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      12-20-2017, 11:16 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cycle Pilot View Post
Hey, guys. I need some help. I've been able to install them and I followed the directions. I have clicking near the top of the strut mounts. I've closely looked at the springs and they are installed correctly. They look just like the photos that the OP posted. Has anybody else had this issue? I'm at a loss.
So, I'm quoting myself because I think this is really important. I found out what I did wrong. You need to make sure to compress the new springs enough to take all of the pressure off the top cover. THEN torque the top strut nut to specs and release the spring's pressure. As soon as I did this the noise went away. I think there was too much pressure on the strut bearing or it wasn't sitting straight because the nut wasn't completely torqued to the strut. I hope this makes sense and saves somebody trouble.
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      12-21-2017, 06:59 PM   #46
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Just curious, but can you describe the clicking sound? Was it like a tapping click sound (light in tone) or did it sound more dense?
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      12-21-2017, 07:06 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by cxp213 View Post
Just curious, but can you describe the clicking sound? Was it like a tapping click sound (light in tone) or did it sound more dense?
The best way I can describe it was plastic sounding. Medium. Definitely not grinding or metallic sounding. Does that help?
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      12-21-2017, 07:19 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cycle Pilot View Post
The best way I can describe it was plastic sounding. Medium. Definitely not grinding or metallic sounding. Does that help?
Sort of. I guess I'm going to have to check mine just in case. I feel like I have unnecessary noise sometimes, but it's more of a slightly muted thud than clicking.
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      12-22-2017, 03:26 AM   #49
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stupid question coming up.

does it matter which way up the springs go.??
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      12-22-2017, 12:02 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hasser View Post
stupid question coming up.

does it matter which way up the springs go.??
There is a top and bottom. I don't think there is a left and right though. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but you should be able to read "dinan" updright when they are installed.
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      12-23-2017, 07:43 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmwilson125 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hasser View Post
stupid question coming up.

does it matter which way up the springs go.??
There is a top and bottom. I don't think there is a left and right though. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but you should be able to read "dinan" updright when they are installed.
Ok makes sense the writing on the springs would the right way up.
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      12-26-2017, 04:41 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sail Boat View Post
Off the top of my head...

Rear Strut bolt 70ft/lb
Rear Knuckle Bolt 120 ft/lb

Top Hat Nut 45 ft/lb (hand torque gauge works just fine)
Top Hat bolts 25 ft/lb
Endlink nut 35 ft/lb (hand torque gauge works just fine)
Pinch Bolt 35 ft/lb
Here are the torque specifications from the BMW ISTA, note that most of the torques require a jointing torque followed by an additional torque angle as these are torque-to-yield bolts, so the bolts need to be replaced:

Front struts
Cross-brace screw - 56Nm +90° (replace screw)
3x strut bearing screws (if M8 thread) - 30Nm +90° (replace screws)
3x strut bearing screws (if M10 thread) - 56Nm +90° (replace screws)
Pinch bolt - 44Nm +90° (replace bolt and nut, tighten down with suspension in normal position)
Shock absorber to top bearing - 64Nm (replace nut)

Rear
Shock absorber to camber arm - 100Nm +90° (replace bolt and nut, tighten down with suspension in normal position)
Camber arm to wheel carrier - 165Nm (replace nut)

Torque Conversions:
30Nm - 22ft lb
44Nm - 32ft lb
56Nm - 41ft lb
64Nm - 47ft lb
100Nm - 74ft lb
165Nm - 122ft lb

Last edited by aerobod; 12-26-2017 at 04:47 PM..
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      03-14-2018, 09:18 PM   #53
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Hey going to tackle this in a few days, I purchased a 1/2in socket set but just realized there 12point sockets and not 6point will they still work? Also I should be purchasing metric and not SAE correct?
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      03-14-2018, 11:11 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by este View Post
Hey going to tackle this in a few days, I purchased a 1/2in socket set but just realized there 12point sockets and not 6point will they still work? Also I should be purchasing metric and not SAE correct?
Yes and yes. 6 point is preferred, though.
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      03-15-2018, 12:28 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by este View Post
Hey going to tackle this in a few days, I purchased a 1/2in socket set but just realized there 12point sockets and not 6point will they still work? Also I should be purchasing metric and not SAE correct?
Make sure you get all the tools you need in this thread. The pinch joint spreader is key. I didn't think I needed it - big mistake. Also I had a rear bolt(s) that was e-torx but 12 point worked.
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      03-15-2018, 07:47 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cxp213 View Post
Yes and yes. 6 point is preferred, though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by M235SDCA View Post
Make sure you get all the tools you need in this thread. The pinch joint spreader is key. I didn't think I needed it - big mistake. Also I had a rear bolt(s) that was e-torx but 12 point worked.

cool thanks for the info, Yes I seem to have the majority, were you able to find the pinch spreader at any local stores?
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      03-15-2018, 08:53 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by este View Post
cool thanks for the info, Yes I seem to have the majority, were you able to find the pinch spreader at any local stores?
eBay has it for cheap, but a pry bar works just as well if not better.
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      03-16-2018, 03:05 PM   #58
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I couldn't get a pry bar in there. At least not the one I had. Best option is probably eBay although ECS I think has them. During my installation I was in a bit of a bind so took an angle grinder / grinding wheel and made one from a 2" extension. Worked perfect.
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      03-18-2018, 10:10 AM   #59
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Iv used this kit multiple times on a few m235s. I like the design better than the socket style. Having the right tools makes the job way easier

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004W...KIL&ref=plSrch

https://m.ebay.com/itm/ASTRO-PNEUMAT...ty!08054!US!-1
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      03-21-2018, 11:50 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zipphreak View Post
Iv used this kit multiple times on a few m235s. I like the design better than the socket style. Having the right tools makes the job way easier

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004W...KIL&ref=plSrch

https://m.ebay.com/itm/ASTRO-PNEUMAT...ty!08054!US!-1
I've done this process a few times trying out different camber plates and this tool has been priceless.
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      04-11-2018, 12:40 PM   #61
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Looking at the pinch joint spreader, wouldn't a wedge, chisel or rotated ground bolt do the same job?
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      04-25-2018, 11:25 AM   #62
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Nice detailed post. I've been thinking about getting Dinan Supplemental Ride Quality & Handling Kit for BMW for my 230i.

Question about the springs, can they be used to lower the car more then 1/2 inch?

Last edited by Sidm; 04-26-2018 at 04:53 PM..
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      05-05-2018, 01:05 PM   #63
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Thank you very much for the DIY! Got mine done this weekend. Took me quite a bit longer. I had a heck of a time getting the struts out and then getting everything back together. Lots of wiggling and raising, lowering the jack to get it lined up to put bolts back through.
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      08-14-2018, 06:45 PM   #64
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Did you guys get an alignment after install?
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      08-14-2018, 08:55 PM   #65
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Quote:
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Did you guys get an alignment after install?
Yes you should.
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      05-18-2019, 12:33 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cycle Pilot View Post
So, I'm quoting myself because I think this is really important. I found out what I did wrong. You need to make sure to compress the new springs enough to take all of the pressure off the top cover. THEN torque the top strut nut to specs and release the spring's pressure. As soon as I did this the noise went away. I think there was too much pressure on the strut bearing or it wasn't sitting straight because the nut wasn't completely torqued to the strut. I hope this makes sense and saves somebody trouble.
Sounds to me like theres metal on metal you should look for any contact between the top hat and chassis
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