01-31-2017, 10:57 AM | #2 | |
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Good luck!
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01-31-2017, 03:50 PM | #3 |
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You may want to check over on N54Tech.com, I've seen several guys over there who've done turbo upgrades on the n20/n26. Caution is definitely advised though, forged internals are pretty much a requirement once you get past about 22 or 23 lbs of boost with these engines.
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01-31-2017, 04:28 PM | #4 | |
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Stubok has a Pure Stage turbo...see if he chimes in.
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01-31-2017, 04:29 PM | #5 | |
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01-31-2017, 06:19 PM | #6 |
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We sold a couple pure stage 2 ... I recommend you use the JB4 and datalog
Stay conservative with your map and you will be fine
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02-07-2017, 06:56 PM | #9 |
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Yup I have a Stage 2 Turbo (Stage 1 being compressor only and Stage 2 being turbine and compressor upgrades).
Here is what I was given by my Turbo supplier, though I have not measured the wheels. OEM BMW N20 TURBO COMPRESSOR: 56/42mm TURBINE: 47.3/41.2mm (This is a stock reverse TD04L turbine) N20 TURBO Upgrade: BILLET COMPRESSOR: 60/48.5mm TURBINE: 52/45.6mm (This is a stock reverse TD04HL turbine - so just the next size up). Both Turbine and compressor housings need to be machined to accept the new wheels. From what I've read on matching the Turbine to the Compressor, it's important that the Compressor inducer is about the same size as the Turbine exducer. Which in both cases seems close enough. I was told the Stage 2 has more than enough capacity to get to 400HP (which would be 336HP at wheels with 16% transmission loss). Again more reading suggests you need about 1lbs/min of air for every 10HP. So for 400HP you need about 40lbs/min of air (which is about 580cfm at 120degf IAT). I don't have the compressor map for the billet wheel, so I can't say for sure, but given the size of the wheel, I'm unsure if it can make 40Lbs/min at a low pressure ratio of 2.75 (that's 22psi+1PSI FMIC drop + 14.7psi atm / 14.7psi atm - 1psi filer negative). I also don't know how efficient the compressor is at this point. (i.e. What island it's on during at the above performance). So I can't tell if its adding lots of heat or not at that point. From logs it seems that at higher rpm's IATs aren't as hot as they were with the stock turbo turned up, so it seems more efficient. That could also just be the monster FMIC I installed lol. No doubt if I turn it up again I'll see more heat. Hopefully just not a lot more. Anyway... As indicated above I'm not pushing more than 22PSI for now. ACF Performance Flash tune (over Bootmod3) is targeting 330lbft torque at the wheels. Wheel HP output is 315. AFR at 12.5 and timing isn't super aggressive... Trying to not blow my engine before my next round of upgrades. I've ordered Forged Pistons & Rods, and will be getting Upgraded rod bearings, rod bolts, Head studs and the new Oil Pump chain before I turn up the boost anymore. Then I'll probably go to 26psi tapering to 20, which should get over 350wHP. Tuner says at that point 400wHP is no problem and maybe a lot more with a wet shot of Nitrous. |
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02-07-2017, 06:57 PM | #10 |
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Oh and as CalCarNut said, there is more to it.
The guys that have blown engines have typically lost oil flow (yup there's the secondary oil chain again), spun a bearing or stretched a rod bolt and threw a rod. Some info I've seen on other boards lately have been that n20's are seizing camshafts and I've seen some cracked Pistons, but those looked like the classic overheated charge with tight ring gaps and when the rings have no where to expand they crack the piston. So at a minimum if your going to turn up the boost (past 22PSI) you should get the latest n20 oil pump chain and upgrade rod bearings and rod bolts and keep your charge as cool as possible. You can do that with a bigger intercooler, bigger Turbo that provides the increased mass flow at higher efficiency (therefore adding less heat), and spraying water meth works too. Incidentally while I was writing this response I found another Turbo supplier (not where I got mine) Full-Race.com and it looks like a pretty good deal! |
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07-15-2023, 04:32 PM | #12 |
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07-17-2023, 09:29 AM | #13 |
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Mine is a 220i, Idk after reading so mucho how reliable it would be to have an n20 with stock internals past 280whp you can maybe add some e85 gain 10-40 hp more but still, not as a DD car. Just my thoughts
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