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      09-03-2016, 11:25 PM   #23
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Hey Same is True For Hifi on the drivers side rear deck.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Solarphil View Post
Update with steps for replacing rear speakers:
First, pry up the grills with a thin edge of your trim tool. I think it's a little easier to work on the speakers if you put the rear seats down, although these photos have them up. Live and learn.
Attachment 1421091
I've got the HK so I've got tweeters, I believe the base stereo doesn't but here's a photo of the stock HK setup for the history books.
Attachment 1421092

Each speaker is held in place with three torx bits, same bit as the front speakers. You will need a low profile driver, but a stubby torx driver might fit.
Attachment 1421093

You can then pull up the speaker to find two sets of wires if you have the HK. The ones with the black heatshrink bundle go to the tweeter, and can be tucked back in out of the way unless you're replacing with a component set. I'm using Coax JL's, so I'll just leave the old tweeters there. The wires with the cloth tape are the important ones coming from the amp.
Attachment 1421094

I used a pick to disconnect the latch. A small screwdriver would work fine too.
Attachment 1421095

If you're using JL speakers from Selmeralto's post, you'll need to break two tabs off one side.
Attachment 1421096

Closeup of the electrical connections. Pay attention to polarity, it matters.
Attachment 1421097

Good crimpers are like sliced bread. Once you use them, you'll never figure out how you got along without them.
Attachment 1421098

I think I'm ready to rock here. I picked up the wiring harnesses from ebay, search for BMW OEM speaker connector harness.
Attachment 1421099

You know when I mentioned polarity matters? Well, apparently you can't trust BMW to be consistent. I connected everything up like I *thought* it ought to work, but I was less than happy about the bass response from the rear. Well, it turns out the left and right factory harnesses have the + in opposite spots. F**** f**** f****. Lessons learned - don't just trust the way the plugs fit into the socket, confirm the wires on one side of the plug match the wires on the other side.
Attachment 1421103
I should also mention that I don't think it's fair to hang this on the ebay vendor - i bought two sets of adapters (4 total) because I wasn't sure how many I'd need, and they're all identical. I think this may be a BMW thing. Or i'm just lucky.

Anyway, back to installing speakers. The stock speaker has three mounting points, and the JL has four (two that you snap off earlier to fit). I could have left it hanging on the two points, but that seemed likely to cause a lot of vibration and noise not to mention crappy sealing. I thought about cutting up some scrap metal to catch the 3rd mounting point when I realized the Jeezus clips shipped with the JL speakers might offer a solution - they had a hooked tang on one side, and the offset of the screw hole was just the right distance. I just had to drill out the snail shell screw hole to clear the stock BMW mounting screws. A 3/16" drill bit worked great. Use a vise or maybe visegrips if you've got nothing better - the clips are spring steel and will grab, which will seriously fubar your fingers if you're silly enough to try to hold them by hand while drilling.
Attachment 1421104

Here's a shot of the third clip, installed.
Attachment 1421105

Much happiness. Cervesas, all around!
Hey thanks a big one for this! On my hifi system. Your are right. The polarity is switched. Strangely all the other speakers were correct polarity.

Question for you. Was the drivers side rear deck the only odd polarity setup?

In my case, everything was correct except the drivers side rear deck.

I used the brown stripe wire as the negative in all situations.
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Last edited by fancyfl1ght; 09-03-2016 at 11:30 PM..
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      09-04-2016, 10:52 PM   #24
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Drivers rear was the only backwards wire pair. I have no idea why it's this way, but it looks like it's consistent across multiple vehicles. I did confirm the final hookup with test tones at http://www.audiocheck.net/index.php and it sounds right when that one speaker is wired "wrong"
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      11-19-2016, 02:50 PM   #25
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soooo, im apparently an idiot. I followed the directions some members posted but i must have dicked it up somewhere along the way. I removed the rear speakers and cut the wires to the BMW plugs. I crimped on new speaker plugs and installed the speaker and im getting nothing. I reversed the wires and still get nothing, no sound at all even when i isolate that specific speaker thru idrive. So anyone else do this or am i the only one. I have the HK speakers with the tweeter so i just used the wire that was connected to the stock speaker and disregarded the wire that went to the stock tweeter. I even used the other speaker i was sent in case one was faulty but nothing out of that one either. Thanks in advance for any help
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      11-20-2016, 06:46 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCTAtc View Post
soooo, im apparently an idiot. I followed the directions some members posted but i must have dicked it up somewhere along the way. I removed the rear speakers and cut the wires to the BMW plugs. I crimped on new speaker plugs and installed the speaker and im getting nothing. I reversed the wires and still get nothing, no sound at all even when i isolate that specific speaker thru idrive. So anyone else do this or am i the only one. I have the HK speakers with the tweeter so i just used the wire that was connected to the stock speaker and disregarded the wire that went to the stock tweeter. I even used the other speaker i was sent in case one was faulty but nothing out of that one either. Thanks in advance for any help
One thing you could do is go over all the pictures in this discussion and in the Strangelove discussion and make a note of all the color coding on the wires. Then compare the pictures with what you've got. That'd at least get you on the road to determining if you've connected all the wires in all the right places.
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      11-20-2016, 08:30 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by selmeralto View Post
One thing you could do is go over all the pictures in this discussion and in the Strangelove discussion and make a note of all the color coding on the wires. Then compare the pictures with what you've got. That'd at least get you on the road to determining if you've connected all the wires in all the right places.
Unfortunately I'm still not getting any signal so I'm guessing I will just have to run a new wire from the amp?? Has anyone had to do this? I'm confused
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      11-21-2016, 12:16 AM   #28
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Somehow you aren't completing the circuit. Some possibilities: if the wire wasn't fully stripped and you crimped on over insulation, if you pulled a wire loose, if you connected to the tweeter wires instead of the supply wires, shorted something to ground and triggered a protective circuit in the amp, or some other creative mix. Even if you had + & - backwards you'd still get sound.

My suggestion would be to go back to step one and check everything again. If you haven't touched the other speaker yet, compare it against your work and see what's different. Plug the old speaker in to see if that one works.

Good luck.
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      04-21-2017, 09:38 AM   #29
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Thanks for the info OP. Used this guide last night to do my install
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      04-21-2017, 09:47 AM   #30
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Even for those not using Bavsound speakers I would HIGHLY encourage you to check their install video. This DIY is great and the photos are very helpful, but watching someone do it on a video can be a huge help. Especially when it comes to things like how to unplug the speakers for example. They have a video for every car.
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      07-05-2017, 10:04 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchfort View Post
Just replaced all four speakers with Focals and just wanted to say thanks for the great directions in this thread. Used the recommended eBay spacers and BMW harnesses and it all went off without a hitch (mostly!). Much better sound overall!
curious which ones you used and which wiring harnesses. I'm debating coaxes for the doors, but I guess it will be a minor pia to do the wiring to the tweeters because the tweeters are wired through the midrange.
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      07-06-2017, 03:38 AM   #32
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Its a shame they don't ship outside the US and they only have two European partners!
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      07-06-2017, 05:49 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solarphil View Post
I wanted to post a 2-specific thread on how to swap out speakers -- I know there are a lot of other posts pointing to the 3 series, but I found (after I broke a couple bits) that the doors on the 2 are a bit different. It ain't rocket science, but I figured I'd light a candle instead of cursing the darkness.

I'm going to focus this thread on getting access and doing the swap, and not on the name brands of the speakers used. There's lots of threads and a lot of good speakers out there, some even fit, I'm not going to beat that horse (but for the record I'm following Selmeralto's lead for a solid budget upgrade). I've got HK but most of this should be the same for Hifi too.

This post is starting with the front door speakers, but when I swap out the rear ones next week I'll update.

Primary tools needed are a T20 Torx driver, but a set of trim removal tools are super handy. A small screwdriver to unlock some of the electrical connections can help too. I like having a magnetic tool tray nearby to keep me from kicking the screws away into the gravel too.

First, remove the handle trim to access the two screws hidden behind it. I began prying at the bottom edge, where there's a small recessed slot.
Attachment 1416906

Next, remove the two screws that are behind that trim.
Attachment 1416907

Two more screws are on the bottom edge of the door. I think these angle *slightly* downwards, so don't bung up the heads by holding your screwdriver horizontal and not angling it just right.
Attachment 1416908

Next, and this is where I made my little mistake, don't forget to catch the last screw which is hidden behind the recess at the door latch handle. The recess trim piece pops out super easy, sorry I didn't get a photo but it just takes your small trim tool to get under an edge. Behind that trim there's the fifth and final screw that needs to be snagged. If you forget this and try to pop off the door skin, you will break the heat welds that hold the latch bracket in place. Not the end of the world, things can be fixed and put back together but you will be pissed at yourself at random moments for the rest of your life. Don't do that.
Attachment 1416909

Once you've gotten those taken care of, carefully pry the door skin away from the door. I started at the lower edge, near the hinges. Once you get a small pry tool behind it, you can either get your fingers behind it or another, larger pry tool. Work your way around the door prying straight outwards towards yourself until the bottom and sides are loose, then work your way across the top edge.

Once you get the door skin loose, there are three electrical cables and one mechanical cable holding it to the door. Other videos have shown people disconnecting all of them to remove the door skin totally, however I found if I could release just the top electrical cable that runs to the door latch handle I could prop the skin out of the way enough to swap out the speakers. YMMV but you'll definitely need to release this one.
Attachment 1416910

The speaker has two electrical connections at the top that need to be unplugged, sorry I didn't get a shot of that. After that, there's three torx screws that need to be removed (these are slightly different than the door skin screws, so don't get them mixed up) then the speaker pulls straight out from the door. The foam on mine had just a little bit of tack to the door, but they peeled right out with a slight persuasion.

The sail panels came off with a bit more prying. They are mostly held in with friction and the shape of the gaskets, but there was a sticky butyl rubber-type gunk sealing the mounting feet to the door, I'm betting to cut down wind noise.
Attachment 1416911

Once you get the sail panels off, the foam backing pulls away - it's simply held in by friction. The tweeters pop out with a tug, although you might have to give some persuasion to the small tabs that hold it in place. The new one pops right in.

Route the cables to the right places, the tweeter foam has a little slot molded in for routing the wires down. With the Eton speakers the length of the wires and placement of the crossover caps made it a little challenging because they're not in the right place for an easy fit, but it just made it.

For the reassembly, you pretty much reverse your steps. Don't reef down too hard on the speaker mounting screws if your new speakers have a plastic flanges - they need to be solid tight, not gorilla tight. Sorry i didn't get photos of everything going together, but it was starting to sprinkle and I had to get rocking. If I open up the door again to put on some sound deadening I'll catch some more angles if there are any questions or aspects that you guys think I missed.

Finally, here's the difference between the stock HK speakers and the Etons. Night and day.
Attachment 1416912

Rock on!
I've got a 2018 M240i on order. Where did you buy the speakers?

Edit: Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Eton-100-Way-...eton+speakers&

Last edited by MarcoZandrini; 07-06-2017 at 05:56 PM..
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      07-06-2017, 05:57 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by illingworth22 View Post
Its a shame they don't ship outside the US and they only have two European partners!
Check Amazon. They are sold on the US version of Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Eton-100-Way-...eton+speakers&
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      07-16-2017, 11:36 PM   #35
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Yeppers, I got mine from the good folks at Amazon.
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      08-14-2017, 10:39 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solarphil View Post
Update with steps for replacing rear speakers:
First, pry up the grills with a thin edge of your trim tool. I think it's a little easier to work on the speakers if you put the rear seats down, although these photos have them up. Live and learn.
Attachment 1421091
I've got the HK so I've got tweeters, I believe the base stereo doesn't but here's a photo of the stock HK setup for the history books.
Attachment 1421092

Each speaker is held in place with three torx bits, same bit as the front speakers. You will need a low profile driver, but a stubby torx driver might fit.
Attachment 1421093

You can then pull up the speaker to find two sets of wires if you have the HK. The ones with the black heatshrink bundle go to the tweeter, and can be tucked back in out of the way unless you're replacing with a component set. I'm using Coax JL's, so I'll just leave the old tweeters there. The wires with the cloth tape are the important ones coming from the amp.
Attachment 1421094

I used a pick to disconnect the latch. A small screwdriver would work fine too.
Attachment 1421095

If you're using JL speakers from Selmeralto's post, you'll need to break two tabs off one side.
Attachment 1421096

Closeup of the electrical connections. Pay attention to polarity, it matters.
Attachment 1421097

Good crimpers are like sliced bread. Once you use them, you'll never figure out how you got along without them.
Attachment 1421098

I think I'm ready to rock here. I picked up the wiring harnesses from ebay, search for BMW OEM speaker connector harness.
Attachment 1421099

You know when I mentioned polarity matters? Well, apparently you can't trust BMW to be consistent. I connected everything up like I *thought* it ought to work, but I was less than happy about the bass response from the rear. Well, it turns out the left and right factory harnesses have the + in opposite spots. F**** f**** f****. Lessons learned - don't just trust the way the plugs fit into the socket, confirm the wires on one side of the plug match the wires on the other side.
Attachment 1421103
I should also mention that I don't think it's fair to hang this on the ebay vendor - i bought two sets of adapters (4 total) because I wasn't sure how many I'd need, and they're all identical. I think this may be a BMW thing. Or i'm just lucky.

Anyway, back to installing speakers. The stock speaker has three mounting points, and the JL has four (two that you snap off earlier to fit). I could have left it hanging on the two points, but that seemed likely to cause a lot of vibration and noise not to mention crappy sealing. I thought about cutting up some scrap metal to catch the 3rd mounting point when I realized the Jeezus clips shipped with the JL speakers might offer a solution - they had a hooked tang on one side, and the offset of the screw hole was just the right distance. I just had to drill out the snail shell screw hole to clear the stock BMW mounting screws. A 3/16" drill bit worked great. Use a vise or maybe visegrips if you've got nothing better - the clips are spring steel and will grab, which will seriously fubar your fingers if you're silly enough to try to hold them by hand while drilling.
Attachment 1421104

Here's a shot of the third clip, installed.
Attachment 1421105

Much happiness. Cervesas, all around!
I confirmed that the rear speaker wiring on the 2018 M240 is STILL inconsistent: the right rear speaker (behind passenger side) has a red stripe wire connected to + on the speaker. The - wire is brown stripe. On the rear left speaker (behind driver's side), the + speaker wire is brown stripe whereas the - wire is red stripe. By the way, I installed Morel Maximo Ultra 4" coax speakers. They have a much larger magnet than the OEM speakers and just clear the bottom of the speaker opening. They seem to really smooth out the mid-range: significant sound improvement even without replacing the door speakers.
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      08-14-2017, 01:13 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by havinfun View Post
I confirmed that the rear speaker wiring on the 2018 M240 is STILL inconsistent: the right rear speaker (behind passenger side) has a red stripe wire connected to + on the speaker. The - wire is brown stripe. On the rear left speaker (behind driver's side), the + speaker wire is brown stripe whereas the - wire is red stripe. By the way, I installed Morel Maximo Ultra 4" coax speakers. They have a much larger magnet than the OEM speakers and just clear the bottom of the speaker opening. They seem to really smooth out the mid-range: significant sound improvement even without replacing the door speakers.
Just to prove how something so simple can be complicated, I had understanding from the comments that the plug was wired differently and that the red striped wire was STILL the positive one on the driver's side. The opposite of what you've said above! The OP said red to red (positive) so that's what i did. Now, I'm not that impressed with my rears, so maybe i have the polarity reversed! Happy to be set straight! Did you actually check the polarity? I didn't.
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      08-14-2017, 01:15 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by illingworth22 View Post
Its a shame they don't ship outside the US and they only have two European partners!
Extreme audio gladly ships to the U.S. and their customer service has been outstanding.
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      08-15-2017, 07:46 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryem3 View Post
Just to prove how something so simple can be complicated, I had understanding from the comments that the plug was wired differently and that the red striped wire was STILL the positive one on the driver's side. The opposite of what you've said above! The OP said red to red (positive) so that's what i did. Now, I'm not that impressed with my rears, so maybe i have the polarity reversed! Happy to be set straight! Did you actually check the polarity? I didn't.
I checked the polarity of both rear speakers (via simple 1.5v battery test). The speakers are identical with the + terminal on the right as you view the speaker from the rear and connector facing downward.
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      08-16-2017, 12:53 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by havinfun View Post
I checked the polarity of both rear speakers (via simple 1.5v battery test). The speakers are identical with the + terminal on the right as you view the speaker from the rear and connector facing downward.
Thanks very much for the input! From this info, I'm going to draw the OPPOSITE conclusion from the OP. The harness connects the red stripe wire to the black lead on the harness, which should be negative and that is correct on the driver's side. If I've interpreted this correctly, the wires are consistently used in the connectors, but are not consistently colored.
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      08-17-2017, 07:31 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viffermike View Post
Some additional notes and comments based on my Hi-Fi install (it's exactly the same except for a couple of speaker- and sail panel-related details) many moons ago:



This, along with the trim tools, is pretty much mandatory. Even the casual at-home mechanic should have one of these. Also: grab a conventional bowl to keep track of door-panel plugs that pop out.



True, but you'll need to remove the panel completely to install sound deadening. The tricky electrical connector to deal with is the one for the window/mirror switchgear; it has a silver plastic dual-arm latch that needs to be rotated up and over the harness plug before the connector can be unplugged. That latch is easy to break, so be careful.

Here's the big thing to note, though: whatever you do, do NOT let the door panel touch the ground. The plastic and SensaTec/leather abrades and scratches VERY easily. Use towels to pad where you place the panel on the ground, and never, ever place it face down.



Hi-Fi speakers will only have one connection to undo. Also of note: Hi-Fi cars are NOT pre-wired for tweeters.



That foam helps seal the drivers against the ring on the door panel; that seal will improve sound considerably. You can replicate it on your aftermarket drivers with good 'ol regular foam rubber weather stripping. This is what I used; it worked like a charm.
Just some additional info on the door switch connector. As mentioned above, it is easy to break and is hard to see when you have the door panel off. It does not just pull off. It has a locking U-shaped bracket/arm that rotates toward the hinge side of the door panel. The connector pulls out straight down after this locking bracket is first pivoted to the "unlock" position. See attached pics. The first shows the two rows of female pins that push back upward onto the male part of the connector from underneath the door handle. The gray plastic piece in the second picture is the locking arm and in this pic is shown swung 90 degrees into the unlock position. When locked, this gray arm is pointed down.
Attached Images
  
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      08-17-2017, 07:40 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryem3 View Post
Thanks very much for the input! From this info, I'm going to draw the OPPOSITE conclusion from the OP. The harness connects the red stripe wire to the black lead on the harness, which should be negative and that is correct on the driver's side. If I've interpreted this correctly, the wires are consistently used in the connectors, but are not consistently colored.
Yes. The color coding of the speaker wires on the driver's side rear speaker are reversed from the passenger side speaker. I don't have a way to check that the amp is also wired backward for the driver's side, but the base sounds good to me so I am assuming that both rear speakers were wired in phase as delivered from the factory. There are after-market speaker phase checkers that play thru the amp to verify the end-to-end speaker phase, but I don't have one.
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      08-18-2017, 07:51 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by havinfun View Post
Yes. The color coding of the speaker wires on the driver's side rear speaker are reversed from the passenger side speaker. I don't have a way to check that the amp is also wired backward for the driver's side, but the base sounds good to me so I am assuming that both rear speakers were wired in phase as delivered from the factory. There are after-market speaker phase checkers that play thru the amp to verify the end-to-end speaker phase, but I don't have one.
Excellent, thanks. I have yet to reverse the wires, but will report back after I do.
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      08-20-2017, 04:14 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by havinfun View Post
Yes. The color coding of the speaker wires on the driver's side rear speaker are reversed from the passenger side speaker. I don't have a way to check that the amp is also wired backward for the driver's side, but the base sounds good to me so I am assuming that both rear speakers were wired in phase as delivered from the factory. There are after-market speaker phase checkers that play thru the amp to verify the end-to-end speaker phase, but I don't have one.
Switched them and indeed seems like they were reversed. Thanks so much for the advice!
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