06-07-2019, 07:54 PM | #1 |
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Bootmod3? Boost leak? Please help me.
Hi everyone, this is my first time posting so please take it easy on me. Let me start from the beginning. Around six months ago I installed the bootmod3 stage one tune of my car. The car ran beautifully for about two months before my charge pipe blew. I then purchased a VRSF charge pipe and had my local shop in San Antonio install it. Once I got the car back I noticed that the car seem to exhibit some throttle lag as well as a overall power dip compared to how it felt pre cherge pipe explosion. I then began thinking about what could’ve gone wrong. I assumed that since the issue happened right after the charge pipe was installed that it must’ve been due to the charge pipe. I brought it back to the shop and they did a boost leak check a.k.a. smoke test and told me that there weren’t any leaks. They even took the time to reinstall the charge pipe just for good measure. I picked it up today and the issue had not resolved itself. I then began thinking of other things that could be causing the symptoms I described above. I thought hey maybe it’s the tune. I then opened up my boot mode app and saw that there was an update around New Year’s that fixed the issue I seem to be experiencing. It dealt with sluggish acceleration at lower p.m. Unfortunately I am already running in the most up-to-date version of the tune so this seems unlikely to be the issue. I talked to a few friends Of mine, one of them told me that maybe it’s my recirculation valve. Another is still adamant that there is a boost leak somewhere. What do you guys think could be the issue? I haven’t been able to do a wide open throttle Data log for the car but I was able to gather some city driving and I noticed that my actual boost was over shooting my Target boost nearly everywhere on the RPM range. I would appreciate any feedback you all can offer me thank you for taking the time to read this.
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06-07-2019, 08:51 PM | #2 |
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Would really need to see a log. How are your intake temps?
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16 M235 Cabrio - BM3, ER CP, Wagner DP & IC, Dinan Intake, MPE, Torqbyte CM5
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06-07-2019, 11:31 PM | #3 |
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This is just a log of some city driving. Sorry I don’t have a proper log.
http://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5ce1bcccc090c67dfdca5800 |
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06-08-2019, 01:15 AM | #4 |
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OK well I'm not an expert but I didn't see anything glaring. There was one point a good way through the log where it looked like you were on the throttle, and you were hitting close to the boost target of 13.7. Intake temps were ~116, which is getting pretty warm and this is certainly going to impact performance. Version 6.4 of the OTS maps were released 6-6, are you running the latest maps?
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06-08-2019, 09:19 AM | #5 | |
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06-08-2019, 08:05 PM | #6 |
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Just reflashed to 6.4 this morning and the car is driving much better. I’ll need more time to see if this completely resolved the issue. It’s a shame is 100+ Degrees outside here.
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06-10-2019, 11:35 AM | #7 | |
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And what about the O-rings ? Did they re-locate it to the new VRSF charge pipe and re-tightened the meth bung plug? |
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06-11-2019, 08:16 AM | #8 |
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I just wanted to add my 2 cents here and share my experience. Not sure on your mileage, but my '16 is at 43k. I've been running BM3 s2 for a few months. I upgraded my charge pipe as well right before flashing. Like you, I experienced driveability issues that were not present when I just had the JB4. I also have a catless downpipe, afe intake, and modded m2 exhaust(which were all present before flashing). I thought for sure I had a boost leak after installing charge pipe and flashing. Turns out I maybe had a combination of things going on. I will list some thoughts and issues I dealt with:
If you haven't already, make sure you switch your spark plugs out from stock. I did mine a few thousand miles before flash tune.. some say OEM are fine, others recommend one step colder plugs. I ended up using NGK97506 after reading a bit. Make sure they are gapped correctly ... also a bit of conflicting data on this. I started out with a gap around 0.018 and now have them set to 0.024 Make sure you check those o-rings on the charge pipe. Not so much the throttle body side, but the FMIC side. This was a PITA for me.. especially being xdrive. I switched this thing 3 times because it probably wasn't seated right. Make sure the lip of the o-ring can mate with the FMIC. If you have meth bungs on the charge pipe make shre they're tight and use some teflon or thread locker. They often come loose from the factory. Not sure which brand of charge pipe you have, but make sure the clamps are tight on where the sleeve would connect the 2 pieces (if it applies to you). If you're on stock ignition coils, at least one may be acting up. I only came across this as I started to have cold start issues with some lumpy idling and fumbling during starts. I replaced the coil on cylinder #2 and that cleared up almost ALL my driveability issues. Turns out perhaps the o-ring on the charge pipe may have been incorrectly seated as well. But, it was likely a coil starting to act up that was causing the majority of my issues The car pulls like freight train now and my timing is on point. One thing to note...you need to replace FMIC.. mine is stock now as well and IATs can climb over 40 degrees just doing a few spirited runs. I have one on order now. Not only can the heat rob your power, but it's probably not good to continuously run the motor like that. Also, there's a lot of other factors that may contribute to overall boost/timing. Maybe try switching which fuel station you use if you happen to use the same one.. or add some boostane if the timing is weird to try and rule out fuel as a cause. Techron may help clean some things up as well. Ok that's about all I got for now.. best of luck. |
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06-11-2019, 08:53 AM | #9 | |
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06-11-2019, 10:31 AM | #10 |
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So based on the recommendations of another forum member I took another look at my plugs and coils. Plugs looked good as new with about 7k miles on them and the gap was unchanged. I had the intention of replacing all my coils and purchased a set. However, I noticed that as I was pulling them, the cyclinder #2 coil had some brown discoloration and a bit of a burnt smell inside. All the other coils looked essentially new. I figured I'd start with that one and see what happens. After I replaced just that one it seemed like all my issues went away. It's only been about 350 miles thus far, but all seems well. My timing now across all cylinders seems uniform. I am in by no means a log expert other than trying to point out inconsistencies and look at trends. However, the people at BM3 and many of the members on the BM3 facebook group are helpful. What I noticed before replacing the coil is some variations in ignition timing and corrections. Now all seems uniform. Coincidence or not I dunno... but that one coil seemed suspect and now all seems well after replacement.
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06-11-2019, 10:40 AM | #11 |
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thats great news....
So if you plan to re-flash your stock map then you need to be prepared with coils/sparks as well, if anything goes "wrong"...... just in case. |
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06-11-2019, 10:43 AM | #12 | |
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