[snaketh]

Anyone else had this issue? I'm in CA it's not cold here but I think Rain-X additive I put in got gummed up.

Wondering if I need to take off the bumper...

[overcoil]

I think there is another thread about the washer fluid and tank from about a year ago or less - it might have a post about repair.

https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show...t=Washer+fluid


I’ll search more to see if I can find the thread about repair if it exist

This is it https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show...t=Washer+fluid.

[snaketh]

Thanks Scott! I did a search before posting amd didn't see those.

I'm gonna try take it in and see if the dealer takes pity on me. I think I'll omit the rain-X part

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by snaketh

I'm gonna try take it in and see if the dealer takes pity on me. I think I'll omit the rain-X part

They'll know as it's well known to BMW that Rain-x clogs the sprayers and the factory stuff does not.

[Maynard]

My dealership made a point of warning about this problem (RainX or a/t with silicon killing the pump or some other part of the assembly), but they also alluded to having replaced several units under warranty. I'd go in expecting a replacement, unless you got a clear warning and didn't follow it.

[snaketh]

So the dealer was great but I can't afford their price. Got the wheel off and the inner arch but the bottle won't budge . Anyone did this on the F22?

I've seen vids for the 3 which looks easier, and the 1 series but that seems different too.

[aerobod]

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ystem/HPPxe8kt

[snaketh]

Originally Posted by aerobod

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ystem/HPPxe8kt

Awesome, thanks!

[snaketh]

I fixed the problem. Thanks aerobod for the link. Once I removed the washer bottle I popped out the filter and a LOT of gunge came out. Cleaned the filter which was covered in this stuff, and rinsed through some alcohol. Works fine now. For those wondering, or those stumbled here this is the steps I took:

This isn't hard but it did invole a lot of swearing because my water bottle was full and quite heavy. You can't syphon water out of it because after the inlet there is a plastic piece blocking your tube from entering. Also it's different to the 3 series guide.

1.) Remove front wheel with 17mm deep socket.

2.) Remove inner wheel arch. This is held on by: 8mm, 10mm, and T30 screws, and 3 pop rivets which you need to replace (30 cents each). The plastic pop rivets are removed by using a small jewlers screwdriver or a pin by pushing the middle in.

3.) Remove the one 10mm nut securing the washer bottle.

4.) Pull the washer bottle down from where the 10mm nut is. You need to seperate the bottle from the inlet pipe. There is a plastic lug shaped like an L at the base of the bottle. Once you rotate the bottle 30 degrees or so clockwise you can then lift the bottle directly upwards and back a touch and it will pop out it's housing.

5.) Carefully slide bottle towards front of car. Removing the pump is easy just pull out and up.

6.) Torque the lug nuts to 103 ft/lbs, one source was 101, the other 105, another 103. I think anything over 100 is enough but do your own research on that.

Never use Rain-X additive, that stuff is pure garbage.

P.S. I'm not a mechanic, you are responsible if you follow my crappy 'guide'

[aerobod]

Originally Posted by snaketh

I fixed the problem. Thanks aerobod for the link. Once I removed the washer bottle I popped out the filter and a LOT of gunge came out. Cleaned the filter which was covered in this stuff, and rinsed through some alcohol. Works fine now. For those wondering, or those stumbled here this is the steps I took:

This isn't hard but it did invole a lot of swearing because my water bottle was full and quite heavy. You can't syphon water out of it because after the inlet there is a plastic piece blocking your tube from entering. Also it's different to the 3 series guide.

1.) Remove front wheel with 17mm deep socket.

2.) Remove inner wheel arch. This is held on by: 8mm, 10mm, and T30 screws, and 3 pop rivets which you need to replace (30 cents each). The plastic pop rivets are removed by using a small jewlers screwdriver or a pin by pushing the middle in.

3.) Remove the one 10mm nut securing the washer bottle.

4.) Pull the washer bottle down from where the 10mm nut is. You need to seperate the bottle from the inlet pipe. There is a plastic lug shaped like an L at the base of the bottle. Once you rotate the bottle 30 degrees or so clockwise you can then lift the bottle directly upwards and back a touch and it will pop out it's housing.

5.) Carefully slide bottle towards front of car. Removing the pump is easy just pull out and up.

6.) Torque the lug nuts to 103 ft/lbs, one source was 101, the other 105, another 103. I think anything over 100 is enough but do your own research on that.

Never use Rain-X additive, that stuff is pure garbage.

P.S. I'm not a mechanic, you are resonsible if you follow my crappy 'guide'

Good to see that it is any easy fix, your write-up is very good. Luckily I stopped using Rain-X washer fluid when the problems became widely known a year or so ago.

The wheel bolt torque is 140Nm, so the variation in ft/lbs reported on different sites is due to inaccurate conversion, accurately it should be 103.25 ft/lbs, if you don't have a torque wrench with a Newton Metre scale. Most torque wrenches are only accurate to about +/-10% of the nominal value, though. BMW torques and distance measurements are always metric, so usually best to go back to their documentation (such as on newtis.info) to get the original values.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by aerobod

The wheel bolt torque is 140Nm, so the variation in ft/lbs reported on different sites is due to inaccurate conversion, accurately it should be 103.25 ft/lbs...

^ This.

I have a pro-grade adjustable torque wrench I've been using for years, and it's worked quite well when torquing lug nuts. Then I found out about this 140 Nm-only torque wrench:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/71126769683/.

As I no longer have to play around with my old wrench's mechanical adjustment mechanism, I've been quite pleased with the new wrench. Best of all, perhaps, is that it's a BMW part, and it's very moderately priced at $33.36 from ECS. It's a few bucks more at BavAuto: https://www.bavauto.com/catalog/product/view/id/418659/.