[Mywifes335]

Originally Posted by pikcachu

Wonder how is the strut going to hold overtime if you start getting debris into the strut shaft without the cover

Should (hopefully) hold up ok. Had other cars that didn't even have these dust covers. Plus, it's not completely removed.

[Mywifes335]

Anyone running Apex staggered 18s?

Wondering if you've run into similar fitment issues.

[ocN55]

Originally Posted by M235Montreal

i'm Loving these real life expertise by you guys, you were my benchmark till CloudIX came up with this setup. it looks more efficient since he's wearing MPSS which have wider and fatter footprint and are superior to your tires, plus he did no cutting nowhere and most importantly he has 235 up front, that is huge in preventing under steer .

I just wonder why nobody did this since the M235i is out since 3 years now , all Vendors say our max setup is 255 R and 225 Front !

Mywifes335 is running the same width and compound of tire...

Originally Posted by Mywifes335

Anyone running Apex staggered 18s?

Wondering if you've run into similar fitment issues.

I am. I'm cutting it really close both front and rear, but I didn't need any trimming. 265 and 235 MPSS

[Mywifes335]

Same setup? Where you located? Would love to check your APEC setup out.

[ocN55]

Originally Posted by Mywifes335

Same setup? Where you located? Would love to check your APEC setup out.

I'm located in Los Angeles.

18x8.5 ET45 with 5mm spacer
18x9.5 ET62 with 15mm spacer

235/40 and 265/35 MPSS

[Mywifes335]

Oh snap LA. Ok my car won't be out there anytime soon.

I think I'll try the 5mm and 10mm spacers in the front and rear, respectively.

Did you get a wheel stud conversion or get longer wheel bolts?

Thanks!

[M235Montreal]

[QUOTE=ocN55;19379723]Mywifes335 is running the same width and compound of tire...


indeed my bad i confused him with another member on Hankook , M-tavo his car looks sick as well

[Mywifes335]

All good. I'm running PSS all around indeed.

Had Hankooks on my wife's 335....not happy with them in wet or on track.

PSS has been one of the best summer tires I've had since PS2. Falken Azenis Sports (discontinued) were great too.

[ocN55]

Originally Posted by Mywifes335

Oh snap LA. Ok my car won't be out there anytime soon.

I think I'll try the 5mm and 10mm spacers in the front and rear, respectively.

Did you get a wheel stud conversion or get longer wheel bolts?

Thanks!

10mm spacers generally are a bad idea, I would get the 12mm.

I got longer bolts

[Mywifes335]

Originally Posted by ocN55

10mm spacers generally are a bad idea, I would get the 12mm.

I got longer bolts

I'll check them out. Why are 10mm spacers a bad idea? Did you get H&R hardware? And when you put the spacer on did you have to do anything to make them fit properly?

Sorry for all the questions. Your experience will be my wisdom...to not make mistakes in buying the wrong stuff.

Thank you!

[pikcachu]

Originally Posted by Mywifes335

I'll check them out. Why are 10mm spacers a bad idea? Did you get H&R hardware? And when you put the spacer on did you have to do anything to make them fit properly?

Sorry for all the questions. Your experience will be my wisdom...to not make mistakes in buying the wrong stuff.

Thank you!

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-te...l-spacers.aspx

The 10mm Spacer Dilemma
10mm wheel spacers are one of the most common spacer sizes out there. However, what a lot of people don't realize is that a 10mm size is not a true fitment on any BMW. It's considered a "tuner" fitment, meaning some extra thought is usually required to correctly install them. Only with the right combination of parts will a 10mm spacer fit without a vibration or other fitment issues.

Factory Hub Lips Are Greater Than 10mm
The depth of the lip on the car where the spacer will rest will vary. The available lip space may be 11mm and a 10mm spacer with its own hubcentric lip cannot physically fit. The spacer will bottom out on the lip instead of on the brake hat, leaving a gap between the spacer and the rotor hat. The biggest reason for this is the thickness of the rotor hat. The thickness varies by manufacturer and design. A thinner hat (such as used with aluminum Euro Floating rotors) will leave more lip protruding and make the problem worse. Most spacer manufacturers add an extra chamfer, or shoulder, to push the hubcentric lip further out. The extra chamfer clears any extra part of the stock lip. The other way to get the spacer to fit is to shave the stock lip with a metal file. While not the most elegant solution, it works.

[M235Montreal]

Originally Posted by ocN55

10mm spacers generally are a bad idea, I would get the 12mm.

I got longer bolts

I think i stumbled on u on Instagram and is it u the azn guy on youtube with a 370z Guy testing your Car ?

[ocN55]

Originally Posted by M235Montreal

I think i stumbled on u on Instagram and is it u the azn guy on youtube with a 370z Guy testing your Car ?

yup

[M235Montreal]

Originally Posted by ocN55

yup

is it me or you're contemplating moving up to 19'' now , me i love your setup already man !

[ocN55]

Originally Posted by M235Montreal

is it me or you're contemplating moving up to 19'' now , me i love your setup already man !

Nah not anytime soon, I've wanted the ARC 8 for a very long time.

Thanks for your kind words

[Mywifes335]

Originally Posted by pikcachu

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-te...l-spacers.aspx

The 10mm Spacer Dilemma
10mm wheel spacers are one of the most common spacer sizes out there. However, what a lot of people don't realize is that a 10mm size is not a true fitment on any BMW. It's considered a "tuner" fitment, meaning some extra thought is usually required to correctly install them. Only with the right combination of parts will a 10mm spacer fit without a vibration or other fitment issues.

Factory Hub Lips Are Greater Than 10mm
The depth of the lip on the car where the spacer will rest will vary. The available lip space may be 11mm and a 10mm spacer with its own hubcentric lip cannot physically fit. The spacer will bottom out on the lip instead of on the brake hat, leaving a gap between the spacer and the rotor hat. The biggest reason for this is the thickness of the rotor hat. The thickness varies by manufacturer and design. A thinner hat (such as used with aluminum Euro Floating rotors) will leave more lip protruding and make the problem worse. Most spacer manufacturers add an extra chamfer, or shoulder, to push the hubcentric lip further out. The extra chamfer clears any extra part of the stock lip. The other way to get the spacer to fit is to shave the stock lip with a metal file. While not the most elegant solution, it works.

Thanks! So 12mm is safer. 5mm won't have the same fitment issue because it's so thin?

[pikcachu]

Originally Posted by Mywifes335

Thanks! So 12mm is safer. 5mm won't have the same fitment issue because it's so thin?

yeah....

Look at the Misc notes on that same link

-All BMWs use hubcentric wheels. When mounted to the car, the wheel rests on a lip instead of the wheel bolts or studs. The lip is usually 9-10.5mm in depth. The lip contributes to the strength of the wheel and the wheel cannot safely be used without a lip. The wheel bolts are not strong enough to support the weight and loads generated through the wheel.

Any spacer smaller than 10mm will not have a hubcentric lip on it. It's physically impossible since the spacer slides over the existing lip but is not thick enough to take the lip's place (the standard lip still protrudes through the spacer). With a 9mm lip, a 5mm spacer will only leave 4mm of stock lip left for the wheel to rest on. This is important to keep in mind when considering your wheel/spacer setup. A wheel with a beveled edge on the back will not adequately rest on the lip, resulting in a vibration because the wheel is not truly centered on the hub.

For most 5-lug BMW applications, Turner Motorsport offers a hub-extender. This takes the place of your hub's dust cap and adds an extra 10mm of lip for the wheel to rest on. Using the example above, instead of 4mm left over on the lip, you now have 14mm of lip to use. With the hub extenders, you can also change spacers around without fear of losing lip space - it can be used with a 3mm, 5mm, 8mm, or 10mm spacer.

Spacers with their own integrated hubcentric lip are: 10mm*, 12mm, 12.5mm, 15mm, 18mm, 20mm, 25mm, and 30mm.
* -- Note that H&R and Turner Motorsport each make a 10mm hubcentric spacer but due to interferences between the spacer and lip, it's best to leave this to specialized applications. The lip on the car must be shaved down so the 10mm spacer will fit flush on the rotor hat.

[Mywifes335]

Hmmm...so 12mm spacer OK. 5mm spacer needs the hub extender.

Yeah the hubcentricity of BMW rolling stock designs got me in trouble with Enkeis before...had to install these rings.

[2Banger]

More Pics Op!!!

[rwalker]

Originally Posted by ocN55

I'm located in Los Angeles.

18x8.5 ET45 with 5mm spacer
18x9.5 ET62 with 15mm spacer

235/40 and 265/35 MPSS

Have you posted pics of your ride?

[ocN55]

Originally Posted by rwalker

Have you posted pics of your ride?

Yup check them out here. http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1215899



Side note, I tried to reach out to you on facebook regarding tuning advice.

[Cloud IX]

Originally Posted by ocN55

Mywifes335 is running the same width and compound of tire...



I am. I'm cutting it really close both front and rear, but I didn't need any trimming. 265 and 235 MPSS

He's probably talking about 19s not 18s.

Was pretty busy today running around and still no rubbing or any issues. Will snap some tomorrow.