[thurston]

For the past year, when it's below around 16ºC and under light-moderate brake pressure, I am getting a ridiculously high pitched squeak coming from the front driver-side wheel (might be both front wheels).

Brakes are pretty clean and rust free from a glance but I haven't popped the wheels off yet. I've seen some other general "brake squeal" posts on different forums but there doesn't seem to be a definitive answer.

Just wanted to gather as much advice from others before I rent some bay time and dive into it so I could make sure I have any and all tools for what I might run into. I've seen some say it is a handbrake issue, others say that replacing pads and rotors solved it and some say that they just turn music up and deal with it haha. So if you have run into this issue and solved it, please let me know how.

Car has 40.000km and X-Drive.

Thanks for any help.
t

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by thurston

For the past year, when it's below around 16ºC and under light-moderate brake pressure, I am getting a ridiculously high pitched squeak coming from the front driver-side wheel (might be both front wheels).

Brakes are pretty clean and rust free from a glance but I haven't popped the wheels off yet. I've seen some other general "brake squeal" posts on different forums but there doesn't seem to be a definitive answer.

Just wanted to gather as much advice from others before I rent some bay time and dive into it so I could make sure I have any and all tools for what I might run into. I've seen some say it is a handbrake issue, others say that replacing pads and rotors solved it and some say that they just turn music up and deal with it haha. So if you have run into this issue and solved it, please let me know how.

Car has 40.000km and X-Drive.

Thanks for any help.
t

Probably the best to inspect them first to see what you are up against before anyone here gives you any pointers.

[TYC]

Couple suggestions I have for you.

The first, swap the inner and outer brake pads on both rotors upfront, as well as in the rear.

Re bleed / service the calipers and sliders with high quality lube.

Second, redo the “bed in” procedure as per the manufacturers instructions for the particular brake pads that you are using.
Not all pads bed the same way.

third, Less confident suggestion would be to look at the various Anti squeal brake pad grease options on the market.
Some people have great results, others claim it’s a total myth.

Personally I’ve never tried the stuff, I have a separate pad for the street and the track. And the pad that I use for the track is absolutely obnoxious and completely intolerable for the street.
Without any exaggeration, If I run my race pad on the street. When I come to a stop. I sound like a gigantic broken greyhound bus. But they are amazing on the track hahaha

My street pad. Makes no noise at all.
I have used
- oem
- ferodo racing dsc2500
- stop tech 309

[thurston]

Originally Posted by TYC

Couple suggestions I have for you.

The first, swap the inner and outer brake pads on both rotors upfront, as well as in the rear.

Re bleed / service the calipers and sliders with high quality lube.

Second, redo the "bed in" procedure as per the manufacturers instructions for the particular brake pads that you are using.
Not all pads bed the same way.

third, Less confident suggestion would be to look at the various Anti squeal brake pad grease options on the market.
Some people have great results, others claim it's a total myth.

Personally I've never tried the stuff, I have a separate pad for the street and the track. And the pad that I use for the track is absolutely obnoxious and completely intolerable for the street.
Without any exaggeration, If I run my race pad on the street. When I come to a stop. I sound like a gigantic broken greyhound bus. But they are amazing on the track hahaha

My street pad. Makes no noise at all.
I have used
- oem
- ferodo racing dsc2500
- stop tech 309

Wow. Thanks for all of the great info. Definitely will try this.

[overcoil]

as I recall beside definitely using backing paste - not too much - on the pads, is to also use steel wool and polish the locating pins on the brakes.

Also there is a theory not to use brake cleaner on the rotors or the pads. The brake cleaner tends to soak in and dry on and when the conditions are ripe the cleaner dust slurry liquifies and causes squeal.

If the rotors are thick, just slide in new pads use a good brake pad backing paste, and for the first few hundred miles don’t drive the brakes hard then have the brakes applied hard while sitting - meaning don’t have hot pads and rotors clamped tight while not moving.

[thurston]

Originally Posted by ScottSinger

as I recall beside definitely using backing paste - not too much - on the pads is to use steel wool and polish the locating pins on the brakes.

Also there is a theory not to use brake cleaner on the rotors or the pads. The brake cleaner tends to soak in and dry on and when the conditions are ripe the cleaner dust slurry liquifies and causes squeal.

If the rotors are thick, just slide in new pads use a good brake pad backing paste, and for the first few hundred miles don’t drive the brakes hard then have the brakes applied hard while sitting - meaning don’t have hot pads and rotors clamped tight while not moving.

Makes sense. Appreciate the advice!

[Maynard]

Before you turn a wrench, take it out and really bed in the brakes thoroughly and completely - at least 6-8 HARD (near-abs) stops from 60+ (?100kph?) down to about 5mph, then back up to speed; and drive around afterwards to let things cool before sitting at full stop with brakes holding the disc in one spot. If this makes it worse (unlikely), then most likely you are dealing with the dirty pins/sliders and the backing paste will help; it can't hurt, but may not be necessary to redo all that. If you get to taking things apart, really clean out the old cruddy paste from the calipers, especially where the pads slide (with a rag - you can wet it w/ brake cleaner if necc, but don't spray the stuff right into the caliper if you can help it).

[overcoil]

Originally Posted by Maynard

Before you turn a wrench, take it out and really bed in the brakes thoroughly and completely - at least 6-8 HARD (near-abs) stops from 60+ (?100kph?) down to about 5mph, then back up to speed; and drive around afterwards to let things cool before sitting at full stop with brakes holding the disc in one spot. If this makes it worse (unlikely), then most likely you are dealing with the dirty pins/sliders and the backing paste will help; it can't hurt, but may not be necessary to redo all that. If you get to taking things apart, really clean out the old cruddy paste from the calipers, especially where the pads slide (with a rag - you can wet it w/ brake cleaner if necc, but don't spray the stuff right into the caliper if you can help it).

I agree with the hard braking. Plus it's good for the ABS system.