[Dannyxz]

As the title says,

Is there any concrete evidence on when to shift?

Daily driving I feel like the car is happiest at 2.5-3k.

What do you guys think?

[overcoil]

You can use the real time mpg reading on the display to get an idea of shift points for economy.
As u go up in gears you can usually drop 500rpm for each successive shift point.

[amw896]

3100-3300 for 1-3 and 2500-3000 for 4-6.

[XutvJet]

If you're talking for max MPGs, it seems odd, but getting up to cruise speed moderately rather than lumbering along Prius-hyper-miling style will result in better mpgs. Lumbering along and shifting low (i.e. below 2,500rpms) creates a lot of load. Load equals lots of fuel as you're making the motor work harder and longer rather than using the torque multiplication of the lower gears to assist in reducing load. It's a time vs work thing.

While cruising, you should be in a gear that requires minimal throttle input. When going up a hill, you should be in a gear that reduces load rather than just remaining in gear and pushing the throttle further.

When off throttle or going down a hill, you need to stay in gear as the injectors shut off, assuming you're keeping the rpms above idle speed. If you coast in neutral, then you'll be at idle speed and consuming fuel.

For max acceleration and assuming no tune (either stock or with a catted downpipe only), the calculated ideal shift points from the M235 (based on numerous Dynojet plots I've reviewed) are 6800-7000rpm for the 1-2 shift and 7000rpms for the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts. If you've got a tune and assuming the powerband has the same shape as stock (i.e., peak power at 6000-6200rpms and not nose diving until 6500-6600pms), then the same ideal shift points apply. And yes, even though power peaks at 6000-6200rpms DOES NOT mean that's where you shift for max acceleration. There's a lot more to it than that and don't let anyone tell your otherwise. The 6MT has long gears and not a ton of torque multiplication. You need to wind the gears out. The 8AT isn't as reliant on ideal shift points as it has a ton more torque multiplication through the extra gears and torque converter (on launch plus the ability to build boost at launch).

[Dannyxz]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

If you're talking for max MPGs, it seems odd, but getting up to cruise speed moderately rather than lumbering along Prius-hyper-miling style will result in better mpgs. Lumbering along and shifting low (i.e. below 2,500rpms) creates a lot of load. Load equals lots of fuel as you're making the motor work harder and longer rather than using the torque multiplication of the lower gears to assist in reducing load. It's a time vs work thing.

While cruising, you should be in a gear that requires minimal throttle input. When going up a hill, you should be in a gear that reduces load rather than just remaining in gear and pushing the throttle further.

When off throttle or going down a hill, you need to stay in gear as the injectors shut off, assuming you're keeping the rpms above idle speed. If you coast in neutral, then you'll be at idle speed and consuming fuel.

For max acceleration and assuming no tune (either stock or with a catted downpipe only), the calculated ideal shift points from the M235 (based on numerous Dynojet plots I've reviewed) are 6800-7000rpm for the 1-2 shift and 7000rpms for the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts. If you've got a tune and assuming the powerband has the same shape as stock (i.e., peak power at 6000-6200rpms and not nose diving until 6500-6600pms), then the same ideal shift points apply. And yes, even though power peaks at 6000-6200rpms DOES NOT mean that's where you shift for max acceleration. There's a lot more to it than that and don't let anyone tell your otherwise. The 6MT has long gears and not a ton of torque multiplication. You need to wind the gears out. The 8AT isn't as reliant on ideal shift points as it has a ton more torque multiplication through the extra gears and torque converter (on launch plus the ability to build boost at launch).

Thanks for this reply!

Also, how much should revs drop between shifts for normal driving? I notice my revs drop quite fast but then ramp up instantly as I fully disengage the clutch.

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by Dannyxz

Thanks for this reply!

Also, how much should revs drop between shifts for normal driving? I notice my revs drop quite fast but then ramp up instantly as I fully disengage the clutch.

It's a mechanical direct connection once the clutch is engaged so the rpms match engine speed. RPM is based on what gear you're in. If you shift out of 1st at 5,000rpms into 4th, the entry rpm once the clutch is released will be much lower than say selecting 2nd or 3rd. The key is not to bog the motor and put it under high load. That means you need to generally keep the rpms above 2,000-2,500 depending on gear, speed, and grade. During normal driving, if you're having to use more than 20-30% throttle to maintain speed, you're likely in too high a gear and need to shift down to the lower gear. If you're bogging the motor or putting it in high load, you can usually feel more vibration and the motor will rev slowly.

[overcoil]

Originally Posted by Dannyxz

Thanks for this reply!

Also, how much should revs drop between shifts for normal driving? I notice my revs drop quite fast but then ramp up instantly as I fully disengage the clutch.

A few things you should do while driving which kind of dial you in to your driving.

For third gear and fourth gear for example compare how many rpm the engine is rotating at the same speed in each gear. Then try fourth and fifth at a higher road speed and compare rpm's for the same speed.

On average you lose about 1000 rpm on each successive upshift as you accelerate and shift at similar rpm for each shift.

One thing that determines how many revs you lose and how quickly when you let of the gas as you enter neutral or if you were to just rev the engine in neutral and watch the rpm's cascade downward, is the weight of the flywheel (and diameter size)

[Dannyxz]

For smooth shifting, I’m trying to catch the rev drop at the right range so the car doesn’t jerk. So it’s fair to assume in-between shifts the revs should drop right around 1k before you fully disengage the clutch?