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      05-25-2016, 12:21 AM   #1
daimeow
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Powered subwoofers

Hi guys

Wondering if anyone has added a subwoofer (not changing the underseat)?

The reason is that I listened to BxxSxxxd underseat replacement and still found the sound spectrum more in the mid-range rather than a solid bass.

I am turning to powered subwoofers since they are cheap and almost PnP. And if I really need that space back (my trunk is 99.99% of the time empty though), they come off in just seconds.

These two have generally good ratings:
http://www.carid.com/jbl/12-gt-bass-...basspro12.html

http://www.carid.com/infinity/10-bas...-basslink.html

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      05-25-2016, 02:42 AM   #2
daimeow
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Where to get one? What are they called?





http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=604195
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      05-25-2016, 05:45 AM   #3
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JL Audio has some powered Microsub+ and other models with shallow woofers and amp built in. You will pay a little more but they are pretty impressive.

I've thought about doing the XD600/6 amp and upgrading the 6 speakers inside(not the center channel) and adding one of them myself if upgraded underseat woofers don't do the job.
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      05-25-2016, 06:04 AM   #4
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If these are mounted in the trunk as shown wouldn't the thick back seats muffle and muddy the sound?
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      05-25-2016, 01:22 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by selmeralto View Post
If these are mounted in the trunk as shown wouldn't the thick back seats muffle and muddy the sound?
This is a good point. The trunk is sealed off from the cabin; those trunk subs won't work nearly as well unless you drive around with your rear seats down. Yes, they're designed to work that way (with the seats up) ... but there are better solutions.

You'll still hear output since bass is generally omnidirectional and will travel through objects (walls, seats, etc.), but they will be significantly muffled and need to be balanced for the rest of the system -- and magnify the potential for any rattles in the rear of the car. And ... if the subs handle any sort of mid-bass above 250Hz or so, you'll barely hear that at all.
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Last edited by Viffermike; 05-25-2016 at 01:29 PM..
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      05-25-2016, 10:43 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daimeow View Post
Where to get one? What are they called?
Here you go:

http://musicarnw.com/musicar-northwe...-f22-2-series/

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      05-25-2016, 11:12 PM   #7
daimeow
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Hi Mdputnam

I just figured. But they cost way too much. $500 for just the enclosure. The subwoofer itself is $200 only. I guess that's the money one has to pay for custom-built, non-mass production products.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mdputnam View Post

Last edited by daimeow; 05-25-2016 at 11:35 PM..
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      05-25-2016, 11:30 PM   #8
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Hi Viffermike

You are absolutely right about the discount from the insulation of the trunk. But I use to have a cheap no-brand self-powered underseat woofer (the power is low and the sound quality is not that great) and I put it in the trunk of the E82 135i, the bass spectrum was still improved significantly.

Regarding the rattles, I didn't have any issues (not sure in the case of a true subwoofer).

Right now, I turned up treble a little and bass a lot, and shifted to the rear a little to balance for this zero bass surround system. It sounded better for pop music but might not fit other genre. I also had a chance to listen to an Alpine retrofit system with BxxSxxxd woofers. The more I listen, the more I am convinced that swapping the HK tweeters, mids and woofers might not be the key. All that is missing is "bass". That's why I think adding a subwoofer is the logical move.

I wouldn't mind to go for other options, particularly OEM-look upgrades, but at the moment they are disappointing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Viffermike View Post
This is a good point. The trunk is sealed off from the cabin; those trunk subs won't work nearly as well unless you drive around with your rear seats down. Yes, they're designed to work that way (with the seats up) ... but there are better solutions.

You'll still hear output since bass is generally omnidirectional and will travel through objects (walls, seats, etc.), but they will be significantly muffled and need to be balanced for the rest of the system -- and magnify the potential for any rattles in the rear of the car. And ... if the subs handle any sort of mid-bass above 250Hz or so, you'll barely hear that at all.

Last edited by daimeow; 05-25-2016 at 11:54 PM..
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      05-26-2016, 09:53 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daimeow View Post
I just figured. But they cost way too much. $500 for just the enclosure. The subwoofer itself is $200 only. I guess that's the money one has to pay for custom-built, non-mass production products.
Ahhh... a cheapskate, I see.
Well, if $165 is more inline with your budget for a custom enclosure, then check out this one.
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      05-26-2016, 10:18 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daimeow View Post
Hi Viffermike

You are absolutely right about the discount from the insulation of the trunk. But I use to have a cheap no-brand self-powered underseat woofer (the power is low and the sound quality is not that great) and I put it in the trunk of the E82 135i, the bass spectrum was still improved significantly.

Regarding the rattles, I didn't have any issues (not sure in the case of a true subwoofer).

Right now, I turned up treble a little and bass a lot, and shifted to the rear a little to balance for this zero bass surround system. It sounded better for pop music but might not fit other genre. I also had a chance to listen to an Alpine retrofit system with BxxSxxxd woofers. The more I listen, the more I am convinced that swapping the HK tweeters, mids and woofers might not be the key. All that is missing is "bass". That's why I think adding a subwoofer is the logical move.

I wouldn't mind to go for other options, particularly OEM-look upgrades, but at the moment they are disappointing.
Well, it depends on what you consider good bass response, which is subjective and dependent on your music preferences. If your preferred pop has a ton of bottom end (much of it does), you're going to absolutely have to power any aftermarket sub with an aftermarket amp. The OEM amp simply does not have the juice to articulate those bass frequencies, and the OEM amp's DSP cuts both bass and treble frequencies and boosts mids and low treble significantly.

I would seriously reconsider what you do first. You may find that an aftermarket amp(s) powering the entire system -- including those Bavsound Ghosts -- solves many of your bass response issues. You need to deliver clean power with minimal EQ first before you mess with upgrading the bass capabilities of a car.
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      05-26-2016, 10:31 AM   #11
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      05-26-2016, 10:43 AM   #12
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Wow, that's amazing!!! I never thought it's a DIY task. To be honest, I actually think it demands more than a mechanic's hand.

Definitely a must-try!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mdputnam View Post
Ahhh... a cheapskate, I see.
Well, if $165 is more inline with your budget for a custom enclosure, then check out this one.
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      05-26-2016, 11:01 AM   #13
daimeow
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You can't be more correct. I saw your other post about the need of juice to power a bass driver. That single HK amp is definitely underpowered for this purpose, not to mention all other channels it's powering simultaneously.

I guess the problem is not as simple as swapping a driver or adding a boom box....

But the convenience of a boom box is just too tempting... very successful marketing those big brands...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Viffermike View Post
Well, it depends on what you consider good bass response, which is subjective and dependent on your music preferences. If your preferred pop has a ton of bottom end (much of it does), you're going to absolutely have to power any aftermarket sub with an aftermarket amp. The OEM amp simply does not have the juice to articulate those bass frequencies, and the OEM amp's DSP cuts both bass and treble frequencies and boosts mids and low treble significantly.

I would seriously reconsider what you do first. You may find that an aftermarket amp(s) powering the entire system -- including those Bavsound Ghosts -- solves many of your bass response issues. You need to deliver clean power with minimal EQ first before you mess with upgrading the bass capabilities of a car.
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      05-26-2016, 11:07 AM   #14
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I owned a Bazooka 20 years ago. It wasn't that powerful. But I can't recall what size and what amp I used, and it's been 20 years. So don't take my words.

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Can anyone say Bazooka Tube....LOL
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      05-26-2016, 10:45 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdputnam
Quote:
Originally Posted by daimeow View Post
I just figured. But they cost way too much. $500 for just the enclosure. The subwoofer itself is $200 only. I guess that's the money one has to pay for custom-built, non-mass production products.
Ahhh... a cheapskate, I see.
Well, if $165 is more inline with your budget for a custom enclosure, then check out this one.
This reminds me of the sub enclosure I made for a little 8" sub. i molded it into the spare tire in the trunk. that was a fun project.
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