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      12-12-2018, 11:45 PM   #23
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I've changed pads/rotors on my cars my whole life. It was only with this 235 that two dealers and one indy told me they change both at the same time.

You can probably skip the need to change the rotors after the first set of pads wear down. But the rotors might not last the full life of the new pads. I'm going to measure my rotors next time my pads wear out. Doing pads on these cars is cake. Rotors are a bit harder; the brembo style calipers are more complicated and I've read a few stories of sheared bolts.

I don't know your financial situation but if you anticipate earning more money later in life the 228 is a good stop gap to the 235. I kinda wanna 'upgrade' to the 240 next year but it's hard to justify. A jump from a 228 to a 235 is a nice little upgrade.
The standard wear on BMW rotors is 1.6mm, if they have worn less than that at pad change, you can still put another set of pads on, as per the BMW TIS (technical service system). Normally you will get two sets of pads for each set of rotors, based on the 5 BMWs I have owned and the BMWs of other enthusiasts that I know.
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      12-13-2018, 12:15 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by aerobod View Post
The standard wear on BMW rotors is 1.6mm, if they have worn less than that at pad change, you can still put another set of pads on, as per the BMW TIS (technical service system). Normally you will get two sets of pads for each set of rotors, based on the 5 BMWs I have owned and the BMWs of other enthusiasts that I know.
Good to know, looks like I'll be saving some $$$ in a few month by doing the pads only.
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      12-13-2018, 12:26 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by supraBimmerPlz View Post
Haha thanks! Yeah, the 228 is enticing. I tested a SULEV a few weeks ago, and it was the most fun I'd had driving a car in a long time.

Not sure about the whole pad/rotor thing. I see people often mention that the change them together. Could be for tracking purpose, which I don't plan on doing. Seems kind of stupid to make rotors wear with pads, no? I've been driving 4pots all my life, so I really just want to experience driving a 6 cyl now lol. It's the main reason I'm trying to avoid the 228i, but that's the next best thing, I suppose. Who knows, I might make an impulse buy.

What bolt ons do you have? Tuned?
for what it is worth, the n55 in the m235 is widely regarded as a one of the best engines from bmw in terms of reliability. the 4cyl isnt a bad engine, but you wont be sacrificing any reliability with the 6 over the 4.
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      12-13-2018, 06:39 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snaketh View Post
I've changed pads/rotors on my cars my whole life. It was only with this 235 that two dealers and one indy told me they change both at the same time.

You can probably skip the need to change the rotors after the first set of pads wear down. But the rotors might not last the full life of the new pads. I'm going to measure my rotors next time my pads wear out. Doing pads on these cars is cake. Rotors are a bit harder; the brembo style calipers are more complicated and I've read a few stories of sheared bolts.

I don't know your financial situation but if you anticipate earning more money later in life the 228 is a good stop gap to the 235. I kinda wanna 'upgrade' to the 240 next year but it's hard to justify. A jump from a 228 to a 235 is a nice little upgrade.
The standard wear on BMW rotors is 1.6mm, if they have worn less than that at pad change, you can still put another set of pads on, as per the BMW TIS (technical service system). Normally you will get two sets of pads for each set of rotors, based on the 5 BMWs I have owned and the BMWs of other enthusiasts that I know.
Gotcha. But is there a sensor for rotor wear as there is for pads? It'd be nice not to have to measure 1.6mm on the rotors each time lol.
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      12-13-2018, 06:46 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snaketh View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by supraBimmerPlz View Post

Not sure about the whole pad/rotor thing. I see people often mention that the change them together. Could be for tracking purpose, which I don't plan on doing. Seems kind of stupid to make rotors wear with pads, no? I've been driving 4pots all my life, so I really just want to experience driving a 6 cyl now lol. It's the main reason I'm trying to avoid the 228i, but that's the next best thing, I suppose.
I've changed pads/rotors on my cars my whole life. It was only with this 235 that two dealers and one indy told me they change both at the same time.

You can probably skip the need to change the rotors after the first set of pads wear down. But the rotors might not last the full life of the new pads. I'm going to measure my rotors next time my pads wear out. Doing pads on these cars is cake. Rotors are a bit harder; the brembo style calipers are more complicated and I've read a few stories of sheared bolts.

I don't know your financial situation but if you anticipate earning more money later in life the 228 is a good stop gap to the 235. I kinda wanna 'upgrade' to the 240 next year but it's hard to justify. A jump from a 228 to a 235 is a nice little upgrade.
Yeah, after some more digging, I'm seeing people change rotors every other pad change, which seems to be in line with what some of y'all have said. So I guess that expense would be every 2 years or so (I'm assuming the pads last a year, ~12k mi).

Financially, I have zero commitments right now. But although I love cars, and driving, I would still want enough to travel and what not. I'd be hard pressed to enjoy that if I had to put in a couple thousand each year into my car alone. That's my concern. I'll likely be getting a raise and/or bonus soon, but I'd rather not buy on the anticipation of money I don't currently have.

I'm seeing 228i models go for $17-20k around here. Some 2016 models are just over that at $22k. But the majority of these are around the 40-50k miles range, which is where I've heard things start going south on these cars. Still open to getting one, but more research to be done.
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      12-13-2018, 06:49 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aozer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by supraBimmerPlz View Post
Haha thanks! Yeah, the 228 is enticing. I tested a SULEV a few weeks ago, and it was the most fun I'd had driving a car in a long time.

Not sure about the whole pad/rotor thing. I see people often mention that the change them together. Could be for tracking purpose, which I don't plan on doing. Seems kind of stupid to make rotors wear with pads, no? I've been driving 4pots all my life, so I really just want to experience driving a 6 cyl now lol. It's the main reason I'm trying to avoid the 228i, but that's the next best thing, I suppose. Who knows, I might make an impulse buy.

What bolt ons do you have? Tuned?
for what it is worth, the n55 in the m235 is widely regarded as a one of the best engines from bmw in terms of reliability. the 4cyl isnt a bad engine, but you wont be sacrificing any reliability with the 6 over the 4.
Yeah, it's not the engine that worries me, though. I've heard nothing but good things about the N55 itself. But surrounding components like the charge pipe, water pump, HPFP, etc. and the plethora of electronics in these cars are a concern; these seem to be plastic pieces. I can replace them with aluminum, but labor costs seem like they'd be insane. I can try doing them myself, but I feel like I'd be too worried I'd mess something up, and not risk any major hardware work.
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      12-13-2018, 07:50 AM   #29
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tbh these cars should be pretty good maintenance wise. The N55 is a solid engine especially our version with a lot of the updates.
Just change your oil every 5k and a lot of the horror stories you hear will not happen.
The electronics on the car are the only thing I really worry about but we only have two windows so that's not so bad. But all the screens and stuff.
Injectors are pretty cheap compared to other direct injection injectors.
If you have an auto I would change the fluid every 50k
If you do a full brake job they should last 4-5 years depending on miles.
Tires arn't bad on this car not super wide.
Waterpump is a big one. On the N54 they usually last till 80k
We have better cooling on our cars so they should be better plus I know a lot of people with the x5 who are over 100k miles and never had it done yet.
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      12-13-2018, 02:05 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supraBimmerPlz View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by snaketh View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by supraBimmerPlz View Post

Not sure about the whole pad/rotor thing. I see people often mention that the change them together. Could be for tracking purpose, which I don't plan on doing. Seems kind of stupid to make rotors wear with pads, no? I've been driving 4pots all my life, so I really just want to experience driving a 6 cyl now lol. It's the main reason I'm trying to avoid the 228i, but that's the next best thing, I suppose.
I've changed pads/rotors on my cars my whole life. It was only with this 235 that two dealers and one indy told me they change both at the same time.

You can probably skip the need to change the rotors after the first set of pads wear down. But the rotors might not last the full life of the new pads. I'm going to measure my rotors next time my pads wear out. Doing pads on these cars is cake. Rotors are a bit harder; the brembo style calipers are more complicated and I've read a few stories of sheared bolts.

I don't know your financial situation but if you anticipate earning more money later in life the 228 is a good stop gap to the 235. I kinda wanna 'upgrade' to the 240 next year but it's hard to justify. A jump from a 228 to a 235 is a nice little upgrade.
Yeah, after some more digging, I'm seeing people change rotors every other pad change, which seems to be in line with what some of y'all have said. So I guess that expense would be every 2 years or so (I'm assuming the pads last a year, ~12k mi).

Financially, I have zero commitments right now. But although I love cars, and driving, I would still want enough to travel and what not. I'd be hard pressed to enjoy that if I had to put in a couple thousand each year into my car alone. That's my concern. I'll likely be getting a raise and/or bonus soon, but I'd rather not buy on the anticipation of money I don't currently have.

I'm seeing 228i models go for $17-20k around here. Some 2016 models are just over that at $22k. But the majority of these are around the 40-50k miles range, which is where I've heard things start going south on these cars. Still open to getting one, but more research to be done.
Three thousand per year on maintenance. Won't it be cheaper to just get BMW warranty then?
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      12-13-2018, 02:10 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delvec03 View Post
not sure where y'all are getting your maintenance numbers from.

I've seen a lot of discussion around rotors and pads.....how long, err short rather, to you think these last? I'm on year 4 of the original parts....so that's at least half your rotor and pads per year estimate and I or you can probably get closer to 6 years.

Imo, you buy the best tires you can afford regardless of the car. moot point.

oil changes are virtually free under FCP Euro's lifetime warranty policy. pay shipping only. that also will get you wiper blades and air filters no for life, for shipping costs.

as was said, if you're a diy-er you can knock the cost way down. $2-3k/year? not even close.
Using subpar tyres would drastically reduce the enjoyment of the car especially a performance rear wheel drive car. Traction control would just be coming up all the time and the car would feel unsafe and you would not have the courage to take on corners.
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      12-13-2018, 02:58 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supraBimmerPlz View Post
Gotcha. But is there a sensor for rotor wear as there is for pads? It'd be nice not to have to measure 1.6mm on the rotors each time lol.
No rotor wear sensor, just use a micrometer or vernier calipers to measure the thickness. Here is the procedure: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...nce/1VnXXFM9hP
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      12-13-2018, 05:40 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by supraBimmerPlz View Post
Quote:
you're welcome! I'm with you, i want to put as little into this as I can. I have a 228i with some bolt ons.

I haven't researched the brake bad rotor recommendation, but that seems odd. I'm pretty sure that brake rotors combo replacement doesn't apply to "normal cars". the basis might because the rotors and pads wear to match each other?

it sounds like you can keep the car alive. some more in depth research would show what you will probably need to replace the belt tensioner ($30) and water pump ($500 ish, I think), everything else on the car (228 in my case) has been solid.

I'm sure you can stay under $10k. hell, if it gets that expensive I'm gonna have some issues, too!
Haha thanks! Yeah, the 228 is enticing. I tested a SULEV a few weeks ago, and it was the most fun I'd had driving a car in a long time.

Not sure about the whole pad/rotor thing. I see people often mention that the change them together. Could be for tracking purpose, which I don't plan on doing. Seems kind of stupid to make rotors wear with pads, no? I've been driving 4pots all my life, so I really just want to experience driving a 6 cyl now lol. It's the main reason I'm trying to avoid the 228i, but that's the next best thing, I suppose. Who knows, I might make an impulse buy.

What bolt ons do you have? Tuned?
k&n air filter, charge pipe, down pipe, jb4.

I can honestly say that I'm done with upgrades. it's my daily driver and I can't put any more money into it! hah.

based on each if the upgrades and tune, I'm guessing I'm around 320 hp/tq. plenty!
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      12-13-2018, 05:44 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supraBimmerPlz View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by snaketh View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by supraBimmerPlz View Post

Not sure about the whole pad/rotor thing. I see people often mention that the change them together. Could be for tracking purpose, which I don't plan on doing. Seems kind of stupid to make rotors wear with pads, no? I've been driving 4pots all my life, so I really just want to experience driving a 6 cyl now lol. It's the main reason I'm trying to avoid the 228i, but that's the next best thing, I suppose.
I've changed pads/rotors on my cars my whole life. It was only with this 235 that two dealers and one indy told me they change both at the same time.

You can probably skip the need to change the rotors after the first set of pads wear down. But the rotors might not last the full life of the new pads. I'm going to measure my rotors next time my pads wear out. Doing pads on these cars is cake. Rotors are a bit harder; the brembo style calipers are more complicated and I've read a few stories of sheared bolts.

I don't know your financial situation but if you anticipate earning more money later in life the 228 is a good stop gap to the 235. I kinda wanna 'upgrade' to the 240 next year but it's hard to justify. A jump from a 228 to a 235 is a nice little upgrade.
Yeah, after some more digging, I'm seeing people change rotors every other pad change, which seems to be in line with what some of y'all have said. So I guess that expense would be every 2 years or so (I'm assuming the pads last a year, ~12k mi).

Financially, I have zero commitments right now. But although I love cars, and driving, I would still want enough to travel and what not. I'd be hard pressed to enjoy that if I had to put in a couple thousand each year into my car alone. That's my concern. I'll likely be getting a raise and/or bonus soon, but I'd rather not buy on the anticipation of money I don't currently have.

I'm seeing 228i models go for $17-20k around here. Some 2016 models are just over that at $22k. But the majority of these are around the 40-50k miles range, which is where I've heard things start going south on these cars. Still open to getting one, but more research to be done.
brake pads last 12k miles!? I'm at 58k on the original pads.

just sharing....
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      12-13-2018, 07:15 PM   #35
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Quote:
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brake pads last 12k miles!? I'm at 58k on the original pads.

just sharing....
Agreed, this seems a bit off. Perhaps conserving momentum is not a popular practice these days...
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      12-13-2018, 07:41 PM   #36
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delvec03 View Post
brake pads last 12k miles!? I'm at 58k on the original pads.

just sharing....
Agreed, this seems a bit off. Perhaps conserving momentum is not a popular practice these days...
am I doing heel toe right?
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      12-13-2018, 08:24 PM   #37
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am I doing heel toe right?
I'd say so!
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      12-14-2018, 11:19 AM   #38
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brake pads last 12k miles!? I'm at 58k on the original pads.

just sharing....
You should definitely get more than 12k miles.

Im on my second set, but i drive really hard.

To put it in perspective, at 47k miles, i just put on my 4th set of tires.
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      12-14-2018, 12:18 PM   #39
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Brake pad and tyre life is totally dependant on how and where the car is driven. When I lived in the UK and drove 'B' roads as much as possible, I would typically get 8,000 miles to a set of tyres (summer performance) and 12,000 miles to a set of brake pads. In Canada I typically get 30,000km (18,000 miles) to a set of tyres (always summer performance or winter tyres) and 50,000 km {30,000 miles) to a set of brake pads for cars that are not used on the track and typically are used about 50% on the highway and 50% around the city.

At auto-X tyres will only last about 80km (50 miles) or about 60 runs, but brake pad wear isn't that bad, can't really determine the wear rate due to the short runs. On track days tyres last about 1000km (600 miles) and brake pads about 2,000km (1,200 miles).
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      12-14-2018, 03:53 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delvec03 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by supraBimmerPlz View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by snaketh View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by supraBimmerPlz View Post

Not sure about the whole pad/rotor thing. I see people often mention that the change them together. Could be for tracking purpose, which I don't plan on doing. Seems kind of stupid to make rotors wear with pads, no? I've been driving 4pots all my life, so I really just want to experience driving a 6 cyl now lol. It's the main reason I'm trying to avoid the 228i, but that's the next best thing, I suppose.
I've changed pads/rotors on my cars my whole life. It was only with this 235 that two dealers and one indy told me they change both at the same time.

You can probably skip the need to change the rotors after the first set of pads wear down. But the rotors might not last the full life of the new pads. I'm going to measure my rotors next time my pads wear out. Doing pads on these cars is cake. Rotors are a bit harder; the brembo style calipers are more complicated and I've read a few stories of sheared bolts.

I don't know your financial situation but if you anticipate earning more money later in life the 228 is a good stop gap to the 235. I kinda wanna 'upgrade' to the 240 next year but it's hard to justify. A jump from a 228 to a 235 is a nice little upgrade.
Yeah, after some more digging, I'm seeing people change rotors every other pad change, which seems to be in line with what some of y'all have said. So I guess that expense would be every 2 years or so (I'm assuming the pads last a year, ~12k mi).

Financially, I have zero commitments right now. But although I love cars, and driving, I would still want enough to travel and what not. I'd be hard pressed to enjoy that if I had to put in a couple thousand each year into my car alone. That's my concern. I'll likely be getting a raise and/or bonus soon, but I'd rather not buy on the anticipation of money I don't currently have.

I'm seeing 228i models go for $17-20k around here. Some 2016 models are just over that at $22k. But the majority of these are around the 40-50k miles range, which is where I've heard things start going south on these cars. Still open to getting one, but more research to be done.
brake pads last 12k miles!? I'm at 58k on the original pads.

just sharing....
I remember seeing 12k miles for them somewhere lol. Guess I'll cross that off. I mean, it definitely seems a little out there even for me, but I don't know any better regarding BMWs, sooo
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