[zipphreak]

I'm looking for the best 8" aftermarket midbass (not subwoofer) options for the underseat location.. I've searched around and found a couple subwoofer options, earthquake sxs8 being the most popular. But i have a dedicated 12" trunk sub, really look to fill-out the midpass.

[matt@bavsound]

Have you taken a look at our GhostSubs for your car? I know you specifically want a midbass, but that will be determined more by the crossovers in the car than the driver itself since the underseat woofers are small and shallow. The response is plenty quick enough to be used as fill between your sub and door speakers.

Another option I've used and liked is the Gladdens.

Let me know if you have any questions! Midbass is so frequently overlooked, and so important...

[zipphreak]

Yah i have but i believe i'm looking for 4ohm for the HK system (assuming i would keep the HK amp), I want to drive more power though so i might look for a 2ch amp. The ones on your site are showing 2ohm. Plus the stock HK DSP crosses over " i read" around 200hz. I would need to replace the factory HK amp in order to setup a low pass around 500hz to get the extension.

Your drivers are also subwoofers, and im looking specifically for designed midwoofers.

[Viffermike]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

Yah i have but i believe i'm looking for 4ohm for the HK system (assuming i would keep the HK amp), I want to drive more power though so i might look for a 2ch amp. The ones on your site are showing 2ohm. Plus the stock HK DSP crosses over " i read" around 200hz. I would need to replace the factory HK amp in order to setup a low pass around 500hz to get the extension.

Your drivers are also subwoofers, and im looking specifically for designed midwoofers.

Yep. Way too many audio plebes mistake midbass for bass. Part of the problem is that there is no standardization for what "sub-bass", "bass", "midbass", "low-mids", etc actually are within the frequency spectrum -- and it differs from discipline to discipline. For instance:

Within the pro sound reproduction industry, generally:
Sub-bass = anything below 65 Hz
Bass = 65-125 Hz
Mid-bass = 125-250 Hz
Low-mids = 250-500 Hz
Mids = 500-800 Hz
(Note: Most of these represent full octaves. For reference: the fundamental frequency on the low "E" string on a bass guitar is 41 Hz)

Within the consumer mobile audio industry:
Sub-bass = anything below 80 Hz
Bass = 80-175 Hz
Mid-bass = 175-350 Hz
Mids = 350-750 Hz

This is part of the reason consumer speaker manufacturers can get away with calling what is actually a bass or mid-bass driver a sub. The definition is not set, and if that speaker can reproduce below 80 Hz without a massive SPL dropoff -- even if that speaker's optimal reproduction range is actually bass or midbass -- it can get away with being called a sub.

Now here's the thing: the OEM 'subs' are NOT subs. They are optimal bass drivers that can reproduce sub-bass frequencies in short bursts and with high distortion because they are underpowered. What the OP is looking for are mid-woofers, which optimally reproduce mid-bass frequencies but can extend lower and higher if allowed by the DSP and the electronics (i.e., filters, etc.). In a mobile environment, these are the best low-frequency drivers to use in almost any multi-speaker application for two reasons:
1). Most music -- even music with heavy sub-bass that lives around the low-E fundamental that I mentioned earlier, such as some forms of metal and orchestral music -- is recorded to emphasize the octave above the fundamental as the fundamental. In the case of low E, that would be 80 Hz, which a good mid-woofer can reach easily.
2). Mid-bass drivers require far less power to operate efficiently then bass or sub-bass drivers.

(And for the record: That low pulse beat associated with a lot of hip hop and electronic music? It's usually not a deep sub-bass frequency. They vary depending on the composition, but tonally they average around 75 Hz)

[zipphreak]

Haha nice write-up what do you do for work?!

[Viffermike]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

Haha nice write-up what do you do for work?!

I'm in advertising these days. In a former life I was a pro music critic, and I've played bass and guitar in various bands for many years. Audiophilia is a lifelong ancillary hobby to my music interests.

[zipphreak]

anyone have any suggestions, mb quarts, gladden, jenhert?

[Viffermike]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

anyone have any suggestions, mb quarts, gladden, jenhert?

The Jehnert drop-ins available for the 2 Series seem to be pretty good; I remember at least a couple of forum members installing them and being happy with them. I would avoid MB Quart mobile audio; the research I've done on it suggests that the mobile product is nowhere near up to snuff with the home stuff.

I would research Dayton Audio for a potential solution. I nearly installed Dayton 6" midbass drivers in a 370z I had; they're good, cost-effective DIY mobile speakers that not a lot are aware of. (I ended up leaving the audio alone in the 370z. Only had it for about 19 months.)

[Gabrola]

I second the Jehnert suggestion. I have them in my car and they are pretty darn good.

[zipphreak]

Do you have the HK or regular high system ? Do they fit with those included acrylic rings without any additional spacers? Are they 4ohm? The website seems to say 6ohm under the specs, but that's pretty bizarre?

http://www.jehnert.de/en/shop/speake...t-housing-bmw/

Edit:

Found the specs

[Gabrola]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

Do you have the HK or regular high system ? Do they fit with those included acrylic rings without any additional spacers? Are they 4ohm? The website seems to say 6ohm under the specs, but that's pretty bizarre?

http://www.jehnert.de/en/shop/speake...t-housing-bmw/

Edit:

Found the specs
Attachment 1543032

I used to have a stereo system without an amp - not something you have in the US - and replaced it with a full package from MusicarNW. The underseats came already prepped in their enclosures so I don't have an exact idea. It seems that there are no spacers needed, but mine have some kind of foam, I'm guessing for vibration damping? Here's a pic though if that helps.

[zipphreak]

Hi guys i got quoted $445 USD for a pair of the Jehnert XE200R's.. There was only one US distributor listed on their site.. Seems pretty high, thought VAT is listed on their site as 19%.

[Viffermike]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

Hi guys i got quoted $445 USD for a pair of the Jehnert XE200R's.. There was only one US distributor listed on their site.. Seems pretty high, thought VAT is listed on their site as 19%.

I'd seriously find an outlet in the EU (the U.K., Germany, etc.) to buy the Jehnerts. The dollar is stronger than it's been in many years, and VAT is not charged for outside-EU sales. Even with shipping, they're likely to be significantly cheaper there than here.

[zipphreak]

Ohh wow so 19% VAT tax is only when they sell goods within the EU? That's a pretty ridiculous goods tax.

I'll contact a few other distributors and see what they say.

[Viffermike]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

Ohh wow so 19% VAT tax is only when they sell goods within the EU? That's a pretty ridiculous goods tax.

I'll contact a few other distributors and see what they say.

Yep. It's illegal for EU retailers to charge VAT to customers outside the EU.

Note whether or not a retailer includes VAT in a price. If it does, lop off that 19%; that's about all you'll pay. Also, definitely gravitate toward a retailer that sells internationally regularly, many will point that out on its website (particularly to U.S. customers now since the dollar's strong). If a retailer tries to charge it, politely ask them not to include it. If they give you any sort of hard time about it, buy somewhere else.

[Gabrola]

Originally Posted by Viffermike

Yep. It's illegal for EU retailers to charge VAT to customers outside the EU.

Note whether or not a retailer includes VAT in a price. If it does, lop off that 19%; that's about all you'll pay. Also, definitely gravitate toward a retailer that sells internationally regularly, many will point that out on its website (particularly to U.S. customers now since the dollar's strong). If a retailer tries to charge it, politely ask them not to include it. If they give you any sort of hard time about it, buy somewhere else.

I've actually never come across any EU based web-shop that does charge the VAT. I believe most, if not all, web-shops will automatically void the VAT when you choose a non-EU shipping address.
This is also why EU cars are actually cheaper in the US than the EU itself. Something which I find quite funny

[Viffermike]

Originally Posted by Gabrola

Most, if not all, web-shops will automatically void the VAT when you choose a non-EU shipping address.

Yep: That's typically my experience as well, though I've run into a few non-auto-related sites (bass guitars, motorcycles, materials fabricators, fabricators, antiquities) that listed prices including VAT because their international sales volume is relatively small. In those cases, a phone call or email is typically the way to get around it.

[Migz71]

Sorry to bump this thread guys but I am after some advice! Right I have an amplifier with only hpf on it for my underseat subwoofers and want to crossover the highs at 250hz or maybe a bit lower 200hz is there such a thing as resistor or capacitor that can do this in-line or maybe passive crossover or do I have to go down the active crossover route? Cheers