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      11-08-2021, 01:52 PM   #1
HogFan760
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Adding a sub, which Technic PNP adapter?

I’m adding an all in one JL 10” sub/amp combo. I want to use the Technic PNP
https://www.2addicts.com/forums/newt...ewthread&f=520

I’m a little confused about which one I need. I sent a message and email but no response. I hope he’s still in business.

I have a 2018 240 with the HK system. I am pretty sure I need the 676/674 Add a sub LOC. That part is easy. But there are 2 options, one for the 50W LOC and the other for a 100W LOC with line level control.

I’m pretty sure all I need is the 50W LOC but thought I’d ask here. I did look through pages and pages but didn’t find an answer.
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      11-11-2021, 02:09 AM   #2
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76/74 standard is what I got. Works great easy hook up.
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      02-02-2022, 10:29 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HogFan760 View Post
I’m adding an all in one JL 10” sub/amp combo. I want to use the Technic PNP
https://www.2addicts.com/forums/newt...ewthread&f=520

I’m a little confused about which one I need. I sent a message and email but no response. I hope he’s still in business.

I have a 2018 240 with the HK system. I am pretty sure I need the 676/674 Add a sub LOC. That part is easy. But there are 2 options, one for the 50W LOC and the other for a 100W LOC with line level control.

I’m pretty sure all I need is the 50W LOC but thought I’d ask here. I did look through pages and pages but didn’t find an answer.
Hello HogFan. Did TechnicPnp get back to you? Does anyone have any ideas? I am in the same boat. 2014 M235i, HK HiFi (S674), plan to install a JL 12inch sub and an amp. Thanks!

===============
Edit:
TechnicPnp just replied to my email. Here's what they said:
Standard (50W) LOC is used mostly for a one sub-amp install; the Premium (100W with gain control) LOC is mostly used for multi-amps installs that require additional gain control.
If you are installing a single amp, then you may choose the Standard LOC.

hope this helps.
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Last edited by KAY-OS; 02-02-2022 at 11:05 AM..
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      02-02-2022, 12:58 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KAY-OS View Post
Hello HogFan. Did TechnicPnp get back to you? Does anyone have any ideas? I am in the same boat. 2014 M235i, HK HiFi (S674), plan to install a JL 12inch sub and an amp. Thanks!

===============
Edit:
TechnicPnp just replied to my email. Here's what they said:
Standard (50W) LOC is used mostly for a one sub-amp install; the Premium (100W with gain control) LOC is mostly used for multi-amps installs that require additional gain control.
If you are installing a single amp, then you may choose the Standard LOC.

hope this helps.
I got this one: HiFi (676)/HK (674) add-a-sub harness/LOC - 50W LOC

It’s super easy to install and works like a charm. Just note that the signal coming out of the one that I got is already crossed over. So if you can turn off your amps crossover, then do that. Or, turn up the crossover to something like 150 or higher and you’ll get all of those frequencies. When I first hooked it up and setup my crossover to ~90hz, my bass was almost non-existent. Turning up the crossover to on my amp made it much better.

What you like and what I like may be different. I found that anything on my crossover over 150 sounded muddy. As it is, I could probably go a little lower to clean it up.

Another bad thing, the deck lid will rattle. I installed a remote bass knob for my JL setup and can turn down the bass. It rattles bad at some frequencies and doesn’t at others. It’s weird. I’m going to wait until it’s warmer outside and fiddle with the rear deck to figure out what is rattling.
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      02-03-2022, 03:30 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HogFan760 View Post
I got this one: HiFi (676)/HK (674) add-a-sub harness/LOC - 50W LOC

It’s super easy to install and works like a charm. Just note that the signal coming out of the one that I got is already crossed over. So if you can turn off your amps crossover, then do that. Or, turn up the crossover to something like 150 or higher and you’ll get all of those frequencies. When I first hooked it up and setup my crossover to ~90hz, my bass was almost non-existent. Turning up the crossover to on my amp made it much better.

What you like and what I like may be different. I found that anything on my crossover over 150 sounded muddy. As it is, I could probably go a little lower to clean it up.

Another bad thing, the deck lid will rattle. I installed a remote bass knob for my JL setup and can turn down the bass. It rattles bad at some frequencies and doesn’t at others. It’s weird. I’m going to wait until it’s warmer outside and fiddle with the rear deck to figure out what is rattling.
Thanks for the heads up. I am new to audio tuning so I am learning as I go.
I was about to get the all-in-one JL 10 inch powerwedge+ combo too, but then I saw the Visual Ice enclosure and decided to go with it.
I am planning to get the Visual Ice enclosure with the JL 12 inch 12Tw3-D4 with the JL XD300/1v2 amp.

Just out of curiosity, how did you figure that the signal from the TechnicPnp harness is already crossed over? I am assuming it is crossed over from the HK amp? Crossover is the same as setting the freq filter correct? I wonder if your 2018 HK system is the same as my 2014 HK and if the signal coming out of my TechnicPnp is already crossed over or not. Anyway to find out? The JL XD300/1v2 amp has the ability to turn off the low pass filter.
Thanks!
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      02-05-2022, 09:00 PM   #6
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You can confirm with Technic but my understanding of the add-a-sub harness is that it is a LOC (Line Out Converter) so it goes BEFORE your factory amp which in this case still allows your factory amp to be in use for your other speakers. Any processing by the factory amp will only affect the speakers connected to the factory amp. The add-a-sub signal should be a clean/flat signal from the factory head unit.

You can always run test tones through your system to see if you're getting the low frequencies. Just make sure they are lower frequency tones than your low pass point

So with a full signal into your sub amp you'll need to use a low pass crossover(filter) on the sub amp to dial out frequencies above what you believe sounds the best out of your sub(without a REW tune you'd just be tuning by ear and so whatever your preference is). Low pass can be as low as 50Hz (that amp can't go any lower than 50Hz) and some people low pass as high 100Hz. I wouldn't recommend low passing any higher than 100Hz-120Hz because subs make awful-sounding midrange speakers and the higher you make your sub play the more you localize the sound from it, meaning it will pull the sound stage back from in front of you because the sub is playing frequencies your other speakers are playing as well.

A nice thing about that JL amp is that it offers you a choice of low pass slopes, 12/24 dB/octave. 12db is more shallow, 24db is steeper. One is not necessarily better than the other for low passing a sub, just try which one sounds the best. BTW, there is no subsonic crossover on this amp so you won't be able to high pass out any real low frequencies. With a sealed enclosure you won't need a subsonic filter. Only vented enclosers need a subsonic filter to protect the sub from destroying itself below the enclosure tuning frequency.
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      02-06-2022, 07:38 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jv92red View Post
You can confirm with Technic but my understanding of the add-a-sub harness is that it is a LOC (Line Out Converter) so it goes BEFORE your factory amp which in this case still allows your factory amp to be in use for your other speakers. Any processing by the factory amp will only affect the speakers connected to the factory amp. The add-a-sub signal should be a clean/flat signal from the factory head unit.

You can always run test tones through your system to see if you're getting the low frequencies. Just make sure they are lower frequency tones than your low pass point

So with a full signal into your sub amp you'll need to use a low pass crossover(filter) on the sub amp to dial out frequencies above what you believe sounds the best out of your sub(without a REW tune you'd just be tuning by ear and so whatever your preference is). Low pass can be as low as 50Hz (that amp can't go any lower than 50Hz) and some people low pass as high 100Hz. I wouldn't recommend low passing any higher than 100Hz-120Hz because subs make awful-sounding midrange speakers and the higher you make your sub play the more you localize the sound from it, meaning it will pull the sound stage back from in front of you because the sub is playing frequencies your other speakers are playing as well.

A nice thing about that JL amp is that it offers you a choice of low pass slopes, 12/24 dB/octave. 12db is more shallow, 24db is steeper. One is not necessarily better than the other for low passing a sub, just try which one sounds the best. BTW, there is no subsonic crossover on this amp so you won't be able to high pass out any real low frequencies. With a sealed enclosure you won't need a subsonic filter. Only vented enclosers need a subsonic filter to protect the sub from destroying itself below the enclosure tuning frequency.
Thanks for the info. I'll shoot an email to TechnicPnp to confirm.

I'm planning on setting the low pass filter to 80Hz as a starting point, as suggested by JL and other recommendations on the world wide web.

According to the manual, their tuning tip is to use the 12db/octave slope if the sub is installed in a trunk that is blocked off by the rear seat (so that more upper bass can pass through) and use 24db/octave if the sub is directly firing into the cabin. I'll try the 12 db/octave slope first since we have the seats in the way.

Everything is ordered. Now I just have to wait for it to arrive!
====================

Edit: I emailed TechnicPnp and they responded really quickly. Here is their response:
The HK OEM 7ch outputs are all crossed over - 5ch are high passed, 2ch are low passed.
LOC input signal is low-passed -there is no bass in a high-passed signal.
Your aftermarket amp crossover should be set to low at about 80Hz.

Hope this helps!
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Last edited by KAY-OS; 02-06-2022 at 08:43 AM..
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      02-06-2022, 02:09 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KAY-OS View Post
The HK OEM 7ch outputs are all crossed over - 5ch are high passed, 2ch are low passed.
LOC input signal is low-passed -there is no bass in a high-passed signal.
Your aftermarket amp crossover should be set to low at about 80Hz.
Ah, ok. So this Add-A-Sub is wired in AFTER the amp from the speaker outputs. This explains why the signal is processed. My thought was that this Add-A-Sub would be able to intercept the low-level signal coming into the amp like the other Technic harness but that other Technic harness bypasses the factory amp altogether.

So the signal is already low passed but at what frequency did the factory amp make this low pass filter happen and at what slope. Not that you would need that answered necessary but keep that in mind so along with an unknown factory crossover point and slope there also may be other bass frequency processing that you never know what's going on within the factory amp: eq boosting? subsonic filtering? BMW may have set up a subsonic filter to cut out very low frequencies in order to protect the factory under-seat woofers which are only 8" and don't have as much XMAX or throw as a regular aftermarket sub. So this filter could be cutting out very low frequencies you may want for your 12" sub. Hard to say unless you run a frequency response analysis to see. But that requires REW download, a mic and then some research on your end or an audio shop to do that so a can of worms essentially but I digress. Overall what your doing will sound better in the end as is compared to no sub and this solution should work fine for the majority of users. I would prefer to work with a clean unprocessed signal and process it myself.
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      02-07-2022, 09:04 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jv92red View Post
Ah, ok. So this Add-A-Sub is wired in AFTER the amp from the speaker outputs. This explains why the signal is processed. My thought was that this Add-A-Sub would be able to intercept the low-level signal coming into the amp like the other Technic harness but that other Technic harness bypasses the factory amp altogether.

So the signal is already low passed but at what frequency did the factory amp make this low pass filter happen and at what slope. Not that you would need that answered necessary but keep that in mind so along with an unknown factory crossover point and slope there also may be other bass frequency processing that you never know what's going on within the factory amp: eq boosting? subsonic filtering? BMW may have set up a subsonic filter to cut out very low frequencies in order to protect the factory under-seat woofers which are only 8" and don't have as much XMAX or throw as a regular aftermarket sub. So this filter could be cutting out very low frequencies you may want for your 12" sub. Hard to say unless you run a frequency response analysis to see. But that requires REW download, a mic and then some research on your end or an audio shop to do that so a can of worms essentially but I digress. Overall what your doing will sound better in the end as is compared to no sub and this solution should work fine for the majority of users. I would prefer to work with a clean unprocessed signal and process it myself.
Thanks for the detailed insight. Wow. That is a very big can of worms. Ha. I just want some harder hitting bass. I hope this sub and the amp can achieve my goal. If I didn't get the HK system, I would probably look into replacing the HK system and perhaps go down the deep audio rabbit hole.
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      02-08-2022, 09:25 AM   #10
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Get the Audiotech-Fischer MATCH BMW 7UP amp. It's totally tuneable. And it's plug and play.
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      02-08-2022, 09:54 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcoZandrini View Post
Get the Audiotech-Fischer MATCH BMW 7UP amp. It's totally tuneable. And it's plug and play.
Yes, I've heard good things about it. I will definitely look into it if the sub does not fulfill my audio needs.
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