[supraBimmerPlz]

Im in need of a new daily. I'm more or less in love with this car, but the supposed cost of maintenance and repairs is really holding me back. According to Edmunds, both combined run an average of $3k USD/year. How accurate is this?

The ones I can afford are around 40-60k miles. From what I've heard, that's usually when charge pipe, HPFP, and water pump issues arise. How much do these cost on average? I spoke to an Indy shop, but they refused to quote (they were nice about it, I guess) unless they had the car in front of them; the shop doesn't let you bring your own parts, which I was hoping to do, but it's the most reputable German car shop in my city.

Just want some clarity on what I can expect. Maintenance wise, I can do simple things like most fluid changes on my own. Main concerns are tires, brake pads+rotors, and bigger items like those.

Thanks in advance!

[Unicorn123]

A few suggestions Supra...

1. Go to ECS Tuning or any reputable BMW parts source to get a general idea on parts availability and pricing. I always do this before a purchase of a "performance car" as I have owned some unique cars and sometimes, parts are ridiculously expensive for limited edition performance cars. These cars do not necessarily fall into that category, but the brake rotors are not as cheap as a Jeep either.

2. Some "Indy" mechanics will only use OEM (i.e. dealer) sourced parts to avoid any complaints from customers for using "inferior" parts, so the cost of these "Indies" will be closer to the dealer. If you have the skills to change the oil and do the brakes (which is really quite simple), and you have a modest amount of mechanical aptitude (I have very little but am persistent and stubborn) you can save yourself a bunch of cash. Charge pipes are a doable DIY as well and there are a bunch of on-line tutorials for brakes and charge pipes. If you are willing to get your hands dirty, you will be better off.

3. Regarding tires, go to one of the internet tire houses (i.e. Tire Rack or equivalent) to price out tires. Most tire places today will match internet pricing so forewarned is forearmed. I know when I have had a few "emergency" tire replacements due to potholes not liking low profile tires (or vice versa), I always have internet pricing in hand when I go to the local tire place. Saves a lot of cash.

Generally speaking, if you can manage to handle the bulk of your routine maintenance by yourself (i.e. filters, fluids and brakes), the cost of a 2-Series is not much more than a Camry that is dealer maintained.

Good luck with your decision. One thing I would caution you on; if you cannot afford to maintain the car at the level required, don't buy it. Although the 2-Series is the most reliable BMW made currently, it is not bulletproof and BMW's (and most cars) in general, do not respond well to poor maintenance practices. PM is definitely the way to go with a BMW if you want it to last a long time. Not a lot of value in having a broken BMW in your driveway...

[supraBimmerPlz]

Originally Posted by Unicorn123

A few suggestions Supra...

1. Go to ECS Tuning or any reputable BMW parts source to get a general idea on parts availability and pricing. I always do this before a purchase of a "performance car" as I have owned some unique cars and sometimes, parts are ridiculously expensive for limited edition performance cars. These cars do not necessarily fall into that category, but the brake rotors are not as cheap as a Jeep either.

2. Some "Indy" mechanics will only use OEM (i.e. dealer) sourced parts to avoid any complaints from customers for using "inferior" parts, so the cost of these "Indies" will be closer to the dealer. If you have the skills to change the oil and do the brakes (which is really quite simple), and you have a modest amount of mechanical aptitude (I have very little but am persistent and stubborn) you can save yourself a bunch of cash. Charge pipes are a doable DIY as well and there are a bunch of on-line tutorials for brakes and charge pipes. If you are willing to get your hands dirty, you will be better off.

3. Regarding tires, go to one of the internet tire houses (i.e. Tire Rack or equivalent) to price out tires. Most tire places today will match internet pricing so forewarned is forearmed. I know when I have had a few "emergency" tire replacements due to potholes not liking low profile tires (or vice versa), I always have internet pricing in hand when I go to the local tire place. Saves a lot of cash.

Generally speaking, if you can manage to handle the bulk of your routine maintenance by yourself (i.e. filters, fluids and brakes), the cost of a 2-Series is not much more than a Camry that is dealer maintained.

Good luck with your decision. One thing I would caution you on; if you cannot afford to maintain the car at the level required, don't buy it. Although the 2-Series is the most reliable BMW made currently, it is not bulletproof and BMW's (and most cars) in general, do not respond well to poor maintenance practices. PM is definitely the way to go with a BMW if you want it to last a long time. Not a lot of value in having a broken BMW in your driveway...

Hey, thanks for the feedback!

Yeah, I checked FCP Euro and EVS tuning extensively for all the maintenance and repair items. Ideally, I'd like to do it myself. I'm not very experienced in terms of auto mechanics, but I can pick it up decently quick. I try to do small things here and there; I can definitely do the oil and filter, spark plugs, and most of the fluids just based on videos. I don't have tools to bleed fluids (i.e. brakes), or heavy duty tools to remove wheels in a decently timely manner. Part of it is also just the intimidation of working on a German car, which I've heard are supposedly complex on the inside, especially coming from Japanese tuners.

It's not that I can't afford it; I've run the numbers multiple times, concluding it's within my budget. I'm just not sure I'd want to spend thousands a year on a car. I take good care of my cars, so I'd be doing quite a bit of PM.

Having a hard time finding specific quotes for things like brake pads+rotors labor costs and what not online, as well.

[wichitagreg]

I used this company's stuff on my
f150 that was constantly warping rotors and fading in the rain. I pull a heavy trailer with it and I vouch for these rotors and pads. How are they cost wise compared to OEM?

[supraBimmerPlz]

Originally Posted by wichitagreg

I used this company's stuff on my
f150 that was constantly warping rotors and fading in the rain. I pull a heavy trailer with it and I vouch for these rotors and pads. How are they cost wise compared to OEM?

I think OEM off of FCP Euro are around $150ish. Not entirely sure right off the top of my head. The drilled OEM ones are roughly the same price as the ones you posted, though. But the m235i doesn't use drilled by default, iirc.

[wichitagreg]

Originally Posted by supraBimmerPlz

I think OEM off of FCP Euro are around $150ish. Not entirely sure right off the top of my head. The drilled OEM ones are roughly the same price as the ones you posted, though. But the m235i doesn't use drilled by default, iirc.

I forgot to mention , the price in my photo is for all four corners, not just one set.

Rotors are $337 a set of four.

[supraBimmerPlz]

Originally Posted by wichitagreg

I forgot to mention , the price in my photo is for all four corners, not just one set.

Rotors are $337 a set of four.

OH. That is ridiculous! I'll have to check em out, regardless of the car I get lol. Thanks for that!

[snaketh]

Originally Posted by supraBimmerPlz

Im in need of a new daily. I'm more or less in love with this car, but the supposed cost of maintenance and repairs is really holding me back. According to Edmunds, both combined run an average of $3k USD/year.

Mines a 2015. Charge pipe was covered under warranty. I'm not sure what that would cost. Rotors & Pads are around $900 per axle where I live. Tires are ~$850 for all 4. Thats almost 3k for 25-30k miles/2 years worth of maintenence. Add in Oil/Filters and other unforseen repairs and I'm sure you could creep up there.

If you're buying a 4 year+ M235i Edmunds is probably in the ballpark. Once your past 5/6 years I can pretty easily see some expensive repairs.

Good luck.

[B58togo]

Here’s some more reading.

https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1448128

[supraBimmerPlz]

Originally Posted by B58togo

Here's some more reading.

https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1448128

Yeah, I read through that thread. Your reply was the one that concerned me the most, in a good way I guess. You said to budget at least $2k a year, almost 3k to be safe. Have you found this to be true among other bimmers, namely m235i models? That cost is my biggest turn off right now.

Wondering if you just got a lemon or something?

[supraBimmerPlz]

Originally Posted by snaketh

Mines a 2015. Charge pipe was covered under warranty. I'm not sure what that would cost. Rotors & Pads are around $900 per axle where I live. Tires are ~$850 for all 4. Thats almost 3k for 25-30k miles/2 years worth of maintenence. Add in Oil/Filters and other unforseen repairs and I'm sure you could creep up there.

If you're buying a 4 year+ M235i Edmunds is probably in the ballpark. Once your past 5/6 years I can pretty easily see some expensive repairs.

Good luck.

This is what I was looking for.

I can wrench out most small things, maybe even pads and rotors, but the fact that I'd be buying out of warranty is probably enough for me to avoid getting it at this point, given the cost of those items and unforeseen costs. Also, charge pipe is about $1k at the most reputable Indy in my area, but they don't let you bring your own parts, so that might be why it's a little pricier. Ideally, I'd buy an aluminum CP off FCP Euro or ECS.

I was considering the 228i, but I feel like it suffers the same issues, more or less. Plus, I really want colored calipers lol on my next car (call me childish, but I'd love that extra oomph factor).

Guess I'll be sticking with Japanese tuners for now, which is fine, too. Just gonna miss the driving dynamics of bmw.

Thanks for the response!

[delvec03]

not sure where y'all are getting your maintenance numbers from.

I've seen a lot of discussion around rotors and pads.....how long, err short rather, to you think these last? I'm on year 4 of the original parts....so that's at least half your rotor and pads per year estimate and I or you can probably get closer to 6 years.

Imo, you buy the best tires you can afford regardless of the car. moot point.

oil changes are virtually free under FCP Euro's lifetime warranty policy. pay shipping only. that also will get you wiper blades and air filters no for life, for shipping costs.

as was said, if you're a diy-er you can knock the cost way down. $2-3k/year? not even close.

[supraBimmerPlz]

Originally Posted by delvec03

not sure where y'all are getting your maintenance numbers from.

I've seen a lot of discussion around rotors and pads.....how long, err short rather, to you think these last? I'm on year 4 of the original parts....so that's at least half your rotor and pads per year estimate and I or you can probably get closer to 6 years.

Imo, you buy the best tires you can afford regardless of the car. moot point.

oil changes are virtually free under FCP Euro's lifetime warranty policy. pay shipping only. that also will get you wiper blades and air filters no for life, for shipping costs.

as was said, if you're a diy-er you can knock the cost way down. $2-3k/year? not even close.

Appreciate your reply!
Hm, so this may come off as a dumb question, but why does BMW recommend replacing rotors along with brake pads? I haven't heard any other manufacturer suggest that. Do they both wear proportionately to the point where you have to? I saw something about the rotors not being able to be "cut" or something.

Generally, I know not to skimp out on tires, but given that I'm not planning on tracking/AutoXing, is there any other reason to buy the best tires possible (Michelin PSS?). Can I not get away with buying mid-tier tires? It doesn't snow where I live, and I don't drive like a yahoo.

As far as wrenching goes, I can do oil changes, other simple things I can probably pick up via videos. I only have a jack and two stands. Nothing fancy.

Again, I'd want the car to last 5-6 years without me putting $10k into it. I've heard so many mixed things about this topic, though. Little conflicted.

[delvec03]

Originally Posted by supraBimmerPlz

Appreciate your reply!
Hm, so this may come off as a dumb question, but why does BMW recommend replacing rotors along with brake pads? I haven't heard any other manufacturer suggest that. Do they both wear proportionately to the point where you have to? I saw something about the rotors not being able to be "cut" or something.

Generally, I know not to skimp out on tires, but given that I'm not planning on tracking/AutoXing, is there any other reason to buy the best tires possible (Michelin PSS?). Can I not get away with buying mid-tier tires? It doesn't snow where I live, and I don't drive like a yahoo.

As far as wrenching goes, I can do oil changes, other simple things I can probably pick up via videos. I only have a jack and two stands. Nothing fancy.

Again, I'd want the car to last 5-6 years without me putting $10k into it. I've heard so many mixed things about this topic, though. Little conflicted.

you're welcome! I'm with you, i want to put as little into this as I can. I have a 228i with some bolt ons.

I haven't researched the brake bad rotor recommendation, but that seems odd. I'm pretty sure that brake rotors combo replacement doesn't apply to "normal cars". the basis might because the rotors and pads wear to match each other?

it sounds like you can keep the car alive. some more in depth research would show what you will probably need to replace the belt tensioner ($30) and water pump ($500 ish, I think), everything else on the car (228 in my case) has been solid.

I'm sure you can stay under $10k. hell, if it gets that expensive I'm gonna have some issues, too!

[morphomeman]

The cars you are looking at are 4-5 years old. The only cars of that age that you might own for 5-6 years at a cost less than $10K would have to be either a Honda or a Toyota, and neither of them performance models.
In general, the higher the initial cost of a car, the higher the cost of maintenance over its lifetime. That means that a $50K BMW will always cost more to maintain than a $25K Honda of the same age and mileage. Have you ever priced a fender for a Rolls Royce? Think $20K.
As far as BMWs go, the 2-series has been the most reliable in recent years. You can look it up. But it will always cost you a bit more to maintain than a car that is less pleasurable to drive. You gets what you pays for.

[supraBimmerPlz]

Originally Posted by morphomeman

The cars you are looking at are 4-5 years old. The only cars of that age that you might own for 5-6 years at a cost less than $10K would have to be either a Honda or a Toyota, and neither of them performance models.
In general, the higher the initial cost of a car, the higher the cost of maintenance over its lifetime. That means that a $50K BMW will always cost more to maintain than a $25K Honda of the same age and mileage. Have you ever priced a fender for a Rolls Royce? Think $20K.
As far as BMWs go, the 2-series has been the most reliable in recent years. You can look it up. But it will always cost you a bit more to maintain than a car that is less pleasurable to drive. You gets what you pays for.

TBH, I've known that deep down, but I just didn't wanna accept it since I liked the car so much, and the price was in my budget lol. It's a fair point; beggars can't be choosers, right?

I feel like Lexus would do me better than Toyota/Honda econoboxes. Get the luxury with the Toyota reliability.

The Bimmer will have to be a pipe dream until later on, I suppose.

[P2]

Originally Posted by supraBimmerPlz

TBH, I've known that deep down, but I just didn't wanna accept it since I liked the car so much, and the price was in my budget lol. It's a fair point; beggars can't be choosers, right?

I feel like Lexus would do me better than Toyota/Honda econoboxes. Get the luxury with the Toyota reliability.

The Bimmer will have to be a pipe dream until later on, I suppose.

My 06 325i cost me on average $600/year. I spent a little over 6k in a 10.5 year period of ownership. That's oil changes, ATF, etc. Plus lower control arms and engine filter housing gasket.
I will say I had a rear main seal and oil pan leak that would have needed attention within 6-12 months had I kept the car.

Ironically, the worst car I ever owned was a Toyota Camry. Rods bent and it sounded like a diesel. Toyota and the dealer treated me like crap. I had it fixed and it continued to be trouble. I said I'd never by another Toyota product. I've kept that promise for 30 years.

Lot's of Hondas and they have all been cheaper to maintain then the BMW.

You never know I guess.

[paposalsa]

Originally Posted by supraBimmerPlz

TBH, I've known that deep down, but I just didn't wanna accept it since I liked the car so much, and the price was in my budget lol. It's a fair point; beggars can't be choosers, right?

I feel like Lexus would do me better than Toyota/Honda econoboxes. Get the luxury with the Toyota reliability.

The Bimmer will have to be a pipe dream until later on, I suppose.

I really doubt that Lexus are cheap to maintain ....

[supraBimmerPlz]

Originally Posted by P2

My 06 325i cost me on average $600/year. I spent a little over 6k in a 10.5 year period of ownership. That's oil changes, ATF, etc. Plus lower control arms and engine filter housing gasket.
I will say I had a rear main seal and oil pan leak that would have needed attention within 6-12 months had I kept the car.

Ironically, the worst car I ever owned was a Toyota Camry. Rods bent and it sounded like a diesel. Toyota and the dealer treated me like crap. I had it fixed and it continued to be trouble. I said I'd never by another Toyota product. I've kept that promise for 30 years.

Lot's of Hondas and they have all been cheaper to maintain then the BMW.

You never know I guess.

Ouch. Was it the v6? I've Owned two camrys in my life. A 1989, lasted up till 2005 through Canadian winters, and a 2014 that I still own. Not a single major repair on either. The '89 had its gremlins, but it was due to age if anything, and the major damage only came about once it had been stolen, driven into another car and had the front end smashed in. So I consider them fairly reliable.

I currently have an 06 civic @ 160k mi, and it's holding up fairly well, as well. Nice zippy little car.

[supraBimmerPlz]

Originally Posted by paposalsa

I really doubt that Lexus are cheap to maintain ....

From what I know, they are by far, compared to a BMW. They don't have nearly as many electronics as BMWs (I.e. electronic dipstick), and being N/A also contributed to better engine reliability, among other factors. I haven't heard of any Lexuses needing major repairs, at least not in the same time span and scale as most BMWs. I will say, though, they're pretty dull to drive. Especially compared to a BMW; night and day.

That being said, you can also get away with not spending thousands on PM for a Lexus for much longer than you can on a German car, not that you should, but you can. They're seemingly more forgiving in the long run. Friend has a '07 is350 going on 120k mi, not a single issue. And he's driven that thing with <10% oil several times for decent distances.

[supraBimmerPlz]

you're welcome! I'm with you, i want to put as little into this as I can. I have a 228i with some bolt ons.

I haven't researched the brake bad rotor recommendation, but that seems odd. I'm pretty sure that brake rotors combo replacement doesn't apply to "normal cars". the basis might because the rotors and pads wear to match each other?

it sounds like you can keep the car alive. some more in depth research would show what you will probably need to replace the belt tensioner ($30) and water pump ($500 ish, I think), everything else on the car (228 in my case) has been solid.

I'm sure you can stay under $10k. hell, if it gets that expensive I'm gonna have some issues, too!

Haha thanks! Yeah, the 228 is enticing. I tested a SULEV a few weeks ago, and it was the most fun I'd had driving a car in a long time.

Not sure about the whole pad/rotor thing. I see people often mention that the change them together. Could be for tracking purpose, which I don't plan on doing. Seems kind of stupid to make rotors wear with pads, no? I've been driving 4pots all my life, so I really just want to experience driving a 6 cyl now lol. It's the main reason I'm trying to avoid the 228i, but that's the next best thing, I suppose. Who knows, I might make an impulse buy.

What bolt ons do you have? Tuned?

[snaketh]

Originally Posted by supraBimmerPlz

Not sure about the whole pad/rotor thing. I see people often mention that the change them together. Could be for tracking purpose, which I don't plan on doing. Seems kind of stupid to make rotors wear with pads, no? I've been driving 4pots all my life, so I really just want to experience driving a 6 cyl now lol. It's the main reason I'm trying to avoid the 228i, but that's the next best thing, I suppose.

I've changed pads/rotors on my cars my whole life. It was only with this 235 that two dealers and one indy told me they change both at the same time.

You can probably skip the need to change the rotors after the first set of pads wear down. But the rotors might not last the full life of the new pads. I'm going to measure my rotors next time my pads wear out. Doing pads on these cars is cake. Rotors are a bit harder; the brembo style calipers are more complicated and I've read a few stories of sheared bolts.

I don't know your financial situation but if you anticipate earning more money later in life the 228 is a good stop gap to the 235. I kinda wanna 'upgrade' to the 240 next year but it's hard to justify. A jump from a 228 to a 235 is a nice little upgrade.