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      03-20-2018, 09:41 PM   #1
ggggbmw
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Favorite Pressure Bleeder? Motive, Schwaben, something else?

I need to buy a brake pressure bleeder. Can't decide between the Motive Black Label and the Schwaben. Schwaben seems a bit nicer, but the Motive seems to be the standard.

Anybody who's used both have an opinion? Or any opinion on either? Or something else I should look at?

Are the fancy billet aluminum caps worth it? Seems they would be nicer just for the metal fitting.

What about catch bottles? Any favorites or goats there?

-----
Update: Bought the Schwaben. Full review here: http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=16

Last edited by ggggbmw; 04-11-2018 at 10:13 PM..
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      03-21-2018, 06:17 AM   #2
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I use the Motive Red and their catch bottle. And I would suggest have extra brake fluid on hand simply that if you do a bleed and the pedal feels soft you can do a second complete right away.


The SpeediBleed bleeder I did not like, it was hard to regulate pressure and easy to blow fluid past seals of the device.

My bleeder valves were extremely tight from the factory.
http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showt...Brake+bleeding
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      03-21-2018, 06:33 AM   #3
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I've got a Motive, and have used it on cars, trucks, golf carts, boat trailers. Bought some of their adapters but have also made my own by buying a master cylinder cap for the vehicle, some brass hose-barb fittings, clear plastic hose and hose clamps. Drill a hole in the cap, screw in the fitting, use epoxy or JB Weld to seal it, and attach the hose to the pressure bleeder. Screw the cap on, and you're good to go. I also used air hose quick connects to make "adapters" for each of the vehicles to easily connect it to the Motive unit. In general, I think these pressure bleeders save a lot of time and frustration. Tried one of the pistol shaped hand pump types, and it never worked out well for me.
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      03-21-2018, 09:38 AM   #4
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I have a Motive one that I use for my other car and it's ok. The caps require a lot more force to put on than I'd like, but it works well enough.

Anybody happen to know the cap part number that fits our M235i brake reservoirs?
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      03-21-2018, 11:56 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cxp213 View Post
I have a Motive one that I use for my other car and it's ok. The caps require a lot more force to put on than I'd like, but it works well enough.

Anybody happen to know the cap part number that fits our M235i brake reservoirs?
I find the cap for mercedes works on the bmw, I think I’ve seen them classified by German, Japanese, GM, Chrysler
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      03-21-2018, 07:53 PM   #6
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I have the Schwaben and it's really nice...
I did do this mod though....


The Schwaben seems tougher than the motive and has the pressure release button and quick connect/disconnect
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      03-22-2018, 10:22 AM   #7
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^ So... the Schwaben doesn't even come with an o-ring on the cap? How do they expect to properly seal and not bleed off any pressure without it? My Motive cap came with it and it wasn't even a concern for me. I guess that pressure release button is nice, but useless if it can't even hold pressure to begin with.
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      03-22-2018, 12:10 PM   #8
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One thing I don't like about those pressure bleeders, at least the one I had, is the outlet of the air pump inside the container sits below the level of brake fluid in the pressure bleeder tank. Unless you live in Tuscon, Arizona with 5% relative humidity you are pre-charging the fluid with moisture from the air by bubbling the air through the brake fluid. Brake fluid has a greater affinity for water than air.

For example:
Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid
Dry Boiling Point (what's inside the can) 594F
Wet Boiling Point (after you have bubbled moist air through the fluid) 399F
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      03-22-2018, 03:24 PM   #9
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^ Which pressure bleeder did you have? I don't recall my Motive one doing that but it's been a while since I last used it. I sometimes prefer to bleed the old fashion way if it's not a complete flush.
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      03-23-2018, 11:11 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cxp213 View Post
^ Which pressure bleeder did you have? I don't recall my Motive one doing that but it's been a while since I last used it. I sometimes prefer to bleed the old fashion way if it's not a complete flush.
I used the Schwaben brake bleeder. I'm now using the Gunson Eezibleed powered by a small pancake compressor with the regulator set to 20psi.


And being totally OCD the compressor output is connected to a Drierite 26800 Gas Drying Column I got off of ebay, so the air entering the Eezibleed is totally moisture free.

Yes, that is way over the top and I do need professional help. By the way Gunson says not to connect their system to a compressor for fear you will blow up their system with the regulator set to 120psi!
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      03-23-2018, 11:34 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdputnam View Post
I used the Schwaben brake bleeder. I'm now using the Gunson Eezibleed powered by a small pancake compressor with the regulator set to 20psi.


And being totally OCD the compressor output is connected to a Drierite 26800 Gas Drying Column I got off of ebay, so the air entering the Eezibleed is totally moisture free.

Yes, that is way over the top and I do need professional help. By the way Gunson says not to connect their system to a compressor for fear you will blow up their system with the regulator set to 120psi!
Very nice compressor air dryer and I guess that is why some of the pressure bleeders have the rubber bladder inside of them - fluid below the bladder and the compressed air gets introduced above the bladder and the container screws together in the middle.
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      03-26-2018, 03:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottSinger View Post
Very nice compressor air dryer and I guess that is why some of the pressure bleeders have the rubber bladder inside of them - fluid below the bladder and the compressed air gets introduced above the bladder and the container screws together in the middle.
Yes, I would defiantly look for that feature if I were in the market again. But, they won't let me out of the padded cell for a while until my obsession subsides.
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      03-28-2018, 06:05 AM   #13
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I’ve used a vacuum bleeder that’s powered by compressed air for years without any issues.
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      03-31-2018, 01:53 PM   #14
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I just bought the Schwaben today and will go get the 40mm o-ring for the cap mod. I hope it works well.
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      04-09-2018, 07:02 PM   #15
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The Schwaben bleeder has a rubber insert in the cap. New design maybe? Worked like a charm and didn't leak at all at 15 psi.
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      04-11-2018, 10:12 PM   #16
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Schwaben Review

I bought the Schwaben pressure bleeder. I'm just a sucker for German tools (I bought a BMW after all), and my other Schwaben tools were decent quality. (Craftsman quality, not SnapOn/MAC quality.) Used it to put some Motul 600 in on Saturday for a complete flush. Overall, I'm happy with it. It's not perfect, but it did the job well.

The Good
The tank has nice wide base, so it doesn't tip. Despite another posters comments, it did not bubble through the fluid when I pumped it up. Had about 750ml in the tank, which was more than enough for the flush. The pressure pumps up quick, maybe 30 strokes to 15 PSI, and the largish tank holds pressure throughout the whole bleed process. The quick release on the hose is fluid tight, so it won't leak when you connect/disconnect it to the fill cap. The hose is clear and flexible. The pressure release valve was nice and made it easy to disconnect things without a mess.

The Bad
I bought the premium edition at ECS, which came with a pretty red aluminum cap. The aluminum cap was horrible. Although it had the same rubber seal as the plastic cap, I couldn't get it to hold air on the reservoir. It was also starting to chew up the threads on the reservoir. The plastic cap fit perfectly, and was air tight with a reasonable screw-on tension. Both caps now come with a thick, soft rubber gasket, so you don't need the O-ring trick anymore. (Although, I might try it with the aluminum cap.)

The Ugly
The pump top does NOT come off the tank. I accidentally tried to unscrew it when I first took it out of the box. (I always take things apart to see how they are built.) Couldn't get it off. Then I noticed the graphics on the side of the bottle saying not do that. (Same thing in the instructions.) That means you can't take it apart to manually clean the interior.

This also means that the only way to fill the tank is via the smallish (~1") fill port where the orange pressure release cap is. I have a funnel handy to fill the brake reservoir, and to pour used fluid into recycling containers, so not hard to fill. But you do have to think about it and not just pour it in the top. (I also bought some orange funnels so that they would never go back in the kitchen.)

I used the suggested denatured alcohol method to clean the tank, and that worked great. Poured about 4 oz in, swished it around and shook the tank, and then pumped it out the hose with the cap on. The alcohol did a fantastic job of cleaning the brake fluid. It got rid of that greasy, gooey brake fluid feeling anywhere I used it. And it sure seemed to clean the tank out nicely. No more dripping brake fluid, and the alcohol will evaporate without leaving any appreciable residue if you leave the fill cap off. The tank was bone dry after airing out.

So, with the alcohol cleaning I don't have any concerns about future fluid contamination with gook in the tank. But it would still be nicer to be able to take it apart for a thorough cleaning to be absolutely sure. You could use the tank dry, and keep refilling the reservoir. I started doing it that way. But it was so much easier to just pour the fluid in the tank and let it fill the brake reservoir as necessary. And zero worries about letting the fluid get too low.

Other Thoughts
I also bought the Schwaben Catch Bottle. Very nice. The fitting and hose were perfect. Fit tight on the brake nipple, and clear enough to easily judge the quality/color of the fluid coming out. The bottle has volume markings to keep track of how much fluid you've bled. Has an optional hook to hang it, but the hose is long enough I didn't need to. The bottle will expand to go from ~700ml to a full liter if you want to. I'm split on this feature. Upside, if you need the volume, you can easily pop it open to keep fluid from spilling on the floor. Downside, the ridges make it harder to clean, and not sure how often you would need more than ~500ml in a single bleed anyway.

I'm also wondering how people drain the brake reservoir to get as much old fluid out first. I was able to get the orange rimmed filter screen out easily enough. If you pry from an outer edge with a small screwdriver it pops out. But, the fluid level float assembly totally blocked access to the tank. I couldn't get my turkey baster past it, and was only able to suck out maybe 10% of the used fluid. You would need a really tiny tube to get past the float.
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      04-12-2018, 09:12 AM   #17
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I wouldn't use too much alcohol or for too long because it will degrade your plastic, hoses, and rubbers, especially if it's of higher concentration (on the other hand, lower conc have more water).

As for getting the old fluid out, why do you even bother? You're pressure bleeding and it'll all be flushed out anyway. Plus, the reservoirs and lines on most cars are usually small enough that it probably takes longer to try to siphon out the old fluid in the reservoir rather than just taking a few extra seconds with the pressure bleeder.
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      04-13-2018, 06:23 AM   #18
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I wouldn't bother with the bleeder bottle. A piece of clear tubing (5/16"), a used water bottle, Drill a hole to match the tubing in the top and a smaller hole to vent the air. Does the same thing for less than $2. Been using this method for years.
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      04-13-2018, 07:22 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cxp213 View Post
As for getting the old fluid out, why do you even bother? You're pressure bleeding and it'll all be flushed out anyway.
I like to pull as much fluid out of the reservoir as possible before adding the new fluid. That way you get less mix between the old and new as the new comes in. Not worried about it in the lines, but the reservoir holds 200+ml, which is nearing half the total volume of fluid. I find it makes a quicker, more obvious color transition from old to new fluid at the bleed screw also.

You may be right that it's not worth it. But it's an old habit I've used for 20+ years, and it appeals to my OCD.

With my old cars, I rarely changed the fluid more often then every 4 years or so. A few extra minutes didn't make any difference. But now that I'm trying track fluids that need to be flushed every six months, I might just pour and go. (This is also why I finally broke down and bought the pressure bleeder, instead of getting the wife or kids to pump the pedal for me. )

As for the alcohol, it's not in there for more than a few minutes. Whole point is to flush it out as quick as possible. So, I'm not too worried about it. Especially with materials designed to deal with brake fluid.
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      04-13-2018, 07:30 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveInfante View Post
I wouldn't bother with the bleeder bottle. A piece of clear tubing (5/16"), a used water bottle, Drill a hole to match the tubing in the top and a smaller hole to vent the air. Does the same thing for less than $2. Been using this method for years.
You're right. The catch bottle was a splurge. Your plain tube method does work, and it's the same thing I used to do. But, a purpose built tool usually works better. And I'm a tool junkie.

And in this case, it does work better. The nipple fitting eases on and off easier, and holds better. Less likely to pop off and spray fluid the like plain tube did a few times. The translucent tubing showed the color difference between old and new tubing well. And the base on the catch bottle is also wider, so less likely to tip than an old water bottle. (But you could find a better bottle.)

For $10, I thought it was reasonable I've certainly spent more for dumber tools.
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      04-14-2018, 07:51 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggggbmw View Post
You're right. The catch bottle was a splurge. Your plain tube method does work, and it's the same thing I used to do. But, a purpose built tool usually works better. And I'm a tool junkie.

And in this case, it does work better. The nipple fitting eases on and off easier, and holds better. Less likely to pop off and spray fluid the like plain tube did a few times. The translucent tubing showed the color difference between old and new tubing well. And the base on the catch bottle is also wider, so less likely to tip than an old water bottle. (But you could find a better bottle.)

For $10, I thought it was reasonable I've certainly spent more for dumber tools.
I don't blame you. I still have a 36mm socket and flywheel nut tool from my air-cooled VW days. I was fortunate enough to find some clear tubing that was just the right size to pop on and off the bleeder ports nicely. i actually need a second tool box now.
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      09-15-2018, 06:08 AM   #22
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I'm not sure of availability in The States, but I got one of these in Australia and it worked well. I just lubed all the seals with some silicon grease to ensure good seals.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SP-Tools...72.m2749.l2649
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