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      05-09-2018, 07:23 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalMK View Post
Just curious how much did this entire setup cost you?
Entire suspension/brake setup? Or entire car setup?

I can tell you that including the cost of the car, and all mods, I'm well under the turn key cost of owning a new, stock, M2.

PM me if you want particulars, I got a lot of the expensive stuff at heavy discounts. For example, iND was selling these coilovers for 1/3 of the price, new. They were take offs from one of their builds. I got the Apex wheels on a group buy. The BBK was bought from another forum member, used.

Both the Clubsports and the BBK came to me only because I was patient through the process of collecting parts. I would not have purchased them, new, it was simply out of budget. I was about to pull the trigger on Ohlins R&T when I decided that the CS's were too good of a deal to pass. The Brakes came more recently, I was going to be spending about $1500CDN just to put OEM 370mm Brembo's from the F30, new rotors etc, then decided for a bit more, I should just get this BBK, instead. Those two pieces, alone, are the most expensive to buy up front, everything else is pretty standard across the industry, like sway bars, bushings, links, they were all reasonable. Prices are out there on most things, but I've never tallied up my actual cost... If I had to guess, including engine mods, interior bits, and suspension, maybe $10k USD? I wouldn't expect most people to wait for deals, as I did, though. This same build could equate to close to 50% more, if you were to swipe the CC and buy everything new, at list prices..

Hope that helps?

D
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      05-09-2018, 10:48 PM   #24
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G'day Dylan,

Great thread! Can I ask what differential bushings you put in there? From what you're saying, it's just what the doctor ordered for my 6MT m235i.

Thanks - Ken
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      05-10-2018, 09:55 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lipper View Post
G'day Dylan,

Great thread! Can I ask what differential bushings you put in there? From what you're saying, it's just what the doctor ordered for my 6MT m235i.

Thanks - Ken
Hi Ken

I have the Turner Motorsports/ Derlin solid diff bushings. Are you doing them along with anything else?
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      05-10-2018, 03:53 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dylan86 View Post
Hi Ken

I have the Turner Motorsports/ Derlin solid diff bushings. Are you doing them along with anything else?
I've already done standard bolt-ons: JB-4, catless DP, Intercooler, Intercooler pipes on both sides.

I was thinking of doing the complete subframe-bushing kit (from Turner) which includes the diff bushings. That, or just the diff bushings.

Thanks for the input!

Ken
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      05-10-2018, 04:30 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dylan86 View Post
Hi Ken

I have the Turner Motorsports/ Derlin solid diff bushings. Are you doing them along with anything else?
It's Delrin.
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      05-10-2018, 05:27 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lipper View Post
I've already done standard bolt-ons: JB-4, catless DP, Intercooler, Intercooler pipes on both sides.

I was thinking of doing the complete subframe-bushing kit (from Turner) which includes the diff bushings. That, or just the diff bushings.

Thanks for the input!

Ken
Do you have an LSD already? If not this would promote inner wheel spin, for sure..

Quote:
Originally Posted by cxp213 View Post
It's Delrin.
Yea, I bought them through Turner. No branding on them or the packaging, so wasn’t sure if it was their line or that they’re a reseller. Cheers

D
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      05-10-2018, 05:50 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dylan86 View Post
Entire suspension/brake setup? Or entire car setup?

I can tell you that including the cost of the car, and all mods, I'm well under the turn key cost of owning a new, stock, M2.

PM me if you want particulars, I got a lot of the expensive stuff at heavy discounts. For example, iND was selling these coilovers for 1/3 of the price, new. They were take offs from one of their builds. I got the Apex wheels on a group buy. The BBK was bought from another forum member, used.

Both the Clubsports and the BBK came to me only because I was patient through the process of collecting parts. I would not have purchased them, new, it was simply out of budget. I was about to pull the trigger on Ohlins R&T when I decided that the CS's were too good of a deal to pass. The Brakes came more recently, I was going to be spending about $1500CDN just to put OEM 370mm Brembo's from the F30, new rotors etc, then decided for a bit more, I should just get this BBK, instead. Those two pieces, alone, are the most expensive to buy up front, everything else is pretty standard across the industry, like sway bars, bushings, links, they were all reasonable. Prices are out there on most things, but I've never tallied up my actual cost... If I had to guess, including engine mods, interior bits, and suspension, maybe $10k USD? I wouldn't expect most people to wait for deals, as I did, though. This same build could equate to close to 50% more, if you were to swipe the CC and buy everything new, at list prices..

Hope that helps?

D
Oh, I was wondering how much did the suspension/brake setup cost you in CAD? And do you know any suspension mods for Xdrive 2 series? I am having a hard time looking for them because if I install parts for RWD on Xdrive the rear of the car would sit way too low, like slammed.
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      05-18-2018, 07:17 PM   #30
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Update:

Have had a couple of weeks to fine tune the dampers for my local roads, and am very happy with how it handles the low/high speed bumps. Having the ability to tune the low -speed compression damping really allows you to customize how the car drives on public roads, with all of the imperfections you'll be faced with. Had a spirited mountain drive the other evening and can already feel the confidence in the car at speeds. There is a few fast twisty sections going up a local pass, that I am carrying about 20-30km/h more speed than what I used to, and the car had more in it! Can't wait to get this car back to Area27 race track, I feel like I'll chop 7-10 seconds off between the suspension tuning, brakes, and the tires that I'll be running.

KW EDC Cancel "diodes" - WHAT A FUC**** WASTE OF MONEY!!! Too bad I had these sitting for so long, can't warranty or return these POS's. I'm so mad at myself for not listening to the F8x guys about these being a waste of money. They worked for two weeks, and now everything's gone haywire with regard to my ABS/DSC/FEM modules, ugh. Now I'm stuck in bloody "comfort" mode for the time being, cant go WOT until 4th, lol. Will be removing them and coding the car, as I SHOULD have, to deal with the EDC related error codes/lights. Sometimes I don't mind spending the extra $$ to do something "clean" and "plug & play", even though there is an option to do the same for 75% less. Lesson learned, stay cheap, it doesn't always pay to have the "better" option. Coding can be reversed just the same as unplugging a diode, etc..

Track wheel fitment: Looks like I will have to modify my front calipers slightly in order to allow fitment of the Apex ARC 8's, or most 18" wheels, for that matter. I invested into these wheels prior to acquiring the 380mm BBK, so this was not something I had initially planned, to do. Therefor, I will run with what I have, now, and take off the 1mil or so of material off of the portion of caliper that makes contact with the inner barrel of the wheel. Shitty that I have to do it, but it's not an area that is a cause for concern, both integrity wise and cosmetically. Will be doing this next weekend, when I'm finished a project I'm working on, for work..

The alignment, lol. Man o man, this was time consuming. I had the car set up pretty good on day 1, but then as I started to tune in the optimal ride height, front camber, etc, it altered my initial setup (obviously). I then decided to use the time back on the rack, to make marks on my camber plates for -3.5* for track use and -2.5* for street use. I didn't realize until the 4th or 5th time, adjusting the top hats, that the drivers side shock tower is square, and the passenger side is off center, so every time I'd go to line and measure up on the driver side, to match the passenger, I'd have almost a full extra degree of camber. Was a bit of a mind f***, but once I realized that both sides are not the same, I simply made individual adjustments until I achieved the camber I was after. Alignment now finished for the time being, next time I change it, will be at the track. I also got the rear toe a little bit closer to factory, as opposed to 0, it was a bit much for daily driving..

All said and done, in a couple of weeks the painful setup and changes needed to wrap up my build will be finished, and I'll be able to move forward with my event plans for the spring/summer/fall. I have a shop that I've connected with, in Kelowna BC, who will be doing a corner balance on the car, and once that's done, it's onto the tarmac, for me! Should be 4-5 events this year, not including test/tune days, so I should really have a good understanding of where my skills are at, in relation to the capability of the newly setup car, by the years end. I was over driving this car last year, with street tires and dinan suspension, and feel I've covered all of the areas that showed the weaknesses. Needless to say I'm very excited, and hopefully the car and it's new capabilities are everything I was looking for, when I started acquiring parts and venturing down this path.

I will make sure to keep this journal updated with pics from the build (still haven't had time to upload the 100+ photos of the sway bar job, rear end, etc), and ongoing updates/changes to the car, if any.
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Last edited by Dylan86; 05-18-2018 at 08:03 PM..
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      05-24-2018, 02:50 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalMK View Post
Oh, I was wondering how much did the suspension/brake setup cost you in CAD? And do you know any suspension mods for Xdrive 2 series? I am having a hard time looking for them because if I install parts for RWD on Xdrive the rear of the car would sit way too low, like slammed.
I've responded to your PM. Cheers


The back ordered RE-71's arrived yesterday. Reallllly makes me want to get those 18's mounted, lol



Hoping to have time this weekend to do the caliper modifications so I can get the wheels mounted and take a mountain tour with the GoPro, keep y'all posted.

D
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      06-14-2018, 10:37 PM   #32
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I noticed the same thing with my Vorshlag camber plates after the initial alignment! Drivers side notches (top hats) were not symmetrical with the passenger side. I'm currently running -2.5 camber up front and I'm about out of room for camber adjustment on the driver's side (4mm?) vs. a good (10-15mm) for the passenger side. I found this weird so I sent Vorshlag a message and am currently waiting for a reply!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dylan86 View Post
Update:

Have had a couple of weeks to fine tune the dampers for my local roads, and am very happy with how it handles the low/high speed bumps. Having the ability to tune the low -speed compression damping really allows you to customize how the car drives on public roads, with all of the imperfections you'll be faced with. Had a spirited mountain drive the other evening and can already feel the confidence in the car at speeds. There is a few fast twisty sections going up a local pass, that I am carrying about 20-30km/h more speed than what I used to, and the car had more in it! Can't wait to get this car back to Area27 race track, I feel like I'll chop 7-10 seconds off between the suspension tuning, brakes, and the tires that I'll be running.

KW EDC Cancel "diodes" - WHAT A FUC**** WASTE OF MONEY!!! Too bad I had these sitting for so long, can't warranty or return these POS's. I'm so mad at myself for not listening to the F8x guys about these being a waste of money. They worked for two weeks, and now everything's gone haywire with regard to my ABS/DSC/FEM modules, ugh. Now I'm stuck in bloody "comfort" mode for the time being, cant go WOT until 4th, lol. Will be removing them and coding the car, as I SHOULD have, to deal with the EDC related error codes/lights. Sometimes I don't mind spending the extra $$ to do something "clean" and "plug & play", even though there is an option to do the same for 75% less. Lesson learned, stay cheap, it doesn't always pay to have the "better" option. Coding can be reversed just the same as unplugging a diode, etc..

Track wheel fitment: Looks like I will have to modify my front calipers slightly in order to allow fitment of the Apex ARC 8's, or most 18" wheels, for that matter. I invested into these wheels prior to acquiring the 380mm BBK, so this was not something I had initially planned, to do. Therefor, I will run with what I have, now, and take off the 1mil or so of material off of the portion of caliper that makes contact with the inner barrel of the wheel. Shitty that I have to do it, but it's not an area that is a cause for concern, both integrity wise and cosmetically. Will be doing this next weekend, when I'm finished a project I'm working on, for work..

The alignment, lol. Man o man, this was time consuming. I had the car set up pretty good on day 1, but then as I started to tune in the optimal ride height, front camber, etc, it altered my initial setup (obviously). I then decided to use the time back on the rack, to make marks on my camber plates for -3.5* for track use and -2.5* for street use. I didn't realize until the 4th or 5th time, adjusting the top hats, that the drivers side shock tower is square, and the passenger side is off center, so every time I'd go to line and measure up on the driver side, to match the passenger, I'd have almost a full extra degree of camber. Was a bit of a mind f***, but once I realized that both sides are not the same, I simply made individual adjustments until I achieved the camber I was after. Alignment now finished for the time being, next time I change it, will be at the track. I also got the rear toe a little bit closer to factory, as opposed to 0, it was a bit much for daily driving..

All said and done, in a couple of weeks the painful setup and changes needed to wrap up my build will be finished, and I'll be able to move forward with my event plans for the spring/summer/fall. I have a shop that I've connected with, in Kelowna BC, who will be doing a corner balance on the car, and once that's done, it's onto the tarmac, for me! Should be 4-5 events this year, not including test/tune days, so I should really have a good understanding of where my skills are at, in relation to the capability of the newly setup car, by the years end. I was over driving this car last year, with street tires and dinan suspension, and feel I've covered all of the areas that showed the weaknesses. Needless to say I'm very excited, and hopefully the car and it's new capabilities are everything I was looking for, when I started acquiring parts and venturing down this path.

I will make sure to keep this journal updated with pics from the build (still haven't had time to upload the 100+ photos of the sway bar job, rear end, etc), and ongoing updates/changes to the car, if any.
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      07-17-2018, 10:25 AM   #33
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beautiful. love it
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      09-12-2018, 01:13 PM   #34
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Dylan86 Have you got any update regarding oil starvation and the M2 oil pickup tube?
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      10-20-2018, 05:27 AM   #35
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epic build! Out of curiosity what oil are you running in the car?
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      10-20-2018, 03:40 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R3LMV View Post
Dylan86 Have you got any update regarding oil starvation and the M2 oil pickup tube?
No updates, haven't experienced this. I plan on retrofitting the M2/M235iR oil pump pick up tube, though, for next year.

Work has consumed me since July, haven't spent much time with the car aside from weekend rips and a casual track day for my birthday. The car is set to go, two sets of tires mounted on track rims, finally received my back-ordered PFC brake pads for the Brembo GT's, so I'll have those for next year, no more waiting..

And due to a career opportunity, I have taken a 2-3 year position back in Ontario, where I'll be close to my favourite track, Mosport (Canadian Tire Motorsports Park), and Shannonville Racetrack. Where I live now, the closes track is about 3 hours, and it's hella $$ to get seat time, due to it being a private "members only" facility.

I expect 8-10 track days, next year, at a minimum. The suspension is all dialed in, have been fine tuning it all year and have found the absolute best right height/damping balance for rough to average street conditions, as well as the track settings which I started with. It's amazing how much damping/rebound range is in these Clubsports, they're a true street/track coilover, with the adaptability via adjustments.

Just a couple of fall weeks left, I may get out to the highway passes tomorrow for one final rip (it's close to freezing temps up there), maybe strap the action cam onto the car for fun, will see
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      10-20-2018, 03:50 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChristosD View Post
epic build! Out of curiosity what oil are you running in the car?
Thanks Chistos, the build was worth it! It has transformed the car, 10-fold

I'm still under the maintenance plan, but do my own dump/fill with Motul 5w30 in between dealer service intervals. Never been passed 5-6k kms without fresh oil
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      10-20-2018, 06:01 PM   #38
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The "final" ride height for DD'ing, still pretty low, but no rubbing, scraping etc

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      01-11-2019, 08:15 PM   #39
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Wheel fitment?
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      04-23-2019, 11:58 PM   #40
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Quote:
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Wheel fitment?
Here's a link to another thread where he talks about it.

255/35R18 RE71-R's with 18x9et42 Apex Arc-8's square. F: 2.5-3.0 deg camber / 7.5mm spacer / shaved calipers 1mm; R: 2.0 deg camber.

Did I get that right?

Edit: Fenders not rolled
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Last edited by 230iZTR; 04-25-2019 at 06:56 PM.. Reason: Removed Fender roll
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      04-24-2019, 02:03 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 230iZTR View Post
Here's a link to another thread where he talks about it.

255/35R18 RE71-R's with 18x9et42 Apex Arc-8's square. F: 2.5-3.0 deg camber / 7.5mm spacer / shaved calipers 1mm / aggressive fender roll; R: 2.0 deg camber.

Did I get that right?
Hey hey, close!

So the fitment "issue" I had was simply due to the 380mm rotor setup up front. I've since purchased a full 355mm replacement disc/hat set, and brackets ($$ F me). No more fitment issues, or concerns with debris damaging the calipers/wheels from lack-of clearance. It takes very little time to swap, so I'll probably still use the larger rotors for DD'ing with my 19's.

No fender roll whatsoever.. yet. Might do this so I can dial out a bit of camber for certain tracks..
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      07-24-2019, 04:50 PM   #42
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It has been 3 months to this day since I last posted an update of any kind. Here's what has been happening:

End of May, I flew out from Ontario to BC, pulled the car out of storage and drove the stiff son-bitch 3800kms to my new home (for a few years) in Smiths Falls, Ontario, in just under 3 days. The car did well, but I made a couple of key mistakes.

1) I forgot to lower the tire pressure from storage, and burned off 2x PS4S's in the rear, about 4.5k kms into the trip. Thank GOODNESS I was only 4 hours from home, and was able to bring spare wheels to get the car home, what an event that was. KUDOS to Michelin, they make a strong tire, zero damage from debris on the car, casing kept in tact 100%.

2) Didn't have a spare in the car (I risked it because the PS4S's were literally brand new one month prior). Didn't have anything, really, learned a lot on this trip to say the least.

3) And my last mistake, was NOT bringing my F&$#%@G camera charging cable! So didn't get much of any fun footage I had tried to capture along the way (sorry dudes)

Back in Ontario, now, and I am now surrounded by the East Coast track scene, and couldn't be happier in that regard Mosport is 2 hours away, Calabogie is an hour away, Shannonville is 1.5 hours away, Tremblant is 3 hours away, life is good

I have had some back and forward ideas about my final wheel/brake setup as it's been a bit of a struggle to sort out my wants/needs and have it applied to the car/parts that I ended up with. It was either A) buy the 355mm rotors (complete w/ hats), new brackets and hardware for an all in cost of about $3k CDN. Or B) re-ring the 380mm brakes as they're worn anyhow, and then swap from the ARC8 to the EC7 which is specifically designed to clear the 380 rotors, for an all-in cost of about $2500. It wasn't the money, it's what made sense long term. My rep at Brembo suggested, "if you are happy with the stopping power of the 380/355 setup you have, then you may want to keep it that way, and as long as the wheels are adequate. You'll never have this issue again, after you sort this out". He suggested the 355's would be a noticeable "downgrade" in terms of initial stopping power at high speed, about a 5-10% difference, according to him.

The wheel setup...

Always intended to run square, but am intrigued to step up form my prior 18x9 et42 to 18x9.5 et43 square. So what I did, is ordered a staggered setup to do the test fitting and necessary body mods over next cold season, to prep the car better for the 9.5" wheel up front. I don't mind running the car staggered, for this year, it's how I'll run the car on the street afterward. Running the 9" wheel up front on the staggered "DD" setup, allows me to run an effective alignment to reach ideal wear-in on the tires. The 9.5" wheel will require -3* min, and will probably be dialed in closer to -3.5* on track days anyways, so by doing things this way, I can drive to the track with the 9" wheel up front, then simply adjust the top hats, throw the bigger wheels on, and off to the "races". Here's the setup, for now:

Front - Apex EC-7 18x9 ET42 w/ Bridgestone RE-71R in 255/35 +10mm spacer (future, 18x9.5 et43 265/35)

Rear - Apex EC-7 18x9.5 ET43 w/ Bridgestone RE-71R in 265/35 no spacer

Hardware - Apex M14x1.25x75mm stud kit

Tires were all mounted up this afternoon and ready to be installed. Need to get home eat/change and I'll be back to raise the suspension and test fit tonight, prior to my final alignment tomorrow. If all is good, and fitment and ride height are on point, I will schedule my corner balance job for the first weekend in August when I'm next available. That will be the finishing bit to this build, for this year.

Next is more power, may ditch the JB4/Meth and just go BM3 St.2 OTS and get a custom dyno tune next year. Car pulls great as is, but now I have too much grip, I feel like I'm max'ing out a Miata all over again lol

PFA, more to come as I install everything and set it up:

Relaxing at the old homestead, bye bye OE 19's!!




New gear

255/35R18 RE71r on the 18x9 et42 wheel





265/35R18 RE71r on the 18x9.5 et43 wheel






I also have some cosmetic stuff in the works to complete the look I'm after.

- Will be debadging the rear "m235i" logo
- Will be removing the factory installed "MP side decals"

- Installing the "Rhys Herd" diffuser, went with the "OE Matte" look for the entire piece. My OEM MP unit was painted, so there should be a nice clean contrast out back, once installed (ETA 2 weeks or so).



Threw on an iND painted door lock cover, and yellow start/stop (becuz "racekar yellow" brakes lol). It's actually nice having a colour inside the cabin. The all black/grey carbon gets a bit bland over time, this is nice on the eyes. The key cover is greasy, my bad..




A timeless BMW front end *heart*



More updates to follow, pretty excited where the car is at. I had some seat time in an M2C on track a few weeks ago at MFest, and let me just say, that it was a bit underwhelming coming from my car. Wouldn't trade up to it, personally. IMO, it's not that much further ahead than the standard N55 M2, except for the top end engine power, and stopping power, which was pretty damn good on factory pads if I must say. If something ever happened where I had to replace this car, it'd be a base stripper M2 N55 6MT and it'd get the same things I did to this car (CS 3-way, BBK's, Bushings, Rcomps). You'd have a monster for less than an MSRP M2c. The detuned S55 worked well, but didn't have much emotion, to me, I don't know... didn't feel *right*. Maybe it was the paddle shifters, or because we're spoiled with the intoxicating sounds of the N55, who knows!! LOL
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      07-24-2019, 05:46 PM   #43
dradernh
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Back in Ontario, now, and I am now surrounded by the East Coast track scene, and couldn't be happier in that regard Mosport is 2 hours away, Calabogie is an hour away, Shannonville is 1.5 hours away, Tremblant is 3 hours away, life is good
And the Glen is just 4 hours away, with Lime Rock being only another 1.5 hours further - you've chosen well!

IMO, the power and weight of our cars makes them better-suited to the more-open, high-speed tracks like Mosport, Tremblant, and the Glen. In the northeast quadrant of North America, that trio is the trifecta for let's-just-get-it-on.
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2017 M240i: 23.6K, MT, Sunroof Delete, 3,432#, EB, Leather, Driving Assistance Package, Heated Front Seats | Sold: E12 530i, E24 M635CSi, E39 520i, E30 325is, E36 M3 (2)
TC Kline Coilovers; H&R Front Bar; Wavetrac; Al Subframe Bushings; 18X9/9½ ARC-8s; 255/35-18 PS4S (4); Dinan Elite V2 & CAI; MPerf Orange BBK; Schroth Quick Fit Pro;
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      07-25-2019, 09:04 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by dradernh View Post
And the Glen is just 4 hours away, with Lime Rock being only another 1.5 hours further - you've chosen well!

IMO, the power and weight of our cars makes them better-suited to the more-open, high-speed tracks like Mosport, Tremblant, and the Glen. In the northeast quadrant of North America, that trio is the trifecta for let's-just-get-it-on.
Oh yea buddy, you know it! Limerock is so much fun! One of my first experiences was on that track, in a Miata. Can't wait to start planning some road trips

The Glen is a beast, reminds me of Mosport in a way.. I really want to run Road America, that's one I haven't. And Sebring/COTA/Lauga Seca would be further down the list..
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