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      07-21-2017, 07:51 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skycaptain View Post
Do the ferodo 2500 work with the brake pad sensors? If not, is it an issue to disconnect the pad sensors and not throw warning lights?
Don't know about Ferodo's but I just tied up the sensors when I put PFC 08s on for track use and there were no warning lights.
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      08-14-2017, 10:09 PM   #90
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Can we make this a sticky Mods?
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      08-15-2017, 06:24 AM   #91
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Fitted some Pagid RS29's to my M140 last week. They're M3/4 fitment ones but as mentioned on here front and rears are exactly the same fitment.

The pad sensor also fitted into them so no worries there.

First impressions are the pedal is firmer and they definitely stop better than standard. A bit of squeal but only sometimes and it adds to the character.

I have Castrol SRF fluid to go in then a track day in a few weeks. Looking forward to trying them out!
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      08-15-2017, 03:25 PM   #92
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SRF is way overkill. Good luck on track!
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      08-15-2017, 07:26 PM   #93
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I use the Valvoline DOT4 synthetic at the local parts store I can always find it lol. Flushed and bled before any track days

What's the minimum rotor spec's for replacement ? I'm developing a nice lip on the front rotors, those EBC yellows have done their job well.
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      08-15-2017, 09:24 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zipphreak View Post
I use the Valvoline DOT4 synthetic at the local parts store I can always find it lol. Flushed and bled before any track days

What's the minimum rotor spec's for replacement ? I'm developing a nice lip on the front rotors, those EBC yellows have done their job well.
34116792223
Brake rotor, light blue, ventilated
340X30

min.th. = 28,4 mm


34206797605
Brake rotor, light blue, ventilated
345X24

min.th. = 22,4 mm
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      11-26-2017, 09:04 PM   #95
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      02-04-2018, 01:29 PM   #96
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bump to keep on 1st page.
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      02-05-2018, 01:27 PM   #97
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Does anyone have any experience with upgrading the pads and rotors for the standard brakes? I'm going to measure my rotors and see if they need to be replaced. I'm upgrading the pads to the cool carbon pads for both ends of the car. lines and better fluid as well. I am planning to go to a couple of HPDE's this year. I'm on the Continental Extreme Contact sports.
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      02-08-2018, 01:44 PM   #98
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Originally Posted by SteveInfante View Post
Does anyone have any experience with upgrading the pads and rotors for the standard brakes? I'm going to measure my rotors and see if they need to be replaced. I'm upgrading the pads to the cool carbon pads for both ends of the car. lines and better fluid as well. I am planning to go to a couple of HPDE's this year. I'm on the Continental Extreme Contact sports.
For what it's worth, I did not like Cool Carbon pads on my 996TT and do not recommend them. Pedal did not have good feel and always had issues with brake judder coming and going. Used new pads and rotors at the time of installation. YMMV, however.
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      02-08-2018, 05:15 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r0nd3L View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveInfante View Post
Does anyone have any experience with upgrading the pads and rotors for the standard brakes? I'm going to measure my rotors and see if they need to be replaced. I'm upgrading the pads to the cool carbon pads for both ends of the car. lines and better fluid as well. I am planning to go to a couple of HPDE's this year. I'm on the Continental Extreme Contact sports.
For what it's worth, I did not like Cool Carbon pads on my 996TT and do not recommend them. Pedal did not have good feel and always had issues with brake judder coming and going. Used new pads and rotors at the time of installation. YMMV, however.
Thanks for the input and response.
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      02-23-2018, 10:48 PM   #100
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Hi folks,

I will need to replace my brake pads + rotors in a couple of months, and wanted to order the parts early.

After doing some research, I found out that Power Stop seems to be a reliable option. It is also the only brand available through Amazon Canada.

Are these any good? Has anyone ever tried them?
Power Stop:
https://www.amazon.ca/Power-Stop-Z23...1---1-0&sr=1-2
https://www.amazon.ca/Power-Stop-Z23...1---1-0&sr=1-3

What amazes me is that it's almost half of the price of the Brembo pads available at a big store:

Brembo:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/br...p.1161343.html
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/br...p.1161364.html

Are the Brembo ones twice as good in order to justify the price difference?
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      03-03-2018, 05:02 PM   #101
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EBC Yellowstuff and Sensors? Break-in?

For those of you with the EBC Yellowstuff, can you confirm that they are direct OEM equivalent drop-in replacements? No issues with the stock pad sensors, or anything else? Nothing different from OEM from a fitment perspective? (I have a 2014 RWD M235, if that makes a difference.)

Also, reading through the 'bedding-in' page at EBC:
https://ebcbrakes.com/articles/bedding-in/
This seems like a really long and complicated procedure. And the opposite of the advice I've always seen for regular pads, which is to do the high speed bedding as soon as possible and avoid lots of light application driving to start.

Are all high-performance pads like this? What about pure race pads, where you obviously aren't going to drive them slow for hundreds of miles?

Hope I don't start a 'religious' argument on how to bed pads. I'm new to high perf pads, and a lot of this seems contradictory to me.
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      03-03-2018, 08:08 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggggbmw View Post
For those of you with the EBC Yellowstuff, can you confirm that they are direct OEM equivalent drop-in replacements? No issues with the stock pad sensors, or anything else? Nothing different from OEM from a fitment perspective? (I have a 2014 RWD M235, if that makes a difference.)

Also, reading through the 'bedding-in' page at EBC:
https://ebcbrakes.com/articles/bedding-in/
This seems like a really long and complicated procedure. And the opposite of the advice I've always seen for regular pads, which is to do the high speed bedding as soon as possible and avoid lots of light application driving to start.

Are all high-performance pads like this? What about pure race pads, where you obviously aren't going to drive them slow for hundreds of miles?

Hope I don't start a 'religious' argument on how to bed pads. I'm new to high perf pads, and a lot of this seems contradictory to me.
Yes, they are a direct replacement. No fitting issues... they are exactly same shape as stocks... no issues with the sensors either...
But be super careful for the first few miles as the pads will be extremely touchy because of the red coating, apply brakes very lightly as they will be uber sensitive...

The pads have a red coating that helps bedding... they recommend the light use so that all the pad makes full contact against the rotor before bedding but you could still bed them in at the track if you can't do the slow bedding...

Basically you want to bed once the whole pad is touching the rotor, else it will create a hot band on only a section of the rotor

"In Street use situations …
Bedding in when the red EBC surface coating (marked on the pads as Brake In) is applied.
Best procedure is to drive gently avoiding harsh braking unless in an emergency for first 100 miles. In the second 100 miles (up to 200) you can use gently increasing brake pressures when using the brakes.
Only after 200 miles urban driving (not 200 miles on a freeway where brakes are almost unused) should you attempt to apply heavy load and heat to the brakes. To do this final bedding on a QUIET ROAD in safe traffic apply the brakes and slow from 60 to 10 MPH five times in a row. Then drive slowly for a few minutes if safe to do so to allow the brakes to cool. Try to avoid coming to a rest whilst the brakes are heated.

A smell may be noticed from the warm brakes, this is normal. Repeat this procedure a second time after the brakes have TOTALLY cooled down. EBC pads get better with miles. Even after this bed in procedure it can take up to 1500 miles before the pads are at their best. In the meantime the pads will be good and safe but true potential not realised. EBC makes performance pads that last, they do not bed in within 5 minutes driving. Noises will be more likely during the first 1000-1500 miles use whilst this chemical bedding takes place.

NEVER attempt to sand or scotchbrite brake pads to assist it bedding in or noise reduction,this will only make things worse by taking the pads “Off-Flat” and require hundreds of miles driving to seat them again during which time the brakes will feel very dull. The only way to seat pads is against the rotor they will be used on and by following our bedding recommendation.

Bedding in for trackday or race use …
We remind you there is NO WARRANTY on any EBC product for race use due to the very varying conditions that can be seen. However, care bedding pads in and monitoring wear will get the best from our products.

Most EBC pads including Yellow range pads now have the brake in coating. If possible and using a street based car, fit the pads before the race use and bed in as above for street use. Try to get 200-300 miles urban driving on the pads before racing them. If this is NOT possible and you fit at the track bed like this.

Drive two laps steadily applying the brakes every few seconds and then coast for a full lap without any unnecessary braking to allow pads and rotors to cool down. Drive a third lap applying the brakes slightly harder each time and again drive a cooldown lap. Do NOT pull up and park the car with the brakes red hot, try to let them cool as much as possible before coming to a rest. It is also important to understand that the pads must be geometrically matched to the rotor (flat and parallel) before they will bed in chemically. If you do the above bed in and get violent fade first use you MUST repeat the bedding procedure. We get lots of new customers calling in saying my brakes have faded and when they send a digital the pad is only touching on 70-80% of its surface area. Fade early in a pads life is almost a good thing. It is called GREEN fade and will disappear so if you suffer Green fade (you will notice this by smell), you are on the right path and this is not a negative. If you are getting fade after 20 laps and the pads are part worn, then something else needs looking into such as material choice, bleeding of the system, driving style etc …"
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      03-04-2018, 12:54 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggggbmw View Post
Also, reading through the 'bedding-in' page at EBC:
https://ebcbrakes.com/articles/bedding-in/
This seems like a really long and complicated procedure. And the opposite of the advice I've always seen for regular pads, which is to do the high speed bedding as soon as possible and avoid lots of light application driving to start.
EBC recommends light use at first due to the "brake in coating" on them. This coating is SUPER grabby. They don't want you to bed the brakes till this coating is all worn off, then it's pretty much a standard bedding procedure.
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      03-04-2018, 12:04 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pikcachu View Post
Basically you want to bed once the whole pad is touching the rotor, else it will create a hot band on only a section of the rotor
Thanks Pikcachu for the extended response. Looks like that's from elsewhere on the EBC site, and has more detail than the link I posted. The 'full contact' before bedding part makes sense, and explains a lot.

So, how do you know for sure that the pad is completely touching all of the rotor before doing the bedding runs? I'll be putting these on the existing rotors, which are already shiny/worn across their face. Does the 'brake in' red coating mark the rotors in some way? I suppose I could also just look for slight surface rust, but the BMW rotors don't rust anywhere near as much as other rotors I've had, making it hard to see.
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      03-04-2018, 03:27 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggggbmw View Post
Thanks Pikcachu for the extended response. Looks like that's from elsewhere on the EBC site, and has more detail than the link I posted. The 'full contact' before bedding part makes sense, and explains a lot.

So, how do you know for sure that the pad is completely touching all of the rotor before doing the bedding runs? I'll be putting these on the existing rotors, which are already shiny/worn across their face. Does the 'brake in' red coating mark the rotors in some way? I suppose I could also just look for slight surface rust, but the BMW rotors don't rust anywhere near as much as other rotors I've had, making it hard to see.
Yes, you will notice a different color on the rotor... at first you will see a band on the outer part of the rotor which will get bigger towards the center of the rotor as miles go by and eventually will cover the whole surface of the pad against the rotor...
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      03-06-2018, 12:46 PM   #106
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Hi! I need the numbers for the Stoptech Sport front and rear for my M240i.
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      03-06-2018, 05:25 PM   #107
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Hi! I need the numbers for the Stoptech Sport front and rear for my M240i.
Have you looked at the first post?
The sheet has all part numbers we have researched.
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      03-06-2018, 06:41 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by bryan_f22 View Post
Have you looked at the first post?
The sheet has all part numbers we have researched.
Now Im leaving
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      04-04-2018, 05:43 PM   #109
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Just got my stuff from Rock Auto. Cheapest place that I have found.

Front StopTech stainless lines. 950.34032
Rear StopTech stainless lines 950.34531
Front StopTech Sport pads. 309.15610
Rear StopTech Sport pads. 309.16130

The pads come with new clips and boots which I didn't know and ordered two more sets of boots on accident.

New sensors came in too. I also got a pressure bleeder and fluid coming from ECS.
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      04-06-2018, 01:43 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveInfante View Post
Just got my stuff from Rock Auto. Cheapest place that I have found.

Front StopTech stainless lines. 950.34032
Rear StopTech stainless lines 950.34531
Front StopTech Sport pads. 309.15610
Rear StopTech Sport pads. 309.16130

The pads come with new clips and boots which I didn't know and ordered two more sets of boots on accident.

New sensors came in too. I also got a pressure bleeder and fluid coming from ECS.

Let us know how the pads are, short and long term.
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