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2Addicts | BMW 2-Series forum Technical Topics Suspension | Chassis | Brakes Front wheel hub + bearings for M235xi (F22)

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      06-11-2019, 09:48 PM   #1
DrivingPassion
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Front wheel hub + bearings for M235xi (F22)

I searched for this and FCPEuro has 2 : one from F.A.G.

Is the F.A.G. brand OK?

Do you guys recommend something else that is better priced and it's just as good as OEM version?
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Last edited by DrivingPassion; 06-22-2019 at 08:18 AM.. Reason: Make it clearer
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      06-11-2019, 10:17 PM   #2
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Is this the correct instructions?

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...uckle/KHOmg9S8
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Last edited by DrivingPassion; 06-11-2019 at 11:14 PM..
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      06-12-2019, 05:07 PM   #3
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F.A.G is quality, no issue there. Instructions look fair, less to do if RWD..
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      06-12-2019, 09:33 PM   #4
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f.a.g. is a OEM to some German brands including BMW. quality stuff.
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      06-12-2019, 09:44 PM   #5
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Sounds good. Thanks!
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      06-21-2019, 07:00 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrivingPassion View Post
Man, why does everything always look so easy on paper but so difficult in real life?

The center bolt in the center of the hub is easy to remove following the steps. You need someone to step on the brakes while you use a breaker bar to unscrew it.

But .... but ... but ... the 4 bolts that holds the hub assembly to the drive axle is truly a pain to remove --- the axle is in the way --- the reason being this: all 4 bolts are screwed in from the inside out.

TiS instructions are not realistic. I think we need to remove the rest of the suspension pieces to have enough room to work out those damn 4 bolts.

I got one unscrewed but it cannot come out because it's blocked by the strut bellow. I don't want to accidentally tear the damn bellow.

Any suggestions and help would be great.
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Last edited by DrivingPassion; 06-21-2019 at 07:25 PM..
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      06-21-2019, 10:51 PM   #7
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I have change the wheel bearings in e90's before , alittle different, but the experience has taught me it's better to remove or move over all components connected to the knuckle before using your impact wrench tools, also use penetrating oil and leave it overnight so they can soak in. Or if the oil doesn't work, remove the oil completely, then use a torch to heat the knuckle and bolt and re-try. The last option is to buy the knuckle and bearing new and throw away the rust together items.
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      06-21-2019, 11:00 PM   #8
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Thanks. Those are nice tools.

I just realized that the bit I was using to unscrew the bolts were hex instead of the correct ones, which are Torx.

Should have seen it!
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      06-22-2019, 10:15 AM   #9
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Worst case, I guess I'd have to remove the entire Swivel Bearing + hub assembly and just chuck it.
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      06-22-2019, 05:50 PM   #10
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Got the 4 torx bolts out.
T55 Torx Internal Bit is the savior.

- For starters, use breaker wrench to get it loosened.
- Switch to shorter wrench for easier movement
- along the way, you may need longer or shorter bit because the bellows from the axle is partially blocking as the bolt sticks out more and more as you back it out
- and the control arm is also in the way.

NOTE: For F22's, u do not need to remove the rest of the suspension pieces.
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      06-22-2019, 09:04 PM   #11
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Completed the project and I do not think I will replace the right side front Hub Assembly + Bearing because the soft metallic ring sound is still there when I coast after the left side hub assembly was replaced.
I think it's the brake pad touching the rotor and that is perfectly fine. This sound has been there since I got the car and the dealer cannot identify it.

Re-assembled everything back in reverse order. Tested it from 40 MPH to 5MPH, for about 10 times and it's grabbing very well.

Time to take the car in for brake flush + alignment.
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Last edited by DrivingPassion; 06-23-2019 at 08:10 AM..
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      07-15-2019, 07:33 PM   #12
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What are the signs that the wheel bearing/hub is going bad? I have heard the tire has some free play or movement when you shake with the wheel suspended. Also heard that there is a noise that increases with speed.
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      07-15-2019, 08:47 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dspeed23 View Post
What are the signs that the wheel bearing/hub is going bad? I have heard the tire has some free play or movement when you shake with the wheel suspended. Also heard that there is a noise that increases with speed.
I don't know because I just proved that the soft metallic humming was not related to the bearing.

Some people said that soft metallic humming may be coming from the brake pad barely touching the rotor.

I still have no true 100% answer to my question.
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      07-21-2019, 10:24 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrivingPassion View Post
Man, why does everything always look so easy on paper but so difficult in real life?

The center bolt in the center of the hub is easy to remove following the steps. You need someone to step on the brakes while you use a breaker bar to unscrew it.

But .... but ... but ... the 4 bolts that holds the hub assembly to the drive axle is truly a pain to remove --- the axle is in the way --- the reason being this: all 4 bolts are screwed in from the inside out.

TiS instructions are not realistic. I think we need to remove the rest of the suspension pieces to have enough room to work out those damn 4 bolts.

I got one unscrewed but it cannot come out because it's blocked by the strut bellow. I don't want to accidentally tear the damn bellow.

Any suggestions and help would be great.
What did you use to remove the center bolt on the hub???
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      07-21-2019, 11:36 AM   #15
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Just a regular breaker bar hooked up with a 1/2" drive Torx bit.
But, I forgot what size.

See attached.

Also, the part for the center torx bolt is here.. Look for #12 in the picture.
That should help you to find the right size for the Torx bit.

WARNING:
Use the correct Torx bit or you will mess up the bolt and then it is a PIA to fix it.

Recommendations:
If you are planning to do stuffs on your Bimmer, go to HarborFreight and get a set of metric Torx bit. You will use them.
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      07-21-2019, 02:52 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrivingPassion View Post
Just a regular breaker bar hooked up with a 1/2" drive Torx bit.
But, I forgot what size.

See attached.

Also, the part for the center torx bolt is here.. Look for #12 in the picture.
That should help you to find the right size for the Torx bit.

WARNING:
Use the correct Torx bit or you will mess up the bolt and then it is a PIA to fix it.

Recommendations:
If you are planning to do stuffs on your Bimmer, go to HarborFreight and get a set of metric Torx bit. You will use them.
Looks like a size T60 Torx bit.

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      07-21-2019, 06:16 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dradernh View Post
Looks like a size T60 Torx bit.

How in Dear Gods name did you get to the 4 bolts that hold the wheel hub w/o disassembling any of the other suspension components? Thanks...
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      07-21-2019, 06:21 PM   #18
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Did you replace the center bolt w/ new one and did you use lock-tight or anti-seize when replacing any of the bolts removed?
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