[accs]

Originally Posted by Bibopp

With a lift and a friend to help you, i think 2 hours taking your time is absolutely OK.

Unplug carefully the sensor in the CP and the vaccum plug if your car is automatic. Remove the 2 clips at each end of the CP ( Intercooler side and engine side ).

Then put the car at approximately 50 centimeters from the floor. 1 person goes under the car and 1 stays with the hands on the engine bay. The one under : push and flip the CP. The one over : pull and flip the CP.

Change the 2 o-rings in the new CP and apply a little bit of grease around the o-ring ( order o-rings from a BMW dealer ).

From the up of the engine bay, insert the lower part of the CP ( the one which goes on the intercooler ) and let it fall until the intercooler. Don't worry, it won't completely fall in the floor.

Up the car, plug the lower part of the CP on the intercooler. Put the clip to secure. Insert the silicone part and the clamping clip on the lower part of the CP. Do not tight it now.

Down the car and insert the upper part of the CP. Try to link it approximately on the silicone part and to the engine. Put the clip to secure on the engine side.

Up the car and adjust the silicone with the 2 parts of the CP. Tight the clamping clips.

Plug the sensor and the vaccum.

Done

Will try soon, 2 hours sounds good but my skills are not ideal hahaha

[Alpine2]

worth mentioning that the lower chargepipe o-ring (That connects to intercooler) is direction specific.

I wasnt able to get a proper seal until I flipped that o-ring to the proper orientation

[Bibopp]

Accs : you will succed Just be careful with the wires of the sensor which connect on the up part of the CP, especially when you will try to pull the OE CP. The sheaths which protect the wires are fragile. When i did my CP change, one of the steath went away and a wire was not properly protected. It generated an error code. So i put a clean steath around the wire and everything was OK.

Alpine2 : yes the o-ring is specific with a little lip in one of the two side. The lip has to be oriented to the exterior side of the CP part.

[XCC Motorsports]

I installed the Evolution Racewerks charge pipe this past week and have some pointers for anyone that is interested.

Factory Charge Pipe Removal:

Pull the neck of the factory charge pipe from the top and rotate counter-clockwise to get the best angle for the lower portion to slide out freely. It takes some patience, but will eventually come out.

Pro tip: Remove the intake air box and harness cover next to the strut tower to provide better accessibility.

ER Charge Pipe Install:

After several attempts, I found the easiest method was to connect both sections of the piping with the supplied silicone coupler outside of the vehicle. However, I tightened only the upper piping section t-bolt clamp, leaving the lower t-bolt clamp loose. Be sure to push the lower piping section all the way into the silicone coupler until the lower piping section spins freely within the silicone coupler.

Now, insert the entire assembly from the top, rotating the lower piping section until the orientation allows it to slide into the correct position. Connect the throttle body c-clamp to lock the upper piping section. Move under the car now and slide the lower piping section onto the cold side of the intercooler, securing it with the lower c-clamp.

Finally, tighten the lower t-bolt clamp on the silicone coupler. You may need to back-out the lower piping section from the silicone coupler slightly before doing so. This will help ensure a smooth transition from the piping sections and silicone coupler.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by XCC Motorsports

I installed the Evolution Racewerks charge pipe this past week and have some pointers for anyone that is interested.

Factory Charge Pipe Removal:

Pull the neck of the factory charge pipe from the top and rotate counter-clockwise to get the best angle for the lower portion to slide out freely. It takes some patience, but will eventually come out.

Pro tip: Remove the intake air box and harness cover next to the strut tower to provide better accessibility.

ER Charge Pipe Install:

After several attempts, I found the easiest method was to connect both sections of the piping with the supplied silicone coupler outside of the vehicle. However, I tightened only the upper piping section t-bolt clamp, leaving the lower t-bolt clamp loose. Be sure to push the lower piping section all the way into the silicone coupler until the lower piping section spins freely within the silicone coupler.

Now, insert the entire assembly from the top, rotating the lower piping section until the orientation allows it to slide into the correct position. Connect the throttle body c-clamp to lock the upper piping section. Move under the car now and slide the lower piping section onto the cold side of the intercooler, securing it with the lower c-clamp.

Finally, tighten the lower t-bolt clamp on the silicone coupler. You may need to back-out the lower piping section from the silicone coupler slightly before doing so. This will help ensure a smooth transition from the piping sections and silicone coupler.

Great tips. Enjoy!

[Blu3RSX]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

If warranty is an issue, get a JB+ ... Takes minutes to install/uninstall

If you decide in the future (once warranty expires) to get a JB4 , you can return it to us for a full credit or you sell it used and get another tune

Does this apply to the JB Stage 1 also? I was interested in getting one for my 135i. Also, how soon would it ship if I ordered on Dec. 28th because I ordered some stuff from another place on December 1st but they won't ship anything until December 14th for some reason. The parts were listed as In Stock, too.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Blu3RSX

Does this apply to the JB Stage 1 also? I was interested in getting one for my 135i. Also, how soon would it ship if I ordered on Dec. 28th because I ordered some stuff from another place on December 1st but they won't ship anything until December 14th for some reason. The parts were listed as In Stock, too.

Yes it does apply to the stage 1 as well.

Part is in stock, order it before 1 pm pacific and we will get it shipped out today.
We send BMS tunes with Fedex Express (at no extra cost), you will receive it in 2 days

[Blu3RSX]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

Yes it does apply to the stage 1 as well.

Part is in stock, order it before 1 pm pacific and we will get it shipped out today.
We send BMS tunes with Fedex Express (at no extra cost), you will receive it in 2 days

[Bruceflorida]

Perfect timing for this, my CP also broke at the connection with the clip. Upgrade time!

[dono2454]

still havent done this yet. does the cp come with a new o-ring?

[Bruceflorida]

It can, when you order it you have the option to buy a new one

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by dono2454

still havent done this yet. does the cp come with a new o-ring?

Originally Posted by Bruceflorida

It can, when you order it you have the option to buy a new one

Correct. It's not really needed unless you lost your stock one or your stock is old/worn/ripped.