[staticcornflake]

Hi Everyone,

Long time lurker and just bought my beautiful '16 228i in red - the dealer of course tried to push the paint/interior protection for like $3,500 which seems crazy high for something that, according to them, would be a 20 minute application.

The paint is in great shape with minimal swirls, 18k miles but 4 years old. It'll be my DD and be out in the SoCal sun during the day, wondering if you have any recos for protection (do I need a ceramic?) or just get it waxed and keep it clean....I searched old threads but there seem to be differing opinions and nothing too recent.

Thanks!

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by staticcornflake

the dealer of course tried to push the paint/interior protection for like $3,500 which seems crazy high for something that, according to them, would be a 20 minute application.

First, congratulations on your new purchase - be sure to post some photos so we can see it!

So many of them have no shame, do they - there's no doubt they'd smilingly offer it for $13,500 if they thought you'd give it up.

Once I have the funds together, I'm going for whatever level of paint correction is required to remove the swirls. That will be followed by a wrap with paint protection film of the full front-end along with the mirrors, rocker panels, and the lower rear of the car. I'll likely use a ceramic-type product on the non-filmed panels. I want to get it to where I only have to run it through a touchless car wash every once in a while. The car is garaged with a car cover except for occasional use.

I still have to talk to the outfit that's going to do the work, though. If they advise differently, I may change my plans. It's a lot of money, and I want to make sure the work results in low maintenance required by me during the time I own the car.

[harma24]

For comparison, our dealer just offered that for my wife's car for $1,000 and offered to drop it to $780 or something like that after we declined it.

[staticcornflake]

Originally Posted by harma24

For comparison, our dealer just offered that for my wife's car for $1,000 and offered to drop it to $780 or something like that after we declined it.

Thanks - I will give them a call back and see if they want to drop it down more. I also was going to see if I can get them down on the wheel+tire insurance so worth a try.

[staticcornflake]

Originally Posted by dradernh

First, congratulations on your new purchase - be sure to post some photos so we can see it!

Thank you! Quick and dirty shot but I can't stop smiling

[CP911]

Originally Posted by dradernh

First, congratulations on your new purchase - be sure to post some photos so we can see it!

So many of them have no shame, do they - there's no doubt they'd smilingly offer it for $13,500 if they thought you'd give it up.

Once I have the funds together, I'm going for whatever level of paint correction is required to remove the swirls. That will be followed by a wrap with paint protection film of the full front-end along with the mirrors, rocker panels, and the lower rear of the car. I'll likely use a ceramic-type product on the non-filmed panels. I want to get it to where I only have to run it through a touchless car wash every once in a while. The car is garaged with a car cover except for occasional use.

I still have to talk to the outfit that's going to do the work, though. If they advise differently, I may change my plans. It's a lot of money, and I want to make sure the work results in low maintenance required by me during the time I own the car.

Swirl removal will just require someone who knows how to do a good machine polish. You can actually ceramic coat over the PPF and will likely need to if your goal is minimal maintenance, but I don't think it will ever be possible to get by with only touchless washes. Sure is wishful thinking though! I have PPF on the front end of my car and bugs stick to it just the same as paint. Even with a coat of Sonax carnauba paste wax...still need to spot treat each lingering bug splat, rubber mark (from track use), tar splatter, etc. with a microfiber after the car has been washed and dried.

I did buy a Sonax ceramic coating kit for $60 off Amazon and will be applying that myself to the panels of my vehicles as I can find the time to detail clean each panel to perfection before applying the ceramic coating. The good thing about ceramic coatings is that it lasts so long that you really don't need to do an entire car all at once. You can take your time and do a different panel or two after each regular car wash. This way you don't have to bury yourself in the garage for like 2 days straight trying to detail prep the entire car and coating the whole thing in one shot. I don't know about you, but I have places to be every day, and it would be utterly impossible for me to wash, detail, and ceramic coat a full car in less than a day. I am just too detail-oriented, and the level of effort required to fully and properly detail a car to perfection before applying a semi-permanent ceramic coating is, well, very intense and quite exhausting if I'm being honest. This is why you pay a lot for professionally applied ceramic coatings! The product itself is inexpensive and super easy to apply. It's the labor involved, especially if we're talking paint correction and polishing beforehand. Talking $$$ thousands...

Anyway, I am looking forward to the results of the Sonax ceramic product. I still don't anticipate it being anywhere near "maintenance free" though. I see it more as "worry free" from the perspective that I'll know my paint is sealed very well and for a long time to keep it less susceptible to clear coat blemishes from bug strikes and bird droppings in the future.

Oh yeah, you can wax over the ceramic coating for even greater paint protection, although it might be overkill! Also, each company offering a ceramic coating typically sells a maintenance product as well that you apply periodically (like every 6 months) to maintain the ceramic coating and extend its life. Sonax has their Polymer-Netshield product, which is a wax-free hybrid sealer that can supposedly keep the underlying ceramic coating effective for up to 3 years. Not bad at all...

[DistantTea]

They offered me the paint and leather protection package so frick'n cheap I actually bought it. I think in total I paid $600 for five years of whatever it is they actually sold me. Only in hindsight did I wonder what the hell I bought because it wasn't like they gave me a brochure or instructions on how to claim on it. My black paint has all sorts of messes on it too, light blotches and such. They said it covers scratches and minor dents but last person I talked to said they lied to me so... whatever. I'll make a list of what I want fixed when it goes in for service soon and after they fix whatever they feel like I'm covered to have fixed I'll get it ceramic coated.

[RoundelM3]

I use a combination of Griot's polishing products (orbital buffer, pads, polishes) and Tech Shine, a light ceramic coating that is easily applied. Once the car is clean and clayed/polished, it's applied to paint, glass, wheels, etc. while the car is wet, then rinsed off and dried with a towel or other drying cloth.

While the Tech Shine is not as durable as a $750 detailing-shop job that takes 2 days or so, it can be applied after washing the car until you have 3-4 coats, which should then last quite a while.

[Maynard]

I've been using the Griots polymer wax (at least 1x yearly, 2x if I get time) and spray detail wax at every wash. This hits the sweet spot for being within my free time range and giving good results; there are many newer 'ceramic' polymer waxes out there, so probably something a bit tougher than Griots if you look around. If swirls bother you, avoid all car washes and use the 2-bucket technique. If you go for a clear coat film, be mindful that the seams will start to show later, so doing half a hood/panel will look pretty bad (at least to my OCD eye they do). Film also just protects the underlying paint, it gets just as dirty and looks just as cruddy when it does. Also, I would be very cautious about machine buffing or clay barring - these are both mechanical abrasion, and will thin paint while potentially adding more problems (remember that the guy saying 'easy as pie, you can't burn your paint' is selling the hardware, not insuring your clearcoat). If you want to learn how and do your own, practice on a beater car first; probably better to pay a pro to do it if you only plan on a single cleanup. Personally I think both power buffing and clay barring are waaaay overdone, but some swear by it - can't blame them really, if I'd just bought a $300 buffer I'd want to use it on everything in sight too.

[staticcornflake]

In case anyone is interested, I called another dealer here in LA, and they offered the same thing (Perma Plate) for $399. So may go for that just to start out on the right foot!

[John in VA]

I'd have a good local detailer do a paint correction as needed & coat it with a sealant vs. spending on that.

[staticcornflake]

Originally Posted by John in VA

I'd have a good local detailer do a paint correction as needed & coat it with a sealant vs. spending on that.

Will def look into that - if anyone has somebody in the LA area, feel free to let me know. I've just been searching around as well.

[staticcornflake]

Originally Posted by John in VA

I'd have a good local detailer do a paint correction as needed & coat it with a sealant vs. spending on that.

Hi! Just resurfacing this, wanted to see if anyone has any good detailer reco's in the LA area (Westside but can travel). I'd be willing to spend the same $399 essentially, only thing the dealer gets you is a 5 year warranty on spot repairs for paint I believe.

[John in VA]

Originally Posted by staticcornflake

Hi! Just resurfacing this, wanted to see if anyone has any good detailer reco's in the LA area (Westside but can travel).

You might try asking on or looking through the CA regional section. Good luck!
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