single SA-12 subwoofer in the trunk of my F22 to add some low end response to the poor factory HK system.

Overall the install was fairly simple and quick. More so if your amp has high-level speaker inputs it makes install a snap.

The stock amplifier is in the trunk behind the left trunk mat, along with the dreaded ASD module. The headunit speaker outputs go into the ASD first, and then into the amplifier and finally to the speakers. You can't just unplug ASD to bypass it, you must actually rewire headunit directly to amplifier if you want a hard bypass. But that's another topic totally.

You can grab headunit speaker ouputs, right left (+ Br/Blu, - Br/rd) and right rear (+ Gr/Ye, - Gr, Blk) wires directly at the ASD module harness. If you need a remote turn on lead for the amp, grab it from the black wire in the ASD harness. But my amp had remote turn-on feature from just the speaker level inputs, so no additional wires were necessary. Your mileage may vary, check your amp's manual.

There are also Line output converters (LOC) or a line deferential converters if you only have RCA inputs on your amp. Both of these are good products and they give you a remote turn-on wire, which means one less factory wire to tap.

http://www.pac-audio.com/productDeta...ProductId=1188

http://axxessinterfaces.com/index.ph...products_id=18

Here are the wiring diagrams that I used from my research for this project. They are the same diagram, but the second is just a close-up on the Head-unit/ASD/Amp connectors. You'll notice the first includes all the amp/speaker connections.

Attachment 1207145

Attachment 1207146

The alternator in this car is huge @ 210amp, and the electrical system is extremely beefy to handle "extra loads". You can you wire an amplifier in the trunk with less than 3 ft of power and ground cable direct to + and - studs you can have an amp up in no time. The battery studs are 13mm nuts, be careful when using metal tools around these The plastic cover on the positive stud pops off easy, and you don't want to hit that when your on a ground or vice-versa.

Absolutely make sure you fuse your positive amp feed as close as you can to the positive stud, and within proper ampacity of the wire. The amp has it's own fuses, your protecting the wire from shorting to ground. I used a 125 amp mini-ANL fuse for my 4 gauge wire.

Hopefully this helps somebody in the future.
Hello zipphreak,

Just bought a 2016 M235i and installing amp and subwoofer (Kicker) and your info was very helpful to confirm what I discovered. I wish I would have found your article sooner it would have same me some time. :-)

I prefer not to use a LOC, so noticed your comment "If you need a remote turn on lead for the amp, grab it from the black wire in the ASD harness." So, wanted to confirm the location and based on your article you stated "stock amplifier is in the trunk behind the left trunk mat, along with the dreaded ASD module." When you say "left trunk mat" do you mean the left panel that covers part of the floor and up the left/driver side quarter panel in the trunk?

Thank you
Wil
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      03-04-2016, 10:17 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zipphreak View Post
I just installed a Sundown SAE-1000D mono amplifier, and single SA-12 subwoofer in the trunk of my F22 to add some low end response to the poor factory HK system.

Overall the install was fairly simple and quick. More so if your amp has high-level speaker inputs it makes install a snap.

The stock amplifier is in the trunk behind the left trunk mat, along with the dreaded ASD module. The headunit speaker outputs go into the ASD first, and then into the amplifier and finally to the speakers. You can't just unplug ASD to bypass it, you must actually rewire headunit directly to amplifier if you want a hard bypass. But that's another topic totally.

You can grab headunit speaker ouputs, right left (+ Br/Blu, - Br/rd) and right rear (+ Gr/Ye, - Gr, Blk) wires directly at the ASD module harness. If you need a remote turn on lead for the amp, grab it from the black wire in the ASD harness. But my amp had remote turn-on feature from just the speaker level inputs, so no additional wires were necessary. Your mileage may vary, check your amp's manual.

There are also Line output converters (LOC) or a line deferential converters if you only have RCA inputs on your amp. Both of these are good products and they give you a remote turn-on wire, which means one less factory wire to tap.

http://www.pac-audio.com/productDeta...ProductId=1188

http://axxessinterfaces.com/index.ph...products_id=18

Here are the wiring diagrams that I used from my research for this project. They are the same diagram, but the second is just a close-up on the Head-unit/ASD/Amp connectors. You'll notice the first includes all the amp/speaker connections.

Attachment 1207145

Attachment 1207146

The alternator in this car is huge @ 210amp, and the electrical system is extremely beefy to handle "extra loads". You can you wire an amplifier in the trunk with less than 3 ft of power and ground cable direct to + and - studs you can have an amp up in no time. The battery studs are 13mm nuts, be careful when using metal tools around these The plastic cover on the positive stud pops off easy, and you don't want to hit that when your on a ground or vice-versa.

Absolutely make sure you fuse your positive amp feed as close as you can to the positive stud, and within proper ampacity of the wire. The amp has it's own fuses, your protecting the wire from shorting to ground. I used a 125 amp mini-ANL fuse for my 4 gauge wire.

Hopefully this helps somebody in the future.
Hopefully? You're being modest, my man. This is bellwether stuff, particularly the harness diagrams.

I hereby nominate this thread for a sticky.
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      11-29-2016, 04:55 PM   #6
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I made an update to this original post, and corrected some information based on additional research.
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      01-04-2017, 05:23 PM   #7
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Bookmarked and much appreciated!
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      05-22-2017, 09:59 PM   #8
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Old thread but I have a question.

Does it work best to drive the sub off of the front or rear signals?

Thanks

Last edited by CO_Steve; 05-26-2017 at 08:48 AM..
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      05-26-2017, 09:48 AM   #9
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Doesn't matter, but you should use a proper LOC that supports balanced inputs to unbalanced outputs if your amp does not support balanced inputs..

Remember your fade plays a role in the voltage between front and rear channels.. So if you fade to the rear, the rear gets louder, front gets softer. There is no composite channel unless you use an audiocontrol device for example that takes both front/rear inputs, and gives you front/rear/sub outputs and line driving.. But that's overkill if your not putting in a separate amp for the speakers.
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      02-14-2018, 06:21 PM   #10
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Technic Add-a-sub harness

Looking to get the harness from technic but how would it work with my ASD bypass harness that is already installed?
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      02-15-2018, 03:13 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uisynot View Post
Looking to get the harness from technic but how would it work with my ASD bypass harness that is already installed?
Which harness? The ASD Delete harness and the Add-an-Amp harness are separate pieces that install in separate locations.

The Add-a-Sub harness goes in the same place that the Add-an-Amp harness does, but I'm not sure if both can be used together (i.e., daisy-chained in series); I would contact Technic about that.
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      02-16-2018, 01:17 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viffermike View Post
Which harness? The ASD Delete harness and the Add-an-Amp harness are separate pieces that install in separate locations.

The Add-a-Sub harness goes in the same place that the Add-an-Amp harness does, but I'm not sure if both can be used together (i.e., daisy-chained in series); I would contact Technic about that.
Got an email from Technic saying that the Add-a-sub and ASD harness go in separate places... Not sure if this is true since you are saying they go in the same spot.
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      02-19-2018, 10:02 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uisynot View Post
Got an email from Technic saying that the Add-a-sub and ASD harness go in separate places... Not sure if this is true since you are saying they go in the same spot.
Dude: That's precisely what I state in my previous post.

Add-an-Amp: Allows you to add a conventional multichannel amplifier to the signal chain without cutting wires.
Add-a-Sub: Allows you to add a dedicated subwoofer setup (amplifier, sub) to the signal chain without cutting wires.
ASD Delete: Removes the active sound from the signal chain.

You need to ask if you can use an Add-an-amp and Add-a-Sub simultaneously as a daisy chain.
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      03-07-2018, 09:36 PM   #14
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Using both Technic add a amp and asd delete simultaneously

Compliments to VifferMike and Eias from Technic. I'm using both harnesses simultaneously. They work great without issues i.e. hum, hiss, etc. Setup with JL XD 600/6v2, the Focal IFBMW-S in the front doors (car equipped with Hi-Fi sys). Tried to install the Focal IFBMW-C on the rear deck but they don't fit, not even close. Awaiting a pair of JL C5 400cm's that should fit. I should have listened to VifferMike and gone with the JL cx 400 but i figured if i'm spending 5 bills on a great amp i might as well try and do better than a 140 dollar pair of speakers. These should sound marginally better. If i like them and can get them to fit i may add the matching tweeter JL (C5-075ct) and crossovers. I'll Eventually replace the Hi-Fi sys subs under the seats with the focal IFBMW-Subv2. When i installed the JL amp and the Technic harnesses and the dynamat in the trunk i installed the JL FIX 86 before the amp. After calibration of the FiX i lost the front tweeters. I checked all connections and recalibrated the JL FiX and still lost both front tweeters. I disconnected it and returned it. The only DSP unit i would consider is the Alpine PXA-H800 with it's included microphone. It's one of the only units that performs auto-calibration similar to what we've become accustomed to with home theater pre-pros and receivers. But it goes for $700 and that's too much.
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      06-04-2020, 09:01 AM   #15
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The thread has almost all the information I need to install a mono amp with a sub to my HK system.

Yet I have one question about this statement below

"The HK (or Bang & Olufsen) systems subwoofer outputs have pretty high voltages, upwards of 25-30v"

The amp I'm planning to use has maximum of 10V support for high level inputs. So I definetely need the recommended LOC. However, another option is to use one of other speakers output (say rear left) which I assume is lower than 10V. Is my assumption correct? Subwoofer outs may have low passed signal. Rear does not. So I'll count on my amplifiers LPF here. I'm not changing the balance/fader anyway. This way I can eliminate the need for a LOC, hopefully.

BTW I don't have ASD on my 2.18i. So I assume, car doesn't have the ASD module. Not sure if it will ease some things for me though.

Thanks a lot for the precious information. There is no other word about this topic on the whole internet. Very much appriciated.

Last edited by Alpintosh; 06-04-2020 at 09:08 AM..
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      06-04-2020, 11:39 AM   #16
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The 2-Series Top HiFi OEM amp is 674 -woofer outputs are in the 17Vp range. The 25-30V are from the Top HiFi(688) OEM amp woofer outputs in the 3-Series and above.

There is no bass in the front or rear speakers so no LPF will create bass for a sub where there is none.

If you do not want to use a LOC then you need to tap the OEM amp inputs which are low level and full range, however the requirement is that your aftermarket amp must accept balanced inputs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpintosh View Post
The thread has almost all the information I need to install a mono amp with a sub to my HK system.

Yet I have one question about this statement below

"The HK (or Bang & Olufsen) systems subwoofer outputs have pretty high voltages, upwards of 25-30v"

The amp I'm planning to use has maximum of 10V support for high level inputs. So I definetely need the recommended LOC. However, another option is to use one of other speakers output (say rear left) which I assume is lower than 10V. Is my assumption correct? Subwoofer outs may have low passed signal. Rear does not. So I'll count on my amplifiers LPF here. I'm not changing the balance/fader anyway. This way I can eliminate the need for a LOC, hopefully.

BTW I don't have ASD on my 2.18i. So I assume, car doesn't have the ASD module. Not sure if it will ease some things for me though.

Thanks a lot for the precious information. There is no other word about this topic on the whole internet. Very much appriciated.
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      06-04-2020, 02:51 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Encanto View Post
The 2-Series Top HiFi OEM amp is 674 -woofer outputs are in the 17Vp range. The 25-30V are from the Top HiFi(688) OEM amp woofer outputs in the 3-Series and above.

There is no bass in the front or rear speakers so no LPF will create bass for a sub where there is none.

If you do not want to use a LOC then you need to tap the OEM amp inputs which are low level and full range, however the requirement is that your aftermarket amp must accept balanced inputs.
Yeah. I have S674A HK system. If woofer outputs are around 17V, I might give that a try to connect to Pioneer D8701 Mono amp, which supports up to16V high level inputs. I think I can bring down the bass one or two step from the head unit eq and stay in the safe zone.

I'm not willing to buy a LOC, especially Audiocontrol LC2i, because it costs almost the same as the amp, which is a valid reason to avoid. If a 20-30 dolar LOC will suffice, I might as well give that a try, given the woofer output is only 17V, not 25-30V
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      06-13-2020, 08:47 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpintosh View Post
Yeah. I have S674A HK system. If woofer outputs are around 17V, I might give that a try to connect to Pioneer D8701 Mono amp, which supports up to16V high level inputs. I think I can bring down the bass one or two step from the head unit eq and stay in the safe zone.

I'm not willing to buy a LOC, especially Audiocontrol LC2i, because it costs almost the same as the amp, which is a valid reason to avoid. If a 20-30 dolar LOC will suffice, I might as well give that a try, given the woofer output is only 17V, not 25-30V
Or you could just buy the add-a-sub kit from Elias and it comes with a LOC for 85 bucks and you support an awesome dude.

I have to also say that second post in this thread may be one of the best posts ever, even with the small inaccuracy equating the B&O voltages with the HK.
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      06-13-2020, 10:34 AM   #19
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I just finished adding a Sundown SFB1000D and 2 Sundown 10's using the Technic add-a-sub harness. It truly is the way to go. Such a simple, tidy way to go about things. A couple of plugs and you done. You get your LOC and turn on lead without having to hack into the factory harness. Easily removed to go back to stock without a trace of disturbance to the factory wiring or system. Very clean output as well, no hum or hiss.
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