[Audios7]

Background:
Hi everyone, I’m new to the forums but have been lurking since the spring. In August I bought a 2016 m235i xdrive AT. Aside from the regular maintenance needed, I opted to replace the Chargepipe preventatively as my car had 53K miles on it. This was my first BMW DIY and I chose a challenging task with what is probably the most difficult m235i config (xdrive and AT). I also did this completely by myself and on ramps - no lift. I’m writing this mainly because it was a tough install and accessibility to the Chargepipe especially from under the car is particularly difficult. I hope others with the same model can use the tips that helped me complete it. Most of what I found online seemed to be RWD and MT. Finally, I went with an FTP Chargepipe for AT and xdrive from extreme power house and the fit was great.

Removal:
I mostly followed Xutvjet’s instructions here which were great. https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1718265

I also followed several YouTube videos. Again mostly RWD and MT.

1. In addition to Xutvjet’s instructions I also removed the small cover near the drivers side strut that covers wire harnesses. I may not be completely necessary but it felt like I had a bit more room and it’s only 1 torx screw.
2. When removing the stock Chargepipe I got impatient. I thought there was no way I was going to get it out from the top so I removed the FMIC (despite above referenced instruction). Do not do this - more on this in the install.
3. Getting the stock Chargepipe out was difficult. After failing through the bottom I went back to the top and I ended up cutting it right by the accordion section. I didn’t go all the way through but cut enough so it would bend easily. I got it out through the top this way.

Install:
1. Like I said in the removal. Don’t remove the fmic if you’re not upgrading it. I did and it was very difficult to get it seated properly on both sides without helping and lying on my back. I position the lower portion of the charge pipe in the open space without the fmic there, but if I didn’t remove it I would have slipped it through from the top. I ended up getting the fmic back in myself but it was very tough to line up without help. I think the difficulty of this is understated in the DIY videos I watched.
2. When putting in the lower piece of the Chargepipe do not attached the silicon hose. Just weave it in through the top and position it near the fmic but don’t attached it yet.
3. Attach the silicon hose to the upper piece of the Chargepipe with both clamps on it. Orient the screw on the clamps so they face down and on the driver’s side. This will give the best access from underneath. I tightened the top clamp (closest to throttle body) fairly tight but left the bottom loose.
4. Install the upper piece of the Chargepipe.
5. Go back under the car and you should have the upper piece with the silicon hose about touching the lower piece of the Chargepipe. At this point since I hadn’t connected to the fmic, so I used the free play to get the lower piece into the silicon coupler and get the clamps right. I slightly tightened the lower clamp at this point but enough that I could push/pull/twist the lower piece of the Chargepipe.
6. I seated the Chargepipe onto the fmic. This was fairly easy as it just took rotating it to find the right orientation.
7. I fully tightened the silicon hose clamps.
8. Reinstalled everything else per the instructions linked above.

Takeaways/TLDR
-Cutting the pipe made it so easy to take out.
-Don’t remove the fmic if you’re by yourself
and only have the car on ramps/jack stands.
-Follow my instruction on the silicon hose setup. I first had it attached to the lower hose and it was tough to mate the top piece of the charge pipe with the hose. I found it much easier the way I did it.

Hope someone else finds this helpful!

[pikcachu]

another life saver tip is to put some silicon based grease on both the metal pipe and the coupling hose that way you can easily adjust and rotate both parts...

[Audios7]

Originally Posted by pikcachu

another life saver tip is to put some silicon based grease on both the metal pipe and the coupling hose that way you can easily adjust and rotate both parts...

Yeah a must IMO. I used liquid dish soap for the silicon coupler and grease on the o-rings at each end (TB and fmic).

[mike@x-ph.com]

Thank you for sharing

[ggggbmw]

Originally Posted by Audios7

Takeaways/TLDR
-Cutting the pipe made it so easy to take out.

This is the best advice, and I've repeated it in a few other charge pipe posts. Just cut the pipe at least halfway at the flexible midpoint. You can then fold it and it comes right out. SO much easier.

However, do be careful with a knife cutting in this area. You are near the power feeds to the steering rack and the AC lines. Just have a sharp blade in your utility knife, and go slow with stabbing strokes to cut the pipe.

[Audios7]

Originally Posted by ggggbmw

This is the best advice, and I've repeated it in a few other charge pipe posts. Just cut the pipe at least halfway at the flexible midpoint. You can then fold it and it comes right out. SO much easier.

However, do be careful with a knife cutting in this area. You are near the power feeds to the steering rack and the AC lines. Just have a sharp blade in your utility knife, and go slow with stabbing strokes to cut the pipe.

Yup agree this was exactly how I did it.