05-31-2019, 07:02 AM | #1 |
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It has been difficult for me to find more detail on this as every time the center jack point is mentioned there is the same BMW diagram shown, but it fails to show that an undertray covers it. Last night I took off the undertray to see where it lines up with the jack point and it is perfectly in line with the hole marked in the pic below. Hopefully this can help some you skip messing with ramps and jack the car up first with a low profile jack. It is important to get this right as in between the next hole closer to the front of the car is the EPS motor and behind is the oil pan.
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05-31-2019, 08:41 AM | #2 |
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This is great info. I just had to look this up a few days ago, and found the same info in a Mikey video:
It really annoys me that it is a real pain to get this car up on jack stands with just a common floor jack. Most of us don't have lifts. If you use your jack on the lift points, there are very few good places on the undercarriage to place a jack stand. The rear has spots on the subframe mounting, but the front really has nothing. At least not without dropping a bunch of the covers. So, every time I need to get all four corners up it becomes a complicated dance of getting one corner up until you can get to the central front, and then hoping the car doesn't fall off as you tilt it back and forth. <sigh> Really wish there was a third lift point on the side to lift the car on and then place stands on the other two. |
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05-31-2019, 08:54 AM | #3 | |
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And yea, exposed frame rails like a normal car would be nice, I do not know why they insist on the jack pads. |
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05-31-2019, 08:36 PM | #4 |
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It's nice to know where this is, but how are you guys even reaching this far under the car with a typical floor jack?
I am using JackPoint jack stands. Expensive, but worth it as a garage investment. None of the issues you guys are having. I can simply jack the car up at each designated jack pad location, one corner at a time, and then lower each corner back down right on to each JackPoint jack stand.
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05-31-2019, 09:01 PM | #5 | |
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05-31-2019, 11:17 PM | #6 | |
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06-01-2019, 07:29 AM | #7 |
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Drive the front wheels up onto a couple of 2x8's. That will give more than enough clearance to fit a standard jack under the front.
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06-01-2019, 04:21 PM | #8 |
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My solution – on the wife's 2015 Mazda 3 2.5-liter MT – as shown via the link below:
On each side of the car, weld a 6"-long piece of 1"X1" steel stock at a point behind the pinch weld such that when used as a jack point both the front and rear tires are lifted at the same rate. I haven't done this yet on my 2 Series, but it is going to be done. For me, having a central jacking point on the side is too convenient to go without. https://mazda3revolution.com/forums/...ml#post1796402
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06-03-2019, 08:14 PM | #9 | |
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pikcachu When you say 'jack up the rear and put the stands in the front', are you saying that you jack the rear center high enough to put in all the jackstands at once? Or do you mean that you use the rear side jack point and put the stand in the front side jack point? If the latter, you are still stuck with finding a good point to put a jack stand in the rear subframe area because you're already using the side jack point. I do that sometimes, but it's a bit precarious getting the second side up enough to place the second front jack stand. dradernh That's a cool idea, but you have to track down a shop skilled enough to do that, and it would mean cutting up the undertrays on the car. Be nice if it came that way from the factory. All, so, what kind of jack stands is everyone using on the jack points? Standard v-top stands and just putting one ear in the jack point? Or are you rigging a block on a cheap jackstand? If so, I'd love to see pictures of what you've done. ReverseLogic makes some really cool replacement posts with swivel blocks for the Esco stands, but that's getting to be really pricey too. |
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06-03-2019, 09:14 PM | #10 | |
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If you want to put front and rear on a stand what I've seen is that you can use a 2 by 4 long enough from rear jack point to front jack point and you jack the front a few inches to the left or right of the point and put the jack stand... then do the same for the rear something like this... blue is the jack and red are the stands... brown is the wood bar.... disregard the black text Last edited by pikcachu; 06-03-2019 at 09:22 PM.. |
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06-04-2019, 11:05 AM | #11 | |
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2) The job is pretty simple, and race shops can fabricate anything you want. A good one will do it without making a mess of the job. 3a) Esco Stands (the new shorter version; the car practically tipped-over when lifting it for the original, higher stands (I now have 8 Escos! )) 3b) ReverseLogic's Really Cool Replacement Posts with Swivel Blocks
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06-05-2019, 06:57 AM | #12 |
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the front jack point is always the same, the middle of the front subframe. the shrouds do make it difficult to locate sometimes but you can check from the sides and make sure it lines up. almost every BMW I've owned can be jacked in the rear via the diff (except the E46). just make sure it's not on the diff cover and solely on the solid diff body.
I have a couple of those decent Pittsburgh Jack's and stands. I use rubber jack pads inside the cups. one is a low profile one that gets under every car at the above listed jack points fine except the e30 (it's on h&r springs). just gotta drive up on some wood ramp extensions I made. anyway, get the jack under the front subframe, get her up, then I put the stands on the side jack points (sometimes inside on the frame rails on some cars). then I proceed to the rear and jack the diff, then put the other set of stands on side rear jack points. when doing the rear, the car pivots on the front stands, almost likes it's a fulcrum. as long as the jack rolls along and the front stands remain fully seated on the ground, you'll be good to go. give the car some pushes from the side to make sure it doesn't move then you are all set.
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12-09-2019, 11:44 AM | #14 |
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Sorry to bring this post back from the dead.
I'm wondering if anyone has ever had the floor jack slip at the front jack point? I've got the normal esco jack stands (not the shortys) so you've got to jack up the car pretty high to be able to fit the esco jack stands even at their minimum height of 13". I initially got the car up on the stands at the front ok, though it was a little odd having to jack it up so high. When it came time to lower the car, in raising the car my floor jack slipped forward on the undertray engine cover and put a nice 2-3" hole in the cover. The car didn't come to the floor as I hadn't yet removed the jack stands and landed on them but I'm wondering if anyone else has had this happen? This has never happened to me with previous vehicles and I'm not sure if it slipped because of the plastic undertray engine cover, because the esco jack stands are too tall, because the subframe jacking point is narrow or a combination of factors. I'm not really sure what is in front of the jack point (towards the front of the car) or if I did more damage other than the hole in the undertray engine cover. The undertray cover is about $200 which I'm not excited about. It's odd to me that the jack point is hidden under cover. I don't want this to happen again. I don't want to have to buy the shorter esco stands as they're also about $200+ for 4. I wish I had known about them before ordering the normal ones. |
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12-09-2019, 01:43 PM | #15 | |
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I have probably done this half a dozen times or more without any issue, I use a foam pad on my jack to avoid damaging the undertray while lifting, but slippage has never occurred. Maybe it wasn't centered perfectly and the height of the jack made it slide at an angle? I use harbor freight jack stands cut down to fit inside the jack points, which are quite short so I dont find myself jacking the car up very high. |
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12-09-2019, 02:59 PM | #16 | |
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12-09-2019, 04:33 PM | #17 | ||
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12-09-2019, 05:09 PM | #18 | ||
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12-10-2019, 10:24 PM | #19 | |
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05-06-2020, 11:03 AM | #20 | |
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05-06-2020, 02:09 PM | #21 | |
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A hockey puck is as good as the rubber pad supplied with many jacks, but gives more clearance around the metal of the jack cup, totally safe as long as the jack has a cup and you are jacking on a flat surface (such as the centre front jacking point on most BMWs or centre rear point near the differential. I use a custom aluminium insert for the standard side jacking points on the BMW. The density of the rubber in a hockey puck is higher than the jack pads on my 4-pad hydraulic lift. I agree wooden blocks are not nearly as safe with a floor jack, as they can slide on the jacking point when the floor jack rolls on the floor, whereas a hockey puck won’t. Last edited by aerobod; 05-06-2020 at 02:18 PM.. |
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06-02-2020, 11:28 AM | #22 | |
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